purlJam

# Relaxed-Fit Knitted Boxer Shorts with Ruffle Hem

A comfortable, mid-thigh boxer short knitted seamlessly from the top down in worsted weight yarn. Featuring gentle hip shaping, German short-row seat shaping for a flattering fit at the back, and a sweet ruffled hem at each leg. Designed for a relaxed (not tight) fit with approximately 2–5 cm of positive ease at the hip.

**Skill Level:** Beginner (with one new technique: German Short Rows — fully explained)

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## Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL)

**Finished hip circumference:** 87 (95.5, 104.5, 113.5, 122) cm / 34¼ (37½, 41, 44¾, 48) in
**To fit hip:** 82–86 (91–95, 100–104, 109–113, 118–122) cm
**Finished waist (relaxed, ribbing stretches +8–12 cm):** 73 (82, 91, 100, 109) cm
**Finished inseam length (including ruffle):** 24 cm / 9½ in (approximately ⅓ of the lower leg above the knee on an average-height adult — adjust as noted)

*For a more relaxed fit, choose the size with 2–5 cm positive ease at the hip. For a closer fit, size down.*

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (12 WPI), approximately 350 (400, 450, 500, 550) m
- **Needles:**
  - 4.5 mm circular needle (60–80 cm), for waistband ribbing
  - 5 mm circular needle (60–80 cm), for body
  - 5 mm DPNs or 5 mm circular for magic loop, for legs
- **Notions:** Stitch markers (4), stitch holders or scrap yarn, tapestry needle, removable marker for short rows

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## Tension (Gauge)

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in** in stocking stitch (St st) in the round on 5 mm needles, after blocking.

⚠️ *Tension is essential for correct fit. Please knit a swatch in the round.*

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## Abbreviations

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **rnd** — round
- **St st** — stocking stitch (knit every round in the round)
- **M1L** — make one left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop
- **M1R** — make one right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop
- **k2tog** — knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit slipped sts together (left-leaning decrease)
- **kfb** — knit into front and back of stitch (increase, used for ruffle)
- **DS** — double stitch (German short row turn — see notes)
- **pm** — place marker
- **sm** — slip marker
- **BOR** — beginning of round

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## Special Techniques

### German Short Rows (GSR)
At the turning point, turn work. With yarn in front, slip the first stitch purlwise. Pull the working yarn firmly up and over the needle to the back, creating a "double stitch" (DS) that looks like two legs of one stitch. When you encounter a DS later, knit (or purl) both legs together as one stitch.

### Stretchy Bind-Off (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off)
Recommended for waistband (Option 1). For each k st: yarn over, knit one, pass yo over the knit st, then pass the previous st over. For each p st: reverse yo, purl one, pass yo over, then pass previous st over.

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## PATTERN

### 1. Waistband

With 4.5 mm needle, using a long-tail cast-on, cast on **132 (148, 164, 180, 196)** sts.

Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for BOR (this marks the left side seam).

**Rnd 1:** *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Continue in 1×1 rib as set until waistband measures **4 cm / 1½ in**.

> ✅ *Maths check: 132 sts ÷ 18 sts × 10 cm = 73 cm relaxed waist. Ribbing stretches comfortably to fit a 76–86 cm waist.*

**Choose your waistband finish:**

- **Option A (recommended for beginners):** Continue to next section directly. The ribbing edge will stay neat as cast on.
- **Option B (Folded casing for elastic):** Work an additional 4 cm in St st, then on the next round knit each st together with the corresponding loop from the cast-on edge to form a folded hem. Insert elastic at finishing.

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### 2. Body — Hip Increases

Change to 5 mm needle. Place a second marker after stitch **66 (74, 82, 90, 98)** to mark the right side seam. You now have BOR (left seam) and a right-seam marker, dividing front and back evenly.

**Setup rnd:** Knit all sts.

**Increase rnd:** *k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before next marker, M1R, k1, sm; rep from * once more. *(4 sts increased)*

Knit 3 rnds even.

Repeat the last 4 rnds **5 more times** (6 increase rnds total). **156 (172, 188, 204, 220)** sts.

> ✅ *Maths check: 156 sts ÷ 18 × 10 = 86.7 cm hip (XS) — matches sizing.*

Knit even in St st until body measures **14 cm / 5½ in** from cast-on edge.

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### 3. Seat Shaping — German Short Rows

The back is the section between the right-seam marker and the BOR marker (66, 74, 82, 90, 98 sts).

**Setup:** Knit to BOR marker. The BOR marker is at your left side seam. Knit across the back panel to right-seam marker. Now begin short rows over the back stitches only.

**Short Row 1 (RS):** Knit to right-seam marker, turn.
**Short Row 2 (WS):** Make DS, purl back to BOR marker, turn.
**Short Row 3 (RS):** Make DS, knit to 6 sts before previous turn, turn.
**Short Row 4 (WS):** Make DS, purl to 6 sts before previous turn, turn.
**Short Rows 5–6:** Repeat Rows 3–4. *(3 DS pairs created across back)*

**Resolve rnd:** Make DS, knit to BOR marker, knitting each DS as a single stitch when you encounter it. Continue around the front, working a full round and resolving the remaining DS at the BOR side.

> 💡 *This adds about 2 cm of extra depth across the seat, preventing the back from riding down.*

Knit even in St st until total length from cast-on is **24 cm / 9½ in** at the front (measured along the front, not the back). This is your full rise.

> *Adjust here for a longer/shorter rise as preferred. The back will naturally measure ~2 cm longer due to short rows.*

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### 4. Crotch Division

Knit to BOR marker. Place the **first 78 (86, 94, 102, 110) sts** (front leg) on hold using scrap yarn or a holder. These will become the second leg.

The remaining **78 (86, 94, 102, 110) sts** stay on the needle for the first leg.

**Cast on crotch sts:** Using the backward-loop cast-on, cast on **8 sts** at the end of the working needle. Join in the round.

**Total per leg: 86 (94, 102, 110, 118) sts.**

Place BOR marker at the centre of the new crotch cast-on (between st 4 and st 5 of the new 8 sts).

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### 5. First Leg

Change to DPNs or magic loop with 5 mm needles.

**Rnds 1–4:** Knit every rnd.

**Gentle taper (optional but recommended for relaxed-fit shape):**

**Decrease rnd:** k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

Knit 7 rnds even.

Repeat last 8 rnds **2 more times**. **80 (88, 96, 104, 112)** sts.

Knit even until leg measures **16 cm / 6¼ in** from crotch cast-on.

> ⚠️ *The ruffle adds approximately 4 cm to the leg length. Total finished leg = 16 cm leg + 4 cm ruffle = ~20 cm from crotch, plus 4 cm body below the rise = 24 cm inseam total. To lengthen or shorten, adjust the "knit even" section here.*

#### Ruffle Hem

**Ruffle setup rnd:** *kfb; rep from * to end. **160 (176, 192, 208, 224)** sts.

> ✅ *Maths check: doubling the sts creates the gathered ruffle effect.*

Knit every rnd in St st for **4 cm / 1½ in**.

**Bind off** loosely knitwise (or use stretchy bind-off if you prefer extra give). The stocking stitch ruffle will naturally curl outward, creating a soft, feminine flounce.

Cut yarn and pull through last loop.

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### 6. Second Leg

Return the held **78 (86, 94, 102, 110) sts** to your 5 mm needle.

Rejoin yarn at the centre of the original crotch cast-on. Pick up and knit **8 sts** along the underside of the 8 crotch sts cast on for the first leg (one st picked up per cast-on loop).

**Total: 86 (94, 102, 110, 118) sts.**

Place BOR marker at the centre of the picked-up sts.

Work identically to the first leg, including taper, length, and ruffle.

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### 7. Finishing

1. Weave in all loose ends on the wrong side using a tapestry needle.
2. Soak the shorts in cool water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
3. Lay flat to dry, gently shaping to the schematic measurements. Pat the ruffle hem to encourage it to flare nicely.
4. **If you chose Waistband Option B (casing):** Thread a length of 2 cm wide elastic (your waist measurement minus 2 cm) through the casing using a safety pin. Overlap the ends by 2 cm and secure with stitches. Close the small opening in the casing with whip stitch.

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## Schematic Measurements

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist (relaxed) | 73 cm | 82 cm | 91 cm | 100 cm | 109 cm |
| Hip | 87 cm | 95.5 cm | 104.5 cm | 113.5 cm | 122 cm |
| Rise (front) | 24 cm | 24 cm | 25 cm | 25 cm | 26 cm |
| Inseam (incl. ruffle) | 24 cm | 24 cm | 24 cm | 24 cm | 24 cm |
| Leg opening (at ruffle) | ~89 cm | ~98 cm | ~107 cm | ~116 cm | ~124 cm |

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**Enjoy your handmade boxers!** These are perfect for lounging at home, sleepwear, or layering under a longer skirt or dress. The ruffle adds a playful touch while the relaxed fit keeps them supremely comfortable. 🧶