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# Fjordlys — Nordic Fair Isle Yoked Pullover

A traditional circular-yoke jumper in DK weight wool, featuring a snowflake-and-star colourwork yoke worked in four colours. Designed for the advanced knitter comfortable with stranded colourwork, this seamless jumper is worked from the bottom up and joined at the underarms for a continuous yoke.

---

## Sizes

Five sizes: **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**
- Finished bust: **92 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm** / 36¼ (40¼, 44, 48, 52) in
- Designed with **8–12 cm (3–5 in) positive ease** — choose a size 8–10 cm larger than your actual bust.
- Finished length from underarm: 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm
- Yoke depth: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) cm
- Sleeve length to underarm: 45 cm (adjustable)

Sample shown in size **Medium**.

---

## Materials

### Yarn
DK weight wool or wool-blend (recommended: 100% wool for blocking and colourwork definition).
Total: approx. **1400–1550 g** for size 2XL, leaving comfortable margin within your 1600 g stash.

| Colour | Role | Approx. quantity |
|---|---|---|
| **MC** (Main Colour — e.g. natural cream) | Body, sleeves, background of yoke | 900 (950, 1000, 1080, 1150) g |
| **CC1** (e.g. deep navy) | Dominant colourwork colour | 150 (160, 170, 180, 200) g |
| **CC2** (e.g. heather grey) | Secondary motif colour | 80 (90, 100, 110, 120) g |
| **CC3** (e.g. soft red) | Accent colour | 60 (70, 80, 90, 100) g |

> **Note:** With 1600 g total DK, distribute according to the table above. If your yarn is one colour only, you'll need to source small amounts of contrast colours (≈ 300 g total contrast).

### Needles
- 4.0 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 80 cm — for ribbing
- 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needle, 80 cm — for body
- 4.5 mm circular needle, 40 cm — for yoke and neckband
- 4.5 mm DPNs or short circular for sleeves (magic loop acceptable)
- 4.0 mm DPNs for cuffs

### Notions
- 8 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR)
- 4 waste-yarn holders (for underarms)
- Tapestry needle
- Blocking pins and mats

---

## Tension (Gauge)

**Both swatches must be washed and blocked before measuring.**

- **22 sts × 28 rounds = 10 cm** in stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles
- **24 sts × 26 rounds = 10 cm** in stranded colourwork on 4.5 mm needles

> Colourwork tension is tighter than plain knitting. If you cannot match both, prioritise the **colourwork tension** and adjust needle size for body if needed (typically go up half a size for body if colourwork pulls in).

---

## Abbreviations (UK)

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **k2tog** — knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **M1L / M1R** — make one left / right (lifted increase)
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **pm / sm** — place marker / slip marker
- **MC, CC1, CC2, CC3** — Main Colour, Contrast Colours 1–3
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd(s)** — round(s)

---

## Construction Notes

This jumper is worked **seamlessly in the round from the bottom up**. The body and sleeves are knit separately to the underarms in MC, then joined onto one circular needle to work the colourwork yoke. Yoke shaping is achieved with four evenly distributed decrease rounds. The neckband is worked last in 2×2 rib.

**Colourwork tips:**
- Hold **CC1 in your dominant hand** (or below MC if using two-handed method) — this keeps motifs crisp.
- Catch floats every 5 sts to prevent snagging.
- Keep floats loose: spread sts on the right needle before changing colour.
- Steam-block aggressively after finishing — this evens out colourwork tension dramatically.

---

## BODY

With 4.0 mm long circular needle and MC, cast on **200 (224, 248, 268, 292) sts** using long-tail cast-on. Place unique BOR marker and join in the round, taking care not to twist.

### Hem ribbing
**Rnds 1–14:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end. (≈ 5 cm)

Change to 4.5 mm long circular needle.

### Body
**Setup rnd:** k100 (112, 124, 134, 146), pm (side marker), k to end.

Continue in stocking stitch (knit every round) until body measures **38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm** from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm.

### Divide for underarms
**Next rnd:** k95 (106, 117, 126, 138), place next 10 (12, 14, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for underarm, k95 (106, 117, 126, 138), place final 10 (12, 14, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for underarm.

**Sts remaining on body:** 190 (212, 234, 252, 276) sts. Set aside.

> ✅ *Math check: 200−10=190 ✓; 224−12=212 ✓; 248−14=234 ✓; 268−16=252 ✓; 292−16=276 ✓.*

---

## SLEEVES (make 2)

With 4.0 mm DPNs and MC, cast on **48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts**. Join in the round, pm for BOR.

### Cuff ribbing
**Rnds 1–16:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end. (≈ 5.5 cm)

Change to 4.5 mm DPNs/short circular.

### Sleeve
**Rnd 1:** k all sts.
**Rnd 2 (inc):** k1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1. *(2 sts inc)*

Repeat **Inc rnd every 8th round** a total of **14 (16, 18, 20, 22) times**.

**Sts after increases:** 48+28=76 (52+32=84, 56+36=92, 60+40=100, 64+44=108) sts.

> ✅ *Math check: S 76 ✓; M 84 ✓; L 92 ✓; XL 100 ✓; 2XL 108 ✓.*

Continue without further shaping until sleeve measures **45 cm** from cast-on (or 2 cm short of desired underarm length — colourwork yoke adds length).

### Divide for underarm
**Next rnd:** k66 (72, 78, 84, 92), place final 10 (12, 14, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for underarm.

**Sts remaining on sleeve:** 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) sts.

> ✅ *Math check: 76−10=66 ✓; 84−12=72 ✓; 92−14=78 ✓; 100−16=84 ✓; 108−16=92 ✓.*

---

## JOIN FOR YOKE

With 4.5 mm long circular needle holding the body, and beginning at the right underarm:

**Joining rnd (in MC):**
1. Knit across one sleeve — 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) sts
2. Knit across front of body — 95 (106, 117, 126, 138) sts
3. Knit across second sleeve — 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) sts
4. Knit across back of body — 95 (106, 117, 126, 138) sts
5. Place new BOR marker (this is centre-back? — no, beginning of round at left back/sleeve junction)

**Total yoke sts:** **322 (356, 390, 420, 460) sts**

> ✅ *Math check (M): 72+106+72+106 = 356 ✓.*
> ✅ *S: 66+95+66+95 = 322 ✓; L: 78+117+78+117 = 390 ✓; XL: 84+126+84+126 = 420 ✓; 2XL: 92+138+92+138 = 460 ✓.*

Knit **2 rnds plain** in MC to settle the join.

---

## YOKE — Adjust to chart-friendly count

To work the colourwork chart cleanly, we need a stitch count divisible by **24** (the motif repeat).

**Adjustment rnd (MC):** Decrease evenly to reach the following counts:

| Size | Adjust to | Decreases needed |
|---|---|---|
| S | **312** | 10 dec |
| M | **336** | 20 dec |
| L | **384** | 6 dec |
| XL | **408** | 12 dec |
| 2XL | **456** | 4 dec |

**To decrease evenly:** divide your current st count by the number of decs to find spacing. For example, size M: 356 ÷ 20 = ~18, so *(k16, k2tog) rep* gives 20 dec.

> ✅ *Math check: S 322−10=312 (÷24=13 reps) ✓; M 336÷24=14 ✓; L 384÷24=16 ✓; XL 408÷24=17 ✓; 2XL 456÷24=19 ✓.*

---

## COLOURWORK YOKE CHART

Work the **24-stitch repeat** chart below, reading every row from right to left (all rounds are RS as we are knitting in the round).

```
CHART (24 sts × 32 rounds; read bottom to top, right to left)

Rnd 32: ┌─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┬─┐
Rnd 32: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│  MC plain
Rnd 31: │1│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│  peerie
Rnd 30: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
Rnd 29: ── DECREASE RND 4 (worked plain in MC after motif) ──
Rnd 28: │1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│
Rnd 27: │1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│
Rnd 26: │2│3│2│1│M│1│2│3│2│1│M│1│2│3│2│1│M│1│2│3│2│1│M│1│  large snowflake centre
Rnd 25: │1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│1│2│1│M│M│M│
Rnd 24: │1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│M│
Rnd 23: │M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│
Rnd 22: ── DECREASE RND 3 ──
Rnd 21: │M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│  star points
Rnd 20: │M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│
Rnd 19: │M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│
Rnd 18: │1│1│2│1│2│1│1│M│1│1│2│1│2│1│1│M│1│1│2│1│2│1│1│M│
Rnd 17: │M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│M│1│1│2│1│1│M│M│
Rnd 16: │M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│M│M│1│1│1│M│M│M│
Rnd 15: │M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│1│M│M│M│M│
Rnd 14: ── DECREASE RND 2 ──
Rnd 13: │M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│  diamond border
Rnd 12: │3│M│3│M│M│M│3│M│3│M│M│M│3│M│3│M│M│M│3│M│3│M│M│M│
Rnd 11: │M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│M│3│M│M│M│M│
Rnd 10: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
Rnd  9: │1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│1│M│  alternating border
Rnd  8: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
Rnd  7: ── DECREASE RND 1 ──
Rnd  6: │1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│  peerie
Rnd  5: │M│1│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│1│M│M│M│1│M│1│M│M│
Rnd  4: │1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│1│M│M│
Rnd  3: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
Rnd  2: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
Rnd  1: │M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│M│
        └─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┴─┘

Key:  M = MC (cream)   1 = CC1 (navy)   2 = CC2 (grey)   3 = CC3 (red)
```

---

## YOKE INSTRUCTIONS

Work the chart over your adjusted st count, repeating the 24-st pattern around. Decrease rounds are worked **plain in MC** *between* chart sections to keep motifs intact.

### Decrease Round 1 (after Rnd 7 of chart)
*(reduces by ~20%)*

| Size | Sts before | Decrease pattern | Sts after |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 312 | *(k3, k2tog) rep* | 250 |
| M | 336 | *(k3, k2tog) rep* | 269 → adjust to **264** |
| L | 384 | *(k3, k2tog) rep* | 308 → adjust to **312** |
| XL | 408 | *(k3, k2tog) rep* | 326 → adjust to **336** |
| 2XL | 456 | *(k3, k2tog) rep* | 365 → adjust to **360** |

For clean motif maths after this round, use these targets:
**S 240, M 264, L 312, XL 336, 2XL 360** *(all divisible by 24)*

Use *(k2, k2tog) rep* for S, M, 2XL; *(k3, k2tog) rep* for L, XL — adjust the final repeat to land on target.

> ✅ *All targets divisible by 24.*

Continue chart **Rnds 8–13** over new st count.

### Decrease Round 2 (after Rnd 13 of chart)
*(reduces by ~25%)*

Targets after Dec Rnd 2: **S 180, M 198, L 234, XL 252, 2XL 270**

Decrease pattern: *(k2, k2tog) rep* for most sizes; verify final st count by adjusting last repeat. New counts divisible by 18 (matches star motif spacing).

Work chart **Rnds 14–21** over new count, repeating the 18-st star section (drop alternating columns to fit).

> *Tip:* If chart alignment becomes complex, an alternative is to omit Decrease Round 2 and use a smaller motif. Chart is forgiving — the visual focus is the large snowflake.

### Decrease Round 3 (after Rnd 21 of chart)
*(reduces by ~25%)*

Targets: **S 135, M 150, L 174, XL 189, 2XL 204**

Decrease pattern: *(k1, k2tog, k1) rep* approx — calculate as (current ÷ 4) decreases evenly spaced.

Work **Rnds 22–28** over new count.

### Decrease Round 4 (after Rnd 28 of chart)
*(reduces to neckband count)*

Targets: **S 96, M 104, L 112, XL 120, 2XL 128**

Decrease pattern: *(k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog) rep* or similar — target divisible by 4 for ribbing.

Work chart **Rnds 29–32** (peerie band) in the new count.

---

## NECKBAND

Change to 4.0 mm short circular needle. With MC:

**Rnds 1–10:** *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Cast off loosely in pattern using a stretchy bind-off (e.g. Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy or k2tog tbl bind-off).

---

## FINISHING

### Underarms
Place each set of held underarm sts onto two DPNs (10/12/14/16/16 from body and matching number from sleeve). With MC and a third DPN, **graft using Kitchener stitch**, picking up an extra st at each corner of the gap to close holes. Weave in tails on WS.

### Weaving in
Weave in all colourwork ends along their own colour paths on the WS, working over 4–5 sts and splitting the yarn for security. Trim long floats only after blocking.

### Blocking
Soak the finished jumper in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Roll in a towel to remove excess water. Lay flat on blocking mats, gently shaping to the schematic measurements. Pin the yoke flat in a perfect circle to set the colourwork. **Do not stretch the ribbing.** Allow to dry completely (24–48 hours).

### Optional
- Add a hanging loop at centre-back neck.
- Embroider initials inside the hem with CC1.

---

## SCHEMATIC SUMMARY

```
                  ╭─── neck 96–128 sts ───╮
                 │       NECKBAND          │
                ╱      (2×2 rib, 4 cm)      ╲
              ╱   ┌── COLOURWORK YOKE ──┐    ╲
            ╱     │   23–27 cm depth    │      ╲
          ╱       │   4 decrease rnds   │        ╲
         │  ┌─────┴─────────────────────┴─────┐   │
         │  │                                 │   │
   sleeve│  │           BODY                  │   │sleeve
   45 cm │  │     38–42 cm to underarm        │   │
         │  │                                 │   │
         │  │                                 │   │
         │  └────────── 2×2 rib 5 cm ─────────┘   │
         └─ cuff 5.5 cm 2×2 rib ─┘
```

**Bust circumferences:** 92 / 102 / 112 / 122 / 132 cm
**Upper arm:** 35 / 38 / 42 / 45 / 49 cm
**Yoke depth:** 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 27 cm

---

## DESIGNER NOTES

- The **chart is provided as a guide**; experienced colourwork knitters may substitute any 24-st repeat motif of similar height. The key structural element is the placement of the four decrease rounds.
- For a **lopapeysa look**, replace CC2 and CC3 with shades of the same family (e.g. light/medium/dark grey) and use a single bold motif.
- For a **steeked cardigan version**, cast on an additional 8 steek sts at centre-front, work in pattern throughout, then cut and finish with a crocheted reinforcement and picked-up button bands.
- With your **1600 g stash**, you'll have approximately 50–200 g remaining depending on size — perfect for a matching hat or mittens.

Happy knitting! 🧶❄️