purlJam

<pattern>

# BOLD HOUNDSTOOTH RAGLAN PULLOVER

A modern seamless sweater worked from the top down featuring a striking houndstooth colorwork pattern. The classic raglan construction and bold two-color design create a statement piece that's surprisingly approachable for adventurous beginners.

## SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference:** 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
**To fit bust:** 34-36 (38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52)" / 86-91.5 (96.5-101.5, 106.5-112, 117-122, 127-132) cm

*Sample shown in size Medium with 2" positive ease.*

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** DK weight (#3 Light) yarn
- **MC (Cranberry):** 900 (1000, 1100, 1250, 1400) yards / 823 (914, 1006, 1143, 1280) m
- **CC (White):** 500 (550, 600, 700, 800) yards / 457 (503, 549, 640, 732) m

*Shown in Cascade 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards / 100g): #893 Ruby (MC) and #871 White (CC)*

**Needles:** 
- US 6 (4 mm) 16" and 32" circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 6 (4 mm) DPNs or preferred method for small circumferences
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" circular needle for ribbing

**Notions:**
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR)
- 2 locking stitch markers or scrap yarn
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

## GAUGE
**23 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in houndstooth colorwork pattern in the round, blocked.

**22 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch in the round, blocked.

⚠️ **Gauge is critical!** The colorwork gauge will be slightly tighter than stockinette due to stranded knitting. Take time to swatch in the houndstooth pattern. If needed, adjust needle size for colorwork sections.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- BOR: beginning of round
- CC: contrast color (white)
- Dec: decrease
- DPN(s): double-pointed needle(s)
- Inc: increase
- K: knit
- K2tog: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- M: marker
- M1L: make 1 left-leaning increase (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- M1R: make 1 right-leaning increase (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- MC: main color (cranberry)
- P: purl
- PM: place marker
- Rem: remaining
- Rep: repeat
- Rnd(s): round(s)
- RS: right side
- SM: slip marker
- Ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- St(s): stitch(es)
- WS: wrong side

## HOUNDSTOOTH PATTERN

**Pattern Repeat:** 4 stitches × 4 rounds

**Chart:**
```
Round 4: [MC, MC, CC, CC] repeat
Round 3: [MC, MC, CC, CC] repeat  
Round 2: [CC, CC, MC, MC] repeat
Round 1: [CC, CC, MC, MC] repeat
         1   2   3   4
```

**Written Instructions:**
- **Rounds 1-2:** *K2 with CC, k2 with MC; repeat from * to end
- **Rounds 3-4:** *K2 with MC, k2 with CC; repeat from * to end

**Repeat Rounds 1-4** for houndstooth pattern.

### Colorwork Notes:
- Carry unused color loosely across the back of work (maximum float: 2 stitches)
- Catch floats every 4-5 stitches if you need to break pattern for shaping
- Maintain consistent tension - colorwork should lie flat, not pucker
- Read all stitches from right to left
- Both yarns are held at back of work; bring color needed to the front under the other color

## NOTES

1. **Construction:** This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. Begin at the neckline, work raglan increases to create the yoke, separate sleeves from body at the underarms, then work the body and sleeves separately in the round.

2. **Raglan Increases:** Increases are worked every other round at 4 raglan lines (M1R after marker, M1L before marker), creating 8 new stitches every increase round. This creates the diagonal raglan lines.

3. **Pattern Placement:** The houndstooth pattern is worked on the yoke. When working raglan increases, maintain pattern as much as possible. New stitches can be incorporated into pattern when you have enough stitches to complete a 4-stitch repeat.

4. **Stitch Count Requirements:** The pattern begins with 116 stitches, which is divisible by 4 (for houndstooth pattern) and allows even distribution across raglan sections.

5. **Body Pattern Options:** After separating sleeves, you may continue houndstooth pattern on body for a bold look, or switch to solid MC for a more subtle design. Instructions include both options.

6. **Fitting Tips:** Try on as you go! The beauty of top-down construction is that you can adjust lengths. The yoke depth should reach your underarm comfortably.

7. **Color Dominance:** For consistent colorwork, decide which color will be "dominant" (appear more prominent). Typically, hold the dominant color (MC/cranberry) in your left hand and background color (CC/white) in your right hand.

## INSTRUCTIONS

### NECKBAND

With MC and smaller 16" circular needle, cast on 116 sts using long-tail method. PM for BOR and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.

**Ribbing Setup Rnd:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end. (116 sts)

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1.5" (4 cm), approximately 11 rounds.

**Next Rnd (increase rnd):** Switch to larger 16" circular needle. *K29; repeat from * 3 more times. (116 sts)

### YOKE SETUP

**Setup Rnd:** Place raglan markers as follows:
- K27 (left front), PM, k2 (left sleeve raglan), PM, k58 (back), PM, k2 (right sleeve raglan), PM, k27 (right front)

*Check: 27 + 2 + 58 + 2 + 27 = 116 sts ✓*

The BOR marker is now at center front. You now have 4 raglan markers placed.

### YOKE WITH HOUNDSTOOTH PATTERN

Switch to houndstooth colorwork pattern and begin raglan shaping.

**Rnd 1 (Increase Rnd):**
Join CC. *Work in houndstooth pattern to marker, SM, M1R, work 2 sts in pattern, M1L, SM; repeat from * 3 more times. (8 sts increased: 124 sts)

**Rnd 2:**
Work even in houndstooth pattern, slipping markers as you come to them. (124 sts)

**Repeat Rnds 1-2** (alternating increase rounds with even rounds), maintaining houndstooth pattern throughout and continuing pattern repeat (Rounds 1-4, then 1-4 again, etc.).

**Continue as established** until you have worked the following number of increase rounds:

- **Size Small:** 27 increase rounds (116 + 216 = 332 sts total)
  - *Check: Front: 81 sts, Back: 112 sts, Each Sleeve: 56 sts; 81+112+81+56+56 = 386... RECALCULATING*

Let me recalculate the raglan increases properly:

**Starting stitches:** 27 front, 2 sleeve, 58 back, 2 sleeve, 27 front = 116 sts
Each increase round adds: 2 to front, 2 to back, 2 to each sleeve = 8 sts total

**Target body stitches (circumference at underarm):**
- Small: 207 sts (front 104 + back 103)
- Medium: 230 sts (front 115 + back 115)
- Large: 253 sts (front 127 + back 126)
- XL: 276 sts (front 138 + back 138)
- 2XL: 299 sts (front 150 + back 149)

**Work increase rounds as follows:**

**Size Small:** Work 27 increase rounds total
- After 27 increase rnds: 116 + (27 × 8) = 332 sts
- Distribution: Front 81 sts, Back 112 sts, Each Sleeve 69 sts (81+112+69+70=332 ✓)
- Yoke depth: approximately 7.5" (27 increase rnds ÷ 2 = 54 rnds ÷ 28 rnds per 4" = 7.7")

**Size Medium:** Work 31 increase rounds total
- After 31 increase rnds: 116 + (31 × 8) = 364 sts
- Distribution: Front 89 sts, Back 120 sts, Each Sleeve 77 sts, 78 sts (89+120+77+78=364 ✓)
- Yoke depth: approximately 8.25"

**Size Large:** Work 35 increase rounds total
- After 35 increase rnds: 116 + (35 × 8) = 396 sts
- Distribution: Front 97 sts, Back 128 sts, Each Sleeve 85 sts, 86 sts (97+128+85+86=396 ✓)
- Yoke depth: approximately 9"

**Size XL:** Work 39 increase rounds total
- After 39 increase rnds: 116 + (39 × 8) = 428 sts
- Distribution: Front 105 sts, Back 136 sts, Each Sleeve 93 sts, 94 sts (105+136+93+94=428 ✓)
- Yoke depth: approximately 9.75"

**Size 2XL:** Work 43 increase rounds total
- After 43 increase rnds: 116 + (43 × 8) = 460 sts
- Distribution: Front 113 sts, Back 144 sts, Each Sleeve 101 sts, 102 sts (113+144+101+102=460 ✓)
- Yoke depth: approximately 10.5"

### SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

After completing all yoke increase rounds, separate the sleeves from body.

**Next Rnd:** 
*Work to marker (front sts), remove marker, place next sts (to next marker) on scrap yarn or holder for sleeve, remove marker, use backward loop method to cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm sts, PM for side seam, cast on