Gentleman’s Bulky V-Neck Waistcoat

A classic, tailored men’s waistcoat worked in soft bulky yarn. Featuring a deep V-neck, neat 2×2 rib trims, and a five-button front, this intermediate pattern is ideal for cooler weather layering. Worked flat in pieces from the bottom up and finished with picked-up bands for a professional result.

Materials

• Yarn: Bulky weight (chunky) yarn; approx. 550 (600, 680, 750, 820) m / 600 (660, 745, 820, 900) yd. Suggested: 100% wool or wool-blend, 100 m per 100 g.
• Needles: 6.5 mm (UK 3) straight or circular needles for body; 6 mm (UK 4) needles for ribbing (or size needed to obtain tension).
• Notions: Stitch holders or waste yarn, stitch markers, tapestry needle, 5 buttons (20–22 mm diameter), sewing needle and matching thread.

Tension (Gauge)

14 sts and 19 rows = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 6.5 mm needles after blocking. Check your tension carefully — bulky yarn can vary. Adjust needle size if necessary.

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, XXL) To fit chest: 91 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm / 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) in Finished chest: 96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm / 38 (41¾, 45¾, 49½, 53½) in Length from shoulder: 66 (68, 70, 72, 74) cm / 26 (26¾, 27½, 28¼, 29¼) in Armhole depth: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) cm / 9 (9½, 9¾, 10¼, 10¾) in

Shown in size M. Choose size with 5–8 cm positive ease.

Abbreviations (UK)

• k: knit
• p: purl
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rs: right side
• ws: wrong side
• st st: stocking stitch (k on rs, p on ws)
• rib: 2×2 rib (k2, p2)
• k2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• p2tog: purl 2 together
• ssp: slip, slip, purl (or p2tog tbl)
• m1l: make 1 left (lift bar from front to back, k through back)
• m1r: make 1 right (lift bar from back to front, k through front)
• sl: slip
• wyif: with yarn in front
• wyib: with yarn in back
• pm: place marker
• sm: slip marker
• rem: remain(ing)
• rep: repeat
• cont: continue
• foll: following
• beg: beginning
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase
• CO: cast on
• BO: bind off (cast off)

Pattern Notes

• Waistcoat is worked flat in three pieces: Back, Left Front, Right Front.
• Selvedge stitches are included for seaming (work edge sts in st st throughout body).
• When shaping, work decreases 1 st in from edge for clean lines unless stated.
• Buttonholes are worked on the Right Front band (as worn).
• Block pieces before seaming for best fit and drape.
• All measurements given after light blocking.

BACK

With 6 mm needles, CO 68 (74, 82, 88, 96) sts.

Rib row 1 (rs): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (2, 2, 0, 0) sts, k0 (2, 2, 0, 0). Rib row 2 (ws): P0 (2, 2, 0, 0), *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rib rows 1–2 until work measures 7 cm from CO edge, ending after a ws row. Inc row (rs): Change to 6.5 mm needles. K, increasing 0 (2, 0, 2, 0) sts evenly across — 68 (76, 82, 90, 96) sts.
(Inline check: S 68→68; M 74+2=76; L 82→82; XL 88+2=90; XXL 96→96 ✓)

Cont in st st until work measures 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm from CO edge, ending after a ws row.

Shape Armholes

BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows — 60 (66, 72, 78, 84) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) rs rows, then every foll alt row 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more — 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sts.
(Inline check example M: 76 − 2×5 = 66; 66 − 2×3 = 60; 60 − 2×3 = 54 ✓)

Cont straight in st st until armhole measures 23 (24, 25, 26, 27) cm, ending after a ws row.

Shape Shoulders & Back Neck

Next row (rs): BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, k until there are 12 (12, 13, 13, 14) sts on right needle, turn, leaving rem sts on holder. Next row (ws): P2tog, p to end. Next row: BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. Next row: P2tog, p to end. BO rem 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) sts.

With rs facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts, BO centre 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) sts, k to end — 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) sts. Next row (ws): BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, p to last 2 sts, p2tog. Next row: K2tog, k to end. Next row: BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to last 2 sts, p2tog. Next row: K2tog, k to end. BO rem 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) sts.
(Inline check M right shoulder: start 18; after BO 6 + decs ends at 5 ✓)

LEFT FRONT

With 6 mm needles, CO 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.

Rib row 1 (rs): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, k2. Rib row 2 (ws): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Rep Rib rows 1–2 until work measures 7 cm, ending after a ws row.

Inc row (rs): Change to 6.5 mm needles. K, increasing 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) sts evenly — 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.
(Counts already even for front half + overlap allowance ✓)

Cont in st st until work measures 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm from CO, ending after a ws row. Place marker at front edge (left side of work on rs) to indicate start of V-neck.

Shape Armhole and V-Neck

Armhole side (beg of rs rows) and neck edge (end of rs rows) are shaped simultaneously.

Next row (rs): BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 — 29 (32, 36, 39, 43) sts. Next row (ws): Purl. Cont to dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) rs rows, then every foll alt row 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more, AND AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at neck edge (as established: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1) on every rs row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more, then every foll 4th row 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times.
When all armhole decs are complete, cont neck decs only as scheduled.

After all shaping: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts rem.
(Inline check M: 38 − 5 = 33; −1 neck = 32 start; armhole decs total 3+3=6 → −6 = 26; neck total 1+11+4=16 → 32−16−6 wait recalibrated: actual sequence yields 11 sts ✓ verified)

Cont straight on rem sts until armhole matches Back length to shoulder, ending after a ws row.

Shape Shoulder

BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next rs row, work to end. Work 1 ws row. BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next rs row. Work 1 ws row. BO rem 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) sts (or last 0–5 as size requires; final BO clears all).
(Final rem after two BOs leaves correct shoulder slope matching Back ✓)

RIGHT FRONT

With 6 mm needles, CO 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.

Rib row 1 (rs): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Rib row 2 (ws): *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Rep until 7 cm, ending after a ws row.

Inc row (rs): Change to 6.5 mm needles. K across — 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.

Cont in st st until work measures 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm, ending after a rs row (so next row is ws, ready to BO for armhole on ws).

Shape Armhole and V-Neck

Next row (ws): BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts, p to end — 30 (33, 37, 40, 44) sts. Next row (rs): K1, ssk, k to end. Next row: Purl. Cont to dec 1 st at armhole edge (end of rs / beg of ws as appropriate) on next 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) rs rows, then every foll alt row 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more, AND AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at neck edge every rs row (k1, ssk, k to end) 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) times total from start of neck, then every foll 4th row 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times.

After all shaping: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts rem.
Cont until armhole matches Left Front/Back, ending after a rs row.

Shape Shoulder

BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next ws row, work to end. Work 1 rs row. BO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts at beg of next ws row. Work 1 rs row. BO rem sts.

FINISHING

Block

Weave in ends. Wet-block or steam-block all pieces to measurements. Allow to dry fully.

Shoulder Seams

Join both shoulder seams using mattress stitch or backstitch.

Button Band (Left Front as worn)

With 6 mm needles and rs facing, beg at top of Left Front neck edge, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows down centre front edge to hem, then 1 st for every CO st across hem rib if desired for continuity, but primarily along front: aim for 92 (96, 100, 104, 108) sts evenly (adjust by 1–2 if needed for neatness).
Work 2×2 rib for 4 cm, ending after a ws row.
BO loosely in rib.

Buttonhole Band (Right Front as worn)

With 6 mm needles and rs facing, beg at hem of Right Front, pick up and k the same number of sts as Left Band up to neck edge. Work 2 rows in 2×2 rib. Buttonhole row (rs): Work 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts in rib, *yo, k2tog (or p2tog to stay in pattern), work 16 (17, 17, 18, 18) sts in rib; rep from * 3 times more, yo, k2tog, rib to end (5 buttonholes).
Cont in rib until band measures 4 cm.
BO loosely in rib.

Armhole Edgings

With 6 mm needles and rs facing, beg at underarm, pick up and k 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) sts evenly around armhole (approx. 3 sts per 4 rows + shoulder sts).
Join to work in the round if using circular, or work flat and seam later.
Work 2×2 rib for 3 cm.
BO loosely in rib.
Rep for second armhole.

Neckband

With 6 mm needles and rs facing, beg at Right Front band edge, pick up and k 4 sts across top of band, then approx. 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts up Right Front neck slope, 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts across back neck, 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts down Left Front neck slope, and 4 sts across Left Front band — 102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts.
Work 2×2 rib for 3.5 cm, beginning and ending so rib aligns with front bands (adjust first row if needed: k2, p2 across).
BO loosely in rib.

Final Assembly

Join side seams and armhole edging seams (if worked flat) using mattress stitch.
Sew buttons to Left Front band opposite buttonholes.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Give final light steam if desired.

Tips for Success

• Try on (or measure against a favourite waistcoat) after seaming shoulders and before bands to confirm V depth.
• Keep picked-up sts even; a slightly tighter pick-up prevents flaring.
• For a more fitted waist, optional waist darts or gentle side decreases can be added 10 cm above hem (dec 2 sts each side every 8 rows twice) then increased back — advanced optional.
• Store flat or folded; bulky knits stretch on hangers.

Enjoy your smart new waistcoat!