Fynbos Drop-Sleeve Cardigan

A beginner-friendly slightly dropped-shoulder cardigan worked flat in stockinette and seamed. Contrast 1×1 rib frames the hems, cuffs, and a 1 in / 25 mm button band. Designed for Elle Karoon Tweed DK in Fynbos (body and sleeves) and Protea (ribbing and button band). Size M is the EU 44 size.

Skill level: Beginner.

Materials

Yarn: Elle Karoon Tweed DK (DK-weight tweed; 22 sts = 4 in / 10 cm).

• MC — Fynbos (body and sleeves): 1050 (1175, 1300, 1475, 1650) yd / 960 (1075, 1190, 1350, 1510) m.
• CC — Protea (ribbing and button band): 250 (275, 300, 350, 400) yd / 230 (250, 275, 320, 365) m.

If your balls are 100 g / 250 m (273 yd), purchase approximately 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) balls MC and 2 balls CC in all sizes. Always go by yardage on the ball band and buy an extra ball if your gauge is slightly loose.

Needles: US 6 (4 mm) straight needles, plus a US 6 (4 mm) circular needle 32–40 in / 80–100 cm long for the button band (or size needed to obtain gauge). One needle size is used throughout, as requested.

Notions:

• Tapestry needle
• 2 stitch holders or waste yarn
• 4 stitch markers
• 7 buttons, ⅝–¾ in / 15–20 mm diameter
• Scissors; blocking mats and pins

Gauge

22 sts and 28 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 6 (4 mm) needles, after blocking.

Work a swatch at least 6 in / 15 cm square, bind off, wash, and dry flat before measuring the center 4 in / 10 cm.

• Too few stitches to 4 in → try 3.75 mm.
• Too many stitches to 4 in → try 4.5 mm.

Row gauge of 7 rows per inch is assumed in the lengths below; measure your knitting rather than relying only on row counts.

Sizes

Instructions are for XS (S, M, L, XL).

EU 44 knitters: follow the third size (M) throughout.

Ease is about 4 in / 10 cm at the bust — a relaxed, slightly dropped shoulder. Choose the size closest to your bust measurement; if you are between sizes, the larger size gives a roomier drop-shoulder.

Abbreviations

BO — bind off
CC — contrast color (Protea)
CO — cast on
dec — decrease
inc — increase
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch (1 stitch increased)
MC — main color (Fynbos)
p — purl
pm — place marker
rem — remain(ing)
RS — right side
ssk — slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit the 2 slipped stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) — stitch(es)
St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows)
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over

Notes

• Worked flat, in pieces, from the bottom up, then seamed. This is the most beginner-friendly cardigan construction.
• Slightly dropped shoulders: a small underarm bind-off and a short sleeve cap. The shoulder seam sits a little off the natural shoulder. Sleeves look short until they are sewn in — that is correct; the dropped shoulder covers the top of the arm.
• Colors: Work all ribbing and the button band in CC (Protea). Work all stockinette (body and sleeves) in MC (Fynbos).
• 1×1 rib (worked flat): RS and WS: *k1, p1; repeat from * to end. Every size’s cast-on is an even number, so this rib sits evenly.
• Selvedge: Knit the first and last stitch of every RS row in stockinette (already included in the stitch counts). Use mattress stitch for seams.
• Women’s buttoning: Buttonholes are on the Right Front as worn (the front on your right when the cardigan is on). Buttons are sewn to the Left Front band.
• Two fronts at once: You may work both fronts at the same time from two balls of yarn so they stay the same length.
• Optional: if the ribbing flares on 4 mm, use US 4 (3.5 mm) for ribbing and the button band only. Body gauge must still be 22 sts = 4 in on 4 mm.

Back

With CC and 4 mm needles, CO 100 (110, 122, 132, 144) sts.

Work in 1×1 rib until the piece measures 4 in / 10 cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. (About 28 rows.)

Cut CC. Join MC.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Continue in St st (knit RS, purl WS) until the piece measures 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17) in / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes (slightly dropped)

BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

94 (102, 112, 120, 130) sts.
(100 − 3 − 3 = 94 ✓; 110 − 4 − 4 = 102 ✓; 122 − 5 − 5 = 112 ✓; 132 − 6 − 6 = 120 ✓; 144 − 7 − 7 = 130 ✓)

Work even in St st until the armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½) in / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm, ending after a WS row. Measure the armhole from the first bind-off row, not from the hem.

Divide for neck and shoulders

Next row (RS): BO 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts, knit until there are 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts on the right needle, place these 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts on a holder for the back neck, BO remaining 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts.

(29 + 36 + 29 = 94 ✓; 32 + 38 + 32 = 102 ✓; 36 + 40 + 36 = 112 ✓; 39 + 42 + 39 = 120 ✓; 43 + 44 + 43 = 130 ✓)

Fasten off. The two bind-off edges are the shoulders; the held stitches are the back neck.

Fronts

Left Front (as worn — buttons)

This is the front on your left when the cardigan is on. Neck shaping is at the beginning of RS rows; the armhole is at the beginning of WS rows.

With CC, CO 46 (52, 58, 62, 68) sts.

Work in 1×1 rib until the piece measures 4 in / 10 cm, ending after a WS row.

Cut CC. Join MC.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Continue in St st until the piece measures 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17) in / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a RS row (so the armhole bind-off is ready on the WS / side-seam edge).

Shape armhole

Next row (WS): BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, purl to end.

43 (48, 53, 56, 61) sts.
(46 − 3 = 43 ✓; 52 − 4 = 48 ✓; 58 − 5 = 53 ✓; 62 − 6 = 56 ✓; 68 − 7 = 61 ✓)

Work even in St st until the armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½) in / 11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm, ending after a WS row.

Shape neck

Next row (RS): BO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts, knit to end.

38 (42, 46, 49, 53) sts.
(43 − 5 = 38 ✓; 48 − 6 = 42 ✓; 53 − 7 = 46 ✓; 56 − 7 = 49 ✓; 61 − 8 = 53 ✓)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end. (1 st decreased at neck)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 8 (9, 9, 9, 9) more times — 9 (10, 10, 10, 10) neck decreases in total.

29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts.
(38 − 9 = 29 ✓; 42 − 10 = 32 ✓; 46 − 10 = 36 ✓; 49 − 10 = 39 ✓; 53 − 10 = 43 ✓)

Work even in St st, if needed, until the armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½) in / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm, matching the Back, ending after a WS row.

BO remaining 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts. This shoulder matches the Back left shoulder (29 = 29 ✓).

Right Front (as worn — buttonholes)

This is the front on your right when the cardigan is on. The armhole is at the beginning of RS rows; neck shaping is at the beginning of WS rows (bind-off) and the end of RS rows (decreases).

With CC, CO 46 (52, 58, 62, 68) sts.

Work in 1×1 rib until the piece measures 4 in / 10 cm, ending after a WS row.

Cut CC. Join MC.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Continue in St st until the piece measures 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17) in / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape armhole

Next row (RS): BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, knit to end.

43 (48, 53, 56, 61) sts. (same subtraction as Left Front ✓)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Work even in St st until the armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½) in / 11.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 16.5) cm, ending after a RS row.

Shape neck

Next row (WS): BO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts, purl to end.

38 (42, 46, 49, 53) sts.

Decrease row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (1 st decreased at neck)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 8 (9, 9, 9, 9) more times — 9 (10, 10, 10, 10) neck decreases in total.

29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts. (same remaining count as Left Front ✓)

Work even until the armhole matches the Back, ending after a WS row.

BO remaining 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts.

Sleeves

Make 2 alike.

With CC, CO 44 (48, 50, 52, 56) sts.

Work in 1×1 rib until the cuff measures 2 in / 5 cm, ending after a WS row. (About 14 rows.)

Cut CC. Join MC.

Next row (RS): Knit.

Increase row (RS): K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. (2 sts increased)

Purl 1 WS row.

Continue in St st, repeating the Increase row every 7th (7th, 6th, 5th, 5th) row 12 (13, 16, 18, 20) more times — 13 (14, 17, 19, 21) increase rows in total.

70 (76, 84, 90, 98) sts.
(44 + 13 × 2 = 70 ✓; 48 + 14 × 2 = 76 ✓; 50 + 17 × 2 = 84 ✓; 52 + 19 × 2 = 90 ✓; 56 + 21 × 2 = 98 ✓)

Work even in St st until the sleeve measures 16 (16½, 17, 17, 17½) in / 40.5 (42, 43, 43, 44.5) cm from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape shallow cap (slightly dropped)

BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

64 (68, 74, 78, 84) sts.
(70 − 3 − 3 = 64 ✓; 76 − 4 − 4 = 68 ✓; 84 − 5 − 5 = 74 ✓; 90 − 6 − 6 = 78 ✓; 98 − 7 − 7 = 84 ✓)

Cap decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) more times — 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) cap decrease rows in total.

56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts.
(64 − 4 × 2 = 56 ✓; 68 − 4 × 2 = 60 ✓; 74 − 5 × 2 = 64 ✓; 78 − 5 × 2 = 68 ✓; 84 − 6 × 2 = 72 ✓)

Work 2 (2, 2, 4, 4) rows even.

BO remaining 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts.

Button Bands

The band is picked up as one continuous strip around both fronts and the back neck, worked in CC to 1 in / 2.5 cm (25 mm). Complete the shoulder seams first (see Finishing, steps 1–2) so the neckline is a single edge.

With CC, 4 mm circular needle, and RS facing, begin at the Right Front hem:

1. Pick up and knit 117 (125, 130, 136, 142) sts evenly along the Right Front (center-front edge and front neck shaping, ending at the shoulder seam).
2. Knit across the 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) held back-neck sts.
3. Pick up and knit 117 (125, 130, 136, 142) sts evenly along the Left Front neck shaping and center-front edge, ending at the Left Front hem.

270 (288, 300, 314, 328) sts.
(117 + 36 + 117 = 270 ✓; 125 + 38 + 125 = 288 ✓; 130 + 40 + 130 = 300 ✓; 136 + 42 + 136 = 314 ✓; 142 + 44 + 142 = 328 ✓)

Pickup rate: about 3 sts for every 4 rows on vertical edges, and 1 st for every bound-off st on the neck. If you are 1 st off, inc or dec on the next row so the total is even (required for 1×1 rib).

Place a marker at the start of the Right Front neck (after the first 102 (108, 112, 118, 123) sts) so you know where the straight Right Front ends. Buttonholes are worked only on this straight section.

Row 1 (WS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 3 (WS): Work in rib as established.

Row 4 — Buttonhole row (RS): Work in rib along the Right Front straight section, making 7 evenly spaced buttonholes, with the lowest about ½ in / 1.5 cm from the hem and the highest about ½ in / 1.5 cm below the neck marker. Then rib to the end of the round of stitches (back neck and Left Front) with no buttonholes.

Buttonhole (on a k st of the rib): k2tog, yo. On the next row, work the yo as a purl (or as the rib requires) so a clean 1-st hole remains. If a hole would land on a p st, work yo, k2tog instead so the rib stays aligned.

Rows 5–6: Work in 1×1 rib.

Row 7 (WS): Bind off in rib (knit the knits and purl the purls as you bind off), keeping the edge even and not tight.

The 7 rows of band, including pickup as row 1 of the fabric thickness, measure 1 in / 2.5 cm (25 mm). If your row gauge is tighter or looser, work more or fewer even rib rows after the buttonholes so the finished band is exactly 25 mm, then bind off.

Finishing

1. Block all pieces to the schematic measurements. Soak in lukewarm water, press out water in a towel, and pin flat to dry. Do not stretch the ribbing.

2. Shoulder seams. With RS together (or RS facing for mattress stitch), join each Front shoulder to the matching Back shoulder — 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts each side. Mattress stitch from the RS gives a flat, beginner-friendly seam.

3. Set in sleeves. Match the sleeve underarm bind-offs to the body underarm bind-offs. Pin the center of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam, and ease the shallow cap around the armhole. Sew with mattress stitch. The cap is short on purpose; you should not have a puffy set-in head.

4. Side and sleeve seams. Sew each side seam from the top of the hem rib to the underarm, then sew the sleeve seam from cuff to underarm. For a tidy color join, seam the CC rib with CC and the MC stockinette with MC.

5. Button band. Work as given above (shoulders must be seamed first).

6. Buttons. Sew 7 buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes. Use the buttonholes as a placement guide. Anchor each button through both layers of the band.

7. Weave in ends. On the WS, weave each tail along a column of stitches for at least 2 in / 5 cm, then trim.

8. Final steam. Lightly steam the seams (hover the iron; do not press ribbing flat). Button the cardigan and check that the fronts sit evenly.

Wear notes: The slightly dropped shoulder is meant to sit 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm off the natural shoulder. If the cuffs feel long after wearing, you may fold them; if they feel short, the shoulder is sitting too far down — a firmer shoulder seam or a smaller size will lift it.

Enjoy your Fynbos & Protea cardigan.