purlJam

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# FETCH & COZY DOG SWEATER
### A Top-Down Raglan Pullover for Small Dogs
**Beginner · Worsted Weight · Seamless Construction**

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This cheerful, cozy sweater is worked top-down in the round using a raglan construction — the same technique used for baby pullovers, adapted for your small dog's unique shape. Because dogs don't have a closed belly like a human torso, the body is worked as a back panel that wraps over the spine and down both sides, leaving the belly open. Front leg openings are worked like armholes. The result is a snuggly, professional-looking sweater your pup will actually be comfortable wearing.

> **A note on sizing dogs:** Dogs vary widely in shape even at the same weight. Always measure your dog and compare to the finished measurements chart. When in doubt, size up — ease is your friend!

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## SIZES

| Size | Neck Circumference | Chest Circumference | Back Length (neck to tail) | Front Leg Length |
|------|-------------------|--------------------|-----------------------------|-----------------|
| **XS** | 8" (20 cm) | 12" (30 cm) | 8" (20 cm) | 3" (7.5 cm) |
| **S** | 10" (25 cm) | 14" (35 cm) | 10" (25 cm) | 3.5" (9 cm) |
| **M** | 12" (30 cm) | 16" (40 cm) | 12" (30 cm) | 4" (10 cm) |

**Finished Measurements (with approximately 2" / 5 cm of ease at chest):**

| Size | Finished Chest | Finished Back Length |
|------|---------------|----------------------|
| **XS** | ~14" (35 cm) | 8" (20 cm) |
| **S** | ~16" (40 cm) | 10" (25 cm) |
| **M** | ~18" (45 cm) | 12" (30 cm) |

> **How to measure your dog:**
> - **Neck:** Measure loosely around the base of the neck where a collar sits. Add 1–2" for comfort.
> - **Chest:** Measure around the widest part of the chest, just behind the front legs.
> - **Back length:** Measure from the base of the neck (where the collar sits) along the spine to the base of the tail.

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Approximately 150 (200, 275) yards / 137 (183, 252) meters of worsted weight yarn
  - *Recommended:* A soft, machine-washable worsted — superwash wool, acrylic, or a wool-acrylic blend. Dogs (and their owners!) need easy-care, durable fabric.
  - *Sample shown in:* Lion Brand Vanna's Choice or Cascade 220 Superwash
- **Needles:**
  - US 8 / 5 mm, 16" (40 cm) circular needle *(for body and yoke)*
  - US 8 / 5 mm, set of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (DPNs) *(for leg sleeves)*
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16" circular and DPNs *(for ribbing — optional but recommended for a neater edge)*
- **Notions:**
  - 4 stitch markers (use a unique color or style for the beginning-of-round marker)
  - 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn (for leg stitches)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors

---

## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rounds = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles**

> **Please check your gauge!** Even one stitch off per inch will change the finished size significantly over the width of a garment. Swatch generously, wash and block your swatch the way you'll care for the finished sweater, then measure.
>
> *If you have too many stitches per inch (fabric is tight):* Go up a needle size.
> *If you have too few stitches per inch (fabric is loose):* Go down a needle size.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **BOR** | Beginning of round |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **DPN(s)** | Double-pointed needle(s) |
| **k** | Knit |
| **k2tog** | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **kfb** | Knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase — makes 1 new stitch) |
| **m** | Marker |
| **p** | Purl |
| **pm** | Place marker |
| **rem** | Remain / remaining |
| **rep** | Repeat |
| **rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **RS** | Right side |
| **sl m** | Slip marker |
| **ssk** | Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **St st** | Stockinette stitch |

---

## STITCH GUIDE

**2×2 Ribbing (worked in the round):** *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

**Raglan Increase Round:**
*(k1, kfb, sl m, kfb, k to 1 st before next m, kfb, sl m, kfb)* × 2 — 8 stitches increased total (2 stitches increased at each of the 4 raglan lines).

---

## CONSTRUCTION NOTES

This sweater is worked **from the neck down**, in the round. Here is how the sections relate to your dog:

- **Neck ribbing:** Sits at the base of the collar
- **Yoke (raglan section):** Slopes over the shoulders
- **Front legs (worked like sleeves):** Slip down each front leg
- **Body:** Drapes over the back and wraps down the sides — the belly is left **open** (no fabric under the belly)
- **Body ribbing:** Lies at the hem/chest edge

> **Belly opening:** Unlike a human sweater, this pattern does **not** close into a full tube at the body. After separating the leg stitches, the body is worked back and forth (flat, in rows) OR worked in the round with a steek — instructions below use the simpler **flat/back-and-forth method** for beginners, producing a back panel with two side edges that hang down freely. If you prefer a snugger fit, you may seam the side edges partway down.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: NECK RIBBING

Using US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle (or US 8 if you don't have a 7), CO **36 (45, 54) stitches**.

> **Cast-on counts:** XS = 36 sts | S = 45 sts | M = 54 sts

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place a unique BOR marker.

**Rnd 1–8:** *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

> *Note for XS (36 sts) and M (54 sts):* 36 and 54 are both divisible by 4, so the 2×2 rib fits perfectly.
> *Note for S (45 sts):* 45 is not divisible by 4. Work k2, p2 across and end with k1 on the final stitch of the round. This creates a nearly invisible jog at the BOR. Alternatively, you may add or remove 1 stitch on the final ribbing round: for S, work the last ribbing round and kfb on the last stitch to bring the count to **46 sts**, then redistribute for yoke setup as described below.

After completing 8 rounds of ribbing (approximately 1.25" / 3 cm), switch to US 8 / 5 mm circular needle.

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE SETUP

You will now divide your neck stitches into four sections separated by markers:
- **Back** (the section that will lie along the dog's spine)
- **Front** (the section that will lie on the dog's chest — this piece will eventually hang freely)
- **Right sleeve** (right front leg)
- **Left sleeve** (left front leg)

**Setup Round — Place Markers:**

Knit the first stitch of the round, then distribute as follows:

| Section | XS (36 sts) | S (45 sts*) | M (54 sts) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 14 sts | 17 sts | 20 sts |
| Right sleeve | 4 sts | 5 sts | 6 sts |
| Front | 14 sts | 17 sts | 20 sts |
| Left sleeve | 4 sts | 5 sts | 6 sts |
| **Total** | **36** | **44** | **52** |

> *S size: If you increased to 46 sts at the end of ribbing, distribute as: Back 18, Right sleeve 5, Front 18, Left sleeve 5 = 46 sts. If you kept 45 sts, distribute Back 17, RS 5, Front 17, LS 5 = 44 sts — the 1 extra stitch can be placed on the back.*

**How to place markers:**

Starting at BOR:
1. K across Back sts, **pm** (raglan marker — call this M1)
2. K across Right Sleeve sts, **pm** (raglan marker — M2)
3. K across Front sts, **pm** (raglan marker — M3)
4. K across Left Sleeve sts — BOR marker is already here (this is M4, the 4th raglan line)

You now have **4 markers** dividing your work into 4 sections. The BOR marker also serves as raglan marker M4.

---

### SECTION 3: RAGLAN YOKE INCREASES

You will work the **Raglan Increase Round** alternating with plain knit rounds. Each Raglan Increase Round adds **8 stitches** (2 at each of the 4 raglan lines — one stitch on each side of each marker).

**Raglan Increase Round:**
*k to 1 st before m, kfb, sl m, kfb; repeat from * 3 more times, then k to end of round.

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you pass them.

**Work as follows:**
- **Round 1 (Increase Round):** Work Raglan Increase Round — 8 sts increased
- **Round 2 (Plain Round):** Knit all sts

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have worked the number of increase rounds specified for your size:

| Size | # of Increase Rounds | Total Sts After Increases |
|---|---|---|
| **XS** | 11 increase rounds | 36 + (11 × 8) = **124 sts** |
| **S** | 12 increase rounds | 44 + (12 × 8) = **140 sts** |
| **M** | 13 increase rounds | 52 + (13 × 8) = **156 sts** |

> **Yoke depth check:** After completing all increase rounds, your yoke (measured from the cast-on edge, not including the ribbing) should measure approximately:
> - XS: ~3.5" (9 cm)
> - S: ~4" (10 cm)
> - M: ~4.5" (11.5 cm)
>
> This is the approximate distance from the neck to the front leg opening on a small dog. If your yoke is shorter than these measurements, work additional Plain Rounds (without increasing) until you reach the desired depth. Do not work additional Increase Rounds — you have enough stitches.

**Stitch count breakdown after all increases:**

| Section | XS | S | M |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 14 + 22 = **36 sts** | 17 + 24 = **41 sts** | 20 + 26 = **46 sts** |
| Right Sleeve | 4 + 22 = **26 sts** | 5 + 24 = **29 sts** | 6 + 26 = **32 sts** |
| Front | 14 + 22 = **36 sts** | 17 + 24 = **41 sts** | 20 + 26 = **46 sts** |
| Left Sleeve | 4 + 22 = **26 sts** | 5 + 24 = **29 sts** | 6 + 26 = **32 sts** |
| **Total** | **124** | **140** | **156** |

> **Math check:** Back + RS + Front + LS = 36+26+36+26 = 124 ✅ | 41+29+41+29 = 140 ✅ | 46+32+46+32 = 156 ✅

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATE THE FRONT LEGS

You will now remove the sleeve (front leg) stitches from the needles and place them on holders, then cast on a small number of underarm stitches to bridge the gap. This creates the front leg openings.

**Separation Round:**

1. Knit across **Back** sts to M1.
2. Remove M1. Slip the next **Right Sleeve sts** (26, 29, 32 sts) onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Remove M2.
3. Using the backward-loop method, CO **4 sts** onto the right needle (these bridge the underarm gap).
4. Knit across **Front** sts to M3. Remove M3.
5. Slip the next **Left Sleeve sts** (26, 29, 32 sts) onto a second stitch holder or scrap yarn. Remove M4/BOR.
6. Using the backward-loop method, CO **4 sts** onto the right needle.
7. You are now back at what will be your new BOR. Place BOR marker.

**Body stitch count after separation:**

| Size | Back + 4 + Front + 4 | Total Body Sts |
|---|---|---|
| **XS** | 36 + 4 + 36 + 4 | **80 sts** |
| **S** | 41 + 4 + 41 + 4 | **90 sts** |
| **M** | 46 + 4 + 46 + 4 | **100 sts** |

> **Math check:** XS: 36+4+36+4 = 80 ✅ | S: 41+4+41+4 = 90 ✅ | M: 46+4+46+4 = 100 ✅
>
> **Finished chest circumference:** 80 sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = ~17.8" | 90 sts ÷ 4.5 = ~20" | 100 sts ÷ 4.5 = ~22.2"
> *(These are the full-circle measurements; since the belly is open, the actual chest wrap will be approximately half this — ~9", ~10", ~11" per side of the body panel. This is intentional for the belly-open construction.)*

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

> **Beginner's note — Working flat vs. in the round:**
> For a belly-open dog sweater, the simplest beginner approach is to now work **back and forth in rows** (flat), turning your work at the end of each row. This creates the back panel that sits on top of the dog with two free side edges. The "right side" rows are knitted; the "wrong side" rows are purled (this creates stockinette).
>
> Alternatively, if you prefer to keep working in the round, simply work the rounds as established — the resulting tube will be open at both ends and can be cut up the belly later, or left as a tube (some small dogs tolerate this with the right proportions).
>
> **These instructions are written for flat/back-and-forth.** Ignore the circular needle and work back and forth on it like a long straight needle.

**Body Setup:**

Turn your work so the Wrong Side faces you.

**Row 1 (WS):** Purl all 80 (90, 100) sts.
**Row 2 (RS):** Knit all 80 (90, 100) sts.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 (stockinette worked flat) until the body measures the following from the underarm cast-on:

| Size | Body Length (underarm to hem) | Total Back Length Goal |
|---|---|---|
| **XS** | ~5.5" (14 cm) | 8" total |
| **S** | ~6.5" (16.5 cm) | 10" total |
| **M** | ~7.5" (19 cm) | 12" total |

> Stop approximately 1.25" (3 cm) before your target length to allow for the hem ribbing.

---

### SECTION 6: HEM RIBBING

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles (or US 8 if preferred).

Working flat (back and forth):

**Ribbing Row (RS):** *k2, p2; repeat from * across. (If your stitch count isn't divisible by 4, adjust as needed: work k2, p2 across and work the last 0–3 stitches in pattern — k or p — as best fits.)
**Ribbing Row (WS):** Work stitches as they appear (knit the knit sts, purl the purl sts).

Repeat these two rows until ribbing measures approximately **1.25" (3 cm)**.

Bind off loosely in pattern (k2, p2 as established). The bind-off edge should be stretchy — if your bind-off is tight, use a needle one size larger.

---

### SECTION 7: FRONT LEGS (SLEEVES)

The front legs are worked in the round on DPNs, from the armhole opening down to a ribbed cuff.

**Set Up:**

Transfer the held stitches for one leg back onto DPNs. Distribute the stitches across 3 or 4 DPNs.

With RS facing and beginning at the center of the underarm cast-on sts, pick up and knit **2 sts** from the underarm cast-on, knit across the **26 (29, 32) held sts**, then pick up and knit **2 sts** from the remaining underarm cast-on sts.

**Total leg stitches:** 26+4 = **30 sts** (XS) | 29+4 = **33 sts** (S) | 32+4 = **36 sts** (M)

> For S (33 sts): 33 is an odd number for DPN distribution — split as 11/11/11 sts across 3 DPNs. This works fine; the slight asymmetry is invisible in the finished fabric.

Place BOR marker and join to work in the round.

**Leg Round 1–4:** Knit all sts (4 plain rounds).

**Decrease Round:** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Work Decrease Round then 3 plain rounds, repeating until leg reaches:

| Size | Leg Tube Length Before Cuff | Decrease Rounds | Final Leg Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| **XS** | ~1.75" (4.5 cm) | 2 decrease rounds | **26 sts** |
| **S** | ~2.25" (5.5 cm) | 2 decrease rounds | **29 sts** |
| **M** | ~2.75" (7 cm) | 2 decrease rounds | **32 sts** |

> *If the remaining stitch count after decreases is not divisible by 4 for ribbing, on the last plain round before ribbing, work a k2tog or kfb to adjust:*
> - XS: 26 sts → 28 sts (work kfb twice evenly spaced) for clean 2×2 rib
> - S: 29 sts → 28 sts (work k2tog once anywhere) for clean 2×2 rib
> - M: 32 sts → 32 sts ✅ (already divisible by 4)

**Leg Cuff Ribbing:**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs.

**All Rnds:** *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

Work ribbing until cuff measures **1" (2.5 cm)**.

Bind off loosely in pattern. Repeat Section 7 for the second front leg.

---

### FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle. Make sure the underarm join areas are tidy — if there are small holes at the corners of the leg openings, use the yarn tail to close them with a stitch or two.
2. **Block lightly:** Wet blocking or steam blocking (check your yarn's fiber content first — do not steam acrylic!) will even out the stitches and help the sweater hold its shape. Lay flat to dry.
3. **Fit check:** Before putting it on your dog for the first time, hold the sweater up and check that:
   - The neck opening is large enough to slip over the dog's head
   - The leg holes are large enough for the front legs to pass through comfortably
   - The body panel looks wide enough to drape over the back

> **Tip for dressing your dog:** Slip the head through the neck opening first, then guide each front leg through its respective leg opening. The body panel should rest along the spine with the ribbing pointing toward the tail.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
         ← 8 (9, 10)" →
    ___________________________
   |  NECK RIBBING             |  ↑ 1.25"
   |___________________________|  ↓
   |  \      YOKE         /    |  ↑ 3.5 (4, 4.5)"
   |   \________________/      |  ↓
   | ○                    ○    |  ← Leg openings
   |   BODY (back panel)       |  ↑ 5.5 (6.5, 7.5)"
   |                           |  (worked flat)
   |___________________________|  ↑ 1.25"
        HEM RIBBING               ↓

   LEGS (worked down from ○):
     ↓ 1.75 (2.25, 2.75)"  tube
     ↓ 1" cuff ribbing
```

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY

| Measurement | XS | S | M |
|---|---|---|---|
| Neck opening circumference | ~8" (20 cm) | ~10" (25 cm) | ~12" (30 cm) |
| Chest panel width (flat, one side) | ~8.9" (22 cm) | ~10" (25 cm) | ~11.1" (28 cm) |
| Total back length (neck to hem) | 8" (20 cm) | 10" (25 cm) | 12" (30 cm) |
| Front leg tube length | 2.75" (7 cm) | 3.25" (8.5 cm) | 3.75" (9.5 cm) |
| Leg cuff circumference | ~6.2" (16 cm) | ~6.2" (16 cm) | ~7.1" (18 cm) |

---

## YARN CARE

Choose a machine-washable yarn for a dog sweater — dogs get muddy! Look for:
- ✅ Machine washable / superwash wool
- ✅ Acrylic or acrylic blend
- ✅ Soft texture (avoid scratchy or felting wool)
- ✅ Medium durability (worsted weight holds up to regular wear)
- ❌ Avoid 100% natural (non-superwash) wool — it will felt in the wash
- ❌ Avoid delicate fibers like mohair — they can be a hazard if a dog chews the sweater

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## ABBREVIATIONS QUICK REFERENCE CARD

| kfb | knit into front and back — 1 st increased |
|---|---|
| k2tog | knit 2 together — 1 st decreased (leans right) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit — 1 st decreased (leans left) |
| pm | place marker |
| sl m | slip marker |
| BOR | beginning of round |

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Please do not sell or redistribute this pattern.*