purlJam

# Airy Eyelet Kimono Cardigan
### A Beginner-Friendly Mesh / Filet Cardigan

A relaxed, open-front kimono cardigan worked in a simple two-stitch mesh (dc, ch-1) repeat. Built from five flat rectangles with no armhole or sleeve shaping, it's a perfect first garment. The open eyelet fabric is light, breezy, and very forgiving on gauge.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Beginner** — if you can chain, double crochet, and seam straight edges, you can make this.

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## SIZES
Written for **S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X)**. Instructions for larger sizes follow in parentheses. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

### Finished Measurements (oversized fit, 8–12 in positive ease)
| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bust circumference (buttoned closed) | 44 in (112 cm) | 52 in (132 cm) | 60 in (152 cm) |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 26 in (66 cm) | 27 in (69 cm) | 28 in (71 cm) |
| Sleeve length | 18 in (46 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| Sleeve width (flat) | 18 in (46 cm) | 19 in (48 cm) | 20 in (51 cm) |

*Note: Because this is a kimono, bust is generous. Choose your size by desired length and overall ease rather than exact bust.*

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (#4), smooth cotton, cotton blend, or bamboo blend for best drape. Approximately:
  - S/M: 1100 yds (1006 m)
  - L/XL: 1350 yds (1235 m)
  - 2X/3X: 1600 yds (1463 m)
- **Hooks:**
  - US H/8 (5 mm) — main body
  - US 7 (4.5 mm) — borders
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- 8–10 stitch markers
- Optional: 1 button/toggle (1–1.5 in) OR fabric ties/sash for closure

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## GAUGE
In mesh pattern, on US H/8 (5 mm) hook, **after blocking**:
- **14 sts (7 dc + 7 ch-1 spaces) = 4 in (10 cm)** → 3.5 sts per inch
- **8 rows = 4 in (10 cm)** → 2 rows per inch

**Gauge is critical for fit even in a forgiving garment — please make a swatch and block it.**

### Gauge Swatch
Ch 23. Work the Mesh Pattern (below) for 16 rows. Block, then measure the center 4 in.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (US terms)
- **ch** = chain
- **dc** = double crochet
- **sc** = single crochet
- **sp** = space
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **rev sc** = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- **rep** = repeat
- **RS / WS** = right side / wrong side

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## MESH PATTERN (the only stitch pattern you need)
Worked over an **odd number of starting chains**.

**Foundation Row (RS):** Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first dc), *ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end. Turn.

**Row 1:** Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip first dc, dc in next dc, *ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; rep from * across, placing last dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Turn.

**Repeat Row 1** for the mesh pattern. Each dc sits over the previous dc; each ch-1 sits over the previous ch-1 sp, creating an even grid of eyelets.

> **Beginner Tip:** Count your dc posts at the end of each row. The number must stay the same every row.

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## STITCH COUNT REFERENCE
| Piece | Foundation ch | dc per row | Width |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 79 (87, 95) | 39 (43, 47) | 22 (24.5, 27) in |
| Front (×2) | 39 (43, 47) | 19 (21, 23) | 11 (12, 13) in |
| Sleeve (×2) | 65 (69, 73) | 32 (34, 36) | 18 (19, 20) in |

*Math check (S/M Back): 39 dc ÷ 3.5 sts/in = 11.1 in of dc + 38 sp counted in gauge → full 79 sts ÷ 3.5 = 22.6 in ≈ 22 in. ✓*

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK (make 1)
With US H/8 (5 mm), ch **79 (87, 95)**.

**Foundation Row (RS):** Work Mesh Pattern foundation row → **39 (43, 47) dc**.

Work **Row 1 of Mesh Pattern** until piece measures **26 (27, 28) in** from beginning, ending after a WS row. This is approximately **52 (54, 56) rows** total including foundation.

*Math check: 52 rows × 0.5 in/row = 26 in. ✓*

Fasten off. Set aside.

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### LEFT FRONT (make 1)
With US H/8 (5 mm), ch **39 (43, 47)**.

**Foundation Row (RS):** Work Mesh Pattern foundation row → **19 (21, 23) dc**.

Work Row 1 of Mesh Pattern until piece measures the **same number of rows as the Back** (26/27/28 in). Fasten off.

> The front is a plain rectangle — the open mesh edge becomes the front opening; no neckline shaping is needed for this relaxed style.

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### RIGHT FRONT (make 1)
Work exactly as Left Front. Fasten off.

*(Because the fabric is symmetrical and reversible, the two fronts are identical.)*

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### SLEEVES (make 2) — straight rectangles, NO tapering
With US H/8 (5 mm), ch **65 (69, 73)**.

**Foundation Row (RS):** Work Mesh Pattern foundation row → **32 (34, 36) dc**.

Work Row 1 of Mesh Pattern until sleeve measures **18 in (46 cm)** from beginning, ending after a WS row — about **36 rows** including foundation. Fasten off.

*Math check: 36 rows × 0.5 in/row = 18 in. ✓ Width 65 sts ÷ 3.5 = 18.6 in ≈ 18 in. ✓*

> **Kimono rule:** Do NOT increase or decrease — the sleeve is the same width top to bottom.

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## ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces flat to the measurements in the chart before seaming. This opens the eyelets and makes seaming much easier.

### 1. Shoulder Seams (straight horizontal seams)
Lay the Back flat (RS up). Place each Front on top (RS down), aligning top edges.
- Seam each shoulder from the outer (armhole) edge inward for **5 (5.5, 6) in**, using mattress stitch or whip stitch.
- Leave the **center 12 (13.5, 15) in** of the Back top edge open — this forms the neck opening.

*Math check (S/M): two shoulders at 5 in = 10 in + 12 in neck = 22 in = Back width. ✓*

### 2. Attach Sleeves (perpendicular — dropped shoulder)
Lay the joined piece flat and find the shoulder seam. Measure **9 (9.5, 10) in** down from the shoulder seam along each side edge of the body, on both Front and Back, and mark.
- Center the top edge of one Sleeve at the shoulder seam.
- Sew the sleeve top edge to the body between the markers (the sleeve attaches at a right angle, T-shape). Repeat for the second sleeve.

*Math check: sleeve width 18 in = 9 in onto Front + 9 in onto Back. ✓*

### 3. Side & Sleeve Seams (one continuous seam each side)
Fold the garment at the shoulders so Fronts and Back are RS together.
- Starting at the sleeve cuff, seam the underside of the sleeve, then continue down the body side from underarm to hem.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Leave both **front edges and the lower hem open** (it's an open-front cardigan).

### 4. Border / Edging
With US 7 (4.5 mm) and RS facing, join yarn at the bottom corner of the Right Front.
- **Round 1 (sc):** Work an even row of sc up the Right Front, around the back neck, down the Left Front, and across the bottom hem. Work approximately 3 sc per 2 rows along vertical edges and 1 sc per st along horizontal edges; place 3 sc in each outer corner. Join with a slip st.
- **Round 2 (rev sc):** Ch 1, work reverse single crochet (crab stitch) in each st around for a neat, slightly raised edge. Join and fasten off.

### 5. Sleeve Cuffs (optional)
With US 7 (4.5 mm), join at sleeve underarm seam and work 1 round of sc evenly around the cuff, then 1 round of rev sc. Repeat on second sleeve. This firms up the open mesh edge.

### 6. Closure (choose one)
- **Worn open:** No closure needed — the eyelet border is the finish.
- **Single button:** Sew a button to the inside of the Left Front at bust level; an eyelet in the mesh of the Right Front acts as the buttonhole.
- **Ties:** Make two chains 18 in long, sc back along each, and sew one to the inside edge of each Front at bust level to tie closed.
- **Sash:** Ch a length 60–70 in long, work 3 rows of sc, and wear belted.

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## FINISHING & BLOCKING
1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Wet-block or steam-block the finished cardigan, gently opening each eyelet and squaring the edges.
3. Lay flat to dry. Blocking is what gives this mesh its lovely drape — don't skip it.

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## DESIGNER NOTES
- **Why mesh works here:** The open (dc, ch-1) grid is light and breezy, ideal as a layering cardigan. Worsted yarn keeps the eyelets defined without being flimsy.
- **Lengthening/shortening:** Add or remove rows in multiples of 2 on the Back and both Fronts equally (each pattern row = 0.5 in).
- **Sleeve length options:** For 3/4 sleeves work to 14 in; for short sleeves work to 8 in — keep the width unchanged (no tapering).
- **Stay relaxed:** This is a boxy kimono — resist adding waist or armhole shaping, which would fight the drape.

Enjoy your airy eyelet kimono cardigan!