Classic DK Sleeveless Sweater

A hip-length scoop-neck tank worked flat in pieces on straight needles. Stockinette body, 2×2 ribbed hem, neckband, and armhole bands. Intermediate: armhole and neck shaping, stepped shoulders, picking up stitches, and seaming.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL)

To fit bust: 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48)" / 76–81.5 (86.5–91.5, 96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122) cm

Shown in size M. Choose a size with 2–4" / 5–10 cm of positive ease.

Finished Measurements

Bust: 35 (37¾, 42¼, 46½, 51)" / 89 (96, 107.5, 118, 129.5) cm

Length (hem to shoulder): 22¼ (23¼, 24¼, 25¼, 26¼)" / 56.5 (59, 61.5, 64, 67) cm

Armhole depth: 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm

Hem to underarm: 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)" / 35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5) cm

Cross-back (after armhole shaping): 14¼ (15, 16¾, 18¼, 19¾)" / 36 (38, 42.5, 46.5, 50) cm

Each shoulder: 4¼ (4½, 5, 5½, 6)" / 11 (11.5, 13, 14, 15) cm

Yarn

DK weight (CYC 3), approximately 700 (825, 950, 1100, 1250) yd / 640 (755, 870, 1005, 1145) m

About 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) skeins at 245 yd / 224 m per 100 g

Fiber notes: Cotton or cotton-linen for a breathable summer top. Wool or wool-acrylic for a layering piece with more bounce.

Suggested yarns: Knit Picks CotLin, Cascade Ultra Pima, Berroco Modern Cotton DK, or any DK that matches gauge.

Needles

• US 5 / 3.75 mm straight needles (ribbing)
• US 6 / 4 mm straight needles (body)

A 16" / 40 cm circular needle in US 5 / 3.75 mm is optional for the neckband if you prefer working in the round.

Notions

• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers (optional)
• Blocking mats and pins

Gauge

22 sts and 30 rows = 4" / 10 cm in Stockinette stitch on US 6 / 4 mm needles, blocked.

Take time to check gauge. Change needle size if needed so that 22 sts = 4" / 10 cm.

Abbreviations (US)

Notes

• Pattern is written for XS with S, M, L, XL in parentheses. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
• Sweater is worked flat on straight needles in two pieces, then seamed.
• Selvedge: work the first and last stitch of every row in pattern (knit on RS, purl on WS). Seam with mattress stitch, taking 1 st from each edge.
• When working 2×2 rib, always knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you.
• Armhole decreases use a 1-st selvedge: k1, ssk at the start of RS rows; k2tog, k1 at the end.
• Neckband is worked flat after seaming one shoulder only (classic straight-needle method). Armhole bands are worked flat before side seams.
• Block both pieces before seaming.

Stitch Patterns

2×2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts) Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1–2.

Stockinette Stitch RS: Knit. WS: Purl.

BACK

With smaller straight needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm), CO 96 (104, 116, 128, 140) sts.

Work 2×2 Rib until piece measures 2" / 5 cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to larger straight needles (US 6 / 4 mm).

Work in St st until piece measures 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)" / 35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes

Row 1 (RS): BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) sts, knit to end. 92 (99, 111, 122, 133) sts.

Row 2 (WS): BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) sts, purl to end. 88 (94, 106, 116, 126) sts. (96 − 4 − 4 = 88; 104 − 5 − 5 = 94; 116 − 5 − 5 = 106; 128 − 6 − 6 = 116; 140 − 7 − 7 = 126 ✓)

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) more times — 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) decrease rows total. 78 (82, 92, 100, 108) sts. (88 − 10 = 78; 94 − 12 = 82; 106 − 14 = 92; 116 − 16 = 100; 126 − 18 = 108 ✓)

Work even in St st until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Neck and Shoulders

Next row (RS): K 24 (25, 28, 31, 33) and place these sts on a holder for Right Back Shoulder, BO center 30 (32, 36, 38, 42) sts, knit to end. 24 (25, 28, 31, 33) sts rem for Left Back Shoulder. (24 + 30 + 24 = 78; 25 + 32 + 25 = 82; 28 + 36 + 28 = 92; 31 + 38 + 31 = 100; 33 + 42 + 33 = 108 ✓)

Left Back Shoulder (sts still on the needle — this is the wearer’s left):

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. 16 (17, 19, 21, 22) sts.

Row 3 (WS): Purl.

Row 4 (RS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Row 5 (WS): Purl.

Row 6 (RS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts. (8 + 8 + 8 = 24; 8 + 8 + 9 = 25; 9 + 9 + 10 = 28; 10 + 10 + 11 = 31; 11 + 11 + 11 = 33 ✓)

Right Back Shoulder:

With WS facing, join yarn at the neck edge of the held Right Back Shoulder sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): Knit.

Row 3 (WS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. 16 (17, 19, 21, 22) sts.

Row 4 (RS): Knit.

Row 5 (WS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Row 6 (RS): Knit.

Row 7 (WS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

FRONT

Work as for Back until armhole shaping is complete and 78 (82, 92, 100, 108) sts rem, then work even in St st until armhole measures 2½ (2¾, 3, 3¼, 3½)" / 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8.5, 9) cm, ending with a WS row.

(Armhole BO + decreases finish at about 1.6–2.7" depending on size, so every size has even rows before the neck split.)

Shape Scoop Neck

Split row (RS): K 32 (33, 37, 40, 43), place center 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts on a holder, knit to end. 32 (33, 37, 40, 43) sts each side. (32 + 14 + 32 = 78; 33 + 16 + 33 = 82; 37 + 18 + 37 = 92; 40 + 20 + 40 = 100; 43 + 22 + 43 = 108 ✓)

Work each side separately. The sts still on the needle are the Left Front (wearer’s left). Place Right Front sts on a holder if you prefer, or leave them resting and return to them later.

Left Front (wearer’s left)

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Neck decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end. (1 st decreased at neck edge)

Row 3 (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) more times — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) neck decreases total. 24 (25, 28, 31, 33) sts. (32 − 8 = 24; 33 − 8 = 25; 37 − 9 = 28; 40 − 9 = 31; 43 − 10 = 33 ✓)

Work even in St st until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm, ending with a RS row (so the next row is WS, ready to bind off at the armhole edge).

Left Front Shoulder

Row 1 (WS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. 16 (17, 19, 21, 22) sts.

Row 2 (RS): Knit.

Row 3 (WS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Row 4 (RS): Knit.

Row 5 (WS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Right Front (wearer’s right)

With WS facing, join yarn at the neck edge of the Right Front sts.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Neck decrease row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased at neck edge)

Row 3 (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) more times — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) neck decreases total. 24 (25, 28, 31, 33) sts.

Work even in St st until armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm, ending with a WS row.

Right Front Shoulder

Row 1 (RS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. 16 (17, 19, 21, 22) sts.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3 (RS): BO 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Row 4 (WS): Purl.

Row 5 (RS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 11, 11) sts.

Shoulder stitch counts match the Back. (24, 25, 28, 31, 33 sts ✓)

FINISHING

Weave in ends that will be caught in seams. Block Front and Back to the finished measurements, pinning armholes and neckline to a smooth curve. Let dry completely.

Seam Right Shoulder

With RS together (or using mattress stitch with RS facing you), seam the Right shoulder (wearer’s right) only. Leave the Left shoulder open.

Neckband (worked flat on straight needles)

With smaller straight needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm) and RS facing, beginning at the open Left shoulder edge:

• Pick up and knit 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts evenly down the Left Front neck slope
• Knit across 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) held Front neck sts
• Pick up and knit 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts evenly up the Right Front neck slope
• Pick up and knit 30 (32, 34, 38, 42) sts across Back neck

100 (108, 116, 128, 136) sts. (All counts are multiples of 4 for 2×2 rib ✓. If you are 1–2 sts off, inc or dec evenly on the first rib row to reach the given number.)

Work 2×2 Rib for 1" / 2.5 cm (about 8 rows), beginning WS with k2, p2 so the rib aligns, ending with a WS row.

BO loosely in rib.

Seam Left Shoulder and Neckband

Seam the Left shoulder, continuing the seam through the short ends of the neckband so the band sits as a continuous ring.

Optional circular method: If you prefer, seam both shoulders first, then pick up the same stitch counts on a 16" / 40 cm circular needle and work 2×2 Rib in the round for 1" / 2.5 cm. BO in rib.

Armhole Bands (worked flat, before side seams)

With smaller straight needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm) and RS facing, beginning at the Front underarm BO edge of one armhole:

Pick up and knit 92 (100, 108, 116, 120) sts evenly around the armhole U (Front armhole edge, over the shoulder seam, down the Back armhole edge, including the underarm BO sts at each end). (Multiples of 4 ✓.)

Work 2×2 Rib for ¾" / 2 cm (about 6 rows), ending with a WS row.

BO loosely in rib.

Rep for the second armhole.

Side Seams

With mattress stitch, seam each side from hem to underarm, continuing through the short ends of the armhole bands. Match rib rows at the hem.

Final

Weave in remaining ends. Lightly steam or re-block seams and bands if needed, taking care not to flatten the rib.

Schematic (blocked measurements)

Bust (all around):  35 (37¾, 42¼, 46½, 51)"
Hem to underarm:    14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)"
Armhole depth:       7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)"
Total length:       22¼ (23¼, 24¼, 25¼, 26¼)"
Each shoulder:       4¼ (4½, 5, 5½, 6)"
Back neck width:     5½ (5¾, 6½, 7, 7¾)"

Fit and Modification Notes

• Closer fit: Go down one size (0–2" ease).
• More relaxed: Go up one size (4–6" ease).
• Cropped: Work hem to underarm as 10 (10½, 11, 11½, 12)" instead of 14–16".
• Tunic: Add 3–4" to the hem-to-underarm length.
• Side slits: Leave the bottom 2½–3" of each side seam unsewn; add a couple of extra rows of rib at the hem if you want the slits to sit flat.
• Waist shaping (optional): After 2" of St st, dec 1 st each side every 8th row 3 times, work 2" even, then inc 1 st each side every 8th row 3 times. Stitch count returns to the original before the underarm.