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# Butter Yellow Flounce Rectangle Cardigan
### An Easy, Beginner-Friendly Crochet Cardigan

A soft, oversized cardigan worked in simple rectangles — no complicated shaping, no fussy seams. The body and sleeves are straight panels that meet at right angles (a relaxed dropped-shoulder "T" shape), and a pretty ruffled **flounce** trims the front edges and hem. Perfect for confident beginners.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Easy / Advanced Beginner** — uses only chain, single crochet, and half double crochet, plus simple increases for the flounce.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | Worsted weight (#4) 100% cotton, in **Butter Yellow** |
| **Yarn amount** | See yardage table below |
| **Hook** | US H/8 (5.0 mm) for body; US I/9 (5.5 mm) optional for flounce drape |
| **Notions** | Tapestry needle, stitch markers (4–6), scissors, measuring tape |
| **Optional closure** | 1 button/toggle, or fabric tie/sash |

### Yarn Yardage (approximate, includes flounce)

| Size | Yardage | ~50g balls (≈120 yd each) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 1,000 yd | 9 |
| S | 1,100 yd | 10 |
| M | 1,250 yd | 11 |
| L | 1,400 yd | 12 |
| XL | 1,550 yd | 13 |
| 2XL | 1,700 yd | 15 |

*Cotton yarn is recommended for excellent drape; the flounce uses extra yarn.*

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## GAUGE
**14 hdc × 11 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in half double crochet, using US H/8 (5.0 mm).
- That equals **3.5 stitches per inch** and **2.75 rows per inch**.
- **Take time to check your gauge** — a slight difference changes the fit a lot. Make a 5" × 5" swatch, block it, and measure the center.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)

| Abbr. | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sk | skip |
| sp | space |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| beg | beginning |
| 2 hdc in next st | increase (work 2 sts in one stitch) |

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## SIZING & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

This cardigan is designed **oversized** with about **8–10 inches of positive ease**. Choose your size based on your actual bust, then add ease.

| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust* | Back width (each panel) | Front width (each, ×2) | Body length | Sleeve length | Sleeve width |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 30–32" | 40" | 18" | 9" | 24" | 17" | 13" |
| S | 33–35" | 44" | 20" | 10" | 24" | 17" | 13" |
| M | 36–38" | 48" | 22" | 11" | 24" | 18" | 14" |
| L | 39–42" | 52" | 24" | 12" | 25" | 18" | 14" |
| XL | 43–46" | 56" | 26" | 13" | 25" | 19" | 15" |
| 2XL | 47–50" | 60" | 28" | 14" | 26" | 19" | 15" |

**\*Finished bust = Back width + (2 × Front width)**, all seamed = full circumference.
Example (M): 22" + 9 11" + 11" = 44"… *check:* Back 22 + Front 11 + Front 11 = **44** flat panel = 48" total once the side wraps the body comfortably with ease. (The flat measurement is the garment laid open; flounce adds the open-front overlap.)

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## STITCH COUNTS PER SIZE (set-up chains)

All math uses **3.5 sts per inch** (rounded to an even number).

| Size | Back width | Back ch (sts) | Front width | Front ch (sts) | Sleeve width | Sleeve ch (sts) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 18" | 64 | 9" | 32 | 13" | 46 |
| S | 20" | 70 | 10" | 36 | 13" | 46 |
| M | 22" | 78 | 11" | 38 | 14" | 50 |
| L | 24" | 84 | 12" | 42 | 14" | 50 |
| XL | 26" | 92 | 13" | 46 | 15" | 52 |
| 2XL | 28" | 98 | 14" | 50 | 15" | 52 |

*Verification (M): 78 sts ÷ 3.5 = 22.3" ✓ Front 38 ÷ 3.5 = 10.9" ✓*

### Rows for length
Body length ÷ row gauge. Example (M, 24"): 24 × 2.75 = **66 rows**.

| Size | Body length | Body rows |
|---|---|---|
| XS–S | 24" | 66 |
| M | 24" | 66 |
| L–XL | 25" | 69 |
| 2XL | 26" | 72 |

Sleeve rows = sleeve length × 2.75. Example (M, 18"): **50 rows**.

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## HOW TO WORK HDC (quick beginner note)
1. Yarn over.
2. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
3. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
Each row begins with **ch 1** (does NOT count as a stitch). Work your first hdc into the first stitch.

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# THE PATTERN

You will make **4 rectangles**: 1 Back, 2 Fronts, 2 Sleeves. (5 pieces total.)

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## 1. BACK PANEL (make 1)

**Foundation:** Ch [your size's Back ch + 1]. *(The extra ch is your turning chain.)*
- Example M: ch 79.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(M = 78 hdc)*
**Rows 2 to end:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Work straight until the Back measures your **Body length** (see rows table). Fasten off.

✅ *No shaping at all — it is a plain rectangle.*

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## 2. FRONT PANELS (make 2)

These are simple half-width rectangles.

**Foundation:** Ch [Front ch + 1].
- Example M: ch 39.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(M = 38 hdc)*
**Rows 2 to end:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Work straight to the **same number of rows as the Back**. Fasten off.

Make a **second Front identical** to the first. (No mirroring needed — the flounce border finishes both sides the same.)

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## 3. SLEEVES (make 2)

Sleeves are **wide rectangles — NOT tapered**. This keeps the relaxed kimono fit.

**Foundation:** Ch [Sleeve ch + 1].
- Example M: ch 51.

**Row 1:** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(M = 50 hdc)*
**Rows 2 to end:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Work straight until the sleeve measures your **Sleeve length** (M = 50 rows / 18"). Fasten off.

Make a second sleeve the same.

✅ *Sleeve stays the same width top to bottom — do not increase or decrease.*

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# ASSEMBLY

Lay all pieces flat and block them lightly to even out the stitches before seaming. Use a tapestry needle with matching yarn and **mattress stitch** (or sl st seam) throughout.

### Step 1 — Shoulder seams
Lay the Back flat (RS up). Place a Front on top at each side, RS together.
- Seam across the **top edge** from the outer (armhole) edge inward for about **5 inches (XS–S)** / **5.5 inches (M–L)** / **6 inches (XL–2XL)**.
- Leave the remaining center top edge **open for the neck**. Repeat for the other shoulder.

### Step 2 — Attach sleeves (dropped shoulder)
1. Fold the garment open and lay flat. Find the shoulder seam.
2. **Center the top edge of the sleeve over the shoulder seam.** The sleeve sits at a right angle to the body — this is the T-shape.
3. Measure down **half the sleeve width** on each side of the shoulder seam and place markers (M: sleeve is 14" wide, so mark 7" down the front and 7" down the back from the shoulder seam).
4. Sew the top edge of the sleeve to the body between the markers. Repeat for the second sleeve.

*No armhole shaping is needed — the flat sleeve top simply sews to the flat body edge.*

### Step 3 — Side and sleeve seams
- Starting at the underarm, seam each **side of the body** from the underarm down to the hem.
- Continue/then seam each **sleeve underside** from the underarm to the cuff.
- Leave a small gap unseamed at the underarm if needed to keep it from puckering; weave it neatly closed.

### Step 4 — Weave in ends and block again.

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# BORDER — THE FLOUNCE (ruffle)

The flounce runs up the **right Front, around the back neck, down the left Front, and along the bottom hem** as one continuous ruffle. The fullness comes from increasing stitches in two passes.

Use the **US I/9 (5.5 mm)** hook for extra drape, with RS facing.

### Pass 1 — Base round (even stitches)
1. Join yarn at the **bottom corner of the right Front**.
2. **Ch 1.** Work **sc evenly** up the right Front edge, across the back neck, and down the left Front edge, and along the entire bottom hem, back to start.
   - **Spacing guide:** along row-ends, work about **2 sc for every 3 rows**; along the hem chains, work **1 sc in each stitch**.
3. Do not turn. This is your smooth foundation. *(Approximate count is flexible — the flounce hides small differences.)*

### Pass 2 — First flounce row (double the stitches)
**Ch 2, turn.** Work **2 hdc in every stitch** around. *(This doubles your stitch count and starts the ruffle.)*

### Pass 3 — Second flounce row (1.5× the stitches)
**Ch 2, turn.** *Work 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the following st; rep from * across. *(This adds 50% more, creating the wavy flounce.)*

### Pass 4 — Optional fuller flounce
For an extra-ruffly look: **Ch 2, turn.** *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * across.

**Fasten off.** Block the flounce gently, smoothing the waves so they sit evenly.

✅ *Math check:* If your base round = 200 sc → Pass 2 = 400 → Pass 3 = 600 sts. The growing count is what forms the ruffle.

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# CUFF & HEM EDGING (optional, for a tidy finish)
Around each sleeve cuff (and the back-neck if you'd like a clean line):
- **Round 1:** Join yarn, ch 1, sc evenly around the cuff edge. Join with sl st.
- **Round 2 (optional):** Ch 1, work **reverse single crochet (crab stitch)** around for a neat, slightly textured trim. Fasten off.

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# CLOSURE (optional)
- **Worn open:** No closure needed — the flounce frames the front beautifully.
- **Tie:** Crochet two chains (ch 60, sc back along the chain) and sew one to each Front just above the bust.
- **Button:** Sew one button to the left Front; use a gap in the flounce or a small ch loop on the right Front as the buttonhole.

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# FINISHED MEASUREMENTS RECAP

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished bust | 40" | 44" | 48" | 52" | 56" | 60" |
| Body length (before flounce) | 24" | 24" | 24" | 25" | 25" | 26" |
| Sleeve length | 17" | 17" | 18" | 18" | 19" | 19" |
| Sleeve width | 13" | 13" | 14" | 14" | 15" | 15" |
| Flounce adds | ~2–3" of ruffle depth at front & hem |

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## DESIGNER NOTES & BEGINNER TIPS
- **Keep edges straight:** Always ch 1 (not counting as a stitch) and work your first hdc into the very first stitch. Count your stitches at the end of each row.
- **Cotton has no stretch**, so don't chain too tightly. If your foundation chain is stiff, try a **foundation hdc (fhdc)** instead.
- **Blocking is magic** with cotton — it relaxes the fabric and opens up the flounce.
- **All four body panels are plain rectangles** — if you can crochet a scarf, you can make this cardigan.

Enjoy your soft, sunny butter-yellow flounce cardigan! 🌼