purlJam

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# CASCADING GARDEN CARDIGAN
### A Lacy Top-Down Seamless Raglan with Asymmetric Ruffle Lapel

---

## DESIGNER'S NOTE

The *Cascading Garden Cardigan* is an advanced lace project that surprises with an asymmetric deep-V neckline and a sweeping single-sided lace ruffle lapel — as if a climbing rose has chosen only one shoulder to bloom. The body and sleeves feature a repeating Vine & Leaf lace panel set against a reverse stockinette ground, giving the fabric an organic, garden-trellis texture. Worked top-down and seamlessly (except for finishing the ruffle), this cardigan is as clever to knit as it is stunning to wear.

---

## SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

**Finished Bust (with 2 in / 5 cm positive ease):**
34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66) in
86 (97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147, 157, 168) cm

**Finished Length (back neck to hem):** 25 (25.5, 26, 26.5, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.5, 29) in / 63.5 (65, 66, 67, 68.5, 70, 71, 72.5, 73.5) cm

**Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff):** 17.5 (17.5, 18, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19) in / 44.5 (44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47, 47, 48) cm

**Upper Arm Circumference:** 12 (13.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5, 24) in / 30.5 (34, 38, 42, 45.5, 49.5, 53.5, 57, 61) cm

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight, smooth plied construction recommended for lace definition.
- **Sample shown in:** A plant-fiber blend (merino/cotton or merino/bamboo) for beautiful drape and excellent blocking.
- **Yardage:**
  - XS: 1,450 yds (1,326 m)
  - S: 1,650 yds (1,509 m)
  - M: 1,900 yds (1,738 m)
  - L: 2,150 yds (1,966 m)
  - XL: 2,450 yds (2,240 m)
  - 2X: 2,750 yds (2,515 m)
  - 3X: 3,050 yds (2,789 m)
  - 4X: 3,400 yds (3,109 m)
  - 5X: 3,750 yds (3,429 m)

**Suggested Yarn:** Cascade 220 Superwash, Paintbox Simply DK (held double — see Note), Lion Brand Wool-Ease, or any worsted that gives gauge.

> **Yarn Note:** If using a smooth DK held double, the drape will be even more fluid and the lace crisper after blocking. All yardages above refer to single-strand worsted.

**Needles:**
- US 8 / 5 mm — 40 in (100 cm) circular needle (for yoke and body)
- US 8 / 5 mm — 16 in (40 cm) circular needle OR DPNs (for sleeves)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm — 40 in (100 cm) circular needle (for hems, cuffs, and neckband)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm — straight or short circular (for ruffle lapel, worked flat)

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers — 6 locking + 8 ring (different colors for raglan vs. lace panel markers recommended)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn — 2 lengths
- Tapestry needle
- Blocking mats and pins
- 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) decorative buttons, ⅝ in (16 mm) diameter
- Sewing needle and matching thread (for button attachment)
- Row counter (strongly recommended)

---

## GAUGE

**18 sts × 24 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles, blocked.**

**17 sts × 22 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in Vine & Leaf Lace pattern on US 8 / 5 mm needles, blocked.**

> **Gauge is critical.** Both gauges are used in this garment. Swatch both in the round AND flat. Block your swatch before measuring — lace opens significantly with wet blocking and the body of this garment is designed around the blocked lace gauge. If your lace gauge is off, adjust needle size accordingly.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | Bind off |
| CC | Contrast color (not used in this pattern; for reference) |
| CO | Cast on |
| dec | Decrease(s) |
| inc | Increase(s) |
| k | Knit |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | Knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| m | Marker |
| m1L | Make 1 left-leaning (lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop) |
| m1R | Make 1 right-leaning (lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop) |
| p | Purl |
| p2tog | Purl 2 stitches together |
| pm | Place marker |
| rem | Remaining |
| rep | Repeat |
| RS | Right side |
| sl | Slip stitch purlwise with yarn in back (unless stated otherwise) |
| sm | Slip marker |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| tbl | Through back loop |
| WS | Wrong side |
| wyib | With yarn in back |
| wyif | With yarn in front |
| yo | Yarn over |
| [ ] | Work bracketed instructions the number of times indicated |
| * * | Repeat instructions between asterisks as directed |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Long-Tail Cast-On
Used for all initial cast-ons. Creates a neat, slightly elastic edge.

### German Short Rows (GSR)
Used for back neck shaping. On the turn: turn work, slip first stitch purlwise wyif, bring yarn over needle to back — this creates a "double stitch." On subsequent rows, work the double stitch together as one stitch.

### Picot Bind-Off
*Used for hem, cuffs, and neckband edge.*
CO 2 sts using knitted cast-on, BO 4 sts, *slip remaining st back to left needle, CO 2 sts using knitted cast-on, BO 4 sts; rep from * to end. Fasten off.

### 3-Needle Bind-Off
Used at shoulders if a firmer join is preferred (optional; seaming is not required in this top-down construction).

---

## STITCH PATTERNS

### PATTERN A: Vine & Leaf Lace
*(Multiple of 8 sts + 1; worked flat over an odd number of rows as written)*

**Chart Description (also written out below):**
The motif creates diagonal yarn-over columns suggesting climbing vines, punctuated by mirrored leaf decreases.

**Row 1 (RS):** K1, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end. *(Note: this rep is 9 sts including the initial k1 anchor; see written directions below for correct application.)*

> **Lace Written Directions (8-st repeat + 1 edge st each side for flat knitting):**

**Setup:** The lace panel is worked over blocks of (8n + 1) stitches where n = number of repeats. The pattern is also flanked by 1 selvedge stitch on each edge when worked flat (these are included in the stitch counts given in the pattern).

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1 wyib (selvedge), *k1, yo, k2, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge).
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1 wyif (selvedge), purl to last st, k1 (selvedge).
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1 wyib, *k2, yo, k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge).
**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 5 (RS):** Sl1 wyib, *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge).
**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 7 (RS):** Sl1 wyib, *k2, yo, k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selvedge).
**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2.

*Rep Rows 1–8 for pattern.*

> **Technical Note — sl1-k2tog-psso:** Slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog result. This is a centered double decrease that removes 2 stitches and replaces them with 1, maintaining stitch count within each repeat when paired with the 2 yarn-overs in the same row. ✅ Stitch count check: Each 8-st repeat has 2 yo's and 1 double decrease (–2 sts) = net zero change per row. ✓

---

### PATTERN B: Ruffle Lace (for Lapel)
*(Worked flat, any stitch count — worked over a multiple of 7 sts + 2)*

**Row 1 (RS):** K2, *yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, k2; rep from * to end. *(net zero)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts.
**Row 3 (RS):** K2, *k1, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2tog, k1; rep from * to end. *(net zero)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.
**Row 5 (RS):** K2, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts from rep start... 

> **Ruffle Increase Section** (worked at beginning of lapel to create fullness):
> Every RS row for 12 rows: Kfb in each stitch = double stitch count over 12 rows.
> Then proceed with Pattern B Rows 1–4 for ruffle lace body.
> Full Ruffle Lapel instructions are given in the Ruffle Lapel section below.

---

### PATTERN C: 2×2 Rib
K2, p2; rep to end (adjust as needed for stitch count).

---

## SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS

```
Back Width (at underarm):
XS: 17 in | S: 19 in | M: 21 in | L: 23 in | XL: 25 in
2X: 27 in | 3X: 29 in | 4X: 31 in | 5X: 33 in

Each Front Width (at underarm):
XS: 8.5 in | S: 9.5 in | M: 10.5 in | L: 11.5 in | XL: 12.5 in
2X: 13.5 in | 3X: 14.5 in | 4X: 15.5 in | 5X: 16.5 in

Raglan Depth:
XS: 7 in | S: 7.5 in | M: 8 in | L: 8.5 in | XL: 9 in
2X: 9 in | 3X: 9.5 in | 4X: 9.5 in | 5X: 10 in

Body Length (underarm to hem, before border):
XS–M: 15 in | L–XL: 15.5 in | 2X–3X: 16 in | 4X–5X: 16.5 in

Hem Border: 2.5 in all sizes

Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm): As listed above
Cuff Rib: 2.5 in all sizes
```

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This cardigan is worked **top-down, flat on a circular needle** (to accommodate the large stitch count). The yoke begins at the back neck with a shaped neckline using German Short Rows, then the fronts are added and all pieces are joined for seamless raglan shaping. At the underarm, sleeve stitches are placed on hold and the body is worked to the hem. Sleeves are then worked in the round from held stitches. The asymmetric ruffle lapel is picked up along the right front edge and worked flat, then attached. Button bands and neckband are worked last.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: YOKE

#### Back Neck Cast-On

Using US 8 / 5 mm circular needle (40 in), CO the following number of stitches using the Long-Tail method:

| Size | CO Sts | Represents |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 32 | Back neck |
| S | 36 | Back neck |
| M | 40 | Back neck |
| L | 44 | Back neck |
| XL | 48 | Back neck |
| 2X | 52 | Back neck |
| 3X | 56 | Back neck |
| 4X | 60 | Back neck |
| 5X | 64 | Back neck |

> **Stitch Count Check:** Back width = 17–33 in across sizes. At 18 sts/4 in (stockinette), 17 in back = 76.5 sts; however, back neck is narrower than the full back — typically 40–50% of back width. These cast-ons represent the back neck width only. The full back width is achieved after raglan shaping. ✓

---

#### Back Neck Short Row Shaping

Work German Short Rows to shape the back neck (the back neck sits higher than the front neck, improving fit across all sizes).

**Short Row 1 (RS):** K to last 3 sts, turn (GSR).
**Short Row 2 (WS):** P to last 3 sts, turn (GSR).
**Short Row 3 (RS):** K to last 6 sts (working double st as one), turn (GSR).
**Short Row 4 (WS):** P to last 6 sts (working double st as one), turn (GSR).
**Short Row 5 (RS):** K to last 9 sts, turn (GSR).
**Short Row 6 (WS):** P to last 9 sts, turn (GSR).
**Next RS row:** Knit across all sts, working all double sts as single sts. *(Back neck shaping complete.)*
**Next WS row:** Purl across all sts.

---

#### Join Fronts & Set Up Raglan

On the next RS row, you will cast on stitches for the front necklines and set raglan markers.

**RS Setup Row:**

Using knitted cast-on, add front neck and setup stitches as follows. Work from right to left as the RS faces you:

1. CO the Left Front neck stitches (see table).
2. Work across the Back sts (already on needle), placing raglan markers as directed.
3. CO the Right Front neck stitches.

**Stitches to cast on for EACH front neck edge:**

| Size | Each Front Neck CO |
|---|---|
| XS | 14 |
| S | 16 |
| M | 18 |
| L | 20 |
| XL | 22 |
| 2X | 24 |
| 3X | 26 |
| 4X | 28 |
| 5X | 30 |

**Raglan Marker Placement During Setup Row:**

Work as follows (all on the RS setup row):

CO Left Front sts → pm (Raglan Marker A) → CO 2 (left sleeve seed sts, these are the initial sleeve sts) → pm (Raglan Marker B) → k across back sts → pm (Raglan Marker C) → CO 2 (right sleeve seed sts) → pm (Raglan Marker D) → CO Right Front sts.

**Total stitches on needle after Setup Row:**

| Size | Left Front | + | Sleeve | + | Back | + | Sleeve | + | Right Front | = | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 14 | + | 2 | + | 32 | + | 2 | + | 14 | = | **64** |
| S | 16 | + | 2 | + | 36 | + | 2 | + | 16 | = | **72** |
| M | 18 | + | 2 | + | 40 | + | 2 | + | 18 | = | **80** |
| L | 20 | + | 2 | + | 44 | + | 2 | + | 20 | = | **88** |
| XL | 22 | + | 2 | + | 48 | + | 2 | + | 22 | = | **96** |
| 2X | 24 | + | 2 | + | 52 | + | 2 | + | 24 | = | **104** |
| 3X | 26 | + | 2 | + | 56 | + | 2 | + | 26 | = | **112** |
| 4X | 28 | + | 2 | + | 60 | + | 2 | + | 28 | = | **120** |
| 5X | 30 | + | 2 | + | 64 | + | 2 | + | 30 | = | **128** |

> ✅ **Math Check:** Each total = (Front neck CO × 2) + 4 sleeve seed sts + back CO. Verified for all sizes. ✓

---

#### Raglan Increase Rows

Work raglan increases on every RS row as follows:

**RS Increase Row:** Sl1 wyib (selvedge), k to 1 st before Marker A, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *k to 1 st before next marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * 2 more times (for Markers B, C, D), k to last st, k1 (selvedge). *(8 sts increased total — 2 per raglan seam.)*

**WS Row:** Sl1 wyif, p to last st, k1 (selvedge). *(No increases on WS rows.)*

Continue working RS Increase Rows and WS plain rows until you have worked the following number of increase rows:

| Size | Raglan Inc Rows | Raglan Depth |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 31 | ~7 in |
| S | 34 | ~7.5 in |
| M | 37 | ~8 in |
| L | 40 | ~8.5 in |
| XL | 43 | ~9 in |
| 2X | 43 | ~9 in |
| 3X | 46 | ~9.5 in |
| 4X | 46 | ~9.5 in |
| 5X | 49 | ~10 in |

> **Tip:** Place a locking marker at the beginning of your raglan increase rows. Count from this marker, not from cast-on, to track your raglan depth accurately.

**Stitch Counts at End of Raglan (before underarm separation):**

After the stated number of increase rows, each raglan seam gains 2 sts/row × (rows worked). Starting with 2 sleeve sts and (back/front CO) body sts:

| Size | Left Front | Sleeve | Back | Sleeve | Right Front | **Total** |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 14+31=**45** | 2+62=**64** | 32+62=**94** | **64** | **45** | **312** |
| S | 16+34=**50** | 2+68=**70** | 36+68=**104** | **70** | **50** | **344** |
| M | 18+37=**55** | 2+74=**76** | 40+74=**114** | **76** | **55** | **376** |
| L | 20+40=**60** | 2+80=**82** | 44+80=**124** | **82** | **60** | **408** |
| XL | 22+43=**65** | 2+86=**88** | 48+86=**134** | **88** | **65** | **440** |
| 2X | 24+43=**67** | 2+86=**88** | 52+86=**138** | **88** | **67** | **448** |
| 3X | 26+46=**72** | 2+92=**94** | 56+92=**148** | **94** | **72** | **480** |
| 4X | 28+46=**74** | 2+92=**94** | 60+92=**152** | **94** | **74** | **488** |
| 5X | 30+49=**79** | 2+98=**100** | 64+98=**162** | **100** | **79** | **520** |

> ✅ **Math Check (XS example):** Each raglan seam = 31 rows × 2 sts = 62 added sts. Sleeve: 2+62=64. Front: 14+31=45. Back: 32+62=94. Total: 45+64+94+64+45 = 312. ✓
> ✅ **Math Check (5X example):** 49 rows × 2 = 98 added per seam. Sleeve: 2+98=100. Front: 30+49=79. Back: 64+98=162. Total: 79+100+162+100+79 = 520. ✓

---

#### Lace Panel Placement During Yoke

> **When to begin lace:** The Vine & Leaf Lace repeat is 8 sts wide. Begin working lace on the **back panel only** once the back stitch count reaches at least 41 sts (5 repeats of 8 + 1 center st). This occurs at approximately Raglan Increase Row 5 (back = 32+10 = 42 sts ✓) for sizes XS–M and earlier for larger sizes.

**Back Lace Setup:** Once back sts = 41 or more, work back sts as follows on RS rows:
- Selvedge raglan seam sts remain in stockinette (k on RS, p on WS).
- Center of back: work lace over the largest multiple of 8+1 that fits, with remainder worked in stockinette on each side.

> **Example (XS, back = 42 sts at Row 5):** 1 selvedge + 5 (st st buffer) + [4 × 8 + 1 = 33 lace sts] + 3 (st st buffer) + 0 selvedge = (1+5+33+3) = 42. ✓ The lace panel grows as more sts accumulate; absorb new back sts into the lace panel when another complete 8-st repeat is available.

---

### SECTION 2: BODY SEPARATION

At the end of the final raglan increase row, separate sleeves from body as follows:

**Separation Row (RS):**

Sl1 wyib, k across Left Front sts to Marker A, remove marker, place next [sleeve sts] on waste yarn holder, remove Marker B, CO [underarm sts] using backward loop CO, k across Back sts, remove Marker C, place next [sleeve sts] on waste yarn holder, remove Marker D, CO [underarm sts] using backward loop CO, k across Right Front sts to end.

**Underarm Cast-On and Body Stitch Counts:**

| Size | Each Front | Back | Underarm CO (each) | Total Body Sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 45 | 94 | 4 | 45+4+94+4+45 = **192** |
| S | 50 | 104 | 5 | 50+5+104+5+50 = **214** |
| M | 55 | 114 | 5 | 55+5+114+5+55 = **234** |
| L | 60 | 124 | 6 | 60+6+124+6+60 = **256** |
| XL | 65 | 134 | 6 | 65+6+134+6+65 = **276** |
| 2X | 67 | 138 | 7 | 67+7+138+7+67 = **286** |
| 3X | 72 | 148 | 7 | 72+7+148+7+72 = **306** |
| 4X | 74 | 152 | 8 | 74+8+152+8+74 = **316** |
| 5X | 79 | 162 | 8 | 79+8+162+8+79 = **336** |

> ✅ **Bust Circumference Check (at lace gauge 17 sts/4 in):**
> - XS: 192 ÷ 17 × 4 = 45.2 in... 
> 
> *Wait — let me cross-check using the body-only lace gauge more carefully. The body is a blend of stockinette and lace, so use a blended gauge of approximately 17.5 sts = 4 in.*
>
> - XS: 192 ÷ 17.5 × 4 = 43.9 in. This is a cardigan (open front), so the actual "around" includes the button band overlap. Effective wearing circumference ≈ 43.9 – 1 in (button band) = 42.9 in... hmm, target is 34 in bust + 2 in ease = 36 in.
>
> **Recalibration note:** A cardigan is worked flat — the total stitch count represents the *full circumference including both fronts meeting at center*. However, each front overlaps slightly for button band. At 17.5 sts/4 in: 192 ÷ 17.5 × 4 = 43.9 in total flat width, which when worn (fronts meeting) = 43.9 in circumference. For XS this gives ~10 in positive ease — generous but intentional for a drapey lace cardigan with an open front. 
>
> **Adjusting the design intent:** This is a relaxed, flowy silhouette. A 36 in finished bust for XS (2 in ease over a 34 in body) requires 36 ÷ 4 × 17.5 = 157.5 sts. Let me revise to target a more fitted silhouette.

---

> **⚠️ DESIGN REVISION — Technical Edit in Progress**
>
> After gauge cross-check, the stitch counts above yield more ease than intended. The pattern is redesigned with the following revised body stitch counts for a **4–5 in positive ease** (a standard "relaxed fit" for a lacy cardigan):

**REVISED Body Stitch Counts (targeting 4–5 in positive ease, blended gauge 17.5 sts/4 in):**

| Size | Target Finished Bust | Target Sts | Revised Total Body Sts | Actual Finished Bust |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 36–37 in | 157–162 sts | **160** | 36.6 in |
| S | 40–41 in | 175–179 sts | **176** | 40.2 in |
| M | 44–45 in | 192–197 sts | **192** | 43.9 in |
| L | 48–49 in | 210–214 sts | **212** | 48.5 in |
| XL | 52–54 in | 228–236 sts | **230** | 52.6 in |
| 2X | 56–58 in | 245–254 sts | **248** | 56.7 in |
| 3X | 60–62 in | 263–271 sts | **264** | 60.3 in |
| 4X | 64–66 in | 280–288 sts | **282** | 64.5 in |
| 5X | 68–70 in | 298–306 sts | **300** | 68.6 in |

**To achieve these body stitch counts, use revised raglan structure:**

The revised approach uses a consistent increase rate but adjusts the number of raglan increase rows AND the initial cast-on counts. The complete revised numbers are:

**Revised Yoke Cast-On and Structure:**

| Size | Back Neck CO | Each Front CO | Raglan Inc Rows | Underarm CO (each) | Body Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 | 12 | 26 | 4 | 28+(26×2)+(12+26)×2+(2+26×2)×2+(4×2) = see below |
| — | — | — | — | — | — |

> *Full revised table calculated below using the formula:*
> Body Total = (Front CO + raglan rows) × 2 + (Back CO + raglan rows × 2) + (underarm CO × 2)
> Where: each front = Front CO + raglan rows; back = Back CO + raglan rows × 2.

**Verified Revised Table:**

| Size | Back Neck CO | Each Front CO | Inc Rows | Each Front Final | Back Final | Underarm CO (each) | Body Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 26 | 12 | 26 | 12+26=38 | 26+52=78 | 3 | 38×2 + 78 + 3×2 = 76+78+6 = **160** ✓ |
| S | 30 | 14 | 28 | 14+28=42 | 30+56=86 | 3 | 42×2+86+6 = 84+86+6 = **176** ✓ |
| M | 32 | 15 | 30 | 15+30=45 | 32+60=92 | 5 | 45×2+92+10 = 90+92+10 = **192** ✓ |
| L | 36 | 17 | 32 | 17+32=49 | 36+64=100 | 7 | 49×2+100+14 = 98+100+14 = **212** ✓ |
| XL | 38 | 18 | 34 | 18+34=52 | 38+68=106 | 10 | 52×2+106+20 = 104+106+20 = **230** ✓ |
| 2X | 42 | 20 | 35 | 20+35=55 | 42+70=112 | 13 | 55×2+112+26 = 110+112+26 = **248** ✓ |
| 3X | 44 | 21 | 37 | 21+37=58 | 44+74=118 | 15 | 58×2+118+30 = 116+118+30 = **264** ✓ |
| 4X | 48 | 23 | 38 | 23+38=61 | 48+76=124 | 17 | 61×2+124+34 = 122+124+34 = **280** |

> Hmm, 280 vs target 282. Adjust: underarm CO = 18 → 61×2+124+36 = **282** ✓

| 4X | 48 | 23 | 38 | 61 | 124 | 18 | **282** ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5X | 52 | 25 | 40 | 25+40=65 | 52+80=132 | 19 | 65×2+132+38 = 130+132+38 = **300** ✓ |

> ✅ All body stitch counts verified. ✓

**Sleeve Stitches at Separation:**

| Size | Sleeve sts (2 + inc rows × 2) |
|---|---|
| XS | 2 + (26×2) = **54** |
| S | 2 + (28×2) = **58** |
| M | 2 + (30×2) = **62** |
| L | 2 + (32×2) = **66** |
| XL | 2 + (34×2) = **70** |
| 2X | 2 + (35×2) = **72** |
| 3X | 2 + (37×2) = **76** |
| 4X | 2 + (38×2) = **78** |
| 5X | 2 + (40×2) = **82** |

**Upper Arm Circumference Check (at 18 sts/4 in, stockinette):**

| Size | Sleeve sts + Underarm CO × 2 | Total Sleeve Circ Sts | Circumference |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 54 + 3×2 = 60 | 60 | 13.3 in |
| S | 58 + 3×2 = 64 | 64 | 14.2 in |
| M | 62 + 5×2 = 72 | 72 | 16.0 in |
| L | 66 + 7×2 = 80 | 80 | 17.8 in |
| XL | 70 + 10×2 = 90 | 90 | 20.0 in |
| 2X | 72 + 13×2 = 98 | 98 | 21.8 in |
| 3X | 76 + 15×2 = 106 | 106 | 23.6 in |
| 4X | 78 + 18×2 = 114 | 114 | 25.3 in |
| 5X | 82 + 19×2 = 120 | 120 | 26.7 in |

> ✅ These are generous ease numbers (approx 1–3 in positive ease on upper arm vs. standard sizing). This is appropriate for a flowy lace cardigan — the fabric will drape and the sleeve tapers. ✓

---

### SECTION 3: REWRITTEN YOKE INSTRUCTIONS (REVISED NUMBERS)

Please use the following revised cast-on and raglan row counts for your size.

#### Back Neck Cast-On

Using US 8 / 5 mm circular needle, CO using Long-Tail method:
**26 (30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52) sts.**

Work back neck short rows exactly as written in Section 1 (6 short rows total), then work 2 complete rows across all sts (RS knit, WS purl).

#### Join Fronts

**RS Setup Row:** CO **12 (14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25) sts** (Left Front) using knitted CO, pm (Raglan A), CO 2 (Left Sleeve), pm (Raglan B), k across Back sts, pm (Raglan C), CO 2 (Right Sleeve), pm (Raglan D), CO **12 (14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25) sts** (Right Front).

**Total sts after Setup Row:**
12+2+26+2+12 = **54** (XS)
14+2+30+2+14 = **62** (S)
15+2+32+2+15 = **66** (M)
17+2+36+2+17 = **74** (L)
18+2+38+2+18 = **78** (XL)
20+2+42+2+20 = **86** (2X)
21+2+44+2+21 = **90** (3X)
23+2+48+2+23 = **98** (4X)
25+2+52+2+25 = **106** (5X)

> ✅ All Setup Row totals verified. ✓

#### Raglan Increases

Work RS Increase Row and WS plain row as established for:
**26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 35, 37, 38, 40) RS increase rows.**

After all increase rows:

**Sts per section:**

| Size | Each Front | Sleeve (each) | Back |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 12+26=**38** | 2+(26×2)=**54** | 26+(26×2)=**78** |
| S | 14+28=**42** | 2+56=**58** | 30+56=**86** |
| M | 15+30=**45** | 2+60=**62** | 32+60=**92** |
| L | 17+32=**49** | 2+64=**66** | 36+64=**100** |
| XL | 18+34=**52** | 2+68=**70** | 38+68=**106** |
| 2X | 20+35=**55** | 2+70=**72** | 42+70=**112** |
| 3X | 21+37=**58** | 2+74=**76** | 44+74=**118** |
| 4X | 23+38=**61** | 2+76=**78** | 48+76=**124** |
| 5X | 25+40=**65** | 2+80=**82** | 52+80=**132** |

**Total on needle:**
XS: 38+54+78+54+38 = **262**
S: 42+58+86+58+42 = **286**
M: 45+62+92+62+45 = **306**
L: 49+66+100+66+49 = **330**
XL: 52+70+106+70+52 = **350**
2X: 55+72+112+72+55 = **366**
3X: 58+76+118+76+58 = **386**
4X: 61+78+124+78+61 = **402**
5X: 65+82+132+82+65 = **426**

> ✅ All yoke totals verified. ✓

---

### SECTION 4: UNDERARM SEPARATION (REVISED)

**Separation Row (RS):** Sl1, k across Left Front (38/42/45/49/52/55/58/61/65 sts) to Marker A; remove marker; place next 54 (58, 62, 66, 70, 72, 76, 78, 82) sleeve sts on waste yarn; remove Marker B; CO **3 (3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, 19) sts** using backward loop CO; k across Back sts; remove Marker C; place next sleeve sts on waste yarn; remove Marker D; CO same underarm sts; k to end.

**Body stitch counts after separation:**
38+3+78+3+38 = **160** (XS) ✓
42+3+86+3+42 = **176** (S) ✓
45+5+92+5+45 = **192** (M) ✓
49+7+100+7+49 = **212** (L) ✓
52+10+106+10+52 = **230** (XL) ✓
55+13+112+13+55 = **248** (2X) ✓
58+15+118+15+58 = **264** (3X) ✓
61+18+124+18+61 = **282** (4X) ✓
65+19+132+19+65 = **300** (5X) ✓

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

After separation, continue working flat on circular needle.

#### Establish Lace on Body

The body is worked with the following structure on RS rows:

- **Each Front:** Work in stockinette (the fronts are the "canvas" for the ruffle lapel — keeping them plain helps the lapel stand out).
- **Back:** Work Vine & Leaf Lace pattern centered on back sts, with stockinette borders as needed to fill non-multiple-of-8 sts.
- **Side "seam" areas** (underarm cast-on sts): Work in reverse stockinette (purl on RS, knit on WS) to create a subtle seam line.

**Back Lace Panel Setup:**

The back lace panel is centered and works the maximum number of complete 8-st repeats. The formula is:

Back sts = Buffer + (n × 8 + 1) + Buffer, where buffer sts = (Back sts – (n×8+1)) ÷ 2.

| Size | Back Sts | Lace Panel (n×8+1) | Buffer each side |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 78 | 9×8+1 = **73** | (78-73)÷2 = 2.5 → 2 and 3 (uneven, acceptable) |
| S | 86 | 10×8+1 = **81** | (86-81)÷2 = 2.5 → 2 and 3 |
| M | 92 | 11×8+1 = **89** | (92-89)÷2 = 1.5 → 1 and 2 |
| L | 100 | 12×8+1 = **97** | (100-97)÷2 = 1.5 → 1 and 2 |
| XL | 106 | 13×8+1 = **105** | (106-105)÷2 = 0.5 → 0 and 1 |
| 2X | 112 | 13×8+1 = **105** | (112-105)÷2 = 3.5 → 3 and 4 |
| 3X | 118 | 14×8+1 = **113** | (118-113)÷2 = 2.5 → 2 and 3 |
| 4X | 124 | 15×8+1 = **121** | (124-121)÷2 = 1.5 → 1 and 2 |
| 5X | 132 | 16×8+1 = **129** | (132-129)÷2 = 1.5 → 1 and 2 |

> ✅ Buffer sts are worked in stockinette. Small asymmetry (0.5 st rounds to uneven buffers) is acceptable and invisible in finished fabric. ✓

> **Tip:** Place locking markers on each side of the back lace panel to keep your place easily.

#### Body RS Row (with pattern established):

**RS Row:** Sl1 wyib (selvedge), k across Left Front, p[underarm rev st sts], k[buffer] sts, work Vine & Leaf Row [n] across [lace panel sts], k[buffer] sts, p[underarm rev st sts], k across Right Front, k1 (selvedge).

**WS Row:** Sl1 wyif, p across all sts to last st, k1 (selvedge). *(Purl all sts on WS — both stockinette fronts AND back. The reverse stockinette underarm shows correctly on RS.)*

> **Note on WS:** To maintain the RS appearance of the reverse stockinette seam columns, work those underarm sts as knit on WS rows. Adjust the WS row as: "Sl1 wyif, [p to underarm sts, k underarm sts, p to underarm sts on other side], p to last st, k1."

Continue in pattern until body measures **15 (15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.5) in / 38 (38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42, 42) cm** from underarm separation.

---

#### Waist Shaping (Optional — recommended for sizes S and above)

For a more tailored silhouette, work waist shaping as follows:

**Waist Shaping is worked at 4 points:** 1 st inside each front selvedge and 1 st inside each underarm seam column. This creates 4 decrease points and 4 increase points (symmetrical on each side).

**Begin waist shaping** when body measures **4 in (10 cm)** from underarm.

**Decrease Round:**
RS row: [Sl1, k to 3 sts before underarm marker, k2tog, k1, p underarm sts, k1, ssk] × 2 working front and back sections, k to last st, k1. *(4 sts decreased)*

Work decrease row every **10th RS row** twice more = **3 decrease rows total = 12 sts removed.**

Work even for 6 RS rows (approx. 1 in / 2.5 cm) after last decrease.

**Increase Round:**
RS row: [Sl1, k to 2 sts before underarm marker, m1R, k1, p underarm sts, k1, m1L] × 2, k to last st, k1. *(4 sts increased)*

Work increase row every **8th RS row** three times = **3 increase rows total = 12 sts added** — restoring original stitch count.

---

#### Hem Border

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.

Work 2×2 Rib (adjusting to nearest multiple of 4) for **2 in / 5 cm**.

Work Picot Bind-Off.

---

### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Return held sleeve sts to US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or short circular. Pick up and knit the underarm cast-on stitches, pm for BOR.

**Sleeve sts (held + underarm pick-up):**

| Size | Held | Underarm Pick-up | Total Sleeve Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 54 | 6 | **60** |
| S | 58 | 6 | **64** |
| M | 62 | 10 | **72** |
| L | 66 | 14 | **80** |
| XL | 70 | 20 | **90** |
| 2X | 72 | 26 | **98** |
| 3X | 76 | 30 | **106** |
| 4X | 78 | 36 | **114** |
| 5X | 82 | 38 | **120** |

> ✅ Underarm pick-up = underarm CO × 2 (pick up from each side of cast-on) — these sts are the CO sts plus their mirrored pair at the body join. Exact pick-up: pick up 1 st for each CO st at underarm = [3, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 18, 19] × 2 = [6, 6, 10, 14, 20, 26, 30, 36, 38]. ✓

#### Establish Sleeve Lace

Work Vine & Leaf Lace centered on sleeve sts, with stockinette worked on each side (over the non-lace sts). The BOR marker sits at the underarm.

**Sleeve Lace Panel:**

| Size | Total Sleeve Sts | Lace Panel | Buffer each side |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 60 | 7×8+1=57 | 1.5 → 1 and 2 |
| S | 64 | 7×8+1=57 | 3.5 → 3 and 4 |
| M | 72 | 8×8+1=65 | 3.5 → 3 and 4 |
| L | 80 | 9×8+1=73 | 3.5 → 3 and 4 |
| XL | 90 | 11×8+1=89 | 0.5 → 0 and 1 |
| 2X | 98 | 12×8+1=97 | 0.5 → 0 and 1 |
| 3X | 106 | 13×8+1=105 | 0.5 → 0 and 1 |
| 4X | 114 | 14×8+1=113 | 0.5 → 0 and 1 |
| 5X | 120 | 14×8+1=113 | 3.5 → 3 and 4 |

Work Vine & Leaf Lace in the round on sleeves:

> **In-the-Round Lace Adjustment:** When working in the round, all WS (even) rows become RS. Purl Row 2 of the pattern becomes a knit row. Since the pattern is RS lace rows with WS purl rows, in the round: **odd rounds = lace row as written; even rounds = knit all sts.**

#### Sleeve Decrease

Shape the sleeve by decreasing at the underarm "seam" every 8th (8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 6th) round:

**Decrease Round:** K2, ssk, work in pattern to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *(2 sts decreased)*

**Target Wrist Sts:** 40 (40, 44, 44, 48, 52, 52, 56, 56) sts.

**Number of Decrease Rounds needed:**

| Size | Start Sts | Target | Decreases | Every X rounds |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 60 | 40 | 10 dec rounds | Every 8th round |
| S | 64 | 40 | 12 dec rounds | Every 8th round |
| M | 72 | 44 | 14 dec rounds | Every 8th round |
| L | 80 | 44 | 18 dec rounds | Every 8th round |
| XL | 90 | 48 | 21 dec rounds | Every 6th round |
| 2X | 98 | 52 | 23 dec rounds | Every 6th round |
| 3X | 106 | 52 | 27 dec rounds | Every 6th round |
| 4X | 114 | 56 | 29 dec rounds | Every 6th round |
| 5X | 120 | 56 | 32 dec rounds | Every 6th round |

> ✅ **Sleeve Length Check (XS):** 10 decrease rounds × 8 rows = 80 rows ÷ 22 rows per 4 in (lace) = ~14.5 in. Plus cuff = 2.5 in. Total = 17 in ≈ target 17.5 in. ✓ (Small remaining rows worked even before cuff.)

> ✅ **Sleeve Length Check (XL):** 21 decrease rounds × 6 rows = 126 rows ÷ 22 rows per 4 in = ~22.9 in. This exceeds the target. **Adjust:** Work the first 10 decrease rounds every 10th round (100 rows / 4.4 in per 4 in ≈ 18.2 in worth of rows — this won't fit either. **Revised approach for XL–5X:** Work even for the first 2 in (11 rounds), then begin decreases every 7th round to spread them across the sleeve length more naturally. This is standard practice for larger sleeve circumferences.

**Revised Sleeve Decrease Intervals for XL–5X:**
- Work even for 2 in / 5 cm after underarm pick-up.
- Then work decrease round every **7 (7, 7, 7, 6)** rounds for XL (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
- After all decrease rounds, work even until sleeve measures **15 (15, 15.5, 16, 16.5) in / 38 (38, 39.5, 40.5, 42) cm** from underarm (before cuff).

#### Cuff

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.
Work 2×2 Rib for **2.5 in / 6.5 cm**.
Work Picot Bind-Off.

---

### SECTION 7: ASYMMETRIC RUFFLE LAPEL (THE SURPRISE ELEMENT!)

The signature feature of this cardigan: a single oversized lace ruffle lapel cascades from the right shoulder, sweeping diagonally across the right front, creating the illusion of a climbing vine of roses falling from one shoulder. It is worked flat, picked up along the right front edge, and attached invisibly to the WS of the left front at the hem.

> **Design Note:** The ruffle is deliberately asymmetric — it lives only on the right front. When worn, the ruffle lies across the chest and can be pinned, tied, or left to cascade freely. It is shown in the same yarn as the main cardigan.

#### Pick Up Stitches

After completing the body and before working button bands, use US 7 / 4.5 mm straight needles:

Pick up and knit sts along the right front edge from hem to neckline at a rate of **3 sts per 4 rows** (approximately):

| Size | Right Front Length | Pick-Up Count |
|---|---|---|
| XS | ~22 in | **84** sts |
| S | ~22.5 in | **87** sts |
| M | ~23 in | **90** sts |
| L | ~23.5 in | **93** sts |
| XL | ~24 in | **96** sts |
| 2X | ~24.5 in | **99** sts |
| 3X | ~25 in | **102** sts |
| 4X | ~25.5 in | **105** sts |
| 5X | ~26 in | **108** sts |

> All pick-up counts are multiples of 3 (for ruffle increase math). Round to nearest multiple of 3. ✓

#### Ruffle Increase Section

*WS of ruffle faces WS of garment when attached. Pick up with RS facing.*

**Row 1 (WS of ruffle / faces body):** Sl1, purl to end.

**Rows 2–13 (Ruffle Increase Section):**

**Row 2 (RS):** Sl1, [k1, m1L] to last st, k1. *(Sts approximately doubled per increase section; work over 2 rows)*

Actually, work the ruffle increase more gradually:

**Row 2 (RS):** Sl1, *k1, yo; rep from * to last st, k1. *(sts = (original × 2) – 1)*

For XS: 84 sts → Row 2 produces 84 + 83 yo's = 167 sts.

**Row 3 (WS):** Sl1, p to last st, k1.

**Rows 4–5:** Rep Rows 2–3 once more. (XS: 167 → 333 sts after Row 4.)

> **Technical Note:** Two yo rows doubles the stitch count twice. XS: 84 → 167 → 333 sts. This creates generous ruffle fullness. For larger sizes the ruffled fabric is even more dramatic.

After Row 5, stitches are:
XS: ~333 | S: ~345 | M: ~358 | L: ~370 | XL: ~382 | 2X: ~394 | 3X: ~406 | 4X: ~418 | 5X: ~430

#### Ruffle Lace Body

Continue on these enlarged stitch counts working the following Ruffle Lace stitch pattern:

**Ruffle Lace Pattern (worked flat):**

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1, *yo, k3, sl1-k2tog-psso, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. *(net zero per repeat — 9 st repeat + 1)*

> **Adjust for stitch count:** Work as many complete 9-st repeats as possible within the stitch count; work any remaining sts in stockinette at each end.

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1, p to last st, k1.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1, *k1, yo, k2, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2.

**Row 5 (RS):** Sl1, *k2, yo, k1, sl1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.

**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2.

**Row 7 (RS):** Sl1, *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k4; rep from * to last st, k1. *(Note: this row has 2 yo's and 1 double decrease = net zero)*

**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2.

Rep Rows 1–8 three times total (24 rows of lace after the increase section = approximately 4–4.5 in / 10–11.5 cm of lace ruffle depth).

**Bind Off:** Using US 7 needles, work Picot Bind-Off across all ruffle sts.

#### Ruffle Attachment

Lay the cardigan flat, RS up. Position the ruffle along the right front, WS of ruffle to WS of cardigan. The ruffle naturally fans outward toward the center of the body.

Using a tapestry needle and yarn, tack the pick-up edge of the ruffle invisibly to the right front selvedge using mattress stitch. The ruffle is NOT tacked at the lower edge — it hangs freely and cascades across the front.

> **Optional:** Attach a small decorative brooch or pin at the shoulder to hold the top of the ruffle in place when worn.

---

### SECTION 8: BUTTON BAND AND NECKBAND

#### Left Front Button Band (Buttonholes)

Using US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, with RS facing, pick up and knit along the **left front edge** at 3 sts per 4 rows.

Work 5 rows in 1×1 rib (k1, p1).

On Row 3 (RS, a center row), work buttonholes:

**Buttonhole Row:** *Rib to buttonhole position, yo, k2tog; rep from * for each buttonhole.

**Buttonhole Spacing:** Place buttonholes evenly spaced. First buttonhole: 0.5 in from lower hem. Last buttonhole: 0.5 in from neckline. Remaining buttonholes spaced evenly between.

Number of buttons and buttonholes:
**5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7)**

Work 2 more rows in rib after buttonhole row. BO in rib.

#### Right Front Button Band

Work as for left front, omitting buttonholes. (Note: the ruffle lapel is already attached to the right front — pick up sts carefully around the ruffle attachment points, maintaining the band width of approximately 8 sts / 1.5 in.)

#### Neckband

With US 7 / 4.5 mm needle and RS facing, pick up and knit around the neck opening:

- Along right front neck CO edge
- Across back neck CO sts
- Along left front neck CO edge

Rate: 1 st per CO st at back neck; 1 st per 2 rows along sides.

Work 6 rows in 1×1 rib. Work Picot Bind-Off.

---

### SECTION 9: FINISHING

1. **Block the garment** aggressively — wet block, pin to measurements, allow to dry completely. Lace will not show its full beauty until blocked.
2. Weave in all ends using a tapestry needle.
3. Gently steam the button bands and neckband to even them out (do not press the lace directly — steam from above only).
4. Sew buttons to right front band opposite buttonholes, using sewing needle and matching thread. Use a thread shank for buttons through thick fabric.
5. Attach ruffle brooch or decorative pin if desired.

---

## BLOCKING GUIDE

| Size | Finished Bust | Back Length | Sleeve Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 36.6 in / 93 cm | 25 in / 63.5 cm | 17.5 in / 44.5 cm |
| S | 40.2 in / 102 cm | 25.5 in / 65 cm | 17.5 in / 44.5 cm |
| M | 43.9 in / 111.5 cm | 26 in / 66 cm | 18 in / 45.5 cm |
| L | 48.5 in / 123 cm | 26.5 in / 67 cm | 18 in / 45.5 cm |
| XL | 52.6 in / 133.5 cm | 27 in / 68.5 cm | 18 in / 45.5 cm |
| 2X | 56.7 in / 144 cm | 27.5 in / 70 cm | 18.5 in / 47 cm |
| 3X | 60.3 in / 153 cm | 28 in / 71 cm | 18.5 in / 47 cm |
| 4X | 64.5 in / 163.5 cm | 28.5 in / 72.5 cm | 18.5 in / 47 cm |
| 5X | 68.6 in / 174 cm | 29 in / 73.5 cm | 19 in / 48 cm |

---

## YARN SUBSTITUTION GUIDE

Look for a worsted weight yarn with these properties for best results:
- **Fiber:** Merino wool, wool/cotton, wool/bamboo, or superwash wool
- **Ply:** 3-ply or 4-ply tightly twisted (avoids splitting on yo's)
- **Feel:** Smooth enough to show lace clearly
- **Dye:** Semi-solid or tonal colorways enhance the lace definition; variegated yarns will obscure the pattern

**Suggested colors:** Deep rose, sage green, midnight navy, champagne, or classic ivory all look stunning in this lace pattern.

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Swatch both patterns separately and block before measuring.** The lace gauge differs meaningfully from stockinette.
2. **Use a lifeline** — thread a smooth waste yarn through all stitches every 8–10 rows while working the lace. If you make an error, you can rip back to the lifeline safely.
3. **Mark your RS** with a locking stitch marker on the first row — the selvedge slipped stitches can look similar on both sides until the lace emerges.
4. **Count every row of lace** with a row counter. The 8-row repeat is easy to lose track of.
5. **Raglan seam lines:** The 4 raglan seam sts (1 st each side of each raglan marker) are worked in stockinette throughout — never lace. This gives a clean line.
6. **The ruffle lapel can be omitted** for a more classic cardigan. The pattern is fully complete and wearable without it.
7. **Short-row back neck:** Don't skip this step — it prevents the back neck from pulling down and keeps the cardigan hanging level.

---

*Pattern designed for advanced knitters. Techniques used include: German Short Rows, lace knitting, top-down seamless construction, in-the-round sleeve knitting, Picot Bind-Off, and decorative ruffle construction. © Cascading Garden Cardigan — for personal use only.*

---