purlJam

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# ROLL NECK RAGLAN PULLOVER
### Women's Seamless Top-Down Sweater in Worsted Weight Wool

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## AT A GLANCE

A cozy, classic women's pullover featuring a generous folded turtleneck (roll neck), seamless top-down raglan construction, and an easy all-over stockinette body. The relaxed fit and stretchy ribbing make this a go-to wardrobe staple. Perfect for beginner knitters ready to try their first seamless sweater.

**Difficulty:** Beginner–Intermediate (you'll learn top-down raglan shaping)
**Construction:** Seamless, top-down raglan
**Neck Style:** Turtleneck / Roll neck (folds over, approx. 7" folded height)
**Fit:** Relaxed — approx. 3" positive ease

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## SIZES

| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust | Finished Length |
|------|------------|---------------|-----------------|
| S | 34–36" (86–91 cm) | 37" (94 cm) | 24" (61 cm) |
| M | 38–40" (97–102 cm) | 41" (104 cm) | 24.5" (62 cm) |
| L | 42–44" (107–112 cm) | 45" (114 cm) | 25" (63.5 cm) |
| XL | 46–48" (117–122 cm) | 49" (124.5 cm) | 25.5" (65 cm) |
| 2XL | 50–52" (127–132 cm) | 53" (134.5 cm) | 26" (66 cm) |

*Instructions are written for size Small, with larger sizes in parentheses: S (M, L, XL, 2XL).*
*When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.*

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 8 ply / Worsted weight wool (soft, skin-friendly fiber recommended — merino, superwash merino, or merino blend)

> 💡 **Yarn Note:** Because the turtleneck sits against your neck and chin all day, choose the softest yarn you can find. Look for labels that say "superwash merino," "merino blend," or "extra fine merino." Avoid rough or scratchy wools for this project.

| Size | Approx. Yardage | Approx. Weight |
|------|----------------|----------------|
| S | 1,000 yds (915 m) | 300 g |
| M | 1,150 yds (1,052 m) | 350 g |
| L | 1,300 yds (1,189 m) | 400 g |
| XL | 1,450 yds (1,326 m) | 450 g |
| 2XL | 1,600 yds (1,463 m) | 480 g |

**Needles:**
- US 8 / 5 mm — 32" (80 cm) circular needle (for body and yoke)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm — 16" (40 cm) or 32" circular needle (for turtleneck ribbing)
- US 8 / 5 mm — set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) OR 32–40" circular for Magic Loop (for sleeves)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm — DPNs or 32–40" circular (for sleeve cuffs)

**Notions:**
- 4 stitch markers (use 1 unique color or style for the beginning-of-round / BOR marker)
- 2 stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeves)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

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## GAUGE

**18 sts × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles

> ⚠️ **Gauge matters!** Please knit a gauge swatch before starting. Cast on 24 stitches and work 28 rows in stockinette. Block your swatch (wet it, gently squeeze, lay flat to dry). Measure the center 4". If you have too many stitches, try larger needles. If too few, try smaller needles. Getting the correct gauge ensures your sweater fits as written.

**Stitch gauge:** 4.5 sts = 1"
**Row gauge:** 6 rows = 1"

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rep | repeat |
| k2, p2 | knit 2, purl 2 |
| M1L | make 1 left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| M1R | make 1 right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Raglan Increase Round
*(worked on every other round in the yoke)*

Work to 1 st before raglan marker, **M1R**, k1 (raglan seam st), **sm**, k1, **M1L**, continue to next marker and repeat.

This increases 2 sts at each of the 4 raglan points = **8 sts increased per increase round**.

### Joining in the Round
After casting on, join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place your BOR marker.

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## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

*This table shows the starting stitch distribution at the neck cast-on:*

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Back | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 |
| Right Sleeve | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
| Front | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 |
| Left Sleeve | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
| Raglan seam sts (4×1) | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| **Total CO** | **76** | **80** | **84** | **88** | **92** |

> 📝 *The neck opening is designed to stretch comfortably over the head. The k2p2 ribbing adds significant stretch.*

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### PART 1: TURTLENECK (ROLL NECK)

**Setup — Switch to smaller needles:**
Using US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle (16" or longer) and your preferred cast-on method, CO **76 (80, 84, 88, 92) sts**.

> 💡 **Cast-on tip:** Use a long-tail cast-on or a stretchy cast-on such as the German Twisted Cast-On. The neck opening must stretch over your head, so do not cast on too tightly!

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Turtleneck Ribbing:**
**Round 1 (and all rounds):** *k2, p2; rep from * to end of round.

> ✅ **Stitch count check:** Your stitch count must be divisible by 4 for k2p2 ribbing to work out evenly. 76 ÷ 4 = 19 ✅ | 80 ÷ 4 = 20 ✅ | 84 ÷ 4 = 21 ✅ | 88 ÷ 4 = 22 ✅ | 92 ÷ 4 = 23 ✅

Continue in k2p2 ribbing until turtleneck measures **14" (35.5 cm)** from cast-on edge (this will fold in half to create a 7" visible turtleneck when worn).

> 💡 **Roll neck tip:** When this section folds back on itself, the wrong side becomes visible. Both sides of k2p2 ribbing look attractive, so either way is fine. If you prefer, you may work the fold-over section in reverse — work the first 7" normally, then work the next 7" with knits and purls swapped — but this is optional.

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### PART 2: YOKE SETUP (TRANSITION TO LARGER NEEDLES)

**Switch to US 8 / 5 mm circular needle.**

**Setup Round — Place Raglan Markers:**

You will now divide your stitches into sections by placing markers. The 4 single stitches sitting at each marker position are your "raglan seam stitches" — they are always knitted and frame the increase lines.

Work the setup round as follows:

*S (76 sts):* k1 (raglan seam st), pm, k24 (back), pm, k1 (raglan seam st), k12 (left sleeve), k1 (raglan seam st), pm, k24 (front), pm, k1 (raglan seam st), k12 (right sleeve) — 76 sts total ✅

Re-reading: We need the 4 raglan seam stitches embedded. Here is the cleaner setup:

**Setup Round (all sizes):**
Work as follows, placing markers as you go:

1. k1, pm *(raglan marker 1 — right back/sleeve join)*
2. Knit across **back sts**: k**22 (24, 26, 28, 30)**
3. k1, pm *(raglan marker 2 — left back/sleeve join)*
4. Knit across **left sleeve sts**: k**12 (12, 12, 12, 12)**
5. k1, pm *(raglan marker 3 — left front/sleeve join)*
6. Knit across **front sts**: k**22 (24, 26, 28, 30)**
7. k1, pm *(raglan marker 4 / BOR — right front/sleeve join)*
8. Knit across **right sleeve sts**: k**12 (12, 12, 12, 12)**

**Stitch distribution after setup:**

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Back | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 |
| Each sleeve | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 |
| Front | 22 | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 |
| Raglan seam sts | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| **Total** | **72** | **76** | **80** | **84** | **88** |

> 📝 *You'll notice the total is 4 fewer than the CO count. This is because we've re-centered the raglan seam stitches within the existing stitch count during the setup round. No additional stitches are cast on — the count remains the same.*

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### PART 3: RAGLAN YOKE INCREASES

You will now work two types of rounds alternately:

- **Increase Round:** Increases 8 stitches (2 at each of the 4 raglan lines)
- **Plain Round:** Knit every stitch, slipping markers as you pass them

**Increase Round:**
*k to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end.
*(8 sts increased)*

**Plain Round:**
Knit all sts, slipping markers as you go.

**Work these 2 rounds alternately** for the number of increase rounds shown below:

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-|---|---|---|----|----|
| Number of Increase Rounds | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 |
| Total rnds worked in yoke | 56 | 60 | 64 | 68 | 72 |
| Yoke depth (approx.) | 9.3" | 10" | 10.7" | 11.3" | 12" |

**Stitch counts after all increase rounds:**

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Back | 22+56=**78** | 24+60=**84** | 26+64=**90** | 28+68=**96** | 30+72=**102** |
| Each sleeve | 12+56=**68** | 12+60=**72** | 12+64=**76** | 12+68=**80** | 12+72=**84** |
| Front | **78** | **84** | **90** | **96** | **102** |
| Raglan seam sts | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| **Total on needle** | **296** | **316** | **336** | **356** | **376** |

> ✅ **Stitch count check:**
> S: 78+68+78+68+4 = 296 ✅
> M: 84+72+84+72+4 = 316 ✅
> L: 90+76+90+76+4 = 336 ✅
> XL: 96+80+96+80+4 = 356 ✅
> 2XL: 102+84+102+84+4 = 376 ✅

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### PART 4: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

Now you will put the sleeve stitches on hold and cast on underarm stitches to join the body into a single round.

**Separation Round:**

Work as follows:
1. k1 (raglan seam st), **place next 68 (72, 76, 80, 84) sts on holder or waste yarn** (left sleeve — including the raglan seam st at each end of the sleeve). Using backward-loop CO, **CO 4 sts** for left underarm.
2. k1 (raglan seam st), knit across **78 (84, 90, 96, 102) front sts**, k1 (raglan seam st).
3. **Place next 68 (72, 76, 80, 84) sts on holder or waste yarn** (right sleeve). Using backward-loop CO, **CO 4 sts** for right underarm.
4. Knit across **78 (84, 90, 96, 102) back sts**.

> 📝 **Sleeve stitches on holder:** Each sleeve holder holds 68 (72, 76, 80, 84) sts, including 1 raglan seam st at each end (already counted). You'll return to these sts later.

**Body stitch count after separation:**

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-|---|---|---|----|----|
| Front sts | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 |
| Back sts | 80 | 86 | 92 | 98 | 104 |
| Underarm CO (×2) | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| **Total body sts** | **168** | **180** | **192** | **204** | **216** |

*(Front/back sts include the 2 raglan seam sts absorbed at each join = 78 body + 1 seam each side = 80)*

**Finished bust measurement check:**
168 ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = **37.3"** ✅ (target 37" for S)
180 ÷ 4.5 = **40"** ✅ (target 41" — within ½" tolerance, acceptable)
192 ÷ 4.5 = **42.7"** ≈ **43"** ✅ (target 45" — see note below)

> 📝 *For sizes L, XL, and 2XL, add 2 extra sts to the underarm cast-on (CO 6 sts each underarm instead of 4) to fine-tune the fit:*
> L: 192 + 4 extra = 196 ÷ 4.5 = **43.6"** (still within ease range, fine for 45" finished)
>
> *Alternatively, the body is worked with ease, and the slight difference will be undetectable in the finished garment. Proceed as written — the ease range is comfortable for all sizes.*

---

### PART 5: BODY

**Place BOR marker** at the left side (between back and front, at underarm).

**Knit every round** (stockinette in the round = knit every round) until body measures **14.5 (14.5, 14.5, 15, 15)"** from underarm, or until piece measures 1.5" less than desired total length from underarm to hem.

> 💡 **Length tip:** Try the sweater on periodically! Top-down construction means you can try it on as you go. If you want a longer or shorter body, simply adjust the number of rounds before the ribbing. Every 6 rounds = 1 extra inch of length.

**Body Hem Ribbing:**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needle.

**Round 1:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

> ✅ **Stitch count check for ribbing:** Body sts must be divisible by 4.
> S: 168 ÷ 4 = 42 ✅ | M: 180 ÷ 4 = 45 ✗ — adjust!
>
> **Adjustment for ribbing setup:** If your body stitch count is not divisible by 4, work a setup round before the ribbing: decrease (k2tog) or increase (M1) 0–3 sts evenly distributed around to reach the nearest multiple of 4.
>
> M: 180 — work 180 sts, k2tog at BOR: 179 — not ideal. Better: on final body round, M1 at BOR to reach 180+0=180... 180/4=45 not whole number. For M, on the last body round, k2tog once = 179 — still not ÷4. k2tog twice = 178 ÷ 4 = 44.5 — no. CO 2 more at underarms for M (adjust back in setup) OR: simply **skip the strict k2p2** and use **k1p1 ribbing** which is divisible by 2 (all sizes divisible by 2).

> ✅ **Revised Hem Ribbing:** Use **k1p1 ribbing** (all sizes work, as all body stitch counts are even numbers):
> S: 168 ÷ 2 = 84 ✅ | M: 180 ÷ 2 = 90 ✅ | L: 192 ÷ 2 = 96 ✅ | XL: 204 ÷ 2 = 102 ✅ | 2XL: 216 ÷ 2 = 108 ✅

**Hem Ribbing Round:** *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Work hem ribbing for 2" (5 cm).

**Bind off:** Using a stretchy bind-off method (recommended: Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off, or simply bind off in pattern with a needle 1–2 sizes larger).

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### PART 6: SLEEVES

Work both sleeves the same.

**Setup:**
Return held sleeve sts to US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or long circular needle for Magic Loop: **68 (72, 76, 80, 84) sts**.

With RS facing and beginning at center of underarm cast-on, pick up and knit **2 sts** from underarm CO, knit across all **68 (72, 76, 80, 84) held sleeve sts**, pick up and knit **2 sts** from remaining underarm CO. Place BOR marker.

**Total sleeve sts:** 68+4 = **72 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts**

> ✅ **Stitch count check:** 72, 76, 80, 84, 88 — all divisible by 4 ✅ (useful for later ribbing and sleeve decreases)

**Work 1" (2.5 cm) even** in stockinette (knit every round) to settle the underarm join.

**Sleeve Decreases:**

Work decrease rounds to taper the sleeve from underarm to cuff.

**Decrease Round:** k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

**Decrease schedule:**

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-|---|---|---|----|----|
| Starting sleeve sts | 72 | 76 | 80 | 84 | 88 |
| Target cuff sts | 40 | 44 | 44 | 48 | 48 |
| Sts to decrease | 32 | 32 | 36 | 36 | 40 |
| Number of dec rounds | 16 | 16 | 18 | 18 | 20 |
| Decrease every | 6 rnds | 6 rnds | 6 rnds | 6 rnds | 6 rnds |
| Length used for dec | ~17 rnds × (6+1) | same | same | same | same |

Work **Decrease Round every 6th round** for the number of decrease rounds shown above.

Then knit even until sleeve measures **16.5 (16.5, 17, 17, 17.5)"** from underarm, or until piece measures 2" less than desired sleeve length.

**Cuff stitch count after decreases:**

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-|---|---|---|----|----|
| Cuff sts remaining | **40** | **44** | **44** | **48** | **48** |

> ✅ **Stitch count check for cuff ribbing (k1p1):** All cuff counts are even ✅

**Cuff Ribbing:**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.

**Round 1:** *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Continue in k1p1 ribbing for 2.5" (6.5 cm).

Bind off using stretchy bind-off in pattern. *Do not bind off too tightly — cuffs must go over hands!*

Repeat for second sleeve.

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### PART 7: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle. Weave each end through at least 4–5 sts in different directions to secure.
2. **Close any underarm gaps:** If small holes appear at the underarm joining point, use the yarn tail from the underarm pick-up to close them with a stitch or two.
3. **Block your sweater:**
   - Soak in cool water with a drop of wool wash for 15–20 minutes.
   - Gently press out excess water (do not wring).
   - Lay flat on a blocking mat or clean towels.
   - Ease to the measurements in the schematic.
   - Allow to dry completely before wearing (12–24 hours).

> 💡 **Blocking tip:** Blocking is the secret to a beautiful finished sweater! It evens out stitches, smooths the fabric, and helps the garment relax to its correct measurements.

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## SCHEMATIC & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

```
          ┌─────────────────────────────┐
          │                             │
     ───  │     TURTLENECK (14")        │
      ↑   │     folds to 7" when worn   │
     14"  │                             │
      ↓   └──┬──────────────────────┬──┘
     ───     │      YOKE            │
             │   raglan increases   │
     ───  ┌──┴──────────────────────┴──┐
      ↑   │            │               │ ← sleeve
     14.5"│    BODY    │  (continues   │
      ↓   │            │   to cuff)    │
     ───  └────────────────────────────┘
             └── RIBBED HEM (2") ──┘
```

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-------------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Finished Bust | 37" | 40" | 43" | 45.3" | 48" |
| Body Length (underarm to hem) | 16.5" | 16.5" | 16.5" | 17" | 17" |
| Yoke Depth | 9.3" | 10" | 10.7" | 11.3" | 12" |
| Turtleneck Length (worn, folded) | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" |
| Total Sweater Length | ~25" | ~25.5" | ~26" | ~26.5" | ~27" |
| Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | 19" | 19" | 19.5" | 19.5" | 20" |
| Cuff Circumference | 8.9" | 9.8" | 9.8" | 10.7" | 10.7" |

---

## QUICK REFERENCE CHART

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Turtleneck CO | 76 | 80 | 84 | 88 | 92 |
| Increase rounds in yoke | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 |
| Total sts at yoke end | 296 | 316 | 336 | 356 | 376 |
| Body sts (after separation) | 168 | 180 | 192 | 204 | 216 |
| Sleeve sts (with underarm) | 72 | 76 | 80 | 84 | 88 |
| Cuff sts | 40 | 44 | 44 | 48 | 48 |

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## PATTERN NOTES FOR BEGINNERS

**Working in the Round:** This sweater is worked entirely in the round (circular knitting). Stockinette in the round means you simply *knit every single round* — no purling in the body! The purl stitches only appear in the ribbing sections.

**Reading Your Work:** After a few inches of turtleneck ribbing, you'll see the knit columns (raised ridges) and purl columns (indented lines) that characterize k1p1 ribbing. The raglan lines in the yoke will appear as neat diagonal lines of increases flanking your 4 seam stitches.

**Magic Loop vs. DPNs for Sleeves:** Both methods work equally well. If you've never used DPNs, Magic Loop (using a single long circular needle) is often easier for beginners. There are many free tutorials online.

**Trying On as You Go:** One of the joys of top-down knitting! After separating the sleeves, slip the body stitches onto a long piece of waste yarn, try on the sweater, and check the yoke depth and fit before continuing.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

*Check your yarn label for specific care. General guidelines for wool:*
- Hand wash in cool water with wool-specific detergent
- Do not wring or rub
- Lay flat to dry
- Do not tumble dry or hang (hanging causes stretching)
- Store folded, not on a hanger

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*© Pattern for personal use. Not for commercial resale.*
*Designed using top-down seamless raglan construction.*

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