Children’s Top-Down Raglan Cardigan

A seamless, hand-knit worsted cardigan worked in one piece from the neck down. Four raglan lines grow the yoke; sleeves are placed on hold at underarm; the body continues to a ribbed hem. Sleeves are knit in the round from the held stitches. Ribbed button bands are picked up along the front edges.

Designed for everyday wear with 3–5" (7.5–12.5 cm) of positive ease so it layers over shirts and leaves growing room.

Skill level: Intermediate (raglan increases, short rows, picking up stitches, buttonholes, small-circumference knitting in the round).

Sizes

2 (4, 6, 8, 10) years

To fit chest: 21 (23, 25, 27, 28½)" / 53.5 (58.5, 63.5, 68.5, 72.5) cm

Choose the size closest to the child’s actual chest, not age. Sample instructions show Size 2 with larger sizes in parentheses. Circle your size before you begin.

Finished measurements (blocked, buttoned)

• Chest circumference: 24 (26½, 28¾, 32, 33½)" / 61 (67, 73, 81.5, 85) cm
• Back length (neckband top to hem): 14¼ (16¼, 18¼, 20½, 22½)" / 36 (41.5, 46.5, 52, 57) cm
• Yoke depth (base of neckband to underarm, back): 5 (5¾, 6¼, 7, 7½)" / 12.5 (14.5, 16, 18, 19) cm
• Body length (underarm to hem): 8 (9½, 11, 12½, 14)" / 20.5 (24, 28, 32, 35.5) cm
• Upper arm circumference: 8 (8¾, 9½, 10½, 11¼)" / 20.5 (22, 24, 26.5, 28.5) cm
• Sleeve length (underarm to cuff edge): 8 (9½, 11, 12½, 14)" / 20.5 (24, 28, 32, 35.5) cm
• Cuff circumference: 5½ (6, 6½, 7¼, 7½)" / 14 (15, 16.5, 18.5, 19) cm
• Back neck width: 4 (4½, 4½, 4¾, 5¼)" / 10 (11.5, 11.5, 12, 13.5) cm

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (CYC 4), preferably superwash wool or a washable wool blend.

Yardage: 350 (450, 550, 700, 850) yd / 320 (410, 500, 640, 780) m

Skeins (200 yd / 183 m per 100 g): 2 (3, 3, 4, 5) skeins — buy an extra skein if your gauge is slightly looser or you lengthen the body.

Suggested yarns: Cascade 220 Superwash, Berroco Ultra Wool, Knit Picks Swish Worsted, or any worsted that matches gauge.

Needles

• US 7 / 4.5 mm circular, 24" (60 cm) and 32" (80 cm), or size needed to obtain gauge
• US 6 / 4 mm circular, 24" (60 cm), for ribbing (one size smaller than gauge needle)
• Same sizes in DPNs, a short circular, or a long circular for magic loop, for sleeves

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (one distinct for the beginning of sleeve rounds)
• Waste yarn or extra cables for holding sleeve stitches
• Tapestry needle
• 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) buttons, ⅝" (16 mm)
• Blocking mats and pins

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked.

Gauge is critical for fit. A 1-stitch difference per 4" changes chest circumference by about 1¼" (3 cm) at these sizes.

Gauge swatch

With larger needle, CO 28 sts. Work in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS) for 5" (12.5 cm). Bind off. Wash and block the swatch the same way you will treat the cardigan. Measure 20 sts and 28 rows in the center. If you have too many stitches in 4", switch to a larger needle; if too few, switch to a smaller needle. Recheck after changing needles.

Notes

• Cardigan is worked flat through the yoke and body, then in the round for the sleeves.
• The first and last stitch of every row are knitted (garter selvedge) so the front edges stay firm and are easy to pick up from.
• M1R (make 1 right): with left needle, lift the strand between stitches from back to front; knit it through the front loop. Right-leaning.
• M1L (make 1 left): with left needle, lift the strand between stitches from front to back; knit it through the back loop. Left-leaning.
• Stitch counts are listed as 2 (4, 6, 8, 10).
• Traditional girls’ placement puts buttonholes on the Right Front (as worn). Reverse the bands for a boys’ closure.
• Safety: Sew buttons with extra passes of yarn and a knot on the WS. A detached button is a choking hazard, especially in size 2.

Abbreviations (US)

BO bind off; BOR beginning of round; CO cast on; k knit; k2tog knit 2 together; M1L make 1 left; M1R make 1 right; p purl; pm place marker; rep repeat; rnd(s) round(s); RS right side; slm slip marker; ssk slip, slip, knit; st(s) stitch(es); St st stockinette stitch; w&t wrap and turn; WS wrong side; yo yarn over.

Pattern

Neckband

With smaller needle and long-tail cast-on, CO 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. Rib row 2 (WS): K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

The edges are knit every row (garter selvedge); the interior is 1×1 rib. Repeat Rib rows 1–2 until neckband measures 1" (2.5 cm), ending after a WS row. (About 8 rows.)

Change to larger needle.

Setup

Setup row (RS): K1 (selvedge), k 7 (8, 8, 9, 10) (Left Front), pm, k 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) (Left Sleeve), pm, k 20 (22, 22, 24, 26) (Back), pm, k 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) (Right Sleeve), pm, k 7 (8, 8, 9, 10), k1 (Right Front + selvedge).

Counts between selvedges: Left Front 8 (9, 9, 10, 11), sleeve 8 (8, 10, 10, 10), back 20 (22, 22, 24, 26), sleeve 8 (8, 10, 10, 10), Right Front 8 (9, 9, 10, 11). Total 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) ✓.

Markers sit at the four raglan lines, numbered M1–M4 as you meet them on a RS row (Left Front | M1 | Left Sleeve | M2 | Back | M3 | Right Sleeve | M4 | Right Front).

Short-row back neck

These short rows lift the back neck about ¾" (2 cm) so the cardigan sits at the back of the neck instead of sliding off the shoulders. Work wraps loosely.

Short row 1 (WS): K1, purl to M2, slm, p2 (2 sts into Left Sleeve), w&t.

Short row 2 (RS): Knit to M3, slm, k2 (2 sts into Right Sleeve), w&t.

Short row 3 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. (Turn is 4 sts into Left Sleeve.)

Short row 4 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. (Turn is 4 sts into Right Sleeve.)

Short row 5 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. (Turn is 6 sts into Left Sleeve.)

Short row 6 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before wrapped st, w&t. (Turn is 6 sts into Right Sleeve.)

Next row (WS): K1, purl to last st, working each wrap together with its stitch as you meet it, k1.

Sleeve starts are 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts, so the deepest wrap (6 sts in) stays inside the sleeve on every size ✓.

Yoke — full raglan increases

Work the fronts, sleeves, and back all increasing.

Raglan Inc row (RS): K1, *knit to marker, M1R, slm, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, knit to last st, k1. 8 sts increased.

WS row: K1, purl to last st, k1. (On the first WS row, work any remaining wraps together with their stitches.)

Repeat Raglan Inc row and WS row 12 (14, 14, 16, 18) more times — 13 (15, 15, 17, 19) Raglan Inc rows total.

Stitches after this section:

• Left/Right Front: 21 (24, 24, 27, 30) sts each
  8+13=21 (9+15=24, 9+15=24, 10+17=27, 11+19=30) ✓
• Each sleeve: 34 (38, 40, 44, 48) sts
  8+26=34 (8+30=38, 10+30=40, 10+34=44, 10+38=48) ✓
• Back: 46 (52, 52, 58, 64) sts
  20+26=46 (22+30=52, 22+30=52, 24+34=58, 26+38=64) ✓
• Total: 156 (176, 180, 214, 236) sts
  52+13×8=156 (56+15×8=176, 60+15×8=180, 64+17×8=200 — wait: 64+136=200; 10-yr: 68+19×8=68+152=220).

Recount size 8: 64 + 17×8 = 64+136 = 200. Size 10: 68+152 = 220.

Fronts 27+27 + sleeves 44+44 + back 58 = 54+88+58 = 200 ✓
Fronts 30+30 + sleeves 48+48 + back 64 = 60+96+64 = 220 ✓
Size 2 total 21+34+46+34+21 = 156 ✓
Size 4: 24+38+52+38+24 = 176 ✓
Size 6: 24+40+52+40+24 = 180 ✓

Yoke — body-only increases

Sleeves are now at upper-arm width. Increase only at the body sides of M1 and M4, and both sides of the back (M2 and M3). Do not increase inside the sleeves.

Body Inc row (RS): K1, knit to M1, M1R, slm, knit Left Sleeve, slm, M1L, knit to M3, M1R, slm, knit Right Sleeve, slm, M1L, knit to last st, k1. 4 sts increased (each front +1, back +2).

WS row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Repeat Body Inc row and WS row 4 (4, 6, 7, 6) more times — 5 (5, 7, 8, 7) Body Inc rows total.

Stitches at end of yoke:

• Left/Right Front: 26 (29, 31, 35, 37) each
  21+5=26 (24+5=29, 24+7=31, 27+8=35, 30+7=37) ✓
• Each sleeve (unchanged): 34 (38, 40, 44, 48)
• Back: 56 (62, 66, 74, 78)
  46+10=56 (52+10=62, 52+14=66, 58+16=74, 64+14=78) ✓
• Total: 176 (196, 208, 232, 248)
  156+5×4=176 (176+20=196, 180+28=208, 200+32=232, 220+28=248) ✓
  Check: 26+34+56+34+26=176; 29+38+62+38+29=196; 31+40+66+40+31=208; 35+44+74+44+35=232; 37+48+78+48+37=248 ✓

Yoke row count (increase rows only): 36 (40, 44, 50, 52) rows = 5.1 (5.7, 6.3, 7.1, 7.4)" at 7 rows/inch, matching the schematic.

Divide for body and sleeves

Divide row (RS): K1, knit 25 (28, 30, 34, 36) (to M1 — this completes the Left Front 26 (29, 31, 35, 37) sts), remove M1, place next 34 (38, 40, 44, 48) Left Sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove M2, cable CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) underarm sts, knit 56 (62, 66, 74, 78) Back sts, remove M3, place next 34 (38, 40, 44, 48) Right Sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove M4, cable CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) underarm sts, knit remaining 26 (29, 31, 35, 37) Right Front sts.

Body on the needle: 120 (132, 144, 160, 168) sts.

26+6+56+6+26=120 (29+6+62+6+29=132, 31+8+66+8+31=144, 35+8+74+8+35=160, 37+8+78+8+37=168) ✓
Chest: 120÷5=24" (132÷5=26.4", 144÷5=28.8", 160÷5=32", 168÷5=33.6") ✓

WS: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Body

Continue in stockinette with garter selvedges:

RS: Knit.
WS: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Work even until body measures 6½ (8, 9½, 11, 12½)" / 16.5 (20.5, 24, 28, 32) cm from the underarm divide, ending after a WS row.

Change to smaller needle.

Hem rib (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Hem rib (WS): K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Repeat these 2 rows until rib measures 1½" (4 cm). Bind off in pattern, keeping the edge elastic (use a larger needle to bind off if needed).

Body from underarm, including hem: 8 (9½, 11, 12½, 14)" / 20.5 (24, 28, 32, 35.5) cm ✓.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

Place held 34 (38, 40, 44, 48) sleeve sts on larger DPNs (or magic loop). Beginning at the center of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, knit the held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) sts from the rest of the underarm. Pm for BOR at the underarm center.

40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts.
34+6=40 (38+6=44, 40+8=48, 44+8=52, 48+8=56) ✓

If a hole appears at either underarm corner, pick up 1 extra stitch there and decrease it on the next round (k2tog or ssk) so the count returns to 40 (44, 48, 52, 56).

Knit 7 rounds even (about 1" / 2.5 cm).

Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work a Dec rnd every 6 (7, 7, 8, 8)th round 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) times total — that is, the first Dec rnd plus 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) more.

Stitches remaining: 28 (30, 32, 36, 38)
40−12=28 (44−14=30, 48−16=32, 52−16=36, 56−18=38) ✓

Knit even until sleeve measures 6½ (8, 9½, 11, 12½)" / 16.5 (20.5, 24, 28, 32) cm from underarm.

Change to smaller needles.

Cuff: *K1, p1; rep from * around for 1½" (4 cm). Bind off in rib.

Sleeve length including cuff: 8 (9½, 11, 12½, 14)" / 20.5 (24, 28, 32, 35.5) cm ✓.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Button bands

Pick up at a rate of about 5 sts per 1" (2.5 cm), or 3 sts for every 4 rows. Counts below match the designed front-edge length of 14¼ (16¼, 18¼, 20½, 22½)" at gauge. Adjust by 2 sts if needed so you have an odd number (1×1 rib will then start and end with a knit on the RS).

Right Front band (buttonholes — girls’ placement)

With smaller needle and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem, pick up and knit 71 (81, 91, 103, 113) sts along the Right Front edge to the top of the neckband.

Row 1 (WS): K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st? Wait — keep selvedge + 1×1:

Row 2 (RS): K2, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Work 1 more WS row as Row 1 (3 rows of rib completed).

Buttonhole row (RS): Maintaining rib, work 5 (5, 4, 6, 5) sts, [yo, k2tog, work 13 (15, 14, 16, 15) sts in rib] 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times, yo, k2tog, work remaining 4 (6, 5, 5, 4) sts.

Checks:
2 yrs: 5 + 4×(2+13) + 2 + 4 = 5+60+2+4 = 71, 5 buttonholes ✓
4 yrs: 5 + 4×(2+15) + 2 + 6 = 5+68+2+6 = 81, 5 buttonholes ✓
6 yrs: 4 + 5×(2+14) + 2 + 5 = 4+80+2+5 = 91, 6 buttonholes ✓
8 yrs: 6 + 5×(2+16) + 2 + 5 = 6+90+2+5 = 103, 6 buttonholes ✓
10 yrs: 5 + 6×(2+15) + 2 + 4 = 5+102+2+4 = 113, 7 buttonholes ✓

On the next WS row, purl each yo so it forms an open hole, keeping the rest in rib.

Work 3 more rows in rib (band is 8 rows / about 1–1¼" / 2.5–3 cm). Bind off in rib.

Left Front band (buttons)

With smaller needle and RS facing, beginning at the top of the Left Front neckband, pick up and knit 71 (81, 91, 103, 113) sts along the Left Front edge to the hem.

Work 8 rows of 1×1 rib with garter selvedges, same as the Right Front but with no buttonholes. Bind off in rib.

For a boys’ cardigan, put the buttonholes on the Left Front band instead.

Finishing

Weave in all ends, using sleeve underarm tails to close any remaining corner gaps.

Block the cardigan to the finished measurements. Pin the fronts so they overlap by the width of one band (about 1–1¼" / 2.5–3 cm). Let dry completely.

Sew buttons to the Left Front band (girls’ placement) directly opposite the buttonholes. Use doubled yarn, pass through each button at least four times, and take a small shank wrap under the button so the band sits flat. Knot securely on the WS.

Schematic (text)

                 neckband 1"
            |← back neck 4–5¼" →|
           /    raglan lines      \
          /                        \
         /     yoke 5–7½"           \
        /____________________________\
        |   underarm CO 6–8 sts      |
        |                            |     sleeve 8–14"
        |     body 8–14"             |     upper arm 8–11¼"
        |                            |     cuff 5½–7½"
        |____________________________|
              chest 24–33½" buttoned

Stitch-count summary