Worsted Top-Down Raglan Cardigan

Seamless · Intermediate · 5 Sizes

A classic crew-neck cardigan worked in one piece from the neck down, with raglan shaping, long sleeves, ribbed hem and cuffs, and picked-up button bands.

Construction

Cast on at the neck, place 4 raglan markers, and increase every RS row at all 4 raglan lines (8 stitches). Additional body-only increases are worked on some WS rows so the back and fronts reach bust width without oversizing the sleeves. At underarm depth, sleeve stitches are placed on waste yarn, underarm stitches are cast on, and the body is worked flat to the hem. Sleeves are worked in the round from the held stitches. Button bands are picked up along the front edges; a neckband is picked up around the neck.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) To fit bust 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm with 2–4" / 5–10 cm positive ease.

Instructions are written S (M, L, XL, 2XL). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Choose the size closest to your bust plus 2–4" / 5–10 cm.

Finished Measurements

Bust (buttoned, bands overlapping): 38¼ (41¾, 46¼, 49¾, 54¼)" / 97 (106, 117.5, 126.5, 138) cm Yoke depth (neck to underarm, along raglan): 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm Back length (neck to hem): 22½ (23½, 24½, 25½, 26½)" / 57 (59.5, 62, 65, 67.5) cm Upper arm: 12¾ (14¼, 15½, 17, 19)" / 32.5 (36, 39.5, 43, 48.5) cm Wrist: 8 (9, 9, 9¾, 9¾)" / 20.5 (23, 23, 25, 25) cm Sleeve length (underarm to cuff edge): 18 (18½, 19, 19, 19½)" / 45.5 (47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5) cm

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (CYC 4) 1090 (1240, 1420, 1580, 1760) yd / 1000 (1135, 1300, 1445, 1610) m Shown conceptually in a smooth wool or wool-blend worsted (approx. 220 yd / 200 m per 100 g): 5 (6, 7, 8, 8) skeins. Always compare your swatch to the gauge below; yardage is an estimate.

Needles

• US 8 / 5 mm circular, 32–40" / 80–100 cm, for body
• US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or a long circular for magic-loop sleeves
• US 7 / 4.5 mm circular, 32–40" / 80–100 cm, for hem, cuffs, and bands
• US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or magic loop for cuffs

Use the needle size you need to obtain gauge. Ribbing is worked one size smaller than the body.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (plus 1 unique beginning-of-round marker for sleeves)
• Waste yarn or extra cables for holding sleeves
• Tapestry needle
• 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons, ¾" / 19 mm

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked.

Gauge is critical for fit. A difference of 1 stitch per 4" changes bust circumference by about 2".

Gauge Swatch

With larger needle, CO 26 sts. Work in St st (knit RS, purl WS) for 32 rows. Bind off. Wash and block the swatch the same way you will finish the cardigan. Count stitches and rows in the center 4" / 10 cm. If you have more than 18 sts in 4", go up a needle size. If you have fewer, go down a needle size. Do not skip blocking; worsted wool often blooms.

Abbreviations (US)

BO — bind off BOR — beginning of round CO — cast on k — knit k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) M1L — make 1 left: insert left needle under the strand between stitches from front to back; knit through the back loop M1P — make 1 purl: insert left needle under the strand between stitches from back to front; purl through the front loop M1R — make 1 right: insert left needle under the strand between stitches from back to front; knit through the front loop p — purl pm — place marker RS — right side sm — slip marker ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) st(s) — stitch(es) St st — stockinette stitch WS — wrong side

Notes

• Body is worked flat; sleeves are worked in the round.
• Right Front is the wearer’s right front. RS rows begin at the Right Front edge.
• Maintain 4 raglan markers until the divide.
• Buttonholes are written for a women’s cardigan (holes on the Right Front as worn). Reverse the bands for a men’s cardigan.
• Length is easy to customize: add or subtract even rows before the hem or cuff ribbing.

Pattern

Neck Cast-On and Setup

With larger circular needle, using a long-tail or knitted cast-on, CO 60 (68, 72, 80, 84) sts.

Setup Row (WS): Purl 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) Right Front sts, pm, purl 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) Right Sleeve sts, pm, purl 28 (28, 32, 32, 36) Back sts, pm, purl 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) Left Sleeve sts, pm, purl 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) Left Front sts.

Stitch map: RF 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) | Sleeve 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) | Back 28 (28, 32, 32, 36) | Sleeve 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) | LF 6 (8, 8, 10, 10). Total 60 (68, 72, 80, 84) ✓

Raglan Increase Rows (used throughout the yoke)

RS Raglan Increase Row (inc 8): *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; repeat from * at all 4 markers, knit to end. 8 sts increased — 1 on each front, 2 on the back, 2 on each sleeve.

WS Body Increase Row (inc 4): Purl to 1 st before the first marker, M1P, p1, sm, purl to the second marker, sm, p1, M1P, purl to 1 st before the third marker, M1P, p1, sm, purl to the fourth marker, sm, p1, M1P, purl to end. 4 sts increased — 1 on each front, 2 on the back; sleeves unchanged.

WS Even Row: Purl all sts, slipping markers.

Yoke — Phase 1 (raglan + body)

Work [RS Raglan Increase Row, WS Body Increase Row] 9 (10, 11, 12, 11) times.

Increases this phase: +12 sts × 9 (10, 11, 12, 11) = +108 (120, 132, 144, 132) 168 (188, 204, 224, 216) sts ✓ [60 + 108 = 168; 68 + 120 = 188; 72 + 132 = 204; 80 + 144 = 224; 84 + 132 = 216 ✓]

Yoke — Phase 2 (raglan only)

Work [RS Raglan Increase Row, WS Even Row] 11 (11, 12, 12, 17) times.

Increases this phase: +8 sts × 11 (11, 12, 12, 17) = +88 (88, 96, 96, 136) 256 (276, 300, 320, 352) sts ✓ [168 + 88 = 256; 188 + 88 = 276; 204 + 96 = 300; 224 + 96 = 320; 216 + 136 = 352 ✓]

Distribution:

• Right Front 35 (39, 42, 46, 49)
• Right Sleeve 50 (54, 58, 62, 70)
• Back 86 (90, 100, 104, 114)
• Left Sleeve 50 (54, 58, 62, 70)
• Left Front 35 (39, 42, 46, 49) [35+50+86+50+35 = 256; 39+54+90+54+39 = 276; 42+58+100+58+42 = 300; 46+62+104+62+46 = 320; 49+70+114+70+49 = 352 ✓]

Yoke — Phase 3 (even to depth)

Continue in St st with no increases (knit RS, purl WS), slipping markers, until the yoke measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm from the cast-on edge, measured along the back raglan line, ending after a WS row.

If you reach the inch measurement before Phase 2 is complete, finish the remaining Phase 2 increase rows first — stitch count for fit matters more than a half-inch of depth. If the yoke is already deep enough after Phase 2, skip Phase 3.

Divide Body and Sleeves

Next Row (RS): Knit 35 (39, 42, 46, 49) Right Front sts, place the next 50 (54, 58, 62, 70) Right Sleeve sts on waste yarn, removing markers, using a knitted or backward-loop cast-on CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts, knit 86 (90, 100, 104, 114) Back sts, place the next 50 (54, 58, 62, 70) Left Sleeve sts on waste yarn, removing markers, CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) underarm sts, knit 35 (39, 42, 46, 49) Left Front sts.

Body: 35 + 8 + 86 + 8 + 35 = 172 (39+10+90+10+39 = 188; 42+12+100+12+42 = 208; 46+14+104+14+46 = 224; 49+16+114+16+49 = 244) sts ✓

You now have 172 (188, 208, 224, 244) body sts. Underarm gaps may look open; they are closed when the sleeves are picked up.

Body

Work even in St st (knit RS, purl WS) until the body measures 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14)" / 30.5 (32, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm from the underarm cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Hem: Change to smaller circular needle. Rib Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end. Rib Row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end (knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you). Repeat Rib Rows 1–2 until ribbing measures 2" / 5 cm, ending after a WS row. BO in pattern.

Total body length from underarm: 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)" / 35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5) cm.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

With larger DPNs or magic loop, RS facing, return 50 (54, 58, 62, 70) held sleeve sts to the needle. Beginning at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts along the first half of the underarm cast-on, pick up 1 extra st in the gap before the held sts, knit the held sleeve sts, pick up 1 extra st in the gap, pick up and knit 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts along the remaining underarm. Place BOR marker at the center of the underarm.

Picked up: 50 (54, 58, 62, 70) + 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) + 2 corner sts = 60 (66, 72, 78, 88) sts.

Round 1: Knit, decreasing the 2 extra corner sts with k2tog (one at each underarm/sleeve join). 58 (64, 70, 76, 86) sts ✓

Knit even in the round until the sleeve measures 1 (1, 1, ½, ½)" / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 1.5, 1.5) cm from the underarm.

Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before BOR, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work a Decrease Round every 8th (7th, 6th, 5th, 4th) round 11 (12, 15, 16, 21) times. 58 − 22 = 36; 64 − 24 = 40; 70 − 30 = 40; 76 − 32 = 44; 86 − 42 = 44 sts ✓

Work even until the sleeve measures 16 (16½, 17, 17, 17½)" / 40.5 (42, 43, 43, 44.5) cm from the underarm.

Cuff: Change to smaller needles. Work k1, p1 rib in the round for 2" / 5 cm. BO in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Button Bands

Pickup rate: 3 stitches for every 4 rows along each front edge. Too many stitches makes a flared band; too few draws the front short. Aim for about 101 (107, 111, 115, 119) sts; adjust by 1 st if needed so the total is odd (k1 at each edge of k1, p1 rib).

Right Front Band (buttonholes; women’s placement)

With smaller circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem edge, pick up and knit 101 (107, 111, 115, 119) sts evenly to the Right Front neck edge.

Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1; repeat from * to last st, p1. Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1. Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4 — Buttonhole Row (RS): Work in established rib, placing 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttonholes evenly along the band. Make the first hole 3 sts from the hem edge and the last hole 3 sts from the neck edge; space the remaining holes evenly between them. Buttonhole: Work to hole placement, yo, k2tog (if the next st would have been a knit) or yo, p2tog (if the next st would have been a purl), then continue in rib.

Rows 5–7: Work in established rib (on the WS after the buttonhole row, purl or knit each yo through the back loop if you want a firmer hole). BO in pattern on Row 8 (RS). Band measures about 1¼" / 3 cm.

Left Front Band

With smaller circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the Left Front neck edge, pick up and knit 101 (107, 111, 115, 119) sts evenly to the Left Front hem (same count as the Right Front).

Work 8 rows of k1, p1 rib as for the Right Front, with no buttonholes. BO in pattern.

Neckband

With smaller circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the top of the Right Front band, pick up and knit 5 sts across the top of the Right band, pick up and knit 1 st per cast-on stitch around the neck 60 (68, 72, 80, 84), pick up and knit 5 sts across the top of the Left Front band. 70 (78, 82, 90, 94) sts ✓

If the total is odd, pick up 1 extra st at the center back. Work k1, p1 rib, beginning and ending with k1 on the RS, for 1" / 2.5 cm (about 6 rows). BO in pattern, keeping the bind-off firm enough that the neck sits against the body but not so tight it chokes.

Finishing

Weave in all ends, using underarm tails to close any remaining gaps.

Block the cardigan to the finished measurements, pinning the fronts straight and the raglan lines to equal length. Do not overstretch the ribbing.

Sew buttons to the Left Front band opposite the buttonholes.

Schematic (blocked)

• Bust: 38¼ (41¾, 46¼, 49¾, 54¼)"
• Yoke depth: 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)"
• Length, back neck to hem: 22½ (23½, 24½, 25½, 26½)"
• Upper arm: 12¾ (14¼, 15½, 17, 19)"
• Sleeve length: 18 (18½, 19, 19, 19½)"

Customization Notes

• Length: Add even St st rows before hem rib for a longer line; subtract for cropped.
• Sleeves: For three-quarter length, stop sleeve St st at 11–12" / 28–30.5 cm from the underarm, then work the 2" cuff.
• Ease: This pattern already includes 2–4" of positive ease. For a closer fit, choose the smaller size if your bust is at the bottom of a range.
• Buttons: Keep holes at least ¾" from each end of the band so the hem and neckband are not distorted.