purlJam

<pattern>

# COZY BED SOCKS
**A Beginner-Friendly Toe-Up Pattern**

Perfect for keeping your feet warm and comfortable while lounging or sleeping. These socks are worked from the toe up using chunky yarn for extra coziness. Note: These socks are thicker than regular socks and are designed for wearing around the house or in bed, not inside shoes.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 
- 150-200 yards (137-183 m) chunky weight yarn (5)
- Suggested: Any soft chunky yarn in your favorite color
- For extra durability, consider acrylic/wool blends

**Hook**: 
- US K-10.5 (6.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- 2 stitch markers (different colors recommended)
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors

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## GAUGE

**13 sc and 12 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in single crochet, worked in the round

*Gauge is important for proper fit! Take time to check your gauge and adjust hook size if needed.*
- If you have more stitches per 4 inches → use a larger hook
- If you have fewer stitches per 4 inches → use a smaller hook

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## SIZING

This pattern is written for UK size 6 (US women's 8-8.5).

**Finished Measurements**:
- Foot circumference: 8.5 inches (21.5 cm)
- Foot length: 9.5 inches (24 cm) - adjustable
- Leg height: 4 inches (10 cm) from heel to cuff
- Total height: Approximately 6 inches (15 cm)

*To adjust length: Work more or fewer rounds in the Foot section before starting the heel.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- inc = increase (work 2 stitches in one stitch)
- PM = place marker
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- rep = repeat

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## SPECIAL STITCHES & TECHNIQUES

**Magic Ring**: Adjustable loop to start working in the round. (Tutorial: wrap yarn around fingers, pull through loop, chain 1, work stitches into ring, pull tail to tighten.)

**Working in the Round**: Continue working in a spiral without joining unless otherwise specified. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

**Short Rows**: Partial rows worked back and forth to create the heel shaping.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### TOE

**Rnd 1**: Make a magic ring, ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into ring, pull tail to tighten ring. PM in first st. (8 sts)

**Rnd 2**: Work 2 sc in each st around. (16 sts)
*Count: 8 sts × 2 = 16 sts ✓*

**Rnd 3**: Sc in each st around. (16 sts)

**Setup for increases**: Place marker in st 8 (opposite side from beginning of round marker). You should now have 2 markers dividing the round in half: 8 sts on each side.

**Increase Rounds (Rnds 4-13)**:
Work the following increase round 10 times:

**Increase Round**: 
- Sc in each st to 1 st before first marker
- Work 2 sc in marked st (inc made), move marker to second sc
- Sc in each st to 1 st before second marker
- Work 2 sc in marked st (inc made), move marker to second sc

*You are adding 2 sts per round (1 st on each side of the toe).*

**After Rnd 13**: You should have 36 sts total.
*Verification: Started with 16 sts + (10 rounds × 2 sts per round) = 16 + 20 = 36 sts ✓*

**Rnds 14-15**: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

**Note**: Try on the toe. It should comfortably cover your toes and measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) from tip of toe. If it feels too small, work 2 more increase rounds, then 2 more even rounds.

**Adjustment for correct stitch count**:

**Rnd 16**: Sc in each of first 4 sts, sc2tog (decrease made), sc in each st to last 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in last 4 sts. (34 sts)
*Count: 36 - 2 = 34 sts ✓*

**Rnd 17**: Sc in each of first 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in last 3 sts. (32 sts)
*Count: 34 - 2 = 32 sts ✓*

**Rnd 18**: Sc in each of first 2 sts, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in last 2 sts. (30 sts)
*Count: 32 - 2 = 30 sts ✓*

**Rnd 19**: Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 3 sts, sc2tog, sc in last st. (28 sts)
*Count: 30 - 2 = 28 sts ✓*

Remove second marker (keep beginning of round marker only).

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### FOOT

Now that your toe is complete, you'll work the foot section in half double crochet for a cozy, warm fabric.

**Rnd 20**: Hdc in each st around. (28 sts)

**Rnds 21-40**: Hdc in each st around. (28 sts)

*These 21 rounds (Rnds 20-40) measure approximately 7 inches (17.8 cm).*
*Calculation: 21 rounds ÷ 12 rows per 4" = 1.75 × 4" = 7" ✓*

**TRY-ON CHECKPOINT**: The sock should reach from your toes to approximately 2 inches (5 cm) before your heel. Total foot measurement at this point should be about 7.5 inches (19 cm). 

*To adjust*: 
- For a longer foot, work additional rounds here
- For a shorter foot, work fewer rounds
- General rule: Stop when sock measures 2 inches less than your total foot length

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### HEEL (Short Row Method)

The heel is worked back and forth in rows on half of the stitches. The other half (instep) remains unworked.

**Setup**: The next 14 sts will be your heel sts. The remaining 14 sts are your instep (top of foot) and will not be worked during heel shaping.
*Count: 28 sts ÷ 2 = 14 heel sts, 14 instep sts ✓*

**Heel Row 1 (RS)**: Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in each of next 14 sts, turn. (14 sts worked)
*You've worked across the heel stitches. The instep stitches are behind your work, unworked.*

**Heel Row 2 (WS)**: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in each st to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. (12 sts worked, 2 sts unworked)
*Count: 14 - 1 sl st - 1 unworked = 12 sc ✓*

**Heel Row 3**: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in each st to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. (10 sts worked, 4 sts unworked)
*Count: 12 - 1 sl st - 1 unworked = 10 sc ✓*

**Heel Row 4**: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in each st to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. (8 sts worked, 6 sts unworked)
*Count: 10 - 1 sl st - 1 unworked = 8 sc ✓*

**Heel Row 5**: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in each st to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. (6 sts worked, 8 sts unworked)
*Count: 8 - 1 sl st - 1 unworked = 6 sc ✓*

*You should now have 6 center stitches with 4 unworked stitches on each side.*
*Verification: 4 + 6 + 4 = 14 heel sts ✓*

Now you'll work back out, picking up the unworked stitches:

**Heel Row 6**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 6 center sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (7 sts worked)

**Heel Row 7**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 7 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (8 sts worked)

**Heel Row 8**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 8 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (9 sts worked)

**Heel Row 9**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 9 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (10 sts worked)

**Heel Row 10**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 10 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (11 sts worked)

**Heel Row 11**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 11 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (12 sts worked)

**Heel Row 12**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 12 sts, sc in next unworked st, turn. (13 sts worked)

**Heel Row 13**: Ch 1, sc in each of the 13 sts, sc in last unworked st. (14 sts worked)

*All heel stitches are now back in play!*

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### LEG

You'll now resume working in the round for the leg portion.

**Rnd 41**: Working in the round again, hdc in each st around (across the 14 heel sts, then across the 14 instep sts). (28 sts)
*Count: 14 heel + 14 instep = 28 sts ✓*

**Rnds 42-51**: Hdc in each st around. (28 sts)

*These 11 rounds measure approximately 3.5 inches (9 cm).*
*Calculation: 11 rounds ÷ 12 rows per 4" = 0.92 × 4" = 3.7" ✓*

**TRY-ON CHECKPOINT**: The sock should reach to your desired ankle height. These bed socks sit at a comfortable ankle height.

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### CUFF

The cuff is worked in back loop only single crochet to create a ribbed texture that's stretchy and comfortable.

**Rnd 52**: Sc-BLO in each st around. (28 sts)

**Rnds 53-56**: Sc-BLO in each st around. (28 sts)

*The cuff is 5 rounds total, measuring approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm).*
*Calculation: 5 rounds ÷ 12 rows per 4" = 0.42 × 4" = 1.7" ✓*

**Rnd 57 (Final Round)**: Sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join.

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for weaving in.

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## FINISHING

1. **Weave in ends**: Use your yarn needle to weave in all ends securely, especially at the toe and cuff. Weave through several stitches in different