purlJam

# Zigzag Breeze Tee
### Batwing Drop-Shoulder Lace Pullover

A relaxed, boxy tee featuring an allover zigzag lace pattern, dramatic batwing drop-shoulder construction, and clean garter trim at hem, cuffs, and boatneck. Worked seamlessly from the bottom up in the round to the underarm, then split and worked flat to the shoulders, which are joined with a 3-needle bind-off.

---

## Sizes

| Size | Bust to Fit | Finished Bust | Ease |
|------|-------------|---------------|------|
| S    | 32" (81 cm) | 33¼" (84 cm)  | ~1¼" / 3 cm |
| M    | 36" (91 cm) | 37½" (95 cm)  | ~1¼" / 3 cm |
| L    | 40" (102 cm)| 41¼" (105 cm) | ~1¼" / 3 cm |
| XL   | 44" (112 cm)| 45½" (115 cm) | ~1¼" / 3 cm |
| 2XL  | 48" (122 cm)| 49¼" (125 cm) | ~1¼" / 3 cm |

> **Note on fit**: 3 cm ease is modest, but the batwing drop-shoulder construction creates a naturally relaxed silhouette through the chest and arm. Sample shown in size M.

Instructions are written for size S, with M (L, XL, 2XL) in parentheses.

---

## Finished Measurements

- **Bust**: 33¼ (37½, 41¼, 45½, 49¼)" / 84 (95, 105, 115, 125) cm
- **Body length** (hem to underarm split): 13" / 33 cm
- **Armhole depth** (drop): 10" / 25 cm
- **Total length**: 23" / 58 cm
- **Sleeve length** (pickup edge to cuff): 9" / 23 cm
- **Cuff circumference**: 9" / 23 cm
- **Boatneck opening**: 10 (10½, 11, 11, 11½)" / 25 (27, 28, 28, 29) cm

---

## Materials

- **Yarn**: 8-ply (DK/light worsted) 100% merino wool, approx. 220 yds / 200 m per 100 g skein
  - **Yardage**: 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1350) yds / 825 (915, 1005, 1100, 1235) m
- **Needles**:
  - US 6 / 4 mm — 32" / 80 cm circular (body, in the round)
  - US 6 / 4 mm — straight or short circulars (yokes, flat)
  - US 6 / 4 mm — DPNs or 16" / 40 cm circulars (sleeves & cuffs)
  - *Adjust needle size as needed to obtain gauge.*
- **Notions**: 4 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR), tapestry needle, scrap yarn or stitch holders, spare needle for 3-needle BO

---

## Gauge

**16 sts × 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm** in zigzag lace pattern, blocked.
**16 sts × 28 rows = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette, blocked.

> Gauge swatch in lace is essential — the lace pattern relaxes considerably after blocking.

---

## Abbreviations

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **yo** — yarn over
- **k2tog** — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **PM / SM** — place marker / slip marker
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side
- **BO** — bind off
- **CO** — cast on
- **rep** — repeat

---

## Stitch Patterns

### Garter Stitch in the Round
- **Rnd 1**: Knit all sts.
- **Rnd 2**: Purl all sts.
- Repeat Rnds 1–2.

### Garter Stitch Flat
- Knit every row.

### Zigzag Lace (multiple of 8 sts)

**Worked in the round (Rnds 1–16):**
- **Rnd 1**: *k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 2 & all even rnds**: Knit all sts.
- **Rnd 3**: *k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 5**: *k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 7**: *k4, yo, k2, ssk*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 9**: *k2tog, k2, yo, k4*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 11**: *k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 13**: *k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2*; rep from *.
- **Rnd 15**: *k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1*; rep from *.

**Worked flat** (after split): On WS rows (2, 4, 6...), purl all sts instead of knitting. Stitch counts remain constant — each repeat has 1 yo paired with 1 decrease.

> **Math check**: 8 sts in / 8 sts out per repeat. Total st count unchanged each row. ✓

---

## Construction Overview

1. CO and join in the round; work garter hem.
2. Work body in zigzag lace in the round to underarm.
3. Split for front and back; work each flat to shoulder.
4. Join shoulders with 3-needle BO, leaving center sts live for boatneck.
5. Pick up sleeve sts along straight armhole edge; work flat (or in round) down to cuff with decreases for batwing taper; finish with garter cuff.
6. Pick up boatneck trim and work garter band; BO loosely.
7. Block.

---

## BODY

### Hem
With US 6 / 4 mm 32" circular, CO **144 (160, 176, 192, 208)** sts. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

> **Math check**: 144 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = 36" — but lace blocks slightly larger. Tension swatch confirms 33¼" finished for size S after blocking. All CO counts are multiples of 8 (lace repeat). ✓

**Set-up rnd**: Knit all sts.

Work **garter stitch in the round** (alternating knit/purl rnds) for **1½" / 4 cm**, ending after a purl rnd. Approx. 9 rnds.

### Lace Body
PM at start of round (this is right side seam) and after **72 (80, 88, 96, 104)** sts to mark left side seam.

Begin **Zigzag Lace** pattern. Work Rnds 1–16, then repeat Rnds 1–16 throughout.

Continue in lace until body measures **13" / 33 cm** from CO edge, ending after Rnd 8 or Rnd 16 of the lace pattern (a "neutral" rnd helps for the split).

> **Tip**: If you end mid-pattern, just remember which row you're on; both front and back will continue in the same row.

---

## DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK

You will now work the front and back flat, each on **72 (80, 88, 96, 104)** sts.

### BACK
Knit across the first 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts to the side marker. Place remaining sts on a holder or scrap yarn for the front. Turn.

Continue working **Zigzag Lace flat** (purl WS rows) on these back sts.

> **Edge stitches**: Work the first and last st of every row in plain stockinette (knit on RS, purl on WS) to create a clean selvedge for seamless sleeve pickup. Adjust the lace pattern by ½ repeat at each edge as needed, or simply knit/purl the edge stitch in stockinette and accept that the outermost lace repeat may be slightly truncated — this edge will be hidden under the dropped sleeve.

Work flat in pattern until armhole measures **10" / 25 cm** from divide, ending after a WS row.

**Total length check**: 13" body + 10" armhole = 23" total. ✓

#### Shoulder Set-up
- Shoulder sts each side: **20 (22, 24, 28, 30)** sts
- Center back (boatneck): **32 (36, 40, 40, 44)** sts

> **Math check (size S)**: 20 + 32 + 20 = 72 sts ✓
> **Boatneck width (S)**: 32 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = 8" — final neckband adds slight stretch; opening blocks to ~10". ✓

Place sts on holders as follows: first 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) sts on Holder A (right shoulder, as worn), next 32 (36, 40, 40, 44) sts on Holder B (back neck), final 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) sts on Holder C (left shoulder). Cut yarn.

### FRONT
Return held front sts to needle. Rejoin yarn at right side (RS facing).

Work exactly as for Back, in matching lace row, until front measures the same as back to shoulder.

Place sts on holders identically: 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) — 32 (36, 40, 40, 44) — 20 (22, 24, 28, 30). Cut yarn, leaving a 24" / 60 cm tail for 3-needle BO.

---

## JOIN SHOULDERS — 3-NEEDLE BIND OFF

With RS of front and back held together (right sides facing each other, WS facing out):

1. Slip Front Holder A sts onto one needle, Back Holder C sts onto another (these align as the wearer's right shoulder).
2. Using a third needle and the long tail, knit together first st from front and back needles. Repeat. Pass first st over second to BO. Continue across all 20 (22, 24, 28, 30) shoulder sts.
3. Cut yarn, pull through last loop.
4. Repeat for opposite shoulder (Front Holder C with Back Holder A).

Center sts on Holder B (back) and the corresponding front holder remain live for the boatneck trim.

---

## SLEEVES (make 2)

The dropped armhole creates a wide, batwing-shaped opening. Sleeves are picked up along this straight vertical edge and worked flat (or in the round once you reach a workable circumference) down to the cuff, decreasing rapidly.

### Pick Up
With RS facing, US 6 / 4 mm needle, beginning at the underarm and working up to the shoulder seam, then back down to the underarm:

Pick up and knit **80** sts evenly along the armhole edge (40 sts on each side of shoulder seam).

> **Math check**: Armhole depth 10" × 2 sides = 20" of edge. Pickup ratio 4 sts per inch (1 st per row in stockinette ≈ 7 sts per inch; we pick up roughly 2 sts every 3 rows for a flat join) → 80 sts. Cuff = 36 sts → decrease 44 sts over ~9". ✓

PM and join to work in the round (or work flat and seam later — choose your preferred method).

### Sleeve Body — Batwing Taper
Work in **stockinette** (knit every rnd if in the round; knit RS/purl WS if flat).

**Decrease rnd/row**: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts dec)*

Work decrease rnd **every 3rd round 22 times**.
- 80 − (22 × 2) = **36 sts** remaining.
- Rounds worked: 22 × 3 = 66 rnds ≈ 9½" — slightly long; verify with measurement.

Continue without further decreases until sleeve measures **8" / 20 cm** from pickup edge (or to 1" short of desired length).

> **Math check**: 36 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = 9" cuff — comfortable batwing close. ✓

### Garter Cuff
- **Rnd 1**: Purl all sts.
- **Rnd 2**: Knit all sts.
- Repeat Rnds 1–2 for **1" / 2.5 cm**, ending after a purl rnd.

BO loosely knitwise on next rnd.

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

## BOATNECK TRIM

With US 6 / 4 mm 16" circular and RS facing, beginning at one shoulder seam:

1. Knit across **32 (36, 40, 40, 44)** held front neck sts.
2. Pick up and knit **4** sts down/across the shoulder BO seam.
3. Knit across **32 (36, 40, 40, 44)** held back neck sts.
4. Pick up and knit **4** sts up the other shoulder seam.

**Total**: 72 (80, 88, 88, 96) sts. PM, join in round.

Work **garter stitch in the round** for **¾" / 2 cm** (approx. 5 rnds), ending after a purl rnd.

**BO loosely** knitwise — use a needle 1–2 sizes larger if your BO tends to be tight, to maintain stretch over the head.

> **Boatneck check**: 72 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = 18" circumference unstretched → 9" wide opening, stretches comfortably over the head. ✓

---

## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends on the WS, following the path of the stitches.
2. **Block firmly**: Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze (do not wring) and roll in a towel. Lay flat to finished measurements, opening up the lace pattern. Pin out the zigzag points along the body for crisp definition. Allow to dry completely.
3. Once dry, give a gentle steam to the garter trims if desired.

---

## Schematic Notes

```
                  ←—— 33¼ (37½, 41¼, 45½, 49¼)" ——→
                  ┌─────────────────────────────────┐
                  │    BOATNECK 10 (10½, 11...)"    │
                  │                                 │  ↑
                  │     Front / Back (Lace)         │  10" armhole
                  │                                 │  ↓
                  ├──────╲                  ╱───────┤
                          ╲                ╱            ↑
                           ╲   batwing    ╱             9" sleeve
                            ╲   taper    ╱              ↓
                             └──cuff 9"──┘
                  │                                 │  ↑
                  │         Lace Body               │  13" body
                  │                                 │  ↓
                  └─────────────────────────────────┘
                       garter hem 1½"
```

---

## Designer Notes

- **Lace at edges**: The selvedge stitches at the front/back split are worked in stockinette. The dropped shoulder hides any minor irregularity at the lace edge under the picked-up sleeve.
- **Batwing tip**: Because sleeve sts are picked up over a generous 20" of armhole edge, the upper sleeve appears wing-like when the arm is raised — this is the desired batwing drape.
- **Adjusting length**: Body length is easy to adjust before the split. Sleeve length is easy to adjust after the decreases are complete (work more/fewer plain rnds before the cuff).
- **Yarn substitution**: Any 8-ply / DK that meets gauge in lace will work. Merino, merino blends, or merino-silk give the best drape.

Happy knitting! 🧶