purlJam

# Fitted Knit Boxer Shorts
### A Seamless Top-Down Pattern

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## SIZES
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

**To Fit Hip:** 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches / 81 (91, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm
**Finished Hip:** 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches / 81 (91, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm (0–1" positive ease for snug fit)
**Finished Waist (relaxed, unstretched):** ~25.5 (29, 32, 35, 38.5, 41.5) inches — rib stretches comfortably to fit.
**Finished Rise:** 10.5 (11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13) inches
**Finished Inseam:** 3 inches (adjustable)

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), smooth wool or wool-blend with some elasticity. Approx. 550 (650, 750, 850, 950, 1050) yards / 500 (595, 685, 775, 870, 960) m.
- **Needles:**
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm — 16" and 32" circulars, plus DPNs or preferred small-circumference method (for legs and waistband).
  - US 8 / 5 mm — 32" circular (for body).
- **Notions:** Stitch markers (4, one distinct), waste yarn / stitch holders, tapestry needle, optional 1"-wide elastic (for casing option — length = waist measurement minus 2").

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## GAUGE

**20 sts × 28 rounds = 4" / 10 cm** in Stockinette stitch in the round on US 8 / 5 mm needles, after blocking.

*Gauge is essential for the snug fitted silhouette. Take time to swatch.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k / p** — knit / purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **k2tog** — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **M1L / M1R** — make 1 left / right (lifted increases)
- **pm / sm** — place marker / slip marker
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **DS** — double stitch (German short row turn)
- **MDS** — make double stitch: bring yarn to front, slip next st purlwise, pull yarn up and over needle to back, creating a "doubled" loop on the needle.

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## CONSTRUCTION NOTES

These boxer shorts are worked seamlessly from the top down. You'll begin with a ribbed waistband, increase for the hips, add German short rows across the back for seat shaping, then divide for two legs worked individually with a cast-on gusset at the crotch for comfort and shape.

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## WAISTBAND

With US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, using a **long-tail cast-on**, CO **128 (144, 160, 176, 192, 208)** sts.

Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Rib Round:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rib Round until waistband measures **1.5 inches / 4 cm** from cast-on edge.

### Waistband Option A — Ribbed Cuff (Default)
Continue to next section (Transition).

### Waistband Option B — Folded Casing for Elastic
Work a **turning round:** Purl all sts 1 round. Then work in stockinette (knit all rounds) for 1.5" more. When the body is complete, fold the casing to the inside along the purl round and whipstitch in place, leaving a 1" gap to thread elastic, then close.

*Math check: CO 128 ÷ 4 = 32 rib repeats. ✓ All sizes divisible by 4.*

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## TRANSITION & HIP INCREASES

Switch to US 8 / 5 mm needles.

**Set-up Round:** Knit to end, placing markers to divide stitches into quadrants:
- BOR marker = right side seam
- After 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts = center front
- After 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts = left side (use distinct marker)
- After 96 (108, 120, 132, 144, 156) sts = center back

Actually, for simplicity, use just **two side markers**:
- BOR marker = right side seam
- After **64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts**, pm (distinct color) = left side seam

This divides the shorts into Front half and Back half of equal stitch counts.

Knit 4 rounds even.

### Hip Increase Rounds
**Increase Round:** *K1, M1L, knit to 1 st before next side marker, M1R, k1, sm; rep from * once more. (4 sts increased)

Work Increase Round **every 4th round 4 times total**.

**Stitches after increases: 144 (160, 176, 192, 208, 224) sts.**

*Math check: 128 + (4 × 4) = 144 ✓ for XS, and so on across sizes.*

Knit 2 rounds even.

### Additional Hip Increases (larger curve)
Work Increase Round **every 6th round 4 more times**.

**Stitches after all hip shaping: 160 (176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts** — split evenly into 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) front / 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) back.

*Math check: 144 + 16 = 160 ✓*

Knit even until piece measures **6 (6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25) inches / 15 (16, 16.5, 17, 18, 18.5) cm** from cast-on edge, ending at BOR marker.

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## SEAT SHORT ROWS (German Short Rows)

These short rows add ~0.75" of depth across the seat to prevent riding down.

The short rows are worked **flat across the back half only** (80 / 88 / 96 / 104 / 112 / 120 sts).

**Set-up:** Knit to side marker (right side seam is BOR), sm — you're now at start of Back half.

**Short Row 1 (RS):** Knit across back to 8 sts before left side marker. Turn work.
**Short Row 2 (WS):** MDS, purl across back to 8 sts before right side marker (BOR). Turn work.
**Short Row 3 (RS):** MDS, knit to 6 sts before previous DS (i.e., 6 sts before the DS on the left). Turn.
**Short Row 4 (WS):** MDS, purl to 6 sts before previous DS. Turn.
**Short Row 5 (RS):** MDS, knit to 6 sts before previous DS. Turn.
**Short Row 6 (WS):** MDS, purl to 6 sts before previous DS. Turn.
**Short Row 7 (RS):** MDS, knit to 6 sts before previous DS. Turn.
**Short Row 8 (WS):** MDS, purl to 6 sts before previous DS. Turn.

**Closing Round:** MDS, then knit across the back to BOR, **working each DS as a single stitch** (k the two loops together) as you encounter them. Sm (BOR).

**Next Round:** Knit all the way around, working any remaining DS on the back as single sts.

*Note: All short rows are on the Back half only. Front stays untouched.*

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## BODY TO CROTCH

Knit even in stockinette until piece measures **10.5 (11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13) inches / 27 (28, 29, 30.5, 32, 33) cm** from cast-on edge at the front (measure at the center front, not the back, because short rows have added depth at the back).

End having just worked a complete round at BOR.

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## DIVIDE FOR LEGS & GUSSET

You'll now divide the stitches into two legs, adding a few cast-on stitches at each crotch junction to form the inner-leg gusset.

**Gusset cast-on count:** 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts each side.

### Place Second Leg on Hold
- Knit the first 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts of the front — this is the **right half-front**. Leave on needle.
- Place the next 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) front sts + 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) back sts on waste yarn — this is **second leg held** (80 / 88 / 96 / 104 / 112 / 120 sts).
- The remaining 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts on the needle = **right half-back**.

You now have **80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) sts** for the first (right) leg, split as half-front + half-back.

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## FIRST LEG

Using backward loop or cable cast-on, **CO 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts** at the end of the right half-back sts. These are the crotch gusset sts. Join into the round with the right half-front sts; pm for new BOR at the center of the cast-on gusset (count 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 6 / 6 sts in from the join).

**Total leg sts: 88 (96, 106, 114, 124, 132) sts.**

*Math check: 80 + 8 = 88 ✓*

Knit 2 rounds even.

### Optional Leg Taper
**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased)
Work Decrease Round **every 6th round 3 times total**.

**Stitches after tapering: 82 (90, 100, 108, 118, 126) sts.**

Knit even until leg measures **2.25 inches / 5.5 cm** from gusset cast-on (or ~0.75" less than desired total inseam).

### Leg Cuff
**Set-up Round:** Knit, decreasing 2 (2, 0, 0, 2, 2) sts evenly around so the count is a multiple of 4.
→ **80 (88, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts.**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.

Work **K2, p2 ribbing** for **0.75 inch / 2 cm**.

Bind off loosely in pattern using a **stretchy bind-off** (e.g., Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off).

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## SECOND LEG

Return held sts to needles — 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) sts.

Rejoin yarn at the inner crotch. With RS facing, **pick up and knit 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts** along the backward-loop cast-on edge of the first leg's gusset. Knit around held sts. Join in round; place BOR marker at center of the picked-up gusset.

**Total: 88 (96, 106, 114, 124, 132) sts.**

Work second leg identically to first leg: 2 rounds even, 3 decrease rounds every 6th round (82 / 90 / 100 / 108 / 118 / 126 sts), then even until inseam matches, then 0.75" of K2, p2 rib, and stretchy bind-off.

*Tip: Pick up stitches tightly and twist if needed to avoid any gap at the crotch corners — a couple of extra stitches picked up and decreased on round 1 can close any small holes.*

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends, paying extra attention to the crotch junctions — reinforce corners with a few extra anchoring stitches on the WS if needed.
2. **Blocking:** Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (don't wring). Lay flat on a towel and shape to schematic measurements. Allow to dry completely.
3. **If Waistband Option B (Casing):** After blocking, thread 1"-wide elastic through the casing (length = your waist measurement minus 2 inches for snug fit). Overlap ends by 1", stitch securely, and close the gap in the casing.

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## SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist (relaxed) | 25.5" | 29" | 32" | 35" | 38.5" | 41.5" |
| Hip | 32" | 36" | 40" | 44" | 48" | 52" |
| Rise (front) | 10.5" | 11" | 11.5" | 12" | 12.5" | 13" |
| Inseam | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3" | 3" |
| Thigh opening | 16" | 17.6" | 20" | 21.6" | 23.2" | 24.8" |

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Enjoy your cozy, seamless fitted boxers! These make excellent loungewear and layering pieces. 🧶