purlJam

<pattern>

# GRANNY SQUARE KIMONO CARDIGAN

A breezy, beginner-friendly kimono-style cardigan featuring continuous granny square stripes. This relaxed, oversized design showcases the classic granny square motif worked in rows for easy construction. The dropped-shoulder silhouette and rectangular pieces make this an ideal project for learning garment construction.

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4) yarn
- Approx 1400 (1650, 1900) yards
- Sample shown in cotton/acrylic blend for drape and stitch definition
- Recommended fibers: cotton, bamboo blends, or soft acrylic for best drape

**Hook**: 
- US Size H/8 (5.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
- US Size G/6 (4.0 mm) for edging (optional, for tighter border)

**Notions**:
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Optional: 1 yd coordinating ribbon or fabric for tie closure

## GAUGE

**In Granny Square Stripe Pattern** (after blocking):
- 3 granny clusters + 3 ch-1 spaces = 4"
- 11 rows = 4"

**To measure gauge**: Work foundation chain of 20 ch, work Rows 1-15 of granny stripe pattern. Block swatch gently. Measure across center of swatch, counting complete clusters.

*Gauge is moderately important*: The oversized kimono silhouette is forgiving, but verify your gauge to ensure adequate coverage between clusters and proper finished measurements.

## SIZES

**S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X)**

**Finished Measurements**:
- **Bust circumference** (closed): 42 (50, 58)" with 8-10" positive ease
- **Body length** (from shoulder): 24 (24, 24)"
- **Sleeve length** (from shoulder): 18 (18, 18)"
- **Sleeve width**: 16 (16, 16)"

**To choose your size**: Select based on desired finished bust measurement. This kimono is meant to be worn open or with a loose tie closure, with significant positive ease for a relaxed, drapey fit.

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **ch** = chain
- **dc** = double crochet
- **sc** = single crochet
- **sl st** = slip stitch
- **sp** = space
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **rep** = repeat
- **beg** = beginning
- ***= repeat instructions between asterisks as directed
- **cluster** = granny cluster (3 dc in same st or sp)

## NOTES

**Construction**: This kimono is worked in separate flat rectangular pieces (back, two fronts, two sleeves) and seamed together. The distinctive kimono T-shape means no armhole shaping and sleeves that attach perpendicular to the body for a relaxed, dropped-shoulder fit.

**Granny Square Stripe Pattern**: This pattern creates the look of granny squares worked continuously in rows rather than individual motifs. Each "cluster" consists of 3 dc worked in the same space. Clusters are separated by ch-1 spaces.

**Stitch Pattern Notes**:
- Each row begins and ends with partial clusters (2 dc) to maintain straight edges
- Always work clusters into ch-1 spaces of previous row, NOT into individual dc stitches
- Ch-3 at beginning of rows counts as 1 dc throughout
- Pattern has a RS and WS, but both sides are attractive

**Turning Chain**: The ch-3 at the beginning of each row counts as the first dc of the beginning cluster.

**Pattern Multiple**: The granny stripe pattern requires a starting chain of a multiple of 4 + 3 additional chains.

**Customization Ideas**:
- Work in striped colors, changing every 2 rows for classic granny square look
- Add a contrasting color for the edging
- Make it longer by working additional rows on body pieces
- Create 3/4 length sleeves by working fewer rows

**Skill Level**: Advanced Beginner - requires knowledge of basic stitches (chain, double crochet, single crochet) and ability to work into chain spaces. Perfect for learning garment construction.

## GRANNY SQUARE STRIPE PATTERN

**Foundation Row**: Ch a multiple of 4 + 3.

**Row 1 (RS)**: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch counts as first dc of cluster), *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * across to last 4 ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn. 

**Row 2 (WS)**: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sp, ch 1, 2 dc in sp formed by turning ch, turn.

**Row 3**: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sp, ch 1, 2 dc in sp formed by turning ch, turn.

**Repeat Row 3** for pattern.

**Stitch Count Note**: After Row 1, you should have clusters across with ch-1 spaces between. Count includes partial clusters at edges. S/M = 15 complete clusters, L/XL = 18 complete clusters, 2X/3X = 21 complete clusters.

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## BACK BODY

**Foundation Chain**: Ch 59 (71, 83). [Math check: S/M = 4 x 15 - 1 = 59; L/XL = 4 x 18 - 1 = 71; 2X/3X = 4 x 21 - 1 = 83]

**Row 1 (RS)**: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * across to last 4 ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn. 
[You should have 15 (18, 21) complete 3-dc clusters between edge partial clusters]

**Row 2**: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sp, ch 1, 2 dc in sp formed by turning ch, turn.

**Rows 3-66**: Rep Row 2. [Math check: 66 rows x 4" ÷ 11 rows = 24"]

**Fasten off**. Weave in ends.

**Finished Back Measurements**: 
- Width: Approximately 20 (24, 28)" [Math check: 15 clusters = 20", 18 clusters = 24", 21 clusters = 28"]
- Length: 24"

---

## LEFT FRONT

**Foundation Chain**: Ch 31 (35, 43). [Math check: S/M = 7.5 clusters = 30 + 1 = 31; L/XL = 9 clusters = 36 - 1 = 35; 2X/3X = 10.5 clusters = 42 + 1 = 43]

**Row 1 (RS)**: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * across to last 4 ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn. 
[You should have 7 (8, 10) complete 3-dc clusters between edge partial clusters]

**Row 2**: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sp, ch 1, 2 dc in sp formed by turning ch, turn.

**Rows 3-66**: Rep Row 2.

**Fasten off**. Weave in ends.

**Finished Left Front Measurements**: 
- Width: Approximately 10 (12, 14)"
- Length: 24"

---

## RIGHT FRONT

Work same as Left Front.

**Finished Right Front Measurements**: 
- Width: Approximately 10 (12, 14)"
- Length: 24"

---

## SLEEVES (make 2)

**Foundation Chain**: Ch 47 (all sizes). [Math check: 12 clusters x 4 - 1 = 47]

**Row 1 (RS)**: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * across to last 4 ch, ch 1, sk 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch, turn. 
[You should have 11 complete 3-dc clusters between edge partial clusters]

**Row 2**: Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sp, ch 1, 2 dc in sp formed by turning ch, turn.

**Rows 3-50**: Rep Row 2. [Math check: 50 rows x 4" ÷ 11 rows = 18.2" ≈ 18"]

**Fasten off**. Weave in ends.

**Finished Sleeve Measurements** (all sizes): 
- Width: Approximately 16"
- Length: 18"

---

## ASSEMBLY

**Blocking**: Before seaming, block all pieces gently to measurements. Spray or steam block to open up the granny square pattern and straighten edges. Pin to measurements and allow to dry completely.

**Seaming Method**: Use mattress stitch with yarn needle or slip stitch seaming with crochet hook. Because of the open granny square pattern, mattress stitch through the dc posts creates the neatest seam.

**Step 1 - Shoulder Seams**: 
- Lay back body flat, RS facing up
- Place left front on left side of back, RS together, aligning top edges
- Measure 7 (8, 9)" in from side edge of back and mark - this is the shoulder seam line
- Seam left front to back for 7 (8, 9)" from armhole edge toward neck
- Repeat for right front on right side
- This leaves approximately 6 (8, 10)" open at center back for neck opening

[Math check: S/M = 7" shoulder + 7" shoulder + 6" neck = 20" back width ✓; L/XL = 8" + 8" + 8" = 24" ✓; 2X/3X = 9" + 9" + 10" = 28" ✓]

**Step 2 - Attach Sleeves**:
- Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise to find center
- Mark center top of sleeve
- Match center of sleeve to shoulder seam
- Pin sleeve to body, aligning the 18" length of sleeve edge with front and back body edges (9" on front, 9" on back from shoulder seam)
- The sleeve attaches perpendicular to body (T-shape) - do NOT attempt to ease or shape
- Seam sleeve to body on both sides

**Step 3 - Side and Sleeve Seams**:
- Align side edges of front and back, RS together
- Seam from bottom hem up to underarm (sleeve edge)
- Continue seaming down underside of sleeve from underarm to cuff edge
- Repeat for other side

**Step 4 - Weave in all remaining ends**

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## FRONT BANDS AND EDGING

**Edging Round**: This creates a neat, stabilizing border around the entire front opening and neckline.

**Round 1**: With RS facing, join yarn at bottom right front corner.
- Work sc evenly up right front edge (work approximately 2 sc for every row-end, adjusting as needed to keep edge flat)
- Work 3 sc in corner at neck edge
- Work sc evenly across back neck edge
- Work 3 sc