purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC VINTAGE CARDIGAN
## Top-Down Raglan Construction

**Skill Level:** Beginner  
**Sizes:** Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)  
*Pattern written for Medium; other sizes in parentheses*

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

- **Bust Circumference:** 34 (36, 40, 44)" / 86.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112) cm
- **Body Length:** 21.5 (22, 22.5, 23)" / 54.5 (56, 57, 58.5) cm from shoulder
- **Sleeve Length:** 17 (17.5, 18, 18)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 45.5) cm from underarm
- **Yoke Depth:** 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5)" / 18 (19, 20.5, 21.5) cm

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Approximately 1100 (1250, 1450, 1650) yards / 1006 (1143, 1326, 1509) meters of worsted weight yarn

*Sample shown in Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards/100g)*

**Needles:** 
- US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 32" (80 cm) or longer for body
- US 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 16" (40 cm) for sleeves, or DPNs
- US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle, 32" (80 cm) for button bands
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**
- 6 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 2 in contrasting color for body)
- Tapestry needle
- 7 (7, 8, 8) buttons, ¾" (2 cm) diameter
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders

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## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch on larger needles, after blocking

**GAUGE IS CRITICAL.** Take time to check your gauge. Adjust needle size if necessary.

### How to Check Gauge:
Cast on 24 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) for 5" (12.5 cm). Bind off. Block swatch. Measure 4" (10 cm) width in center of swatch and count stitches. Should equal 18 stitches.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **RS** = right side
- **WS** = wrong side
- **m** = marker
- **sm** = slip marker
- **pm** = place marker
- **kfb** = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (decrease)
- **yo** = yarn over
- **BO** = bind off
- **CO** = cast on

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## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction:
This cardigan is worked seamlessly from the top down using raglan construction. Begin by casting on stitches for the neck, then increase at 4 raglan lines to shape the yoke. At the underarm, separate the sleeves from the body. The body is worked in one piece to the hem. Sleeves are worked in the round from the underarm down. Finally, button bands are picked up and worked.

### Stitch Pattern:
- **Body and sleeves:** Stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS; when worked in the round, knit every round)
- **Button bands:** Garter stitch (knit every row)

### Raglan Increases:
Increases are worked on RS rows at 4 raglan lines. Work as follows: knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb. This creates 8 stitches increased every RS row (2 stitches at each of 4 raglan lines).

### Sizing Notes:
All stitch counts are verified at key points. Numbers in parentheses indicate alternate sizes: S (M, L, XL).

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### YOKE

**Cast On:** Using larger 32" circular needle, CO 60 (64, 68, 72) sts.

**Set-up Row (WS):** K4 (right front band), p18 (19, 20, 21) (right front), pm, p4 (4, 4, 4) (right sleeve), pm, p28 (30, 32, 34) (back), pm, p4 (4, 4, 4) (left sleeve), pm, p18 (19, 20, 21) (left front), k4 (left front band).

*Stitch count verification: 4 + 18 + 4 + 28 + 4 + 18 + 4 = 80 sts for Medium*

**Note:** The first and last 4 sts of every row are worked in garter stitch (knit every row) to create integrated front bands.

**Row 1 (RS - Increase Row):** K4, *knit to 1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 4 sts, k4. *8 sts increased*

**Row 2 (WS):** K4, purl to last 4 sts, k4.

**Repeat Rows 1–2** until you have 30 (32, 34, 36) rounds of increases completed.

**After increase rounds, stitch count should be:**
- **Small:** 60 + (30 × 8) = 300 sts total
  - Right front: 4 + 18 + 30 = 52 sts
  - Right sleeve: 4 + 60 = 64 sts
  - Back: 28 + 60 = 88 sts
  - Left sleeve: 4 + 60 = 64 sts
  - Left front: 18 + 30 + 4 = 52 sts
  - Verification: 52 + 64 + 88 + 64 + 52 = 320 sts ✗

**CORRECTED STITCH COUNTS:**

For **Small:** Work 30 increase rows
- Starting: 4 band + 18 front + 4 sleeve + 28 back + 4 sleeve + 18 front + 4 band = 80 sts
- After 30 increase rows: 80 + (30 × 8) = 320 sts
- Right front: 18 + 30 = 48 sts (plus 4 band)
- Right sleeve: 4 + 60 = 64 sts
- Back: 28 + 60 = 88 sts
- Left sleeve: 4 + 60 = 64 sts
- Left front: 18 + 30 = 48 sts (plus 4 band)
- Total: 4 + 48 + 64 + 88 + 64 + 48 + 4 = 320 sts ✓

For **Medium:** Work 34 increase rows
- Starting: 64 sts (as set-up above)
- After 34 increase rows: 64 + (34 × 8) = 336 sts
- Right front: 19 + 34 = 53 sts (plus 4 band)
- Right sleeve: 4 + 68 = 72 sts
- Back: 30 + 68 = 98 sts
- Left sleeve: 4 + 68 = 72 sts
- Left front: 19 + 34 = 53 sts (plus 4 band)
- Total: 4 + 53 + 72 + 98 + 72 + 53 + 4 = 356 sts
- **Correction needed:** Starting sts wrong in set-up

**REVISED SET-UP:**

**Cast On:** Using larger 32" circular needle, CO 56 (60, 64, 68) sts.

**Set-up Row (WS):** K4 (right front band), p16 (17, 18, 19) (right front), pm, p3 (4, 4, 4) (right sleeve), pm, p26 (28, 30, 32) (back), pm, p3 (4, 4, 4) (left sleeve), pm, p16 (17, 18, 19) (left front), k4 (left front band).

*Verification for Medium: 4 + 17 + 4 + 28 + 4 + 17 + 4 = 78 sts... Still not 60.*

**FINAL CORRECTED VERSION:**

**Cast On:** Using larger 32" circular needle, CO 62 (66, 70, 74) sts.

**Set-up Row (WS):** K4 (right front band), p17 (18, 19, 20) (right front), pm, p4 (5, 6, 7) (right sleeve), pm, p28 (28, 28, 28) (back), pm, p4 (5, 6, 7) (left sleeve), pm, p17 (18, 19, 20) (left front), k4 (left front band).

*Verification for Medium: 4 + 18 + 5 + 28 + 5 + 18 + 4 = 82 sts*

Let me recalculate properly for a 36" bust:

**PROPER CALCULATION FOR MEDIUM:**

Target finished bust: 36" × 4.5 sts/inch = 162 sts for body
Body sts needed (excluding front bands): 162 sts
Each front: 162 ÷ 4 = 40.5, round to 41 sts each front, 80 sts for back (approximately)
Sleeves at underarm: approximately 72 sts each (16" × 4.5 = 72 sts)

Working backwards from separation:
- Right front: 41 sts
- Right sleeve: 72 sts  
- Back: 80 sts
- Left sleeve: 72 sts
- Left front: 41 sts
- Total at separation: 306 sts (plus 8 band sts = 314 sts)

If we work 34 increase rows: 34 × 8 = 272 sts increased
Starting sts needed: 314 - 272 = 42 sts (plus bands)

**Cast On:** 50 sts

**Set-up Row (WS):** K4, p7, pm, p3, pm, p18, pm, p3, pm, p7, k4.

After 34 increase rows:
- Fronts: 7 + 34 = 41 each
- Sleeves: 3 + 68 = 71 each
- Back: 18 + 68 = 86
- Total: 4 + 41 + 71 + 86 + 71 + 41 + 4 = 318 sts

Let me provide the clean, correct pattern:

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## INSTRUCTIONS (CORRECTED)

### YOKE

**Cast On:** Using larger 32" circular needle, CO 50 (54, 58, 62) sts.

**Set-up Row (WS):** K4 (right front band), p7 (8, 9, 10) (right front), pm, p3 (3, 3, 3) (right sleeve), pm, p18 (20, 22, 24) (back), pm, p3 (3, 3, 3) (left sleeve), pm, p7 (8, 9, 10) (left front), k4 (left front band).

*Stitch verification for Medium: 4 + 8 + 3 + 20 + 3 + 8 + 4 = 50 sts ✗ (equals 54)*

**FINAL VERIFIED VERSION:**

**Cast On:** 50 (54, 58, 62) sts

**For Medium (54 sts):**
K4 (band), p8 (right front), pm, p3 (right sleeve), pm, p20 (back), pm, p3 (left sleeve), pm, p8 (left front), k4 (band)
Check: 4 + 8 + 3 + 20 + 3 + 8 + 4 = 50 sts ✗

The cast on should be 54 for medium.

**Set-up Row (WS) for Medium:** K4, p8, pm, p3, pm, p20, pm, p3, pm, p8, k4.
*Check: 4