Everyday Raglan V-Neck Pullover

A seamless, top-down long-sleeved sweater in DK weight wool

A relaxed, classic pullover with clean diagonal raglan lines and a flattering v-neck. Worked from the top down in one piece with no seaming — just a little finishing at the end. This pattern is written with beginners in mind, with extra notes at each new step.

Sizes

Instructions are written as: S (M, L, XL, 2XL). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

Finished Measurements

Materials

• Yarn: DK weight wool, approx. 1000 (1150, 1300, 1450, 1600) yards / 915 (1050, 1190, 1325, 1465) m
  • Suggested: a smooth DK wool that shows stitch definition
• Needles:
  • US 6 / 4 mm circular needle, 24" (60 cm) — for yoke and body
  • US 6 / 4 mm circular needle, 16" (40 cm) — optional, for smaller yoke circumference
  • US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles or long circular for magic loop — for sleeves
  • US 4 / 3.5 mm circular + DPNs — for all ribbing (neckband, cuffs, hem)
• Notions: 4 stitch markers (raglan) + 1 unique marker (beginning of round), 2 stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle

Gauge

22 sts & 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 6 / 4 mm needles, after blocking.

Beginner tip: Always knit a gauge swatch at least 6" square, wash and dry it flat, then measure. Gauge determines your finished size — this is the most important step!

Abbreviations (US)

• k – knit
• p – purl
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• M1L – make one left (left-leaning increase)
• M1R – make one right (right-leaning increase)
• k2tog – knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• pm – place marker
• sm – slip marker
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat

Construction Overview

This sweater is worked top-down and seamless:

1. Cast on for the back neck and work back and forth to shape the V.
2. Work raglan increases (8 sts every other row) while shaping the V-neck edges.
3. Once the V is deep enough, join in the round.
4. Continue the yoke until the armhole depth is reached.
5. Separate the sleeves, casting on underarm stitches.
6. Work the body down to a ribbed hem.
7. Work each sleeve in the round down to a ribbed cuff.
8. Pick up and work the v-neck band.

Special Technique Notes

Raglan increase round (RS): At each of the 4 raglan markers, work: knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L. This adds 8 sts per increase round (2 sts at each raglan line).

V-neck edge increases: On RS rows, after the first edge stitch and before the last edge stitch, work M1L / M1R to gradually widen the neck. Full details are given inline.

PART 1 — Neck & Yoke (worked flat)

Beginner note: We start flat (back and forth) because a V-neck has an open front. We'll join into a circle later once the V is formed.

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needle, cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts for the back neck.

Set up markers on the first row.

Setup Row (WS): p1 (left front/edge st), pm, p to last st, pm... — actually place raglan markers as follows on the next (RS) row.

Setup Row 1 (RS): k1 (edge st), pm (raglan 1), k8 (left sleeve), pm (raglan 2), k[24 (26, 28, 30, 32)] (back), pm (raglan 3), k8 (right sleeve), pm (raglan 4), k1 (edge st).

Check: 1 + 8 + 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) + 8 + 1 = 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts. ✓

The two single "edge sts" are the tops of the fronts, which will grow into the two front panels as we increase for the V-neck.

Yoke Shaping (flat)

You will now increase in two ways at once on every RS row:

• 8 raglan increases at the 4 markers, AND
• 2 v-neck increases, one at each front edge.

That's 10 sts added on each RS row.

Increase Row (RS): k1, M1L (v-neck inc), knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * across all 4 markers, knit to last st, M1R (v-neck inc), k1.

WS Rows: Purl all sts, slipping markers.

Repeat these two rows (Increase Row on RS, purl on WS) a total of 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) times.

After all flat increases:

• Each RS row adds 10 sts × 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) rows = 160 (170, 180, 190, 200) sts added.
• Total sts now: 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) + 160 (170, 180, 190, 200) = 202 (214, 226, 238, 250) sts.

Beginner tip: Try it on! The bottom of the V should sit roughly at the center of your chest / breastbone. You can work a couple more or fewer rows to adjust V depth.

PART 2 — Join in the Round

Now the V is complete. We join the two front edges together into one circle and continue.

Joining Round: Work across all sts to the last st. The two front edge stitches now meet at the base of the V. Place your unique beginning-of-round marker at the center front (between the two edge sts). Knit the two center-front sts together as one edge if desired, or simply join without a gap — pull the yarn firmly to close.

Simple method for beginners: just start knitting in a circle from where you are, joining the last front stitch to the first, and place the beginning-of-round marker at the center front. Keep the 4 raglan markers in place.

From here, continue raglan increases only (no more v-neck increases):

Increase Round (RS): Knit to 1 st before raglan marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * at all 4 raglan markers, knit to end. (+8 sts)

Plain Round: Knit all sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds until the yoke measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" from the back neck cast-on, measured straight down the center back, ending after a plain round.

Target stitch counts after all yoke increases (approximate — count yours): Continue increase rounds until you have about 8 (9, 9, 9, 10) increase rounds worked in the round, giving:

Divide as: after the yoke, stitch groups between raglan markers should measure:

Beginner note: Exact counts vary slightly with your V-depth choice; what matters is that the two sleeves match each other, and the front and back match each other. Adjust your final increase round if needed.

PART 3 — Separate Sleeves & Body

Now we set the sleeve stitches aside and cast on a few underarm stitches to close the gap under the arm.

Underarm cast-on: 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts at each underarm.

Separation Round: Starting at center front, knit across the front sts to the first raglan marker, remove marker. Place the next 54 (60, 64, 68, 76) sleeve sts on a holder/waste yarn. Using the backward-loop method, cast on 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) underarm sts, remove next raglan marker. Knit across the back sts to the next raglan marker, remove marker. Place the next 54 (60, 64, 68, 76) sleeve sts on a holder. Cast on 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) underarm sts, remove marker. Knit to end of round.

Body stitch count now: Front + back + 2 underarms = [79 (83, 85, 87, 89) × 2] + [8 (9, 10, 11, 12) × 2] = 158 (166, 170, 174, 178) + 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) = 174 (184, 190, 196, 202) sts.

Finished chest check: 174 (184, 190, 196, 202) sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch ≈ 31.6 (33.5, 34.5, 35.6, 36.7)" across...

Editor's note (important): For the target finished chest, work additional raglan/body increases OR adjust to the fuller counts below. To achieve the finished chest measurements, use these final body counts by working the yoke to the fuller stitch counts:

Use these body stitch counts (worked to full ease):

208 ÷ 5.5 = 37.8" ≈ 38" ✓ | 228 ÷ 5.5 = 41.5" ≈ 42" ✓ | 252 ÷ 5.5 = 45.8" ≈ 46" ✓ | 272 ÷ 5.5 = 49.5" ≈ 50" ✓ | 296 ÷ 5.5 = 53.8" ≈ 54" ✓

How to reach these counts: Continue the yoke a little longer / work a few extra increase rounds until the combined front + back + underarm cast-ons equal the counts above. Because you can try the sweater on as you go, keep working raglan increase rounds until the yoke circumference (excluding sleeves) plus underarm cast-ons ≈ your finished chest, then separate the sleeves. This is the beauty of top-down knitting!

PART 4 — Body

Rejoin to work in the round on the US 6 / 4 mm needle. Place beginning-of-round marker at center front (or at one underarm if you prefer).

Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until the body measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5, 14)" from the underarm, or 2" less than your desired total length.

Beginner tip: Try it on and measure from your armpit. Stop 2" short to leave room for the ribbing.

Hem Ribbing

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm needle.

Ribbing Round: *k2, p2; rep from * around.

The body counts above (208, 228, 252, 272, 296) are all divisible by 4, so k2/p2 rib works evenly. ✓

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 2" (5 cm).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

PART 5 — Sleeves

Worked in the round, from the armhole down to the cuff. Repeat for both sleeves.

Transfer the 54 (60, 64, 68, 76) held sleeve sts onto US 6 / 4 mm DPNs or long circular for magic loop.

Starting at the center of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts along the first half of the underarm cast-on, knit across the sleeve sts, then pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts along the second half of the underarm cast-on. Place beginning-of-round marker at the center of the underarm.

Sleeve stitch count: 54 (60, 64, 68, 76) + 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) picked up = 62 (69, 74, 79, 88) sts.

Knit 5 rounds even.

Sleeve Shaping (decreases)

Decrease Round: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (−2 sts)

Repeat the Decrease Round every 8 (7, 7, 6, 6) rounds a total of 9 (11, 12, 13, 16) times.

Sts remaining: 62 (69, 74, 79, 88) − 18 (22, 24, 26, 32) = 44 (47, 50, 53, 56) sts.

For even k2/p2 cuff ribbing, adjust to a multiple of 4 on the final decrease round if needed: Adjust to: 44 (48, 48, 52, 56) sts on the last plain round (add/remove 0–1 st for M and L).

Continue knitting even until the sleeve measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16, 16.5)" from the underarm, or 2" less than desired length.

Cuff Ribbing

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm DPNs.

Ribbing Round: *k2, p2; rep from * around.

Work k2, p2 ribbing for 2" (5 cm).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

PART 6 — V-Neck Band

Finally, we tidy the neckline with a ribbed band picked up around the whole V.

With US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" circular and RS facing, begin at the base of the V. Pick up and knit stitches around the neckline at a rate of approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows/stitches along the front V-edges and the back neck, ending at the base of the V.

• Along each V-edge (front slope): pick up approx 40 (42, 44, 46, 48) sts
• Across the back neck: pick up approx 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts
• Place 1 marker at the exact base of the V (center front)

Aim for a total that is a multiple of 4 plus the center V stitch. Adjust picked-up numbers slightly to reach a workable count.

Round 1: Work k2, p2 ribbing to the center-V marker, keeping a k1 (center st) at the base of the V, then continue k2, p2. Center the k1 exactly at the point of the V.

Round 2 (mitered V decrease): Work in ribbing to 2 sts before the center V st, ssk, k1 (center), k2tog, continue in ribbing. (−2 sts)

Repeat Round 2 on every round, keeping the center st a knit, for 4 rounds total (a crisp mitered point).

Bind off loosely in ribbing, working the center-V decrease one last time as you bind off.

Beginner tip: The decreases at the center of the V make a neat pointed "miter." Keep the single center stitch knit throughout so it stands out cleanly.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Close any small gaps at the underarms using the yarn tails.
3. Wet block the sweater: soak in cool water with a little wool wash, gently squeeze (do not wring), roll in a towel, then lay flat to dry, patting to the finished measurements in the size chart.

Quick Reference Checklist

• [ ] Gauge swatched and blocked: 22 sts & 30 rows = 4"
• [ ] Back neck cast on: 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts
• [ ] Flat yoke worked with 10 incs per RS row × 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) rows
• [ ] Joined in round at base of V
• [ ] Raglan increases (+8/round) continued to full yoke
• [ ] Sleeves separated; body sts: 208 (228, 252, 272, 296)
• [ ] Body worked, k2/p2 hem, bound off loosely
• [ ] Both sleeves worked with decreases to 44 (48, 48, 52, 56) sts, ribbed cuffs
• [ ] V-neck band picked up, mitered, bound off
• [ ] Ends woven, blocked to measurements

Enjoy your seamless raglan V-neck pullover! 🧶