purlJam

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# WORSTED WEIGHT TOE-UP CROCHET SOCKS

### Advanced Crochet Pattern | Toe-Up Construction | Adult Sizes S (M, L)

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | Foot Circumference | Fits Foot Length |
|---|---|---|
| Small (S) | ~8" (20 cm) | 8.5–9.5" (21.5–24 cm) |
| Medium (M) | ~9" (23 cm) | 9.5–10.5" (24–26.5 cm) |
| Large (L) | ~10" (25.5 cm) | 10.5–11.5" (26.5–29 cm) |

> **Note:** Worsted weight socks are thicker than traditional fingering weight socks. These are best suited as house socks, slipper socks, or boot socks. Wearing shoes over these socks will require footwear that is at least one full size larger than usual.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYCA #4), approximately 200–250 yards (185–230 m) per sock
  - *Recommended:* A wool-blend or wool/nylon blend with at least 20% nylon content for durability
  - *Example yarns:* Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Cascade 220 Superwash, Paintbox Simply DK (held doubled for worsted gauge)
- **Hook:** US E-4 / 3.5 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge — this is 1–2 sizes smaller than the yarn label recommends)
- **Notions:**
  - 4 locking stitch markers
  - Yarn needle for finishing
  - Scissors

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## GAUGE

**16 sc × 18 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm)** worked in single crochet through back loop only (sc BLO), using US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical for this pattern.** Socks that are too loose will not wear well and will bunch inside footwear. Socks that are too tight will be uncomfortable. Please swatch before beginning and adjust your hook size as needed. Go down a hook size if your swatch is too large; go up a hook size if your swatch is too small.

**To make a gauge swatch:** Foundation chain of 20. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (19 sc) Rows 2–20: Ch 1, turn, sc BLO across. Fasten off. Block lightly. Measure the center 16 stitches and 18 rows.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sc | single crochet |
| sc2tog | single crochet 2 together (decrease) |
| BLO | back loop only |
| FLO | front loop only |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sp | space |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| PM | place marker |
| SM | slip marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| approx | approximately |
| W&T | wrap and turn (see Special Techniques) |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Working in the Round (Continuous Spiral)
These socks are worked in a continuous spiral — do **not** join rounds with a slip stitch unless instructed. Use a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to track your position, moving it up as you work.

### Magic Ring
1. Wrap yarn around your finger twice to form a loop.
2. Insert hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, and ch 1 (this does not count as a stitch).
3. Work the required number of sc into the center of the ring.
4. Pull the tail to close the ring snugly.

### Wrap and Turn (W&T) — Short Row Technique
Used in the heel to shape the sock without leaving holes.

**On a right-side row:**
1. Work to the turning point.
2. Insert hook under both loops of the next stitch (the stitch you are about to leave unworked).
3. Pull up a loop of yarn and draw it through — this creates a "wrap" securing the live stitch.
4. Turn your work so the wrong side faces you.
5. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Continue pattern.

**On a wrong-side row:**
Work the wrap and turn the same way.

### Picking Up Wraps
When you return to a wrapped stitch during heel pick-up rows:
1. Insert hook through the wrap **and** through both loops of the stitch below it simultaneously.
2. Complete the sc as normal. This closes the wrap and eliminates the gap.

### BLO Single Crochet (sc BLO)
Insert hook through the back loop only (the loop farthest from you) of the indicated stitch. Complete sc as normal. This creates a raised ridge on the right side of the fabric and adds horizontal stretch.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. Sizes are written as **Small (Medium, Large)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
2. All stitch counts are given at the end of rounds/rows in brackets: **[32 (36, 40) sts]**
3. The sock is worked toe-up in a continuous spiral. The heel is worked flat in short rows.
4. After the heel is complete, you will resume working in the round for the leg.
5. For a striped sock, change colors every 2 rounds in the foot or leg section. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the sock.
6. If you plan to reinforce the heel and toe, hold a strand of coordinating thread or thin nylon reinforcement thread alongside your yarn in those sections.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

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### SECTION 1: TOE

The toe is worked from the tip outward. You will begin with 8 stitches and increase every round until you reach your full stitch count.

**Setup — Magic Ring:**
Make a magic ring. Work 8 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. Do **not** join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. **[8 sts]**

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**Understanding the Toe Shaping:**
The 8 starting stitches are divided into two equal groups of 4:
- **Top of foot stitches:** sts 1–4 (the side facing up when you wear the sock)
- **Bottom of foot stitches:** sts 5–8 (the sole side)

You will place markers at the last stitch of each group (sts 4 and 8) to mark the two increase points. Increases are made by working 2 sc into the marked stitch at the end of each group.

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**Rnd 1 (Increase Round):**
*Work 1 sc BLO in each st to the stitch before the halfway point, 2 sc BLO in next st, PM in the second of these 2 sts; work 1 sc BLO in each st to last st of round, 2 sc BLO in last st, PM in second of these 2 sts.* **[10 sts]**

> **Stitch count check:** 8 + 2 increases = 10 sts ✅

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**Continue increasing as follows:**

**Rnd 2:** *[Sc BLO to 1 st before marked st, 2 sc BLO in st before marker, SM, sc BLO in marked st] twice.* **[12 sts]**

> Wait — let's clarify the increase method for clarity:

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**INCREASE ROUND INSTRUCTIONS (used for Rnds 1–8):**
Work sc BLO in each stitch around, **except** at each of the 2 marked positions, work 2 sc BLO into the marked stitch (removing and replacing the marker into the second of the 2 new stitches as you go). This adds 2 stitches per increase round — one at each side of the toe.

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Work Increase Rounds as follows:

| Round | Stitches After Round |
|---|---|
| Setup | 8 sts |
| Rnd 1 | 10 sts |
| Rnd 2 | 12 sts |
| Rnd 3 | 14 sts |
| Rnd 4 | 16 sts |
| Rnd 5 | 18 sts |
| Rnd 6 | 20 sts |
| Rnd 7 | 22 sts |
| Rnd 8 | 24 sts |
| Rnd 9 | 26 sts |
| Rnd 10 | 28 sts |
| Rnd 11 | 30 sts |
| Rnd 12 | **32 sts → Size S, STOP HERE** |
| Rnd 13 | 34 sts |
| Rnd 14 | **36 sts → Size M, STOP HERE** |
| Rnd 15 | 38 sts |
| Rnd 16 | **40 sts → Size L, STOP HERE** |

> **Stitch count check:**
> - S: 8 + (12 × 2) = 8 + 24 = 32 sts ✅
> - M: 8 + (14 × 2) = 8 + 28 = 36 sts ✅
> - L: 8 + (16 × 2) = 8 + 32 = 40 sts ✅

**Completed toe should measure approximately 2.5" (6.5 cm) from tip to base for all sizes when measured flat.**

Remove increase markers. Place a single stitch marker at the beginning of the round. You will continue from here into the foot.

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### SECTION 2: FOOT

The foot is worked in continuous rounds of sc BLO with no increases or decreases. The fabric should feel firm and dense.

**Foot Rounds:** Work even in sc BLO for each round.

Continue until the foot (measured from the tip of the toe) is the following length:

| Size | Work Foot Until This Length From Toe Tip |
|---|---|
| S | 6" (15 cm) from toe tip |
| M | 7" (18 cm) from toe tip |
| L | 7.5" (19 cm) from toe tip |

> **Why stop here?** The heel adds approximately 2.5" (6.5 cm) of length to the sock. Stopping the foot 2.5" short of the target total foot length ensures the finished sock fits correctly.

> **Fit tip:** To customize to a specific foot length, subtract 2.5" from the total foot length and work the foot section until you reach that measurement.

**Stitch counts remain:** S = 32 sts | M = 36 sts | L = 40 sts throughout foot.

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### SECTION 3: HEEL (Short Row Method)

The heel is worked flat, back and forth in rows, over **half** the sock stitches. The other half (the top-of-foot or "instep" stitches) rest unworked while you shape the heel.

**Heel stitch counts:**
- S: 16 heel sts + 16 instep sts
- M: 18 heel sts + 18 instep sts
- L: 20 heel sts + 20 instep sts

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**Setup:**
At the end of your last foot round, you should have your stitch marker at the beginning of the round. The first half of your stitches (sts 1 through 16 (18, 20)) will be your **heel stitches**. The second half (sts 17–32 (19–36, 21–40)) are your **instep stitches** and will remain unworked.

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#### PART A: HEEL DECREASE ROWS (Narrowing Phase)

You will work across the heel stitches, then wrap and turn, working one fewer stitch on each subsequent row until the center third of the heel remains.

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**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO across all **16 (18, 20) heel sts**. W&T. **[16 (18, 20) sts worked]**

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO across to last st. W&T. *(Last st left unworked.)* **[15 (17, 19) sts worked]**

**Row 3 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st (do not work the wrapped st from Row 1 or the unworked st). W&T. **[14 (16, 18) sts worked]**

**Row 4 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[13 (15, 17) sts worked]**

**Row 5 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[12 (14, 16) sts worked]**

**Row 6 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[11 (13, 15) sts worked]**

**Row 7 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[10 (12, 14) sts worked]**

**Row 8 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[9 (11, 13) sts worked]**

**Row 9 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[8 (10, 12) sts worked]**

**Row 10 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[7 (9, 11) sts worked]**

**Size S only — STOP Part A here. [6 center sts remain between the two outermost wrapped sts]** ✅ (16 − 5 pairs of W&T = 6 sts)

**Row 11 (RS) — Sizes M and L only:** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[(8, 10) sts worked]**

**Row 12 (WS) — Sizes M and L only:** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[(7, 9) sts worked]**

**Size M only — STOP Part A here. [8 center sts remain]** ✅ (18 − 5 pairs of W&T = 8 sts)

**Row 13 (RS) — Size L only:** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[8 sts worked]**

**Row 14 (WS) — Size L only:** Ch 1. Sc BLO to last st. W&T. **[7 sts worked]**

**Size L only — STOP Part A here. [8 center sts remain]** ✅ (20 − 6 pairs of W&T = 8 sts)

> **Math check — center sts remaining:**
> - S: 16 − (5 × 2) = 6 sts ✅
> - M: 18 − (5 × 2) = 8 sts ✅
> - L: 20 − (6 × 2) = 8 sts ✅

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#### PART B: HEEL INCREASE ROWS (Widening Phase)

You will now work back out, picking up each wrapped stitch as you go. Each row adds one more stitch until you've worked all heel stitches again.

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**Row 1 (RS — Pick Up Phase):** Ch 1. Sc BLO across the center sts. When you reach the first wrapped st, *pick up wrap and sc through both wrap and st together* (see Special Techniques). W&T. **[Center sts + 1 picked-up wrap each side = 8 (10, 10) sts]**

**Row 2 (WS):** Ch 1. Sc BLO across to next wrapped st. Pick up wrap and sc through wrap and st together. W&T.

Continue in this manner, picking up one wrap on each end of each row, until all wrapped stitches have been picked up and you have worked across all **16 (18, 20) heel stitches** again.

> **You will work the same number of pick-up rows as you worked decrease rows:**
> - S: 5 pick-up rows
> - M: 5 pick-up rows
> - L: 6 pick-up rows

**After final pick-up row:** You should again have **16 (18, 20) heel stitches** with no remaining wraps. **[16 (18, 20) sts]** ✅

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**Resume working in the round:**
After completing the heel, work 1 sc BLO into each of the 16 (18, 20) instep stitches. You are now back to working in the round. Place stitch marker. **[32 (36, 40) sts]**

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### SECTION 4: LEG

The leg is worked in continuous rounds, continuing the same sc BLO pattern used for the foot. The leg begins just above the heel and continues up toward the cuff.

**Leg Rounds:** Work even in sc BLO for each round.

**Leg Heights (measured from top of heel):**

| Style | Height |
|---|---|
| Ankle sock | 3–4" (7.5–10 cm) |
| Crew sock | 5–6" (12.5–15 cm) |
| Boot sock | 7–8" (18–20 cm) |

Continue until leg measures your desired height, **minus 1.5" (4 cm)** for the cuff.

> *Example: For a 5" crew sock leg, work the leg section until it measures 3.5" from the heel, then begin the cuff.*

**Stitch count remains:** S = 32 sts | M = 36 sts | L = 40 sts throughout leg.

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### SECTION 5: CUFF

The cuff is worked in a slip stitch ribbing technique that creates a stretchy, tidy top edge. Unlike sc BLO fabric, this cuff uses alternating front and back loop slip stitches to simulate a knit 1×1 rib.

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**Slip Stitch Ribbing (worked in the round):**

**Cuff Round Pattern:** *[Sl st in FLO of next st, sl st in BLO of next st]; rep from * to end of round.

> This creates an alternating texture that mimics k1, p1 ribbing. The slip stitches should be worked loosely enough to stretch over the ankle comfortably.

**Cuff Setup:**
At the top of the leg, sl st in first stitch to join the round. (This is the only join sl st in the pattern.) Place marker.

**Cuff Rounds 1–6 (approx 1.5" / 4 cm):** Work Slip Stitch Ribbing round as described. Do not turn between rounds. Continue in spiral.

> **Gauge check for cuff:** 6 rounds of slip stitch ribbing = approx 1.5" (4 cm) at worsted weight. Adjust number of rounds if needed to reach your preferred cuff length.

**Fasten Off:** After final cuff round, fasten off, leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail for weaving in.

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### FINISHING

**Weave in ends:** Thread all yarn tails onto a yarn needle. Weave each tail through at least 1" (2.5 cm) of stitches on the wrong side, changing direction twice to secure. Trim excess.

**Close magic ring toe:** If your magic ring has a small gap, thread the cast-on tail through the 8 original stitches at the toe tip, pull snugly to close, and weave in.

**Blocking:** Lightly wet block socks by submerging in cool water, gently squeezing out excess (do not wring), rolling in a towel to remove moisture, and laying flat or placing on a sock blocker to dry. Do not stretch aggressively. Allow to dry completely before wearing.

**Second sock:** Make a second sock to match! For striped socks, take note of which color you started and ended with to ensure the pair matches.

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## FULL STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Section | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toe: Starting sts (magic ring) | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| Toe: Increase rounds | 12 | 14 | 16 |
| Toe: Final stitch count | 32 | 36 | 40 |
| Foot: Round count (approx) | ~19 rnds | ~22 rnds | ~24 rnds |
| Foot: Stitch count per round | 32 | 36 | 40 |
| Heel: Sts worked | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| Heel: Center sts remaining | 6 | 8 | 8 |
| Heel: Decrease/pick-up row pairs | 5 | 5 | 6 |
| Leg + Cuff: Stitch count per round | 32 | 36 | 40 |

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## YARN QUANTITY GUIDE

| Size | Approximate Yardage Per Sock |
|---|---|
| Small | 200–215 yards (185–200 m) |
| Medium | 215–235 yards (200–215 m) |
| Large | 235–250 yards (215–230 m) |

> **Total for a pair:** S = ~420 yds | M = ~460 yds | L = ~490 yds
>
> A standard 200-yard skein of worsted weight yarn will make approximately one sock at size Small/Medium. Plan for 2 skeins per pair.

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## CUSTOMIZATION OPTIONS

**Stripes:** Change yarn color every 2 rounds in the foot or leg. Carry unused color loosely up the inside of the sock, or fasten off and rejoin to minimize bulk.

**Textured leg:** For a more interesting leg, alternate 2 rounds of sc BLO with 2 rounds of sc FLO. This creates a subtle horizontal ridge pattern.

**Boot cuff:** Work the cuff section for 4–5" (10–12.5 cm) instead of 1.5" and fold down for a decorative boot cuff effect.

**Reinforced heel and toe:** Hold a strand of nylon thread or thin reinforcement yarn alongside your main yarn during the heel and toe sections for extra durability.

**Thinner sock option:** Substitute a DK weight yarn with a US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook. Adjust stitch count as needed based on your gauge.

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*Pattern designed for personal use. You may sell finished items made from this pattern. Please credit the pattern if sharing online.*

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