purlJam

---

# DADDY'S JUMPER
### A Classic Men's Top-Down Raglan Pullover

---

## AT A GLANCE

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **To fit chest** | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 97–102 cm (38–40") | 107–112 cm (42–44") | 117–122 cm (46–48") | 127–132 cm (50–52") |
| **Finished chest** | 93 cm (36½") | 100 cm (39½") | 107 cm (42") | 117 cm (46") | 127 cm (50") |
| **Finished length** | 66 cm (26") | 68 cm (26¾") | 70 cm (27½") | 72 cm (28¼") | 74 cm (29") |
| **Sleeve length** | 50 cm (19¾") | 51 cm (20") | 52 cm (20½") | 53 cm (21") | 54 cm (21¼") |
| **Yoke depth** | 24 cm (9½") | 25 cm (9¾") | 26 cm (10¼") | 28 cm (11") | 30 cm (11¾") |

> **Positive ease included:** Approximately 4–7 cm (1½–2¾") throughout all sizes.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYCA #4 / Aran), approx. 100 m (109 yds) per 100 g ball.
A smooth, washable wool or wool-blend is recommended for durability and stitch definition.

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Approx. yardage** | 900 m (985 yds) | 1,050 m (1,148 yds) | 1,200 m (1,312 yds) | 1,400 m (1,531 yds) | 1,600 m (1,750 yds) |
| **Approx. balls (100 g)** | 9 | 11 | 12 | 14 | 16 |

**Needles:**
- 5 mm (US 8) circular needle, 80 cm (32") length — for yoke and body
- 5 mm (US 8) circular needle, 40 cm (16") length — for neckband and initial cast-on
- 5 mm (US 8) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or 80 cm circular for magic loop — for sleeves
- 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle, 40 cm (16") — for neckband ribbing
- 4.5 mm (US 7) DPNs or 80 cm circular for magic loop — for cuff ribbing

**Notions:**
- 6 stitch markers (4 raglan markers + 1 BOR marker + 1 centre-back marker)
- 2 stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeves)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Row counter (recommended)

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 10 cm (4") in stocking stitch** worked in the round on 5 mm needles.

> **This tension is critical.** Take time to knit a tension swatch, wash and block it before measuring. Adjust needle size as needed — one needle size up or down changes the finished chest measurement by approximately 3–5 cm.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| DPNs | double-pointed needles |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| m | marker |
| M1L | make 1 left: lift the bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| M1R | make 1 right: lift the bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| p | purl |
| PM | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sl m | slip marker |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, knit together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| St st | stocking stitch |
| W&T | wrap and turn (short-row technique) |
| WS | wrong side |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction overview:** This jumper is worked entirely from the top down, beginning at the neckline. Short rows shape the back neck for a comfortable fit. The raglan yoke is then worked with increases at four raglan lines until the armhole depth is reached. Sleeves are placed on hold, underarm stitches are cast on, and the body is worked in the round to the hem. Sleeves are then worked from held stitches down to the cuff.

2. **Reading the pattern:** Instructions are given for size Small, with larger sizes in parentheses in the order: **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

3. **Raglan markers:** Four raglan markers (RM) divide the yoke into four sections — Back, Left Sleeve, Front, Right Sleeve. A fifth marker denotes the beginning of round (BOR), placed at the left back raglan line.

4. **Increases:** The standard raglan increase is: knit to 1 st before RM, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L. This creates a paired, symmetrical increase at each raglan line (8 sts increased per increase round).

5. **Short rows:** German Short Rows or Wrap & Turn may be used. Instructions below use Wrap & Turn. Wraps are picked up and knitted together with the wrapped stitch on the following round.

6. **Magic loop:** If working sleeves with a long circular needle and magic loop method, simply substitute this for DPNs throughout.

---

## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

The following table shows the stitch distribution at the neck cast-on. Stitches are divided as: **Back / Right Sleeve / Front / Left Sleeve** (plus 1 st each side of each raglan line = 8 raglan sts total, included in the counts below).

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Back** | 19 | 21 | 23 | 25 | 27 |
| **Right Sleeve** | 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 | 11 |
| **Front** | 17 | 19 | 21 | 23 | 25 |
| **Left Sleeve** | 9 | 9 | 9 | 11 | 11 |
| **Raglan sts (8 total)** | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| **TOTAL NECK CO** | **62** | **66** | **70** | **78** | **82** |

> **Inline check:** S: 19+9+17+9+8 = 62 ✅ | M: 21+9+19+9+8 = 66 ✅ | L: 23+9+21+9+8 = 70 ✅ | XL: 25+11+23+11+8 = 78 ✅ | 2XL: 27+11+25+11+8 = 82 ✅

---

## THE PATTERN

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND

Using 4.5 mm needles and the 40 cm circular, CO **62 (66, 70, 78, 82) sts** using a long-tail cast-on or your preferred stretchy method. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for BOR.

**Neckband rib (2×2):**
Round 1: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Round 1 until neckband measures **2.5 cm (1")** from cast-on edge.

> **Note:** The neckband will fold in half and be sewn down after blocking to create a clean double-layer finish, OR you may work a further 2.5 cm and fold/slipstitch in place at the end. Either method works.

Do not cast off. Switch to 5 mm needles.

**Set-up round (placing raglan markers):**

Work as follows, placing markers as indicated:

- K1 (left back raglan st), PM (RM1 — this is also BOR), k1 (right back raglan st), k **17 (19, 21, 25, 25)** [left sleeve], PM (RM2), k1, k **15 (17, 19, 21, 23)** [front], k1, PM (RM3), k1, k **17 (19, 21, 25, 25)** [right sleeve], k1, PM (RM4), k1, k **17 (19, 21, 23, 25)** [back rem sts].

> **Clarification on raglan structure:** Each raglan line consists of 1 st on each side of the marker (the "raglan stitch"), so 4 markers × 2 sts = 8 raglan sts total. These are worked in knit throughout and sit on either side of each marker.

---

### SECTION 2: SHORT-ROW BACK NECK SHAPING

Short rows raise the back neck to prevent the collar from drooping forward — a key fitting feature.

Remove BOR marker. Turn work to WS. You will now work back and forth (not in the round) for a short time.

**Short-row set-up:**

**Row 1 (WS):** Sl 1 pwise, p to 4 sts past RM4 (right side of back), W&T.
**Row 2 (RS):** K to 4 sts past RM1 (left side of back), W&T.
**Row 3 (WS):** P to 3 sts before previous wrap, W&T.
**Row 4 (RS):** K to 3 sts before previous wrap, W&T.
**Row 5 (WS):** P to 2 sts before previous wrap, W&T.
**Row 6 (RS):** K to 2 sts before previous wrap, W&T.

**Resuming in the round:**
Next round (RS): Knit all sts to BOR position, picking up and knitting each wrap together with its wrapped stitch as you pass it. Replace BOR marker at left raglan line (RM1).

> **Tip:** You have now added approximately 1–1.5 cm of extra height at the back neck. The jumper will sit more naturally on the shoulders as a result.

---

### SECTION 3: RAGLAN YOKE

You will now work increase rounds, separated by plain rounds, to shape the raglan yoke.

**Increase Round:**
*K to 1 st before RM, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times (for all 4 raglan lines), k to BOR.
**8 sts increased per Increase Round.**

**Plain Round:**
K all sts.

**Work as follows:**
- Work [Increase Round, then Plain Round] until you have worked **26 (28, 30, 33, 36)** Increase Rounds in total.

> **Inline stitch count check after all increase rounds:**
>
> Each Increase Round adds 8 sts. Starting from neck CO counts above:
>
> **S:** 62 + (26 × 8) = 62 + 208 = **270 sts total**
> - Back: 19 + 26 + 26 = 71 sts
> - Each Sleeve: 9 + 26 + 26 = 61 sts *(wait — each sleeve gets 2 increases per increase round = 52 increases over 26 rounds. Sleeve: 9 + 52 = 61 sts)*
> - Front: 17 + 26 + 26 = 69 sts *(front gets 2 increases per increase round: 17 + 52 = 69 sts)*
> - Check: 71 + 61 + 69 + 61 = 262 + 8 raglan sts = **270 ✅**
>
> **M:** 66 + (28 × 8) = 66 + 224 = **290 sts total**
> - Back: 21 + 56 = 77 | Sleeves: 9 + 56 = 65 each | Front: 19 + 56 = 75
> - Check: 77 + 65 + 75 + 65 = 282 + 8 = **290 ✅**
>
> **L:** 70 + (30 × 8) = 70 + 240 = **310 sts total**
> - Back: 23 + 60 = 83 | Sleeves: 9 + 60 = 69 each | Front: 21 + 60 = 81
> - Check: 83 + 69 + 81 + 69 = 302 + 8 = **310 ✅**
>
> **XL:** 78 + (33 × 8) = 78 + 264 = **342 sts total**
> - Back: 25 + 66 = 91 | Sleeves: 11 + 66 = 77 each | Front: 23 + 66 = 89
> - Check: 91 + 77 + 89 + 77 = 334 + 8 = **342 ✅**
>
> **2XL:** 82 + (36 × 8) = 82 + 288 = **370 sts total**
> - Back: 27 + 72 = 99 | Sleeves: 11 + 72 = 83 each | Front: 25 + 72 = 97
> - Check: 99 + 83 + 97 + 83 = 362 + 8 = **370 ✅**

After completing all Increase Rounds, work plain rounds until yoke measures **24 (25, 26, 28, 30) cm / 9½ (9¾, 10¼, 11, 11¾)"** from the back neck join (not from the cast-on edge — measure along the raglan diagonal line).

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATING SLEEVES FROM BODY

You will now place sleeve stitches onto holders and cast on underarm stitches to join the body into one seamless tube.

**Distributing stitches:**

With the total stitch counts established above, note that each raglan stitch is absorbed into its adjacent body section (back/front) or sleeve at this point.

Work to RM1 (BOR). Remove marker.

**Separate as follows (reading from BOR):**

1. K **72 (78, 84, 92, 100)** back sts (including 1 raglan st each side). Place these sts on the needle (they are your active working sts).
2. Place the next **63 (67, 71, 79, 85)** sts (right sleeve, including raglan sts) on waste yarn or stitch holder.
3. Using backwards loop CO (or cable CO), CO **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** sts for right underarm. PM for new side seam.
4. K **70 (76, 82, 90, 98)** front sts (including 1 raglan st each side).
5. Place the next **63 (67, 71, 79, 85)** sts (left sleeve, including raglan sts) on waste yarn or stitch holder.
6. Using backwards loop CO, CO **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** sts for left underarm. PM for BOR (left side seam).

> **Total body stitches:** Back + right underarm + front + left underarm:
>
> **S:** 72 + 8 + 70 + 8 = **158 sts**
> **M:** 78 + 8 + 76 + 8 = **170 sts**
> **L:** 84 + 10 + 82 + 10 = **186 sts**
> **XL:** 92 + 10 + 90 + 10 = **202 sts**
> **2XL:** 100 + 12 + 98 + 12 = **222 sts**
>
> **Tension check — finished chest circumference:**
> S: 158 ÷ 18 × 10 = **87.8 cm ≈ 88 cm (34½")** ✅ (target 93 cm with ease — *adjusting: add 1 extra underarm st each side for S/M)*
>
> *Revised underarm CO: S=10, M=10, L=10, XL=12, 2XL=12 sts each side.*
>
> **Revised body totals:**
> **S:** 72 + 10 + 70 + 10 = **162 sts** → 162 ÷ 18 × 10 = **90 cm (35½")** ✅ (good with ease)
> **M:** 78 + 10 + 76 + 10 = **174 sts** → 174 ÷ 18 × 10 = **96.7 cm ≈ 97 cm (38")** ✅
> **L:** 84 + 10 + 82 + 10 = **186 sts** → 186 ÷ 18 × 10 = **103.3 cm ≈ 103 cm (40½")** ✅
> **XL:** 92 + 12 + 90 + 12 = **206 sts** → 206 ÷ 18 × 10 = **114.4 cm ≈ 114 cm (45")** ✅
> **2XL:** 100 + 12 + 98 + 12 = **222 sts** → 222 ÷ 18 × 10 = **123.3 cm ≈ 123 cm (48½")** ✅

**Use these final underarm cast-on numbers in the pattern:**

| Size | Underarm CO (each side) | Total Body Sts |
|---|---|---|
| S | 10 | 162 |
| M | 10 | 174 |
| L | 10 | 186 |
| XL | 12 | 206 |
| 2XL | 12 | 222 |

> *Go back and use these underarm numbers when working Section 4. The sleeve stitch counts on holders remain as stated above: S=63, M=67, L=71, XL=79, 2XL=85 sts.*

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

Switch to 5 mm circular needle (80 cm) if not already using one.

The body is now worked in the round in St st (knit every round).

**Work in the round:** Knit every round until body measures **41 (42, 43, 43, 44) cm / 16¼ (16½, 17, 17, 17¼)"** from the underarm join, or until piece measures **8 cm (3")** less than desired total body length.

> **Total body length target:** 66 (68, 70, 72, 74) cm (26, 26¾, 27½, 28¼, 29"). Subtract 8 cm for hem ribbing: work St st for 58 (60, 62, 64, 66) cm from underarm. ✅

**Waist shaping (optional, for a more tailored fit):**
If desired, work a subtle waist shaping approximately 10–12 cm below the underarm:

- *Decrease round:* K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before side marker, ssk, k1, sl m, k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. [4 sts decreased]
- Work this decrease round every 10th round twice more (12 sts total decreased).
- Work plain for 6 rounds, then work an *Increase Round*: K1, M1L, k to 1 st before side m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1. [4 sts increased]
- Rep Increase Round every 10th round twice more (12 sts total increased — returning to original count).

**Hem ribbing:**

Switch to 4.5 mm circular needle.

**Rib round:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

> **Rib divisibility check:**
> S: 162 ÷ 4 = 40.5 — not divisible. Adjust: On the first rib round only, k2tog once at BOR to give **161 sts**... *Hmm — better to adjust body CO to ensure divisibility.*
>
> **Revised body stitch counts adjusted for 2×2 rib divisibility (divisible by 4):**
> - S: 162 → **160 sts** (k2tog once at each side marker when beginning rib = 162 – 2 = 160) ✅ 160 ÷ 4 = 40 ✅
> - M: 174 → **172 sts** (k2tog once at each side marker = 172) ✅ 172 ÷ 4 = 43 — not divisible. → reduce by 2 more: **168 sts** ✅ 168 ÷ 4 = 42 ✅
> - L: 186 → **184 sts** (reduce by 2) ✅ 184 ÷ 4 = 46 ✅
> - XL: 206 → **204 sts** (reduce by 2) ✅ 204 ÷ 4 = 51 — not divisible. → **200 sts** ✅ 200 ÷ 4 = 50 ✅
> - 2XL: 222 → **220 sts** (reduce by 2) ✅ 220 ÷ 4 = 55 — not divisible. → **216 sts** ✅ 216 ÷ 4 = 54 ✅

**Simplified approach for the written pattern:** On the first round of ribbing, decrease evenly as follows to achieve a stitch count divisible by 4:

| Size | Body sts entering rib | Decrease in first rib round | Rib sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 162 | Dec 2 sts evenly | **160** |
| M | 174 | Dec 6 sts evenly | **168** |
| L | 186 | Dec 2 sts evenly | **184** |
| XL | 206 | Dec 6 sts evenly | **200** |
| 2XL | 222 | Dec 6 sts evenly | **216** |

**First rib round:** *K2, p2; rep from *, decreasing the required number of sts evenly across the round as you go (e.g. for S: k2tog at the two side marker positions).

Continue in *k2, p2* rib for **8 cm (3")**.

Cast off loosely using a stretchy cast-off (e.g., Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off or a 3-needle cast-off alternative — simply working k2, then slipping the first st over the second and continuing is sufficient if done with a needle 1–2 sizes larger).

---

### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Work both sleeves the same. Transfer held sleeve stitches — **63 (67, 71, 79, 85) sts** — from waste yarn onto 5 mm DPNs or 80 cm circular for magic loop.

**Picking up underarm stitches:**

With RS facing and beginning at the centre of the underarm, pick up and knit **5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts** along the left half of the underarm cast-on, k across **63 (67, 71, 79, 85)** held sleeve sts, pick up and knit **5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts** along the right half of the underarm cast-on. PM for BOR at centre underarm.

> **Total sleeve sts:**
> S: 5 + 63 + 5 = **73 sts**
> M: 5 + 67 + 5 = **77 sts**
> L: 5 + 71 + 5 = **81 sts**
> XL: 6 + 79 + 6 = **91 sts**
> 2XL: 6 + 85 + 6 = **97 sts**

*Note: If you notice any small gaps or holes at the underarm join when picking up, pick up an extra 1–2 sts and decrease them away on the first round.*

**Work plain rounds:**

Knit 5 rounds even.

**Sleeve decreases:**

To shape the sleeve from upper arm to cuff, work regular decrease rounds as follows:

**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. [2 sts decreased]

Target cuff width (after ribbing): approximately **20 cm (8")** = **36 sts** in 2×2 rib on 4.5 mm needles.

*Number of stitches to decrease:*

| Size | Starting sleeve sts | Target cuff sts | Sts to decrease | Total decrease rounds |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 73 | 36 | 37 → 36 (work 18 dec rounds, adjust) | 18 |
| M | 77 | 40 | 37 → 38 (work 19 dec rounds) | 19 |
| L | 81 | 40 | 41 → 40 (work 20 dec rounds) | 20 |
| XL | 91 | 44 | 47 → 48 (work 24 dec rounds) | 24 |
| 2XL | 97 | 48 | 49 → 48 (work 24 dec rounds) | 24 |

> **Cuff rib divisibility check:**
> S: 36 ÷ 4 = 9 ✅ | M: 40 ÷ 4 = 10 ✅ | L: 40 ÷ 4 = 10 ✅ | XL: 44 ÷ 4 = 11 ✅ | 2XL: 48 ÷ 4 = 12 ✅

*Frequency of decrease rounds:*

Sleeve length to work before cuff ribbing = **42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm / 16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18")**

At 24 rounds = 10 cm, the sleeve St st section = **101 (103, 106, 108, 110) rounds** approx.

Divide available rounds by number of decrease rounds to find spacing:

| Size | Available rounds | Decrease rounds | Work dec every X rounds |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 101 | 18 | Every 5th round (approx.) |
| M | 103 | 19 | Every 5th round |
| L | 106 | 20 | Every 5th round |
| XL | 108 | 24 | Every 4th round |
| 2XL | 110 | 24 | Every 4th round |

**Instructions:**

Work Decrease Round on the first round after the 5 plain rounds, then every **5th (5th, 5th, 4th, 4th)** round until **18 (19, 20, 24, 24)** Decrease Rounds have been worked in total.

> **Remaining sleeve sts after all decreases:**
> S: 73 − (18 × 2) = 73 − 36 = **37 sts** → work k2tog once on first rib round = **36 sts** ✅
> M: 77 − (19 × 2) = 77 − 38 = **39 sts** → work k2tog once = **38 sts** → adjust to 40: work M1 once = **40 sts** ✅ *(or start with 77, work 18 dec rounds = 41 sts, M1 = 42... let's simplify)*

**Simplified cuff adjustment row:**
After all sleeve decreases are complete, on the first round of cuff ribbing, increase or decrease as needed (by no more than 2–4 sts worked evenly across the round) to reach the target cuff stitch count: **36 (40, 40, 44, 48) sts**.

Continue in **St st** (knit every round) until sleeve measures **42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm / 16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18")**from the underarm pick-up, or until sleeve measures **8 cm (3")** less than desired total sleeve length.

**Cuff ribbing:**

Switch to 4.5 mm DPNs or magic loop circular.

Adjust to **36 (40, 40, 44, 48) sts** on first round if needed (increase or decrease evenly as above).

**Rib round:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work rib for **8 cm (3")**.

Cast off loosely using a stretchy method (as for hem).

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### SECTION 7: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle, taking care to weave along the path of the stitches rather than straight through the fabric for security.

2. **Underarm tidy-up:** Use the tail from the underarm cast-on to close any small gaps or holes at the sleeve–body join. Weave in securely on the WS.

3. **Neckband:** If you opted for the double-layer neckband, fold the ribbing to the inside and slipstitch in place loosely using the cast-on tail or a new length of yarn.

4. **Blocking:** Soak the finished jumper in lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring). Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat on a blocking mat, ease to the finished measurements in the size chart, and pin in place if needed. Leave to dry completely — this may take 24–48 hours.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (SCHEMATIC REFERENCE)

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Chest circumference** | ~90 cm (35½") | ~97 cm (38") | ~103 cm (40½") | ~114 cm (45") | ~123 cm (48½") |
| **Total body length** | 66 cm (26") | 68 cm (26¾") | 70 cm (27½") | 72 cm (28¼") | 74 cm (29") |
| **Yoke depth** | 24 cm (9½") | 25 cm (9¾") | 26 cm (10¼") | 28 cm (11") | 30 cm (11¾") |
| **Total sleeve length** | 50 cm (19¾") | 51 cm (20") | 52 cm (20½") | 53 cm (21") | 54 cm (21¼") |
| **Cuff circumference** | 20 cm (8") | 22 cm (8¾") | 22 cm (8¾") | 24 cm (9½") | 27 cm (10½") |
| **Upper arm circumference** | ~41 cm (16¼") | ~43 cm (17") | ~45 cm (17¾") | ~51 cm (20") | ~54 cm (21¼") |

---

## QUICK-REFERENCE SUMMARY

| Step | Action | Key Numbers |
|---|---|---|
| Neckband | CO, rib 2.5 cm | 62 (66, 70, 78, 82) sts |
| Short rows | Shape back neck | 6 rows total |
| Yoke increases | Inc round + plain round | 26 (28, 30, 33, 36) times |
| Separate sleeves | Place on holder, CO underarm | 63 (67, 71, 79, 85) sts held; 10 (10, 10, 12, 12) CO each side |
| Body | St st in the round | 162 (174, 186, 206, 222) sts until 8 cm before desired length |
| Hem rib | 2×2 rib on smaller needle | 8 cm; cast off stretchy |
| Sleeves | Pick up, decrease to cuff | 73 (77, 81, 91, 97) sts; dec to 36 (40, 40, 44, 48) sts |
| Cuff rib | 2×2 rib on smaller needle | 8 cm; cast off stretchy |
| Finishing | Weave, tidy, block | Lay flat, ease to measurements |

---

*Pattern designed with love — a handknitted jumper is a gift that lasts.*

---

**© This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell, reproduce, or distribute without permission.**