purlJam

<pattern>

# COUTURE CROCHET CORSET TOP

A structured, elegant corset-style top featuring decorative shell stitch panels, integrated cup shaping, and back lacing for a custom fit. This advanced pattern creates a fully boned, wearable art piece suitable for special occasions. The corset is constructed in separate panels and assembled for professional couture finish.

**Skill Level:** Advanced

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight yarn (#4 Medium), approximately 800-1000 yards
- Recommended: mercerized cotton or cotton/acrylic blend for structure and comfort
- Sample shown in fingering weight held double for elegant drape

**Hook:**
- US Size H/8 (5.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
- US Size G/6 (4.0 mm) for edging

**Notions:**
- 8-10 spiral steel or synthetic boning pieces, 11" long, ¼" wide
- 1 package of ½" grosgrain ribbon for boning channels (4 yards)
- 3 yards of ⅜" satin ribbon for lacing
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers
- Sewing needle and thread to match yarn
- Measuring tape
- Blocking pins and foam board

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## SIZES

Finished bust measurements (with 2-4" negative ease recommended):
- **Small:** 28" (fits 30-32" bust)
- **Medium:** 30" (fits 32-34" bust)  *Pattern written for Medium*
- **Large:** 32" (fits 34-36" bust)
- **X-Large:** 34" (fits 36-38" bust)

Finished length from underbust to top edge: 12"

**Sizing Notes:**
- Numbers for Small, (Medium, Large, X-Large) 
- Take measurements wearing your preferred bra
- Corset should fit snugly with 2-4" negative ease for proper support
- Back lacing allows for adjustment of approximately 2-3"

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## GAUGE

**Gauge in Half Double Crochet (hdc):**
16 sts × 9 rows = 4" (10 cm) in hdc, blocked

**Gauge in Shell Pattern:**
2 shell repeats (14 sts) = 3.5" wide; 6 rows = 3" tall

**GAUGE IS CRITICAL** for proper fit. Take time to check your gauge and adjust hook size if needed. If you have more stitches per 4", use a larger hook. If you have fewer stitches, use a smaller hook.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- ch = chain
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- inc = increase (work 2 sts in same st)
- dec = decrease (hdc2tog or sc2tog as specified)
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together (decrease)
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- sp = space
- rep = repeat
- [ ] = work instructions in brackets as directed
- ( ) = stitch count at end of row/round

**Special Stitches:**

**Shell:** (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same st or sp

**V-stitch (V-st):** (dc, ch 1, dc) in same st or sp

**hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together):** [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop] twice (5 loops on hook), yo, draw through all 5 loops

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** Corset is worked in 6 separate panels (2 front panels, 2 back panels, 2 side panels) worked flat in rows from bottom to top, then seamed together and edged.

2. **Turning Chains:** Ch 2 at beginning of hdc rows does NOT count as a stitch. Ch 3 at beginning of dc rows DOES count as first dc.

3. **Stitch Counts:** Stitch count at end of each row is shown in parentheses ( ).

4. **Direction:** All panels worked from bottom (underbust) to top edge with RS facing.

5. **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch or whipstitch on wrong side for invisible seams.

6. **Boning:** Inserted after assembly but before edging. Boning channels are sewn to wrong side of corset.

7. **Shaping:** Front panels include bust shaping using short rows. Back panels are straight.

8. **Blocking:** Aggressive blocking recommended before assembly for crisp, professional finish.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### FRONT PANEL (Make 2)

**Foundation:** Ch 31 (27, 31, 35).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as first hdc) and in each ch across. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 2 (does not count as st), turn, hdc in each st across. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Rows 3-4:** Rep Row 2. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Begin Shell Pattern:**

**Row 5 (RS):** Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in next st, *sk next 2 sts, shell in next st, sk next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 3 (2, 3, 4) more times. (4, 3, 4, 5 shells with dc groups between)

Math check: [dc in 2 sts] + [4 shells × (skip 4 sts + 1 shell st = uses 5 sts)] + [3 dc groups × 2 sts] = 2 + 20 + 6 = 28 sts used, creates pattern across 30 sts ✓

**Row 6 (WS):** Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in next st, *shell in ch-1 sp of shell below, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Rows 7-14:** Rep Row 6. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Begin Bust Shaping with Short Rows:**

**Row 15 (RS):** Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell, dc in next 2 sts] 3 (2, 3, 4) times, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. (Work only first 23, 19, 23, 27 sts)

**Row 16 (WS):** Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell, dc in next 2 sts] across worked sts. (23, 19, 23, 27 sts)

**Row 17 (RS):** Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell, dc in next 2 sts] 2 (1, 2, 3) times, turn. (Work only first 16, 12, 16, 20 sts)

**Row 18 (WS):** Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell, dc in next 2 sts] across worked sts. (16, 12, 16, 20 sts)

**Row 19 (RS):** Ch 3, turn, working across full width, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell or in unworked st from 2 rows below, dc in next 2 sts] across. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Rows 20-22:** Ch 3, turn, dc in next st, [shell in ch-1 sp of shell, dc in next 2 sts] across. (30, 26, 30, 34 sts)

**Shape Top Edge:**

**Row 23 (RS):** Ch 3, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (28, 24, 28, 32 sts)

**Row 24:** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (26, 22, 26, 30 sts)

**Row 25:** Ch 2, turn, hdc across. (26, 22, 26, 30 sts)

Fasten off, leaving 24" tail for seaming. Weave in beginning yarn end.

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### SIDE PANEL (Make 2)

**Foundation:** Ch 13 (13, 13, 15).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12, 12, 12, 14 sts)

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (12, 12, 12, 14 sts)

**Rows 3-24:** Rep Row 2. (12, 12, 12, 14 sts)

**Row 25:** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (10, 10, 10, 12 sts)

Fasten off, leaving 24" tail for seaming. Weave in beginning yarn end.

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### BACK PANEL (Make 2)

**Foundation:** Ch 25 (25, 27, 29).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (24, 24, 26, 28 sts)

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (24, 24, 26, 28 sts)

**Rows 3-4:** Rep Row 2. (24, 24, 26, 28 sts)

**Begin Eyelet Row for Boning Channel Placement:**

**Row 5 (RS):** Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 4 sts, *ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 2 (2, 2, 2) more times, hdc in last st. (21, 21, 23, 25 hdc + 3, 3, 3, 3 ch-1 sps)

Math check: 5 hdc + [3 × (1 ch-sp + 5 hdc)] + 1 hdc = 5 + 18 + 1 = 24 sts equivalent ✓

**Row 6 (WS):** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st and ch-1 sp across. (24, 24, 26, 28 sts)

**Rows 7-20:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (24, 24, 26, 28 sts)

**Shape Top Edge:**

**Row 21 (RS):** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (22, 22, 24, 26 sts)

**Row 22:** Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. (20, 20, 22, 24 sts)

**Rows 23-25:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (20, 20, 22, 24 sts)

**Create Lacing Eyelets (Center Back Edge):**

Do not fasten off. Rotate piece to work along the center back vertical edge.

**Edging with Eyelets:** With RS facing, ch 1, work sc evenly along the center back edge, placing 8 evenly spaced eyelets as follows:

Working along the vertical edge (approximately 25 rows = about 18 sc), work sc in end of each row/st, placing eyelets every 2" (approximately every 4-5 sc):

Sc in first 2 row ends, *ch 2, sk next row end, sc in next 4 row ends; rep from * 6 more times, ch 2, sk next row end, sc in last 2 row ends. (Approximately 14 sc + 8 ch-2 sps)

Fasten off, leaving 24" tail for seaming. Weave in beginning yarn end.

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### BONING CHANNELS (Make 8-10)

**Foundation:** Ch 6.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)

**Row 2:** Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each st across. (5 sc)

**Rows 3-50 (or until channel measures 11"):** Rep Row 2. (5 sc)

Fasten off, leaving 8" tails. These create tubes approximately ½" wide × 11" long.

Fold channel in half lengthwise and whipstitch long edges together, creating a tube. Leave ends open for boning insertion.

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## ASSEMBLY

**Blocking:**

Block all panels aggressively to measurements before assembly:
- Front panels: 7.5" (6.5", 7.5", 8.5") wide at base, 6.5" at top × 12" tall
- Back panels: 6" (6", 6.5", 7") wide at base, 5" at top × 12" tall
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