purlJam

# Filet Mesh Open-Front Kimono Cardigan

A breezy, boxy cardigan worked in simple **filet mesh** (alternating double crochet and chain-1 spaces). Built T-shape style from five flat rectangles — no fussy shaping — making it a perfect confidence-building project for **beginners**. Wear it open over a tank or tee.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Beginner** — straight rectangles, one easy repeating stitch, simple seaming.

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## SIZING

| Size | Bust to Fit | Finished Bust | Positive Ease |
|------|-------------|---------------|---------------|
| S/M  | 32–38"      | 44"           | 6–12"         |
| L/XL | 40–46"      | 52"           | 6–12"         |
| 2X/3X| 48–54"      | 60"           | 6–12"         |

**Sample shown in S/M (Finished Bust 44").**
Instructions are written for **S/M**, with **(L/XL, 2X/3X)** in parentheses where they differ.

### Finished Measurements (S/M shown)
- **Bust circumference (worn open, flat x2):** 44 (52, 60)"
- **Body length (hem to shoulder):** 26 (27, 28)"
- **Sleeve length (underarm to cuff):** 17 (17, 18)"
- **Sleeve width:** 16 (17, 18)"

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Medium #4), drapey fiber recommended (cotton, cotton-blend, or bamboo).
  - **Yardage:** approx. 1100 (1300, 1500) yds.
- **Hook:** US I-9 / **5.5 mm** (a touch larger than typical worsted hook to enhance drape).
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors.

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## GAUGE
In filet mesh pattern, after blocking:
**7 mesh units (each = 1 dc + 1 ch-1 space) = 4" (10 cm); 8 rows = 4" (10 cm).**

> **Gauge check:** 1 mesh unit ≈ 0.57". A 14-unit swatch should measure ~8" wide and 8 rows ~4" tall. Take time to match gauge — it sets all your dimensions.

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## STITCH GLOSSARY (US Terms)
- **ch** — chain
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **sc** — single crochet
- **dc** — double crochet
- **sp** — space
- **sl st** — slip stitch

### Filet Mesh Pattern (the heart of this project)
Worked over a **starting chain that is a multiple of 2, plus 2**.

- **Row 1:** dc in 6th ch from hook (the skipped 5 ch count as first dc + ch-1 sp), *ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch*; repeat from * to last ch, dc in last ch. Turn.
- **Row 2 (and all following):** ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1 sp), skip first dc and ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, *ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, dc in next dc*; repeat across, ending with dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 for pattern. Each "mesh unit" = one dc + one ch-1 space.

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## A NOTE ON CONSTRUCTION (Kimono T-Shape)
This cardigan is intentionally **boxy** and worked as flat rectangles:
- **NO armhole shaping**
- **NO shoulder shaping**
- **NO sleeve tapering**
- **NO waist shaping**

Sleeves attach at right angles to the body (dropped shoulder). Just crochet five straight rectangles and seam them. Easy!

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# THE PIECES

> **Counting tip:** "Mesh units" below counts dc+ch-1 pairs. The number of dc posts is always one more than the number of ch-1 spaces in a row.

## 1. BACK (make 1)
Foundation: **Ch 80 (94, 108).**

> **Math check:** Ch 80 → Row 1 makes 39 mesh units → 39 × 0.57" ≈ **22"** wide. ×2 (front+back) accounting for fronts gives target bust. ✓
> (L/XL ch 94 → 46 units ≈ 26"; 2X/3X ch 108 → 53 units ≈ 30".)

- **Row 1:** Work Filet Mesh Row 1 across. *(39 (46, 53) mesh units)*
- **Rows 2–52 (54, 56):** Work Filet Mesh Row 2.

Work until piece measures **26 (27, 28)"** from start. Fasten off.

> **Row math:** 52 rows ÷ 8 rows per 4" = 26". ✓

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## 2. LEFT FRONT (make 1)
Foundation: **Ch 40 (48, 54).**

> **Math check:** Ch 40 → 19 mesh units → ≈ **10.9"** wide. Two fronts ≈ 21.8" ≈ back width. ✓

- **Row 1:** Work Filet Mesh Row 1. *(19 (23, 26) mesh units)*
- **Rows 2–52 (54, 56):** Work Filet Mesh Row 2 until piece measures **26 (27, 28)"**. Fasten off.

No neckline shaping needed — the open front and border create the drape.

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## 3. RIGHT FRONT (make 1)
Work exactly as **Left Front**. Fasten off.

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## 4. SLEEVES (make 2)
Foundation: **Ch 58 (62, 66).**

> **Math check:** Ch 58 → 28 mesh units → ≈ **16"** wide. Sleeve is the same width top and bottom — **no tapering**. ✓

- **Row 1:** Work Filet Mesh Row 1. *(28 (30, 32) mesh units)*
- **Rows 2–34 (34, 36):** Work Filet Mesh Row 2 until sleeve measures **17 (17, 18)"**. Fasten off.

> **Row math:** 34 rows ÷ 8 × 4 = 17". ✓

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# ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces flat to open up the mesh and even out stitches before seaming.

### Step 1 — Shoulder Seams
Lay the Back flat. Place each Front on top, right sides together, aligning the top edge (shoulder). Seam **the outer 4 (4.5, 5)"** of each shoulder using mattress stitch or sl st seam, leaving the **center back-neck open** (about 14 (17, 20)" gap for the neck/front opening).

> **Neck math:** Back width 22" − two 4" shoulder seams = 14" neck opening. ✓

### Step 2 — Attach Sleeves (Dropped Shoulder)
Lay the joined body flat and open. Find the **center of each sleeve's top edge** and align it with the **shoulder seam**. Pin the sleeve top edge perpendicular to the body, distributing evenly down each side from the shoulder seam. Seam in place.

> The sleeve attaches at a right angle — this creates the classic dropped-shoulder kimono silhouette.

### Step 3 — Side & Sleeve Seams
Fold the garment at the shoulders. In one continuous line per side:
1. Seam the **sleeve underside** from cuff to underarm.
2. Continue seaming the **body side** from underarm to hem.
Repeat on the other side.

### Step 4 — Border / Edging
With right side facing, join yarn at the bottom right front corner.
- **Round 1 (sc):** Work evenly in sc up the right front, around the back neck, and down the left front, working **3 sc into each front corner**. Work approximately 1 sc per row-end and 1 sc per st along edges. Do **not** edge the bottom hem unless desired.
- **Round 2 (shell, optional):** *Skip 1 sc, work 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, sl st in next sc*; repeat for a soft scalloped edge.

Cuffs and hem may be left as the natural mesh edge or finished with one round of sc.

### Step 5 — Closure
Worn **open** as designed. Optional: add a single button and ch-loop at the bust, or sew two 12" fabric ties at the front for a tie closure.

### Step 6 — Final Block
Weave in all ends. Gently steam or wet-block the finished cardigan to relax the mesh and perfect the drape.

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## QUICK YARDAGE & PIECE SUMMARY (S/M)
| Piece | Foundation Ch | Mesh Units | Width | Rows | Length |
|-------|--------------|------------|-------|------|--------|
| Back  | 80 | 39 | 22" | 52 | 26" |
| Left Front | 40 | 19 | 10.9" | 52 | 26" |
| Right Front | 40 | 19 | 10.9" | 52 | 26" |
| Sleeve (×2) | 58 | 28 | 16" | 34 | 17" |

**Bust total:** Back 22" + Left Front 10.9" + Right Front 10.9" = **43.8" ≈ 44"** finished. ✓

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Enjoy your airy, beginner-friendly filet mesh kimono cardigan! The open mesh keeps it light and breathable, while the simple T-shape construction means there's no complicated shaping to track — just five rectangles and straight seams.