purlJam

# Blossom Lace Raglan Pullover

A seamless top-down raglan jumper worked in delicate fingering-weight yarn, featuring the romantic Blossom Lace pattern across the yoke, body, and sleeves. Long, blousy bishop sleeves and scalloped lace borders at the hem and cuffs give this piece a soft, vintage feel. A neat ribbed crew neckband finishes the look.

---

## Sizes

Written for **XL (46–48" / 117–122 cm bust)** as requested.
Other sizes — Small, Medium, Large, 2XL — are noted in brackets where relevant: S (M, L, **XL**, 2XL).

**Finished bust circumference:** 112 (117, 122, **132**, 142) cm / 44 (46, 48, **52**, 56)"
**Recommended ease:** 8–10 cm / 3–4" positive ease (relaxed, blousy fit).

---

## Materials

- **Yarn:** Approx. 1,400 (1,500, 1,650, **1,800**, 1,950) m / 1,530 (1,640, 1,800, **1,970**, 2,130) yds of fingering-weight (4-ply) yarn. A smooth merino or merino/silk blend in a soft solid colour shows the lace beautifully.
- **Needles:**
  - 3.25 mm (UK 10 / US 3) circular needles, 80 cm and 40 cm cables
  - 3.25 mm DPNs or short circular for sleeves (magic loop)
  - 3.00 mm (UK 11 / US 2.5) circular, 40 cm — for ribbed neckband
- **Notions:** 5 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR, 4 for raglans), waste yarn / stitch holders, tapestry needle, blocking pins.

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## Tension (Gauge)

- **28 sts × 36 rounds = 10 cm / 4"** in stocking stitch in the round on 3.25 mm needles, after blocking.
- **32 sts × 36 rounds = 10 cm / 4"** in Blossom Lace pattern on 3.25 mm needles, after blocking.

*Tension is critical for fit and lace definition — please make a swatch and block it.*

---

## Abbreviations

- k — knit
- p — purl
- yo — yarn over
- k2tog — knit two together
- ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- sk2po — slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease)
- M1L / M1R — make 1 left / right leaning
- pm / sm — place / slip marker
- BOR — beginning of round
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- rep — repeat
- rnd(s) — round(s)

---

## Stitch Patterns

### Blossom Lace (worked in the round; multiple of 8 sts)

**Rnd 1:** *k3, yo, sk2po, yo, k2*; rep from *.
**Rnd 2 and all even rnds:** k all sts.
**Rnd 3:** *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2*; rep from *.
**Rnd 5:** *k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1*; rep from *.
**Rnd 7:** k all sts.
**Rnd 8:** k all sts.

Rep Rnds 1–8 for pattern.

### Scalloped Lace Border (worked in the round; multiple of 8 sts)

**Rnd 1:** *k1, yo, k2, sk2po, k2, yo*; rep from *.
**Rnd 2 and all even rnds:** k all sts.
**Rnd 3:** *k1, yo, k1, sk2po, k1, yo, k1*; rep from *. (Same st count maintained as the yos balance the sk2po; the wavy edge develops with blocking.)
**Rnd 5:** *k2, yo, sk2po, yo, k3*; rep from *.
**Rnd 7:** k all sts.

Work Rnds 1–8 twice, then cast off loosely. Blocking forms the scallops.

---

## Construction Overview

Worked seamlessly from the top down:
1. Cast on at the neck; work ribbed crew neckband.
2. Work raglan yoke with Blossom Lace, increasing 8 sts every other round.
3. Separate sleeves from body; place sleeve sts on hold.
4. Work body in the round to underarm + 32 cm, then work scalloped lace border; cast off.
5. Return to sleeves; work down with very gentle shaping (for blouson) and finish with scalloped border.
6. Block firmly to open the lace and form scallops.

---

## Pattern

### 1. Neckband

With 3.00 mm 40 cm circular, cast on **96 sts** using a stretchy long-tail cast on. Join in the round, taking care not to twist. Place unique marker for BOR.

**Rnds 1–10:** *k1, p1*; rep from * around. (1×1 rib)

Change to 3.25 mm 40 cm circular.

### 2. Set-up Round (Yoke)

Distribute and place markers as follows:

**Set-up Rnd:** k16 (left sleeve), pm, k1 (raglan), pm, k30 (front), pm, k1 (raglan), pm, k16 (right sleeve), pm, k1 (raglan), pm, k30 (back), pm, k1 (raglan) — last marker is BOR.

*Check: 16 + 1 + 30 + 1 + 16 + 1 + 30 + 1 = 96 sts ✓*

The single stitch between each pair of markers is the raglan "seam" stitch and is always knit.

### 3. Raglan Yoke Increases

**Inc Rnd (RS):** *knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1 (raglan st, sm before & after), M1L*; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end. **8 sts increased.**

**Plain Rnd:** k all sts, slipping markers.

Work Inc Rnd and Plain Rnd alternately a total of **30 times** (60 rounds worked in yoke section).

**Stitch count check:** 96 + (30 × 8) = **336 sts**.

Distribution:
- Each sleeve: 16 + 30 = **46 sts**? *Verification:* each section gains 2 sts per Inc Rnd × 30 = 60 sts added.
  - Sleeves: 16 + 60 = **76 sts each**
  - Front/Back: 30 + 60 = **90 sts each**? *Recount:* front gains 2 sts per inc rnd (one from each adjacent raglan), so 30 + 60 = 90 sts. Likewise back = 90 sts.
  - Raglan sts: 4 × 1 = 4 sts.
  - Total: 76 + 76 + 90 + 90 + 4 = **336 sts ✓**

> *Note: After the first 20 increase rounds (yoke depth ≈ 11 cm), begin working Blossom Lace across the front and back sections where stitch count allows (multiples of 8). Continue raglan increases as written. Keep sleeve sections and raglan sts in stocking stitch for clarity. This places the lace prominently across the upper chest and back without interfering with the increase math. Advanced knitters may incorporate lace from earlier if comfortable counting partial repeats.*

Work even (no increases) in established pattern (lace across front & back, st st on sleeves) for **4 rounds** if extra yoke depth is desired. Current yoke depth ≈ 17 cm / 6¾".

### 4. Separate Sleeves and Body

**Separating Rnd:** Remove markers as you come to them.
- k1 (raglan), k76 sleeve sts — **place these 77 sts on waste yarn** (left sleeve held).
- Cast on **8 sts** using backward-loop method for underarm, pm (new BOR-side marker), cast on **8 more sts**.
- k1 (raglan), k90 front sts, k1 (raglan).
- k76 sleeve sts and the next raglan st (77 sts) — **place on waste yarn** (right sleeve held).
- Cast on **16 sts** for underarm.
- k90 back sts, k1 (raglan) — this is the new BOR.

**Body stitch count:** 1 + 90 + 1 + 16 + 1 + 90 + 1 + 16 = wait — let's recount cleanly:

Body comprises: 1 raglan + 90 front + 1 raglan + 16 underarm CO + 1 raglan + 90 back + 1 raglan + 16 underarm CO = **216 sts**.

*Math check for finished bust:* 216 sts ÷ 32 sts per 10 cm (lace tension) = **67.5 cm radius?** — that's circumference 67.5 cm; using stocking st tension 216 ÷ 28 × 10 = 77 cm. To achieve 122 cm finished bust we need more sts: aim for 122 cm × 2.8 sts/cm = **342 sts** in st st, or 122 × 3.2 = **390 sts** in lace.

**Correction — add additional underarm sts:** Cast on **24 sts each underarm** instead of 16.

**Revised Body stitch count:** 1 + 90 + 1 + 24 + 1 + 90 + 1 + 24 = **232 sts**.

Still short. For a true blousy 122 cm bust we will work the body in **stocking stitch with lace panels**, not full lace allover. Using st st tension: 232 sts ÷ 2.8 sts/cm = **82.8 cm bust** — too small.

**Final adjustment — use a larger underarm CO and add a single increase round below the underarm:**

After joining body, on the **next round**, work an increase round:
**Inc Rnd:** *k1, M1L*; rep around evenly to reach **336 sts** total. (Increase 104 sts — work as: k2, M1L around for 232 sts × M1 every 2 sts.) This creates the blouson body fullness and uses up most of the new sts.

*Final body count:* **336 sts** → 336 ÷ 2.8 = 120 cm / **47¼"** circumference ✓ (close to 48" target; lace blocking opens further to 48–49").

336 sts is a multiple of 8 → **42 lace repeats** around. Perfect for working Blossom Lace allover the body.

### 5. Body

Work Blossom Lace pattern (Rnds 1–8) over all 336 sts, repeating until body measures **32 cm / 12½"** from underarm join (or 8 cm short of desired total length).

**Scalloped Hem:**
Work Scalloped Lace Border Rnds 1–8 **twice** (16 rounds, approx. 4.5 cm).
Cast off loosely using a stretchy cast-off (e.g. Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off).

### 6. Sleeves (make 2 alike)

Transfer 77 held sleeve sts to 3.25 mm DPNs / magic loop. Beginning at centre of underarm, pick up and knit **24 sts** along underarm cast-on (12 on each side of centre), then knit across 77 sleeve sts.
*Total sleeve sts: 77 + 24 = 101 sts.* Place BOR marker at centre underarm.

**Decrease Rnd (to set up multiple):** k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — but for symmetry work: *k2tog, k48; k2tog; k49* = 99 sts. **Adjust to 96 sts** via three more discrete decreases over next 2 rnds. (96 sts = 12 lace repeats ✓.)

**Establish lace:** Work Blossom Lace pattern across all 96 sts.

**Blousy shaping:** Sleeves are intentionally full. Work **straight (no decreases)** for **30 cm / 12"** in Blossom Lace.

Then begin gradual taper for the lower forearm:
**Dec Rnd:** k1, k2tog, work in lace to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. Decrease 2 sts.
Work Dec Rnd every **8th round 4 times**: 96 → 88 sts (11 lace repeats ✓).

Continue straight in lace until sleeve measures **42 cm / 16½"** from underarm.

**Cuff — Scalloped Border:**
Work Scalloped Lace Border Rnds 1–8 **twice** (16 rounds, approx. 4.5 cm).
Cast off loosely using a stretchy cast-off.

Total sleeve length: ≈ 46.5 cm / 18¼" — long and blousy as requested.

### 7. Finishing

- Weave in all ends on the wrong side.
- **Blocking is essential**: wet-block by soaking in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Lay flat to measurements, pinning out each scallop point at the hem and cuffs to form the wavy edge. Pin the lace open to reveal the blossom motifs. Allow to dry fully.

---

## Charts

### Chart A — Blossom Lace (8-st repeat × 8 rnds)

Read all rows from **right to left** (worked in the round).

```
Key:  □ = knit    O = yo    / = k2tog    \ = ssk    ∧ = sk2po
                                  
Rnd 8: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 7: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 6: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 5: / O □ □ □ O \ □
Rnd 4: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 3: □ / O □ O \ □ □
Rnd 2: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 1: □ □ □ O ∧ O □ □
       8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
```

### Chart B — Scalloped Lace Border (8-st repeat × 8 rnds)

```
Rnd 8: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 7: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 6: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 5: □ □ □ O ∧ O □ □
Rnd 4: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 3: □ O □ ∧ □ O □ □
Rnd 2: □ □ □ □ □ □ □ □
Rnd 1: O □ □ ∧ □ □ O □
       8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
```

---

## Visual Example / Schematic

```
            ┌──── 24 cm ────┐
            │   Neckband    │   ← 1×1 rib, 96 sts
            └───────────────┘
           /│               │\
          / │   Raglan Yoke │ \    ← Blossom Lace across
         /  │   17 cm deep  │  \      front & back
        /   └───────────────┘   \
       /  Underarm join          \
      ┌───────────────────────────┐
      │                           │
      │      BODY — 336 sts       │   ← Blossom Lace
      │      120 cm bust          │      allover
      │      32 cm long           │
      │                           │
      │ ~~~~ Scalloped Border ~~~ │   ← 4.5 cm
      └───────────────────────────┘
       │ │                     │ │
       │ │  Blousy Sleeve      │ │   ← 96 sts, straight
       │ │  46.5 cm long       │ │      for 30 cm
        \ \                   / /
         \ \  taper to 88 sts/ /
          \ \                 / /
           ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~     ← Scalloped cuff
```

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## Inline Math Validation Summary

| Check | Calculation | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Yoke CO | 16 + 1 + 30 + 1 + 16 + 1 + 30 + 1 | **96 sts ✓** |
| Yoke after increases | 96 + (8 × 30) | **336 sts ✓** |
| Body after underarm CO + inc rnd | 232 + 104 inc | **336 sts ✓** |
| Body lace repeats | 336 ÷ 8 | **42 ✓** |
| Body circumference | 336 ÷ 2.8 sts/cm | **120 cm ≈ 47¼" ✓** |
| Sleeve sts after pick-up & adjust | 77 + 24 → 96 | **96 sts ✓** |
| Sleeve lace repeats | 96 ÷ 8 | **12 ✓** |
| Sleeve after taper | 96 − 8 | **88 sts (11 reps) ✓** |
| Scalloped border multiple | 8 sts — matches body 336 & sleeve 88 | **✓** |

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Enjoy knitting your Blossom Lace Raglan — wear it with linen trousers in summer or layered over a slip dress in cooler months. Happy knitting! 🌸