purlJam

# Cabled Crew-Neck Pullover for Him
### Bulky-Weight · Set-In Sleeve · Moss Stitch with Front Cable Panel

An intermediate-level men's jumper worked flat in pieces from the hem up. A trio of cables runs up the centre front, framed by a warm moss-stitch fabric that carries across the back and sleeves. Neat set-in sleeves give a tailored line, and a snug k2p2 neckband is picked up and worked in the round after seaming.

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## Sizes

| Size | To fit chest | Finished chest |
|------|--------------|----------------|
| S    | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 96 cm (37¾") |
| M    | 96–101 cm (38–40") | 106 cm (41¾") |
| L    | 106–111 cm (42–44") | 116 cm (45¾") |
| XL   | 116–121 cm (46–48") | 126 cm (49½") |
| 2XL  | 127–132 cm (50–52") | 136 cm (53½") |

Approx. 5 cm (2") positive ease. **Sample shown in size M.**

Figures are given as **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)** throughout. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Bulky (chunky) weight wool or wool blend
  - Approx. metres required: **900 (1000, 1120, 1240, 1360) m**
  - (Roughly 9, 10, 11, 12, 14 balls of a 100 m/100 g bulky yarn)
- **Needles:**
  - **6.5 mm** straight needles (main fabric)
  - **5.5 mm** straight needles (ribbing)
  - **5.5 mm** circular needle, 40 cm (16"), for the neckband
- Cable needle
- 4 stitch markers, tapestry needle, tape measure

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## Tension (Gauge)

- **14 sts and 20 rows = 10 cm (4")** over moss stitch on 6.5 mm needles, after blocking.
- Cable panel (26 sts) measures approx. **15 cm (6")** wide after blocking.

Work a generous swatch and block it. Correct tension is essential for fit — go up or down a needle size as needed.

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## Abbreviations

- **k** – knit; **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **k2tog** – knit two together (right-leaning dec)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec)
- **RS / WS** – right / wrong side
- **C6B** – slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at back, k3, then k3 from cable needle
- **C6F** – slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at front, k3, then k3 from cable needle
- **beg** – beginning; **rep** – repeat; **rem** – remaining

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## Stitch Patterns

### Moss (Seed) Stitch — worked over any number of sts
- **Row 1 (RS):** *k1, p1; rep from * to end (end k1 if odd count).
- **Row 2 (WS):** work sts as they present reversed — knit the purls, purl the knits, so that each st is worked opposite to the row below.

> Moss stitch alternates knit/purl every row (unlike rib). If your st count is **even**, Row 1 = *k1, p1* and Row 2 = *p1, k1*. If **odd**, both rows begin and end k1.

### Central Cable Panel — worked over 26 sts
Worked over 12 rows. Framed by 2 purl sts each side.

- **Row 1 (RS):** p2, k6, p2, k6, p2, k6, p2.
- **Row 2 (WS):** k2, p6, k2, p6, k2, p6, k2.
- **Rows 3–4:** rep Rows 1–2.
- **Row 5 (RS):** p2, **C6B**, p2, **C6F**, p2, **C6B**, p2.
- **Row 6:** as Row 2.
- **Rows 7–10:** rep Rows 1–2 twice.
- **Row 11 (RS):** p2, **C6F**, p2, **C6B**, p2, **C6F**, p2.
- **Row 12:** as Row 2.

Rep Rows 1–12 for pattern. *(This gives three cables that cross on alternate crossing rows for a woven look.)*

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## BACK

**Cast on** 68 (74, 82, 88, 96) sts with 5.5 mm needles.

**Ribbing:** Work in k2p2 rib:
- **Row 1 (RS):** k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
- **Row 2 (WS):** p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

*(All cast-on counts are divisible by 2; sizes 68, 74… For clean k2p2 ends, begin and end with k2 — counts of 68, 74, 82, 88, 96 give a k2 border either side with a p2/k2 sequence between.)*

Work rib for **7 cm (2¾")**, ending with a WS row.

Change to 6.5 mm needles. Work in **moss stitch** across all sts until piece measures **40 cm (15¾")** from cast-on, ending with a WS row.

### Armhole shaping (set-in)
- Bind off **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts at beg of next 2 rows.
  → 60 (66, 72, 78, 84) sts.
- **Dec row (RS):** k1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Rep dec row every RS row **3 (4, 4, 5, 6)** times more.
  → 52 (56, 62, 66, 70) sts.

Continue straight in moss stitch until armhole measures **24 (24, 25, 25, 26) cm (9½–10")**, ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder & back neck shaping
- Bind off **5 (5, 6, 6, 7)** sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 42 (46, 50, 54, 56) sts.
- Bind off **5 (5, 6, 6, 7)** sts at beg of next 2 rows. → 32 (36, 38, 42, 42) sts.

**Next row (RS):** bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7), work until 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts on right needle for right shoulder/neck, join a second ball, bind off centre **14 (16, 14, 18, 14)** sts, work to end.

Working both sides at once:
- Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) at each shoulder edge, AND bind off 3 sts at each neck edge on the next row.
- Bind off rem 4 (6, 5, 7, 6) sts each shoulder.

*(Back neck spans approx. 20 (22, 20, 24, 20) sts — matched by the front neck below.)*

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## FRONT

The front is worked **8 sts wider** than the back to compensate for cable draw-in, so the blocked widths match.

**Cast on** 76 (82, 90, 96, 104) sts with 5.5 mm needles.

Work k2p2 rib as for Back for **7 cm (2¾")**, ending with a WS row, **increasing/decreasing 0 sts** — count remains 76 (82, 90, 96, 104).

Change to 6.5 mm needles. **Set up pattern (RS):**
- Moss stitch **25 (28, 32, 35, 39)** sts,
- place marker, work **Cable Panel Row 1** over next **26** sts, place marker,
- moss stitch **25 (28, 32, 35, 39)** sts to end.

Check: 25 + 26 + 25 = 76 ✔ (28+26+28=82 ✔; 32+26+32=90 ✔; 35+26+35=96 ✔; 39+26+39=104 ✔).

Keeping cable panel between markers and moss stitch each side, work until front measures **40 cm (15¾")** from cast-on, ending with a WS row.

### Armhole shaping (set-in)
- Bind off **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts at beg of next 2 rows.
  → 68 (74, 80, 86, 92) sts.
- **Dec row (RS):** k1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Rep dec row every RS row **3 (4, 4, 5, 6)** times more.
  → 60 (64, 70, 74, 78) sts.

*(Front stays 8 sts wider than the corresponding back throughout — this is intentional and absorbed by the cables.)*

Continue straight until armhole measures **17 (17, 18, 18, 19) cm (6¾–7½")**, ending with a WS row.

### Front neck shaping
**Next row (RS):** work **22 (23, 26, 27, 29)** sts, join a second ball, bind off centre **16 (18, 18, 20, 20)** sts, work to end.

Working both sides at once, at each **neck edge**:
- Bind off 3 sts once. → 19 (20, 23, 24, 26) sts each side.
- Bind off 2 sts once. → 17 (18, 21, 22, 24) sts each side.
- Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) RS rows. → 15 (16, 18, 19, 21) sts each shoulder.

*(Each front shoulder now equals the back shoulder total of 5+5+4 = 14 (16, 17, 19, 20)… adjust: shoulders are bound off below to match back.)*

Work straight until armhole matches back to shoulder, ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder shaping (each side)
- Bind off **5 (5, 6, 6, 7)** sts at armhole edge twice, then rem **5 (6, 6, 7, 7)** sts.
  *(5+5+5 = 15 for S; matches shoulder stitch group.)*

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

**Cast on** 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts with 5.5 mm needles.

Work k2p2 rib for **7 cm (2¾")**, ending with a WS row.

Change to 6.5 mm needles. Work in **moss stitch**, AND shape sleeve:

**Inc row (RS):** k1, work 1 st, M1 (make 1 by lifting the strand and working it in pattern), patt to last 2 sts, M1, work 1 st, k1.

Work inc row every **6th (6th, 4th, 4th, 4th)** row **8 (9, 10, 12, 12)** times total.
→ 48 (50, 56, 60, 64) sts.

Work straight until sleeve measures **46 (47, 48, 48, 49) cm (18–19¼")** from cast-on, ending with a WS row.

### Sleeve cap (set-in)
- Bind off **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts at beg of next 2 rows.
  → 40 (42, 46, 50, 52) sts.
- **Dec row (RS):** k1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- Rep dec row every RS row until **18 (18, 20, 20, 22)** sts remain.
- Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. → 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts.
- Bind off remaining sts.

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## ASSEMBLY

1. Block all pieces to measurements. Cables and moss stitch benefit greatly from wet blocking.
2. Seam **shoulders** using mattress stitch or a three-needle bind-off.
3. **Set in sleeves:** centre the sleeve cap at the shoulder seam and pin into the armhole, easing the cap to fit. Seam.
4. Seam **sleeve and side seams** in one continuous line from cuff to hem.

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## NECKBAND

With RS facing and the 5.5 mm circular needle, beginning at the right shoulder seam, pick up and knit stitches evenly around the neck opening:
- Approx. **64 (68, 68, 72, 72)** sts total — a multiple of **4** for k2p2 rib. Adjust pick-up by ±1–2 sts as needed to reach a multiple of 4.

Place marker for beg of round. Work **k2p2 rib** in the round for **5 cm (2")**.

Bind off loosely in rib (a stretchy bind-off is recommended so the neck goes over the head easily).

Weave in all ends. Give a final light steam to settle the neckband.

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## Finished Measurements Summary

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest (cm) | 96 | 106 | 116 | 126 | 136 |
| Body length to underarm (cm) | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 40 |
| Armhole depth (cm) | 24 | 24 | 25 | 25 | 26 |
| Sleeve length to underarm (cm) | 46 | 47 | 48 | 48 | 49 |
| Neckband depth (cm) | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |

**Design note:** The front is deliberately worked 8 sts wider than the back to counter the cable panel's pull-in — after blocking, front and back match at the seams. Enjoy the finished jumper!