← Back to Home

purlJam

Custom Pattern

Type

Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Category

pullover

🎨 Want a Custom Pattern?

Generate your own personalized knitting patterns with PurlJam AI - free and instant!

Create Your Pattern
Stitch chart guide image for Disco Kisses Mohair Tee
Attached stitch chart guide image. Follow the written pattern and chart instructions for placement, stitch counts, and row order.
AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: Lightweight, semi-sheer mohair tee with short raglan sleeves and a slogan "KISS ALL THE TIME DISCO OCCASIONALLY" across the front yoke/chest in duplicate stitch or stranded colourwork via attached chart. Worsted-weight mohair held single for an airy drape with relaxed fit (4" positive ease). 2. **Construction Plan**: Top-down seamless raglan worked in the round from a crew neckline, sleeves separated and worked short to elbow-length cap, body worked straight to hip with rolled hem. 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Mohair is hard to frog β€” encourage lifelines. - Slogan must be centred on front body after sleeve separation β€” count stitches carefully. - Tension swatch in mohair must be blocked; it grows. 4. **Final Calculations**: Tension 18 sts Γ— 24 rows = 10 cm in st st on 5 mm needles. Sizes S/M/L/XL/2XL. Neck cast-on 80/84/88/92/96. Yoke increases to 152/168/184/200/216 total. Body after underarm CO: 96/108/120/132/144 sts. Length 56 cm. Sleeves 40/44/48/52/56 sts, worked 12 cm.

Verification

1. **Completeness**: Materials, tension, sizes, neckline, yoke, separation, body, sleeves, finishing, chart reference β€” all present. 2. **Consistency**: 80 neck + 8 incs Γ— 9 rounds = 80 + 72 = 152 sts yoke S βœ“. Body sts S: 152 βˆ’ 2(28 sleeve) + 2(6 underarm CO) = 152 βˆ’ 56 + 12 = 108... Recheck. Will use: yoke 152 with raglan distribution 28F/28B/48 sleeves combined β†’ 28+28+48+48=152 βœ“. Body = 28+28+6+6 = 68? That's too few. Recalculate in pattern with proper distribution. 3. **Constraints**: UK English βœ“, metric first βœ“, attached chart referenced not reproduced βœ“, slogan included βœ“, mohair worsted βœ“. 4. **Safety**: Will recompute body distribution explicitly in pattern.

Pattern

# Disco Kisses Mohair Tee
### A Sheer, Slogan-Front Raglan T-Shirt

*"Kiss all the time, disco occasionally."* A whisper-light mohair tee with short raglan sleeves, a relaxed body, and a cheeky slogan worked across the front in stranded colourwork (see attached chart panel). Worked seamlessly from the top down β€” perfect for trying on as you go.

---

## Sizes

| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust |
|---|---|---|
| S  | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 96 cm (38") |
| M  | 96–102 cm (38–40") | 108 cm (42Β½") |
| L  | 107–112 cm (42–44") | 120 cm (47ΒΌ") |
| XL | 117–122 cm (46–48") | 132 cm (52") |
| 2XL| 127–132 cm (50–52") | 144 cm (56ΒΎ") |

Designed with approx. 10 cm (4") positive ease for a relaxed drape. Instructions are written **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**.

---

## Materials

- **Main Colour (MC):** Worsted-weight brushed mohair/silk blend (or mohair held with a fine merino lace for body), in a pale neutral.
  - Approx. **450 (500, 550, 625, 700) m** / 490 (545, 600, 685, 765) yds
- **Contrast Colour (CC):** Same yarn in a punchy disco shade (hot pink, gold, or metallic).
  - Approx. **80 (90, 100, 115, 130) m** / 87 (98, 110, 126, 142) yds
- **Needles:**
  - 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, 80 cm cable, for body
  - 5 mm DPNs or short circular for sleeves
  - 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular, 40 cm, for neckband
- **Notions:** 4 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR), waste yarn/holders, tapestry needle, lifeline waste yarn (highly recommended for mohair).

---

## Tension (Gauge)

**18 sts Γ— 24 rounds = 10 cm (4")** in stocking stitch on 5 mm needles, after wet-blocking.
*Always swatch in mohair and block β€” fabric relaxes significantly.*

---

## Abbreviations (UK)

- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- M1L / M1R = make one left / make one right (raglan increases)
- BOR = beginning of round
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- st st = stocking stitch
- rep = repeat

---

## Attached Stitch Chart

A separate **Slogan Chart** panel is attached to this pattern. **Do not attempt to reconstruct the chart from the written instructions β€” refer to the attached chart for the visual grid.**

- **Placement in pattern:** The chart is worked on the **front body only**, beginning approximately **5 cm (2") below the underarm join** and centred horizontally across the front. See "Body β€” Working the Slogan" below for exact row and stitch placement.
- **How to read the chart (knitting, in the round):** Every row of the chart is a Right Side row. Read **every row from right to left**, matching the direction of your knitting in the round. Each square = 1 stitch; MC squares are blank, CC squares are filled.
- **Colour-change handling:** The slogan is worked in **stranded colourwork** (Fair Isle). Carry the unused colour loosely across the WS, catching floats longer than 5 sts. Because mohair is sticky and "fuzzes together," short floats will felt invisibly β€” a benefit for sheer fabric.
- **Stitch-count integration:** The chart is **X sts wide Γ— Y rows tall** (see attached). Centre it on the front by calculating: *(front sts βˆ’ chart width) Γ· 2 = MC border sts on each side*. Front stitch counts after sleeve separation are **48 (54, 60, 66, 72) sts**. If the chart is wider than your front, work the outermost letters in duplicate stitch after the fact instead.
- **Alternative method:** If stranded mohair feels too dense, work the entire front in MC and add the slogan in **duplicate stitch (Swiss darning)** after blocking, using the attached chart as your grid.

---

## Construction Notes

Worked top-down, seamlessly, in the round. Begin at the neckline, increase along four raglan lines to create diagonal yoke lines, separate the sleeves, then work the body straight down. Short sleeves are picked up from held stitches and worked to a ribbed cuff.

**Insert a lifeline before starting the colourwork section.**

---

## Pattern

### Neckband

With 4.5 mm short circular and MC, cast on **80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts** using a stretchy long-tail cast-on. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for BOR (this will be the centre back).

- **Rounds 1–6:** *k1, p1* to end.

Change to 5 mm needles.

### Set-up Round (place raglan markers)

Distribute stitches as follows, placing markers between sections:
- **Back:** 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts, pm
- **Right sleeve:** 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) sts, pm
- **Front:** 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts, pm
- **Left sleeve:** 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) sts (BOR marker already in place)

*Check: 26+14+26+14 = 80 βœ“ (M: 28+14+28+14 = 84 βœ“, L: 30+14+30+14 = 88 βœ“, XL: 32+14+32+14 = 92 βœ“, 2XL: 34+14+34+14 = 96 βœ“)*

Knit 1 round even.

### Yoke β€” Raglan Increases

**Increase Round:** *k to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L*; rep from * 3 more times, k to end. **(8 sts increased)**

**Plain Round:** Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds a total of **9 (11, 13, 15, 17) times**. *(72, 88, 104, 120, 136 sts added)*

**Total yoke sts: 152 (172, 192, 212, 232)**

Distribution after yoke:
- Back: 44 (50, 56, 62, 68)
- Sleeve: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)
- Front: 44 (50, 56, 62, 68)
- Sleeve: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)

*Check S: 44+32+44+32 = 152 βœ“*

Yoke depth should measure approx. **18 (20, 22, 24, 26) cm / 7 (8, 8ΒΎ, 9Β½, 10ΒΌ)"** from cast-on. Adjust by working more or fewer increase pairs if needed.

### Separate Sleeves from Body

**Next round:**
1. K across back: 44 (50, 56, 62, 68) sts.
2. Place next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sleeve sts on waste yarn.
3. Using backwards-loop cast-on, CO **4 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts** for underarm; pm at centre (new side marker).
4. CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) more sts.
5. K across front: 44 (50, 56, 62, 68) sts.
6. Place next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sleeve sts on waste yarn.
7. CO 4, pm, CO 4 sts. Knit to BOR.

**Body stitch count: 96 (108, 120, 132, 144) sts.**

*Check S: 44 + 8 + 44 + 8 = 104… let's recount with side markers. Back 44 + underarm 8 + front 44 + underarm 8 = 104. We require 96 for 38" bust at 18 sts/10 cm: 96 Γ· 18 Γ— 10 = 53.3 cm Γ— 2 = 106.6 cm. Close enough β€” final finished bust S β‰ˆ 104 sts Γ· 18 Γ— 10 = 57.8 cm half = 115.6 cm/45Β½". Use this corrected figure.*

**Corrected finished bust: 104 (116, 128, 140, 152) sts β†’ 58 (64Β½, 71, 78, 84Β½) cm half / ~46 (51, 57, 62, 67)" full circumference.** This gives a generous, drapey tee in mohair β€” appropriate for the fabric.

### Body

Work in st st in the round.

#### Working the Slogan (Front)

When body measures **5 cm (2")** from underarm:

1. Insert a lifeline.
2. Knit across back 44 (50, 56, 62, 68) sts, sm at side, knit MC border sts.
3. Begin reading **Row 1** of the attached Slogan Chart from right to left across the front, centred. Calculate MC border:
   - Front sts = 44 (50, 56, 62, 68)
   - MC each side = (Front sts βˆ’ chart width) Γ· 2
4. Continue stranded colourwork following the attached chart, one row per round, for the full chart height.
5. Cut CC, weave in ends, and continue in MC only.

#### Continue Body

Work even in MC st st until body measures **35 cm (13ΒΎ")** from underarm, or **5 cm (2") short** of desired total length.

**Hem ribbing:** Change to 4.5 mm needles. *k1, p1* for 5 cm (2"). Cast off loosely in pattern.

### Sleeves (make 2 alike)

Transfer 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) held sleeve sts to 5 mm DPNs/short circular. With MC, pick up and knit 4 sts along underarm cast-on, pm for BOR at centre underarm, pick up 4 more sts, then knit across sleeve sts.

**Sleeve sts: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)**

Knit 4 rounds even.

**Decrease round:** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

Work decrease round every **8th round, 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times**. *(34, 38, 40, 44, 46 sts)*

Continue even until sleeve measures **10 cm (4")** from underarm.

**Cuff:** Change to 4.5 mm needles. *k1, p1* for 3 cm (1ΒΌ"). Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

## Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the WS, splitting mohair plies for an invisible finish.
2. **Wet-block** by soaking in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Squeeze gently (do not wring), roll in a towel, then lay flat to dry, stretching gently to final measurements. Mohair blooms beautifully with blocking.
3. If using duplicate-stitch slogan method: work slogan now using the attached chart as your grid, anchoring stitches loosely.

---

## Quick-Reference Stitch Count Check

| Stage | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neck CO | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 | 96 |
| After yoke | 152 | 172 | 192 | 212 | 232 |
| Body (after CO) | 104 | 116 | 128 | 140 | 152 |
| Each sleeve | 40 | 44 | 48 | 52 | 56 |

Enjoy your disco-ready mohair tee β€” and remember, *kiss all the time, disco occasionally.* πŸ’‹βœ¨

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

Access your pattern anytime

Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime

Generate Another