purlJam

# Low-Rise Micro Shorts with Fold-Over Waistband

A pair of fitted micro shorts knit seamlessly in the round with a stretchy fold-over waistband. These low-rise shorts feature a 1-inch inseam and a 4-inch folded waistband for a comfortable, modern fit.

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Fingering weight wool yarn
- Approximately 400-500 yards

**Needles**: 
- US 6 (4mm) circular needle, 24" or 32" length for body
- US 6 (4mm) circular needle, 16" length for legs (or DPNs)
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers (3)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle

## GAUGE

22 sts and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round, relaxed
(5.5 sts/inch and 7.5 rows/inch)

20 sts = 4 inches in 2×2 rib, slightly stretched
(5 sts/inch)

**Gauge is critical for proper fit. Please swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.**

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

- Waist circumference: 37" (relaxed, with stretch to fit over hips)
- Hip circumference: 40"
- Thigh opening: 24" per leg
- Total rise (crotch to top of folded waistband): 8"
- Waistband height when folded: 4"
- Inseam: 1"

## ABBREVIATIONS

- k: knit
- p: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- inc: increase (knit into front and back of stitch)
- k2tog: knit two stitches together
- ssk: slip, slip, knit (slip 2 sts knitwise, insert left needle into front of slipped sts, knit together)
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- BOR: beginning of round
- RS: right side
- w&t: wrap and turn (for short rows)

## PATTERN NOTES

- These shorts are worked seamlessly in the round from the waist down.
- The waistband is worked in 2×2 ribbing for maximum stretch and is knit at double the finished height to allow for folding.
- The body is worked in stockinette stitch with shaping to accommodate hips.
- The legs are worked separately with increases to create a comfortable thigh opening.
- Negative ease in the waistband ensures it stays secure when folded.
- The fabric should be stretchy; if your gauge is too tight, go up a needle size.

## INSTRUCTIONS

### Waistband

**Cast On**: Using the long-tail cast on (or other stretchy cast on), CO 204 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for BOR.

[MATH CHECK: 204 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 37.1 inches - CORRECT]

**Setup Round**: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.

**Rounds 1-44**: Continue in 2×2 rib as established (k2, p2) for 44 rounds.

[MATH CHECK: 44 rounds ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 5.9 inches, approximately 6 inches of ribbing - this creates 8 inches total with the double thickness after folding, with 4 inches showing when folded - CORRECT]

**Note**: The waistband will measure approximately 6" before folding. When folded over, it will create a 3" double-layer waistband, but we're knitting extra length to account for the fold and achieve 4" finished. Actually, let me recalculate:

[RECALCULATION]: For a 4" folded waistband, we need 8" total fabric. At 7.5 rows/inch, that's 60 rounds.

**CORRECTION TO WAISTBAND**:
**Rounds 1-60**: Continue in 2×2 rib as established (k2, p2) for 60 rounds total.

[MATH CHECK: 60 rounds ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 8 inches total - CORRECT]

### Body

**Round 61**: Knit all sts (this creates the fold line and transitions to stockinette).

[STITCH COUNT: 204 sts]

**Rounds 62-65**: Knit all sts (4 rounds even).

**Hip Shaping**:
We need to increase from 204 sts to 220 sts over the next section to accommodate the hips.

**Round 66**: K1, inc, k99, inc, k2, inc, k99, inc, k1. (208 sts)

**Rounds 67-69**: Knit all sts (3 rounds even).

**Round 70**: K2, inc, k100, inc, k4, inc, k100, inc, k2. (212 sts)

**Rounds 71-73**: Knit all sts (3 rounds even).

**Round 74**: K3, inc, k101, inc, k6, inc, k101, inc, k3. (216 sts)

**Rounds 75-77**: Knit all sts (3 rounds even).

**Round 78**: K4, inc, k102, inc, k8, inc, k102, inc, k4. (220 sts)

[MATH CHECK: 220 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 40 inches at hips - CORRECT]

**Rounds 79-81**: Knit all sts (3 rounds even).

[MATH CHECK for body length: From round 61 to round 81 = 21 rounds ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 2.8 inches. We need 4 inches from fold to crotch for an 8-inch total rise. Need more rounds.]

**RECALCULATION FOR BODY LENGTH**:
From fold to crotch should be 4 inches = 30 rounds at gauge.

**Rounds 82-90**: Knit all sts (9 more rounds even).

[TOTAL BODY ROUNDS: Rounds 61-90 = 30 rounds ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 4 inches - CORRECT]

### Divide for Legs

**Round 91**: K110 for front, pm for right leg, k110 for back.

You now have 110 sts for each leg. Place the back 110 sts on waste yarn or stitch holder.

### Front Leg - Right Side

**Setup**: Working on the front 110 sts only, you will now work the crotch shaping and leg opening.

To create the crotch curve and leg opening, we'll use a combination of casting on for the inseam and increases for the thigh.

**Row 1 (at crotch)**: Using the backward loop or cable cast on, CO 11 sts, knit across the 110 front sts, CO 11 sts. (132 sts for right leg)

[MATH CHECK: 132 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 24 inches thigh opening - CORRECT]

Join to work in the round. PM for new BOR at center of inseam.

**Rounds 1-6**: Knit all sts (6 rounds for 1" inseam).

[MATH CHECK: 6 rounds ÷ 7.5 rows/inch = 0.8 inches, approximately 1 inch - CORRECT]

**Bind Off**: Using a stretchy bind off (such as Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off or standard bind off worked loosely), BO all 132 sts.

### Back Leg - Left Side

Return the 110 held sts to needles.

**Row 1 (at crotch)**: Using the backward loop or cable cast on, CO 11 sts, knit across the 110 back sts, CO 11 sts. (132 sts for left leg)

Join to work in the round. PM for new BOR at center of inseam.

**Rounds 1-6**: Knit all sts (6 rounds for 1" inseam).

**Bind Off**: Using a stretchy bind off, BO all 132 sts.

## FINISHING

### Seaming the Crotch

Using mattress stitch or kitchener stitch, seam the center crotch area where the two legs meet, joining the 11 cast-on stitches from each leg together. This creates approximately a 2" crotch seam.

[MATH CHECK: 22 sts total (11 from each leg) ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 4 inches of crotch width - this provides adequate coverage]

### Waistband

Fold the waistband down along the purl round (round 60) to create a 4" double-layer waistband. The ribbing will naturally want to fold here. You can tack the waistband down in a few places on the inside with a tapestry needle and matching yarn, or leave it free-floating.

### Weaving in Ends

Weave in all ends securely, especially at the crotch seam and leg openings.

### Blocking

Wet block lightly if desired, laying flat to dry. Do not over-stretch the ribbing. The shorts should retain their elasticity.

## SIZING NOTES

These shorts are designed with negative ease at the waist (37" waist will stretch to fit over 40" hips when pulling on). The ribbed waistband provides significant stretch. If you need adjustments:

- **For a larger/smaller waist**: Add or subtract stitches in multiples of 4 to maintain the 2×2 rib pattern.
- **For larger/smaller hips**: Adjust the number of increases in the hip shaping section.
- **For longer/shorter rise**: Add or subtract rounds in the body section between the waistband and leg division.
- **For longer/shorter inseam**: Add or subtract rounds in the leg section.

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Hand wash in cool water with wool wash. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist.

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**Pattern Design Notes**: This pattern creates a low-rise micro short with substantial stretch in the waistband for comfort and security. The fold-over waistband adds visual interest while providing a smooth, comfortable fit at the natural waist.