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# EASY BREEZY SOCK YARN KIMONO

A relaxed, beginner-friendly kimono sweater worked in soft sock yarn. This classic T-shaped design features simple rectangular construction with no complex shaping, making it perfect for your first garment project. The lightweight fabric drapes beautifully and works up surprisingly quickly in half double crochet.

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Fingering weight (superfine/#1) sock yarn
- Yardage needed:
  - Size S/M: 1400-1600 yards
  - Size L/XL: 1700-1900 yards  
  - Size 2XL/3XL: 2000-2300 yards
- Suggested yarns: Any fingering/sock weight in wool, wool blend, cotton, or bamboo blend

**Hook:** US D-3 (3.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**
- Yarn needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Optional: 1 large decorative button or fabric for ties

## GAUGE

20 hdc and 16 rows = 4" (10cm) in half double crochet, blocked

**Gauge is important for proper fit.** Take time to make a swatch at least 6" square, block it, then measure. Adjust hook size if needed: larger hook for fewer stitches per inch, smaller hook for more stitches per inch.

## SIZES

**S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL)**

**Finished Measurements:**
- **Bust circumference:** 42 (50, 58)" — worn with 8-12" positive ease
- **Body length:** 24" from shoulder to hem (easily adjustable)
- **Sleeve length:** 18" from shoulder seam to cuff (easily adjustable)
- **Sleeve width:** 14" (same for all sizes)

**To choose your size:** Measure your actual bust, then add 8-12" for a relaxed, kimono fit. Choose the size closest to this number.

## ABBREVIATIONS

- ch = chain
- hdc = half double crochet
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- ( ) = repeat instructions within parentheses
- [ ] = stitch count at end of row

## NOTES

**Construction:** This kimono is worked in 5 flat pieces (back, left front, right front, and 2 sleeves), then seamed together. All pieces are simple rectangles with minimal shaping.

**Stitch Pattern:** The entire garment uses basic half double crochet. The foundation chain counts as the first row.

**Turning Chains:** Ch 2 at the beginning of each row counts as the first hdc. At the end of each row, work the last hdc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row.

**Right vs. Wrong Side:** The right side (RS) is the side facing you when you begin Row 1. You may find the RS slightly smoother. Mark the RS with a safety pin or stitch marker to keep track.

**Adjusting Length:** Body and sleeve length are easily customized. To adjust:
- Each row adds approximately 1/4"
- To add 2", work 8 additional rows
- To shorten by 2", work 8 fewer rows
- Stop frequently to measure your work

**Yarn Considerations:** Sock yarn creates a lightweight, drapey fabric perfect for layering. The garment will be less dense than a worsted weight sweater. Blocking is essential to open up the fabric and enhance drape.

**Beginner Tips:**
- Keep your tension consistent throughout
- Count your stitches at the end of each row
- Use stitch markers every 20 stitches to make counting easier
- Don't worry about perfect edges—the border will cover them

## BACK BODY

The back is a simple rectangle worked from bottom hem to shoulder.

**Foundation:** Ch 106 (126, 146).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs count as first hdc) and in each ch across. [105 (125, 145) hdc]

*Count your stitches! This count is crucial for the entire piece.*

**Rows 2-96:** Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), turn, hdc in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in top of turning ch. [105 (125, 145) hdc]

**Row count check:** After Row 96, piece should measure approximately 24" from foundation. Adjust row count if needed to reach desired length.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Verification math:** 
- Width: 105 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 21" ✓
- Width: 125 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 25" ✓
- Width: 145 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 29" ✓
- Length: 96 rows ÷ 4 rows/inch = 24" ✓

## LEFT FRONT

The left front is worked as a rectangle that is slightly less than half the back width, creating a center front opening.

**Foundation:** Ch 51 (61, 71).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. [50 (60, 70) hdc]

**Rows 2-96:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in top of turning ch. [50 (60, 70) hdc]

**Row count check:** Piece should match back body length (approximately 24").

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Verification math:**
- Width: 50 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 10" ✓
- Width: 60 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 12" ✓
- Width: 70 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 14" ✓
- Combined front width: 20" (24", 28") — slightly less than back for overlap ✓

## RIGHT FRONT

Work exactly as for Left Front.

**Foundation:** Ch 51 (61, 71).

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. [50 (60, 70) hdc]

**Rows 2-96:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in top of turning ch. [50 (60, 70) hdc]

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

## SLEEVES

Make 2 identical sleeves. Sleeves are wide rectangles with NO tapering (traditional kimono style).

**Foundation:** Ch 71.

**Row 1 (RS):** Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. [70 hdc]

**Rows 2-72:** Ch 2, turn, hdc in next st and in each st across, ending with hdc in top of turning ch. [70 hdc]

**Measurements:** Piece should measure approximately 14" wide × 18" long.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Verification math:**
- Width: 70 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 14" ✓
- Length: 72 rows ÷ 4 rows/inch = 18" ✓

## ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces before seaming. Lay pieces flat, spritz with water or use steam, and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely. This step dramatically improves the drape and evens out your stitches.

**Step 1: Shoulder Seams**

Lay back body flat with RS facing up. Place left front and right front pieces RS up on top of back, aligning the top (shoulder) edges. The fronts will not meet in the center—this is correct.

Using yarn needle and mattress stitch (or whip stitch for beginners), seam:
- Left front to back: seam the top 7 (8, 9)" of the left edge
- Right front to back: seam the top 7 (8, 9)" of the right edge

This leaves a center neck opening of approximately 7 (9, 11)".

**Step 2: Attach Sleeves**

This is the defining feature of kimono construction—sleeves attach perpendicular to the body.

Fold one sleeve in half to find the center point of the 14" width (mark with a pin). Place this center point at the shoulder seam. The sleeve will extend equally on the front and back.

Pin the entire 14" edge of the sleeve to the body, perpendicular to the shoulder seam (forming a T-shape). The sleeve edge will extend 7" onto the front and 7" onto the back.

Using mattress stitch or whip stitch, seam the sleeve to the body along the pinned edge.

Repeat for second sleeve.

**Step 3: Side and Sleeve Seams**

Fold the garment in half at the shoulder with RS together.

Starting at the bottom hem, seam the side seam up to where the sleeve attaches. Continue seaming along the underside of the sleeve to the cuff.

Repeat for the other side.

Turn garment right side out.

## FRONT BANDS

This simple edging finishes the raw edges and creates a polished look.

**Round 1:** With RS facing, join yarn at bottom right front corner. Ch 1, sc evenly around entire front opening and neckline as follows:

- Work up right front edge, working approximately 3 sc for every 4 row-ends
- Work across back neck edge, working 1 sc in each st
- Work down left front edge, working approximately 3 sc for every 4 row-ends

Join with sl st to first sc. (Total sc count will vary, but should be divisible by 2 for a neat corner)

**Round 2:** Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

**Optional Cuff Edging:**

For a more finished look, work 1 round of sc around each sleeve cuff:
- Join yarn at sleeve seam, ch 1
- Sc evenly around cuff edge (approximately 70 sc)
- Join with sl st to first sc, fasten off

Repeat for second sleeve.

## FINISHING

**Weave in all remaining ends** using a yarn needle. For security, weave ends through several stitches in different directions, then trim close to fabric.

**Final Blocking:** Give the completed garment a final blocking. Lay flat, shape to measurements, spritz with water, and allow to dry. Pay special attention to the sleeve edges and front bands to ensure they lie flat.

**Closure Options:**

This kimono is designed to be worn open, but you may add:

1. **Fabric Ties:** Cut two 30" lengths of yarn. Braid or twist each length, securing ends with knots. Attach one tie to each front at bust level.

2. **Single Button:** Sew a large decorative button to the left front at bust level. Create a button loop on the right front using a chain stitch loop.

3. **Belt or Sash:** Wear with a fabric sash or belt tied at the waist.

**Care Instructions:** Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap. Roll in a towel to remove excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to dry, reshaping to measurements.

**Congratulations!** You've completed your first kimono sweater. The simple construction and beautiful drape make this a versatile layering piece you'll reach for again and again.

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**Design Notes:** This pattern features true kimono construction with rectangular pieces, no armhole shaping, and perpendicular sleeve attachment. The T-shaped silhouette provides a relaxed, modern fit that's flattering on many body types. Sock yarn creates an elegant, lightweight fabric perfect for three-season wear.