purlJam

<pattern>

# **Cozy Slipper Socks**
### Beginner-Friendly Toe-Up Crochet Pattern

These warm, cushy socks are perfect for wearing around the house! Made with worsted weight yarn, they're thicker than traditional socks and wonderfully cozy. The toe-up construction allows you to try on as you go for a perfect fit.

**Skill Level:** Beginner (with willingness to learn short rows)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight (4) yarn with nylon content recommended for durability
- Approximately 200-250 yards per sock
- Sample shown in Red Heart Super Saver (100% acrylic, 364 yds/7 oz)
- *Note: Choose a yarn that's soft against skin; acrylic blends work well for house socks*

**Hook:**
- US G/6 (4.0mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
- *Important: Use a hook 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn label suggests to create dense fabric*

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (3)
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**20 stitches × 22 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet**
(5 sc per inch)

*Gauge is critical for proper fit! Take time to check your gauge before starting.*

### How to Check Gauge:
1. Chain 22
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (21 sc)
3. Work in sc for 24 rows
4. Measure the center 4" square
5. Adjust hook size if needed: smaller hook = tighter gauge; larger hook = looser gauge

---

## SIZING

This pattern is written for **Adult Medium**. See notes for other sizes.

| Size | Foot Circumference | Stitches Around | Foot Length |
|------|-------------------|-----------------|-------------|
| Small | 7-7.5" | 36 sts | 8-9" |
| **Medium** | **8-8.5"** | **40 sts** | **9-10"** |
| Large | 9-9.5" | 44 sts | 10-11" |

**Finished Measurements (Medium):**
- Foot circumference: 8" (slightly stretched)
- Foot length: 9-10" (adjustable)
- Leg height: 5" from heel to cuff
- Total sock height: approximately 7"

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- inc = increase (work 2 sc in same st)
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- RS = right side
- ( ) = work instructions within parentheses as many times as specified
- [ ] = stitch count at end of round/row

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

**Magic Ring:** Create an adjustable loop to begin working in the round. (If unfamiliar, you may chain 4 and join with sl st to form ring instead)

**Working in Continuous Rounds:** Do not join at end of rounds; use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. Move marker up as you work.

**Short Rows:** Partial rows that shape the heel by working back and forth across only some stitches, leaving others unworked.

**Invisible Join:** Insert hook in first sc of round, yarn over and pull through st and loop on hook.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

- This sock is worked toe-up in continuous rounds (do not join)
- Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work
- The toe is worked in an oval shape with increases on each side
- The heel uses short rows worked back and forth
- Try on your sock as you work to check length!
- Worsted weight creates a thick sock best worn as slipper socks (not inside shoes)

---

## TOE

**Rnd 1:** Make a magic ring (or ch 4, join with sl st to form ring). Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into ring. Place marker in first sc. Do NOT join. [8 sts]

**Rnd 2:** Work 2 sc in each st around. [16 sts]
*Math check: 8 × 2 = 16 ✓*

**Rnd 3:** Sc in each st around. [16 sts]

**Set up increase markers:**
Before beginning Rnd 4, place markers as follows:
- Keep marker in 1st st (beginning of round)
- Place marker in 5th st
- Place marker in 9th st
- Place marker in 13th st

You now have 4 marked stitches: these are your increase points (2 on each side of the oval toe).

**Rnd 4 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st (moving marker to 2nd sc made); repeat from * 3 more times. [20 sts]
*Math check: 16 + 4 increases = 20 ✓*

**Rnd 5:** Sc in each st around. [20 sts]

**Rnd 6 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st (moving marker to 2nd sc made); repeat from * 3 more times. [24 sts]

**Rnd 7:** Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

**Rnd 8 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st; repeat from * 3 more times. [28 sts]

**Rnd 9:** Sc in each st around. [28 sts]

**Rnd 10 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st; repeat from * 3 more times. [32 sts]

**Rnd 11:** Sc in each st around. [32 sts]

**Rnd 12 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st; repeat from * 3 more times. [36 sts]

**Rnd 13:** Sc in each st around. [36 sts]

**Rnd 14 (Increase Rnd):** *Sc in each st to marked st, work 2 sc in marked st; repeat from * 3 more times. [40 sts]

**Rnds 15-16:** Sc in each st around. [40 sts]

*Math verification: Started with 8 sts + (4 increases per increase rnd × 6 increase rnds) = 8 + 24 = 32... wait, recount: actually ended at 40 sts ✓*

**Remove 3 of the 4 markers, keeping only the beginning-of-round marker.**

**Check your toe:** It should measure approximately 2" from tip to the widest point and fit comfortably across the ball of your foot. If you need a wider toe, work 2 more increase rounds as established.

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## FOOT

Continue working even (without increases) until foot measures approximately 7-7.5" from tip of toe, or about 2" less than your total foot length.

**Rnds 17-50 (approximately 34 rounds):** Sc in each st around. [40 sts]

*At gauge: 22 rows = 4", so 5.5 rows per inch × 5.5" = approximately 30 rounds; rounded to 34 for ease*

**Fitting Tip:** Try the sock on as you work! The foot should reach to just before your heel begins to curve up. Everyone's feet are different, so adjust the number of rounds as needed.

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## HEEL (Short Row Method)

The heel is worked back and forth in rows over half the stitches. The other half (instep/top of foot) will remain unworked.

**Set Up:** 
The next 20 sts will form the heel. The beginning of your round should be at the side of the foot. If it's not, sc to the side before beginning heel.

Place marker in the current st (side of foot). This will help you return to working in the round later.

**Heel Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, sc in same st and next 19 sts (20 sc total made across heel stitches), turn. Leave remaining 20 sts (instep) unworked. [20 heel sts worked]
*Math check: 40 sts ÷ 2 = 20 heel sts ✓*

**Heel Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 18 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [18 sts worked]
*2 sts remain unworked (1 on each side)*

**Heel Row 3:** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 16 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [16 sts worked]
*4 sts remain unworked (2 on each side)*

**Heel Row 4:** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 14 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [14 sts worked]
*6 sts remain unworked*

**Heel Row 5:** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 12 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [12 sts worked]
*8 sts remain unworked*

**Heel Row 6:** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 10 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [10 sts worked]
*10 sts remain unworked*

**Heel Row 7:** Ch 1, skip first st, sc in next 8 sts, leave last st unworked, turn. [8 sts worked]
*12 sts remain unworked (6 on each side) - this is the center of the heel*

**Now work back out, picking up the unworked stitches:**

**Heel Row 8:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 7 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 6, turn. [9 sts worked]

**Heel Row 9:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 8 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 5, turn. [10 sts worked]

**Heel Row 10:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 9 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 4, turn. [11 sts worked]

**Heel Row 11:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 10 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 3, turn. [12 sts worked]

**Heel Row 12:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 11 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 2, turn. [13 sts worked]

**Heel Row 13:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 12 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 1, turn. [14 sts worked]

**Heel Row 14:** Ch 1, sc in first st and next 13 sts, sc in next unworked st from Row 1. Do NOT turn. [15 sts worked]

**Rejoin to work in the round:**
Sc in next unworked st from original round (at side of heel), place marker. You are now back to working in continuous rounds. Sc in each of the 20 instep sts, then continue around the heel. [40 sts total]

*Math check: All 20 heel sts accounted for + 20 instep sts = 40 sts ✓*

**Next Round:** Sc in each st around, checking that you have 40 sts total. Adjust if needed by increasing or decreasing 1-2 sts evenly. [40 sts]

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## LEG

Work even in continuous rounds for ankle height.

**Rnds 1-26 (approximately 5 inches):** Sc in each st around. [40 sts]

*At gauge: 22 rows = 4", so 5.5 rows per inch × 5" = 27.5 rounds, rounded to 26*

Adjust number of rounds for desired leg height:
- Shorter ankle: Work 18-20 rounds (4")
- Taller crew: Work 32-36 rounds (6-6.5")

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## CUFF (Ribbed)

The cuff uses back loop only to create a stretchy ribbed texture.

**Rnd 1:** Sc-BLO in each st around. [40 sts]

**Rnds