purlJam

---

# Crocheted Baby Onesie
### A Beginner-Friendly Pattern in DK Weight Yarn

---

## Description

This sweet, classic baby onesie is worked in two flat panels (front and back) that are seamed at the shoulders and sides. A simple snap crotch makes diaper changes easy. Finished with tidy bands at the neckline, armholes, and leg openings, this onesie is a perfect first garment project for a beginner crocheter. The fabric is worked in single crochet for a firm, cozy, and durable finish.

---

## Sizes

| Size | Chest Circumference | Body Length (shoulder to crotch) | Approximate Age |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Size 1** | 15 in (38 cm) | 10 in (25.5 cm) | Newborn |
| **Size 2** | 17 in (43 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 0–3 Months |
| **Size 3** | 18 in (46 cm) | 12 in (30.5 cm) | 3–6 Months |

**Pattern is written for Size 2 (0–3 Months). Changes for Sizes 1 and 3 are shown in parentheses as (Size 1, Size 3).**

---

## Materials

- **Yarn:** DK weight (CYCA #3), approximately 350 (300, 400) yards / 320 (275, 365) meters
  - *Sample shown in: any smooth DK yarn in a baby-safe fiber such as cotton, cotton-blend, or superwash merino*
  - *Suggested yarns: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, Lion Brand Pound of Love (DK version), Drops Safran*
- **Hook:** US Size 5 / 3.75 mm (or size needed to match gauge)
- **Notions:**
  - Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
  - Scissors
  - Stitch markers (4)
  - 3–4 sew-on snaps (size 1 or size 2) for crotch closure
  - Measuring tape

---

## Gauge

**18 sc × 22 rows = 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm)**

Gauge is important for this project. Please take the time to make a gauge swatch before beginning. To swatch: chain 25, work sc across for 28 rows. Block lightly if needed and measure the center 4 in (10 cm).

*If your swatch has too many stitches per inch, go up a hook size. If too few, go down a hook size.*

---

## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **beg** | beginning |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **ch** | chain |
| **ch-sp** | chain space |
| **cont** | continue |
| **dec** | decrease |
| **hdc** | half double crochet |
| **inc** | increase (2 sc in same stitch) |
| **rem** | remaining |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **RS** | right side |
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **sc2tog** | single crochet 2 together (decrease) |
| **sk** | skip |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **sp** | space |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **t-ch** | turning chain |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **[ ]** | work instructions within brackets the number of times stated |

---

## Special Stitch Definitions

**sc2tog (single crochet 2 together — decrease):**
Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into following st and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. — 1 stitch decreased.

**Ribbing Row (worked in BLO):**
Single crochet in the back loop only of each stitch across. This creates a stretchy, rib-like texture for bands.

---

## Pattern Notes

1. **Turning Chain:** The turning chain (ch 1) at the beginning of every row does **not** count as a stitch. Always work the first sc into the very first stitch.
2. **Stitch Counts:** Stitch counts are given in parentheses at the end of each row/round, e.g., *(38 sts)*.
3. **Right Side vs. Wrong Side:** The right side (RS) is the smooth face of the fabric. Mark the RS of each panel with a stitch marker after Row 1.
4. **Seaming:** All seaming is done with a yarn needle using the mattress stitch or whipstitch, whichever you find easier.
5. **Crotch Snap Band:** Instead of buttons (a choking hazard), sew-on snaps are used for the crotch closure. All small notions must be securely sewn to prevent detachment.
6. **Sizing Note:** The pattern is written for Size 2. Where instructions differ for Sizes 1 and 3, the format is: **(Size 1: xx sts / Size 3: xx sts)** or listed as **(28, 38, 43)** meaning (Size 1, Size 2, Size 3).

---

## Stitch Count Reference Chart

| Section | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foundation chain | 35 | 38 | 41 |
| Panel width (sts) | 34 | 38 | 40 |
| Neck sts (center) | 18 | 22 | 24 |
| Each shoulder (sts) | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| Body rows to armhole | 44 | 50 | 56 |
| Armhole shaping rows | 12 | 14 | 14 |
| Shoulder strap rows | 10 | 10 | 12 |
| Leg opening (approx. sts) | 28 | 32 | 36 |

---

## Instructions

### BACK PANEL

#### Foundation

**Ch 39 (35, 39, 42).**

> *Note: Foundation chains are listed as (Size 1, Size 2, Size 3). For Size 2, chain 39.*

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(38 sts)* (Size 1: 34 sts / Size 3: 41 sts)
Turn.

> *Tip: Place a stitch marker on the RS (the side facing you on Row 1) so you can easily track your rows.*

**Row 2:** Ch 1, sc in each st across. *(38 sts)* Turn.

#### Body

**Rows 3–52 (3–46, 3–52, 3–58):** Rep Row 2 until piece measures approximately 9 in (23 cm) / Size 1: 8 in (20.5 cm) / Size 3: 10 in (25.5 cm) from foundation edge, or desired length to underarm. *(38 sts)*

> *Check length frequently. The measurement is from the first row to the needle. End with a WS row.*

---

#### Armhole Shaping

The armholes are shaped with simple decreases at each end of the row.

**Row 53 (47, 53, 59) — Armhole Decrease Row 1 (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. *(36 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 32 sts / Size 3: 39 sts)

**Row 54 (48, 54, 60) — Armhole Decrease Row 2 (WS):**
Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. *(34 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 30 sts / Size 3: 37 sts)

**Row 55 (49, 55, 61) — Armhole Decrease Row 3 (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. *(32 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 28 sts / Size 3: 35 sts)

**Rows 56–60 (50–54, 56–60, 62–66) — Even Rows:**
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. *(32 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 28 sts / Size 3: 35 sts)

> *The armhole shaping is now complete. You should have 32 sts (Size 1: 28 sts / Size 3: 35 sts) on your hook.*

---

#### Back Neck & Shoulder Shaping

You will now divide the work to create two shoulder straps and the neck opening.

**Row 61 (55, 61, 67) — Right Shoulder Setup Row (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc in first 8 sts only. *(8 sts)* Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

> *You have worked across only the first 8 sts for the right shoulder strap. The remaining 24 sts will be worked later (center 22 sts = neck opening held, last 8 sts = left shoulder).*
> *(Size 1: Work 8 sts, hold 20 sts / Size 3: Work 8 sts, hold 27 sts)*

**Right Shoulder Strap — Rows 62–70 (56–64, 62–70, 68–78):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts across. *(8 sts)* Turn.
Work 9 more rows even on these 8 sts (10 rows total for shoulder strap).

Fasten off and weave in end.

**Left Shoulder — Setup:**
With RS facing, count in from the left edge and skip the center 22 sts (these form the back neck opening). Join yarn with sl st to the 23rd st from the right edge (or the 8th st from the left edge).

> *Tip: Count carefully! The center 22 sts are your neck opening. You should have 8 sts remaining at the left edge.*

**Row 61 (55, 61, 67) — Left Shoulder Setup Row (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts across to end. *(8 sts)* Turn.

**Left Shoulder Strap — Rows 62–70 (56–64, 62–70, 68–78):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts across. *(8 sts)* Turn.
Work 9 more rows even on these 8 sts (10 rows total for shoulder strap).

Fasten off and weave in end.

---

### FRONT PANEL

The front panel is worked identically to the back panel **up to and including the armhole shaping**, then the neck shaping differs slightly (the front neck is lower than the back neck for a better fit).

#### Foundation and Body

Repeat all instructions for the Back Panel from **Foundation** through the end of **Armhole Shaping (Row 60 / 54 / 60 / 66)**.

You should have **32 sts (Size 1: 28 sts / Size 3: 35 sts)** after armhole shaping.

---

#### Front Neck & Shoulder Shaping

The front neckline begins 4 rows earlier than the back to create a lower front neck.

**Row 57 (51, 57, 63) — Front Neck Setup Row (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc in first 8 sts only. *(8 sts)* Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

> *The center 16 sts are the front neck opening (slightly wider than back for ease of dressing). (Size 1: center 12 sts / Size 3: center 19 sts). The last 8 sts are the left shoulder.*

**Right Shoulder Strap — Rows 58–70 (52–64, 58–70, 64–78):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts across. *(8 sts)* Turn.
Work 13 rows even on these 8 sts (14 rows total for front right shoulder strap).

Fasten off and weave in end.

**Left Shoulder — Setup:**
With RS facing, skip the center 16 sts for the front neck opening. Join yarn with sl st to the 17th st from the right edge (the 8th st from the left edge).

**Row 57 (51, 57, 63) — Left Shoulder Setup Row (RS):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts across to end. *(8 sts)* Turn.

**Left Shoulder Strap — Rows 58–70 (52–64, 58–70, 64–78):**
Ch 1. Sc in each of the 8 sts. *(8 sts)* Turn.
Work 13 rows even. Fasten off and weave in end.

---

### CROTCH FLAP — FRONT (Bottom of Front Panel)

The crotch flap extends down from the bottom edge of the front panel to create the snap closure.

With RS of Front Panel facing, join yarn at bottom-right corner of the foundation row.

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc in each st across the foundation edge of the front panel. *(38 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 34 sts / Size 3: 41 sts)

**Rows 2–12:** Ch 1. Sc in each st across. *(38 sts)* Turn.
Work 11 more rows even. Piece should measure approximately 2 in (5 cm) from the picked-up edge.

Fasten off and weave in end.

---

### CROTCH FLAP — BACK (Bottom of Back Panel)

With RS of Back Panel facing, join yarn at bottom-right corner of the foundation row.

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Sc in each st across the foundation edge of the back panel. *(38 sts)* Turn.
(Size 1: 34 sts / Size 3: 41 sts)

**Rows 2–12:** Ch 1. Sc in each st across. *(38 sts)* Turn.
Work 11 more rows even.

Fasten off and weave in end.

---

## Assembly

> *Take your time with assembly — neat seams make a big difference in the finished look.*

### Step 1 — Shoulder Seams

Lay the Front and Back panels with RS facing together. Align the shoulder straps. Using a yarn needle and a length of yarn, seam the right front shoulder strap to the right back shoulder strap using whipstitch or mattress stitch. Repeat for the left shoulder.

### Step 2 — Side Seams

With RS facing together, align the side edges of the front and back panels. Starting at the bottom of the armhole shaping and working down to the bottom edge (foundation row), seam the sides together using whipstitch. Leave the armhole openings open. Leave the bottom crotch flaps unjoined.

> *The seam should run from just below the armhole decrease to the bottom of the body panels only — do not seam through the crotch flaps.*

---

## Finishing Bands

All bands are worked in single crochet through the back loop only (BLO) to create a stretchy, rib-like texture.

### Neckband

With RS facing, join yarn at the left back shoulder seam with a sl st.

**Round 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the entire neck opening, placing approximately 1 sc per row end along the shoulder strap sides, and 1 sc per stitch along the straight neck edges. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

> *Aim for approximately 56–60 sts total around the neck. An exact count is less critical here — just ensure the band lies flat without puckering or pulling tight.*

**Round 2:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. *(same count)*

**Round 3:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. *(same count)*

Fasten off and weave in end.

---

### Armhole Bands (Make 2)

With RS facing, join yarn at the base of the armhole at one side seam.

**Round 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the armhole opening. Aim for approximately 36–40 sts. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

> *To keep the band snug and tidy, you may work slightly fewer sts than the raw edge would suggest — work 1 sc per row end on the straight sides, but skip every 3rd–4th st at curved corners if needed.*

**Round 2:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. *(same count)*

**Round 3:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. *(same count)*

Fasten off and weave in end.
Repeat for second armhole.

---

### Leg Opening Bands

Before working the leg bands, you need to create the leg openings by partially joining the crotch flaps.

**Creating Leg Openings:**
Fold the front and back crotch flaps toward each other (wrong sides together). Each leg opening is formed at each side edge of the crotch flap area. Using a yarn needle, seam approximately 1.5 in (4 cm) at each side of the crotch flaps together. This creates a roughly oval leg hole on each side.

> *Do not seam the flaps together at the center — this is where the snaps will attach.*

**Leg Band (Make 2):**

With RS facing, join yarn at the side seam of one leg opening.

**Round 1 (RS):** Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the leg opening. Aim for approximately 32 sts (Size 1: 28 sts / Size 3: 36 sts). Join with sl st. Do not turn.

**Round 2:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. *(same count)*

**Round 3:** Ch 1. Sc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. *(same count)*

Fasten off and weave in end.
Repeat for second leg opening.

---

### Crotch Snap Closure

Overlap the front crotch flap over the back crotch flap at the center bottom.

Using a sewing needle and thread (matching yarn color), sew **3–4 sew-on snaps** evenly spaced across the overlapping crotch flaps.

> ⚠️ **Safety Note:** Sew each snap very securely with multiple passes of thread. Check snaps regularly for looseness. Never use buttons or other small parts on baby garments.

---

## Finishing

1. Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely with a yarn needle.
2. Hand wash the finished onesie in cool water with gentle soap. Lay flat to dry.
3. Once dry, gently tug into shape and allow to fully air dry before wearing.

---

## Finished Measurements (after light blocking)

| Measurement | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chest circumference | 15 in (38 cm) | 17 in (43 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| Body length (shoulder to crotch) | 10 in (25.5 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 12 in (30.5 cm) |
| Shoulder strap width | 1.75 in (4.5 cm) | 1.75 in (4.5 cm) | 1.75 in (4.5 cm) |
| Armhole depth | 2.25 in (5.5 cm) | 2.5 in (6.5 cm) | 2.5 in (6.5 cm) |
| Neck opening width | 4 in (10 cm) | 5 in (12.5 cm) | 5.5 in (14 cm) |
| Crotch flap length | 2 in (5 cm) | 2 in (5 cm) | 2 in (5 cm) |

---

## Helpful Tips for Beginners

- **Gauge really matters here.** Even a small difference in gauge can make the onesie too tight or too large. Swatch first!
- **Mark your right side** with a locking stitch marker on Row 1 — it's easy to lose track once you're a few rows in.
- **Count your stitches** at the end of every row, at least for the first 10 rows. It's much easier to fix a mistake early.
- **When picking up stitches for bands**, insert your hook under both legs of the edge stitch for a neat, even look.
- **Weaving in ends on baby items**: always weave back and forth in at least two directions and trim close to avoid loose tails that could wrap around tiny fingers.

---

*Pattern designed for personal use and handmade gifts. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern.*