Everyday Top-Down Raglan Pullover

Skill level: Intermediate. A confident beginner can manage this plain, one-colour version if they keep careful stitch counts. Construction: Top-down, seamless raglan (route A), worked in rounds of UK treble. Terminology: UK crochet terms throughout.

Sizes

Ease: The design has about 5 cm positive ease. Crochet fabric relaxes and grows lengthwise in wear, so the ease is intentionally less than you would choose for a knitted sweater.

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted (4) weight wool or wool blend, approx. 200 m per 100 g.
  • Quantity: 950 / 1100 / 1250 / 1400 / 1550 / 1700 m.
  • If you use cotton, note that it has less give, so the fit is less forgiving. Consider going up a size.
• Hooks:
  • 5.0 mm (US H/8) for the main fabric.
  • 4.5 mm (US 7) for the ribbing.
• Notions: 4 locking stitch markers, waste yarn and a tapestry needle.

Tension (gauge)

14 tr × 8 rounds = 10 × 10 cm over treble worked in the round, measured after blocking.

To check it, work a tube of 30 tr for 12 rounds, then wet-block it. Change hook size until both stitch and row tension match. Yoke depth depends on row tension, so check it as carefully as stitch tension.

Stitch Guide (UK terms)

Raglan increase: (tr, ch 1, tr) worked into the raglan ch-1 sp. This adds 1 st to each section either side of the line, so each round gains 2 sts per raglan point and 8 sts per round in total.

Counting rules:

• Ch-1 spaces are not counted as stitches.
• The ch 3 at the start of each round counts as 1 tr.

Size Reference Table

In this table:

• Back/Front is the number of sts in each of those sections.
• Sleeve is the number of sts in each sleeve section.

Yoke

With the 5.0 mm hook, ch 68 / 68 / 72 / 84 / 92 / 96. Join with a sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.

Round 1 (set-up): Each "skip 1 ch" uses up one foundation chain, which is why the chain is 4 longer than the neck stitch total.

1. Back: Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr in the next 23 / 25 / 27 / 33 / 37 / 39 ch, giving a back of 24 / 26 / 28 / 34 / 38 / 40 sts.
2. Ch 1, skip 1 ch. Place a marker in this sp.
3. Sleeve: Tr in the next 8 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 6 ch.
4. Ch 1, skip 1 ch. Place a marker.
5. Front: Tr in the next 24 / 26 / 28 / 34 / 38 / 40 ch.
6. Ch 1, skip 1 ch. Place a marker.
7. Sleeve: Tr in the next 8 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 6 ch.
8. Ch 1, skip 1 ch. Place a marker.
9. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3.

Check: 64 / 64 / 68 / 80 / 88 / 92 tr and 4 ch-sps. (For example, XS: 24 + 8 + 24 + 8 = 64 ✓; 64 + 4 skipped ch = 68 ✓.)

The join sits at the back neck, at the left raglan line. Try the ring over your head now. It will be finished with ribbing, but it must pass over the head comfortably.

Round 2 (increase):

1. Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr in each tr to the first raglan sp.
2. (tr, ch 1, tr) in the raglan sp. Tr in each tr to the next raglan sp.
3. Repeat from * to * 3 more times, ending the last repeat with a tr in each tr to the ch 3.
4. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3.

That gives 8 sts increased. Check: 72 / 72 / 76 / 88 / 96 / 100 sts (e.g. 64 + 8 = 72 ✓).

Move the markers up into the new ch-1 sps as you go.

Rounds 3 onward: Repeat Round 2 until you have worked 16 / 18 / 20 / 20 / 21 / 23 increase rounds in total, counting Round 2 as the first.

Check: 192 / 208 / 228 / 240 / 256 / 276 sts.

• Back and Front: 56 / 62 / 68 / 74 / 80 / 86 sts each.
• Each sleeve: 40 / 42 / 46 / 46 / 48 / 52 sts.
• For example, M: 68 + (8 × 20) = 228 ✓; 68 + 68 + 46 + 46 = 228 ✓.

Yoke depth will be about 21 / 24 / 26 / 26 / 27.5 / 30 cm from the foundation chain. Try the yoke on: the raglan points should reach your underarm. If you need more depth, work 1–2 plain rounds (no increases) before dividing. If you do, add the same number of rounds to the cuff decrease section, as noted under Sleeves.

Divide for Body and Sleeves

Division round:

1. Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr in each back st to the raglan sp.
2. Skip the raglan sp, all the sleeve sts and the next raglan sp.
3. Ch 4 / 5 / 6 / 6 / 7 / 8 for the underarm.
4. Tr in each front st.
5. Skip the raglan sp, the second sleeve and the next raglan sp.
6. Ch 4 / 5 / 6 / 6 / 7 / 8 for the second underarm.
7. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3.

Slip the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, or simply leave them live (they are already secure in crochet).

Body count: 120 / 134 / 148 / 160 / 174 / 188 sts (tr plus underarm ch). (For example, XL: 80 + 7 + 80 + 7 = 174 ✓; 174 ÷ 1.4 = 124 cm ✓.)

Body

Next round: Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr in each tr and in each underarm ch around. Join.

Body count: 120 / 134 / 148 / 160 / 174 / 188 sts.

Work straight, with no shaping, until the body measures 35 / 36 / 37.5 / 37.5 / 39 / 40 cm from the underarm. This is 28 / 29 / 30 / 30 / 31 / 32 rounds in total, including the division round and the next round.

For a cropped or longer fit, simply work fewer or more rounds. Each round adds about 1.25 cm, and every extra 10 cm of length needs about 100 m more yarn.

Fasten off.

Sleeves (make 2)

Round 1:

1. With the 5.0 mm hook, join yarn at the centre of the underarm chain.
2. Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr in each remaining underarm ch.
3. Tr in the raglan sp, tr in each sleeve st, then tr in the raglan sp.
4. Tr in each underarm ch to the start.
5. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3.

Check: 46 / 49 / 54 / 54 / 57 / 62 sts. This is the sleeve sts, plus 2 raglan sps, plus the underarm ch. (For example, S: 42 + 2 + 5 = 49 ✓.)

The joining point marks the underarm "seam" line.

Decrease round: Ch 3 (counts as tr). Tr2tog. Tr in each st to the last 3 sts. Tr2tog, tr in the last st. Join. This decreases 2 sts.

Work the decreases on the following schedule. Round 1 counts as round 1 of the sleeve.

• XS: Work Round 1, then repeat [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 8 times. Work 3 plain rounds.
  • Total: 1 + 24 + 3 = 28 rounds ✓
  • Stitches: 46 − 16 = 30 ✓
• S: Work Round 1, then repeat [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 8 times. Work 4 plain rounds.
  • Total: 1 + 24 + 4 = 29 rounds ✓
  • Stitches: 49 − 16 = 33 ✓
• M: Work Round 1, then repeat [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 9 times. Work 1 plain round, then 1 decrease round.
  • Total: 1 + 27 + 2 = 30 rounds ✓
  • Stitches: 54 − 20 = 34 ✓
• L: Work Round 1, then repeat [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 9 times. Work 2 plain rounds.
  • Total: 1 + 27 + 2 = 30 rounds ✓
  • Stitches: 54 − 18 = 36 ✓
• XL: Work Round 1, then repeat [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 9 times. Work 1 plain round, then 1 decrease round.
  • Total: 1 + 27 + 2 = 30 rounds ✓
  • Stitches: 57 − 20 = 37 ✓
• XXL: Work Round 1, then repeat [1 plain round, 1 decrease round] 4 times, then [2 plain rounds, 1 decrease round] 7 times. Work 2 plain rounds.
  • Total: 1 + 8 + 21 + 2 = 32 rounds
  • Stitches: 62 − 22 = 40 ✓

The sleeve should measure about 35 / 36 / 37.5 / 37.5 / 37.5 / 40 cm from the underarm. If you added extra yoke rounds, you may want fewer sleeve rounds to keep your preferred sleeve length. Try the sleeve on and adjust by working plain rounds before the cuff.

Fasten off. Work the second sleeve in the same way.

Ribbing

All ribbing is worked sideways with the 4.5 mm hook in dc BLO and joined to the edge as you go.

Cuffs (5 cm):

1. Join yarn at the sleeve seam line and ch 11.
2. Row 1: Dc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch to the end (10 dc). Sl st into the next 2 sts of the cuff edge. Turn.
3. Row 2: Skip the 2 sl sts. Dc BLO in each dc (10 dc). Turn.
4. Row 3: Ch 1. Dc BLO in each dc (10 dc). Sl st into the next 2 edge sts. Turn.
5. Repeat Rows 2–3 around the cuff, so that each pair of rows attaches 2 edge sts.
6. Sl st the last row to the foundation chain to close.

The cuff takes about 30 / 33 / 34 / 36 / 37 / 40 rows.

Hem (6 cm): Work as for the cuffs around the body, but ch 13 to begin, giving 12 dc per row. The hem takes about 120 / 134 / 148 / 160 / 174 / 188 rows.

Neckband: This is worked directly from the edge with the 4.5 mm hook.

1. Round 1: Join yarn at the back raglan line. Ch 1, then dc in each foundation ch around, which places 1 dc in the base of each tr and 1 dc in each skipped ch.
   • Check: 68 / 68 / 72 / 84 / 92 / 96 dc. Join.
2. Round 2: Ch 1. Dc BLO in each st, working dc2tog at each of the 4 raglan lines. Join.
   • Check: 64 / 64 / 68 / 80 / 88 / 92 dc (e.g. 68 − 4 = 64 ✓).
3. Rounds 3–4: Ch 1. Dc BLO in each st around. Join.

Fasten off.

Finishing

• Weave in ends: Weave ends into solid treble columns, not across chain spaces or the underarm chain edge.
  • The underarm gaps are a weak point. Use a tail to close any small holes at the corners of the underarm chain.
• Block: Wet-block the sweater flat to the measurements in the Sizes table. Pin the yoke so the raglan lines lie straight, and leave it to dry fully.
  • Do not stretch it lengthwise, because crochet will drop with wear.

Pattern Notes

• Raglan lines: The (tr, ch 1, tr) increase forms decorative eyelet raglan lines. Always work the increase into the ch-1 sp, never into a stitch.
• Seam lines: The round joins sit at the back-left raglan line. They will form a faint seam line, which is normal.
• Stitch counts: Count your stitches at every check-point. Most fit problems come from one missed stitch at the ch 3 or at a raglan point.
• Choosing a size: Choose your size by finished chest. About 5 cm of ease gives a standard fit. For an oversized fit, choose a size one or two up.