purlJam

<pattern>

# Cloud Nine Kids Sweater
### A Cozy Mohair Pullover for Little Ones

A simple, seamless top-down raglan sweater worked in soft mohair blend yarn. The lightweight warmth and fluffy texture make this perfect for layering or cool weather play. Beginner-friendly construction with straightforward stockinette and ribbing.

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## SIZES
2T (4, 6, 8, 10)

**Finished Chest Circumference:** 23 (25, 26, 28, 30)" / 58.5 (63.5, 66, 71, 76) cm
*Designed to be worn with 2-3" / 5-7.5 cm positive ease.*

**To fit chest:** 20-21 (22-23, 23-24, 25-26, 27-28)" / 51-53.5 (56-58.5, 58.5-61, 63.5-66, 68.5-71) cm

Sample shown in size 6.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 375 (450, 525, 600, 700) yards / 340 (410, 480, 550, 640) meters of worsted weight mohair blend yarn.

*Recommended: Choose a mohair BLEND (mohair/wool, mohair/acrylic, or mohair/silk blends) rather than 100% mohair. Blends are more durable, easier to care for, and better suited for children's active wear. Look for machine-washable options labeled as superwash or easy-care.*

Sample uses Lang Yarns Mohair Luxe (77% mohair, 23% silk; 164 yds / 25g) in colorway Stone, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins.

**Needles:** 
- US 8 (5 mm) 16" circular needle (for neckband and sleeves)
- US 8 (5 mm) 24" or 32" circular needle (for yoke and body)
- US 7 (4.5 mm) 16" circular needle (for ribbing)

Or size needed to obtain gauge.

**Notions:**
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for beginning of round)
- 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn for sleeves
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

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## GAUGE

**18 stitches and 26 rounds = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette stitch in the round with larger needles, after blocking.

**Gauge is critical for proper fit.** Take time to check your gauge with a proper swatch (at least 5" × 5"), worked in the round if possible. Mohair can bloom significantly when blocked, so be sure to block your swatch as you will the finished sweater.

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## PATTERN NOTES

**Construction:** This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down using the raglan method. You'll begin at the neckline, work increases at four raglan lines to create the yoke, separate for body and sleeves, then work each section in the round to the hem or cuff.

**Mohair Tips:** 
- Mohair can be challenging to see individual stitches. Use stitch markers liberally and work in good lighting.
- If you need to tink back (unknit), go slowly—mohair fibers can catch on each other.
- Mohair blooms beautifully when blocked, becoming softer and fluffier. Your fabric may look thin before blocking—trust the process!
- For durability with active children, consider holding mohair together with a thin fingering-weight wool or working with a mohair blend that includes nylon or acrylic.

**Modifications:**
- **Length:** Easy to customize! After separating for body, try the sweater on your child and work to desired length before ribbing.
- **Sleeves:** Can be worked longer or shorter as needed. The decrease rate is flexible.

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## ABBREVIATIONS
- k: knit
- p: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- m: marker
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- M1L: make 1 left (insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, knit through back loop)
- M1R: make 1 right (insert left needle from back to front under strand between stitches, knit through front loop)
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

---

## PATTERN BEGINS

### YOKE

**Cast On & Setup**

With larger 16" circular needle, cast on 56 (60, 60, 64, 64) sts using long-tail method.

Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. The marker indicates beginning of round (back raglan line).

**Setup Round:** K1 (back), pm, k10 (11, 11, 12, 12) (sleeve), pm, k34 (36, 36, 38, 38) (front), pm, k10 (11, 11, 12, 12) (sleeve), pm, k1 (back).

*Check: You should have 4 markers placed, with 1 st at beginning/end (back raglan line), 2 sets of 10 (11, 11, 12, 12) sleeve sts, and 34 (36, 36, 38, 38) front sts.*

**Math check for Setup Round:**
- 2T: 1 + 10 + 34 + 10 + 1 = 56 sts ✓
- 4: 1 + 11 + 36 + 11 + 1 = 60 sts ✓
- 6: 1 + 11 + 36 + 11 + 1 = 60 sts ✓
- 8: 1 + 12 + 38 + 12 + 1 = 64 sts ✓
- 10: 1 + 12 + 38 + 12 + 1 = 64 sts ✓

**Raglan Increases**

*Note: Switch to longer circular needle when stitches become crowded.*

**Increase Round:** *K1, M1R, k to 1 st before m, M1L, k1, sm; repeat from * 3 more times. (8 sts increased)

**Plain Round:** Knit all sts, slipping markers.

Repeat these 2 rounds **11 (13, 14, 15, 17) more times.**

Total raglan increase rounds worked: 12 (14, 15, 16, 18)

**After raglan increases, stitch count:**
- Starting sts: 56 (60, 60, 64, 64)
- Increases: 12 (14, 15, 16, 18) rounds × 8 sts = 96 (112, 120, 128, 144) sts added
- Total on needles: 152 (172, 180, 192, 208) sts

**Stitch distribution after increases:**
- Back: 25 (29, 31, 33, 37) sts [1 + 12×2 (1 + 14×2, 1 + 15×2, 1 + 16×2, 1 + 18×2)]
- Sleeve: 34 (39, 41, 44, 48) sts each [10 + 12×2 (11 + 14×2, 11 + 15×2, 12 + 16×2, 12 + 18×2)]
- Front: 58 (64, 66, 70, 74) sts [34 + 12×2 (36 + 14×2, 36 + 15×2, 38 + 16×2, 38 + 18×2)]

**Math verification:**
- 2T: 25 + 34 + 58 + 34 + 1 = 152 sts ✓
- 4: 29 + 39 + 64 + 39 + 1 = 172 sts ✓
- 6: 31 + 41 + 66 + 41 + 1 = 180 sts ✓
- 8: 33 + 44 + 70 + 44 + 1 = 192 sts ✓
- 10: 37 + 48 + 74 + 48 + 1 = 208 sts ✓

**Yoke depth check:** 12 (14, 15, 16, 18) increase rounds = 24 (28, 30, 32, 36) rounds total. At 26 rounds per 4", this equals approximately 3.7 (4.3, 4.6, 4.9, 5.5)" - appropriate for these sizes before adding underarm stitches.

Continue working in stockinette (knit all rounds) until yoke measures **5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7)"** from cast-on edge, or desired armhole depth.

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### SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

**Separation Round:**
K25 (29, 31, 33, 37) back sts, remove marker, place next 34 (39, 41, 44, 48) sleeve sts on holder, remove marker, use backward loop method to cast on 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) underarm sts, pm for new side, cast on 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) more underarm sts, k58 (64, 66, 70, 74) front sts, remove marker, place next 34 (39, 41, 44, 48) sleeve sts on holder, remove marker, cast on 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) underarm sts, pm for new side, cast on 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) more underarm sts, knit to beginning of round marker (back raglan line becomes new beginning of round).

**Body stitch count:**
- Back: 25 (29, 31, 33, 37) sts
- Underarm: 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts
- Front: 58 (64, 66, 70, 74) sts
- Underarm: 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts
- **Total: 99 (113, 117, 127, 135) sts**

**Wait, let me recalculate for proper chest circumference:**

Target finished chest: 23 (25, 26, 28, 30)" = 103.5 (112.5, 117, 126, 135) sts at gauge

My calculation of 99 (113, 117, 127, 135) is close but size 2T needs adjustment.

**Revised body stitch count check:**
- 2T: Need ~104 sts. Have 25 + 8 + 58 + 8 = 99 sts. Need to increase 5 sts.
- 4: Need ~113 sts. Have 113 sts ✓
- 6: Need ~117 sts. Have 117 sts ✓
- 8: Need ~126 sts. Have 127 sts ✓ (close enough)
- 10: Need ~135 sts. Have 135 sts ✓

**Next Round (for size 2T only):** Evenly increase 5 sts around body. (104 sts)

**For all other sizes:** Knit 1 round even.

**Final body stitch count: 104 (113, 117, 127, 135) sts**

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### BODY

Continue working in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds) until body measures **7.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)"** from underarm, or 1.5" less than desired length.

**Change to smaller 24" circular needle.**

**Ribbing:**
**Round 1:** *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 for **1.5"** / 4 cm.

Bind off all sts loosely in pattern.

**Total body length from underarm:** 9 (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5)" / 23 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29) cm

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### SLEEVES

**Setup**

Transfer 34 (39, 41, 44, 48) held sleeve sts to larger 16" circular needle (or DPNs if you prefer).

**Join yarn at center of underarm.**

Pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts from underarm cast-on, knit across 34 (39, 41, 44, 48) sleeve sts, pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts