HALF-ENGLISH RIB VEST (ЖИЛЕТКА В ПОЛУАНГЛИЙСКИ ЛАСТИК)

A classic V-neck vest worked entirely in half-English rib (полуанглийский ластик) on a knitting machine with ribber. Soft, elastic fabric with vertical texture. Designed for beginners comfortable with basic ribber cast-on, transfers, and hold.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted weight (approx. 9 wpi), 900 (1000, 1100, 1200) yd / 820 (915, 1005, 1100) m
• Machine: Standard gauge (4.5 mm) or mid-gauge (6–6.5 mm) with ribber attachment. Punchcard or electronic fine; no patterning required.
• Tools: Cast-on comb, ravel cord, claw weights + ribber weights, transfer tool (1- and 2-prong), latch tool, tapestry needle, scrap yarn
• Optional: 1x1 needle pusher, garter bar (not required)

TENSION / GAUGE

• Half-English rib: Tension T6 (mid-gauge) or T8–T9 (standard gauge) on both beds
• Gauge: 16 sts and 22 rows = 4" (10 cm) measured on blocked half-English rib fabric after resting
• 1x1 rib bands: same tension or T5/T7 (one full number tighter)
• Always knit a 40-st × 40-row swatch, wash/block, and measure. Adjust T dial until gauge is matched. Row gauge is critical for length.

SIZES

S (M, L, XL) Finished bust: 36 (40, 44, 48)" / 91 (102, 112, 122) cm (rib has stretch; 0–2" negative ease recommended) Length: 24 (25, 26, 27)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5) cm Armhole depth: 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5)" / 20 (21.5, 23, 24) cm Choose size by finished bust closest to body bust minus 0–2".

ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE TERMS

• MB: main bed
• RB: ribber bed
• COR / COL: carriage on right / left
• RC: row counter
• T#: tension dial setting
• NWP / WP: non-working position / working position
• HP: holding position
• EON: every other needle
• FNR: full needle rib (every needle both beds)
• CO: cast on
• BO: bind off
• dec: decrease
• st(s): stitch(es)
• R / L: right / left as worn
• half-English rib: MB knits every row; RB tucks every other row (see setup)

PATTERN NOTES

• Half-English rib setup (Brother-style; adapt to your brand):
  1. Pitch: H (half-pitch).
  2. Needle arrangement: every needle both beds (FNR).
  3. Cast on with waste yarn + ravel cord in FNR, then change to main yarn.
  4. Carriage settings for pattern: MB both ways N (knit); RB one direction N, opposite direction T (tuck). Or use lili buttons / circular settings if preferred so RB tucks every other row automatically. Result is classic полуанглийский ластик.
  5. Hang enough weights (cast-on comb + side claws + ribber weights) and move them up every 20–30 rows.
• Always note carriage side (COR/COL) before shaping.
• Decreases: transfer edge st to adjacent needle with 1-prong tool, then move empty needle to NWP (or leave in WP and hand-knit later if preferred for selvedge). For 2-st dec use 2-prong.
• Keep edge stitches firm; do not pull weights unevenly.
• Electronic machines: no pattern card needed; manual settings only.
• Beginner tip: Practice the tuck setting on a 20-st swatch until fabric looks even.

BACK

Machine setup

• MB + RB, H pitch, every needle both beds.
• T6 (or T8–9 standard).
• Cast on with waste yarn and ravel cord over 72 (80, 88, 96) needles FNR. Knit 6–8 rows waste.
• RC 000. COR. Change to main yarn. Hang cast-on comb and weights.

Rib hem (optional but recommended)

• Set both beds to N (knit). Knit 12 rows 1×1-style FNR (or convert to true 1×1 if desired by transferring).
• RC 012. COR.

Begin half-English rib

• Set carriages for half-English rib (MB N both ways; RB tuck every other row).
• Knit in pattern until RC 088 (092, 096, 100). Piece measures approx 16 (16.5, 17, 17.5)" from CO. COR.

Shape armholes

• BO 4 (5, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows (use transfer tool or latch-tool BO).
• Then dec 1 st each side every 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 5) times.
  Method: COR, transfer outermost st inward, needle to NWP; knit across; COL, repeat left side.
• Stitch count after shaping: 56 (62, 68, 74) sts.
• RC 104 (110, 116, 122). COR.
• Continue straight in half-English rib until armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5)", RC 132 (140, 148, 156). COR.

Shape back neck and shoulders

• Place center 20 (22, 24, 26) sts on waste yarn or in HP.
• Working each side separately:
  – At neck edge dec 1 st every row 2 times.
  – At the same time, at armhole edge BO 8 (9, 10, 11) sts once, then remaining 9 (10, 11, 12) sts.
• Repeat for opposite shoulder (reset RC or note rows).
• Total shoulder sts each side: 18 (20, 22, 24). Final RC approx 136 (144, 152, 160).

LEFT FRONT

Machine setup

• Same as Back. CO 36 (40, 44, 48) sts FNR with waste + ravel cord.
• RC 000. COR. Main yarn.

Rib hem

• Knit 12 rows FNR. RC 012. COR.

Half-English rib

• Set for half-English. Knit to RC 088 (092, 096, 100). COR. Same length as Back to armhole.

Shape armhole (right side of bed = armhole edge)

• BO 4 (5, 5, 6) sts at armhole edge (beg of knit row when COR).
• Dec 1 st at armhole edge every 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 5) times.
• Stitch count: 28 (31, 34, 37) sts. RC 104 (110, 116, 122).

Shape V-neck (left side of bed = neck edge)

• At the same time as final armhole decs or immediately after, begin neck:
  – Dec 1 st at neck edge every 3 rows 10 (11, 12, 13) times.
  Method: when COL (neck edge), transfer edge st inward, needle NWP; knit; continue.
• After all decs: 18 (20, 22, 24) sts remain for shoulder.
• Continue straight until armhole matches Back, RC 132 (140, 148, 156). COR.
• BO remaining 18 (20, 22, 24) shoulder sts (or place on waste for later 3-needle BO).

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, reversing all shaping.

• Armhole shaping on left side of bed.
• V-neck decreases on right side of bed (when COR).
• Same RC checkpoints and stitch counts.

FINISHING

1. Join shoulders

   • Rehang Front and Back shoulder sts on MB, right sides together, and latch-tool BO or use 3-needle BO by hand.
   • Or mattress-stitch seaming if preferred.

2. Side seams

   • Mattress stitch or fine back-stitch from hem to armhole, matching rows. Keep seam elastic.

3. Armhole bands

   • With MB only (or MB+RB for 1×1), pick up 64 (68, 72, 76) sts evenly around each armhole (approx 1 st every row).
   • T5–6. Knit 8–10 rows 1×1 rib (transfer EON to RB if using ribber).
   • Latch-tool BO loosely or transfer to scrap and hand BO.
   • Repeat for second armhole.

4. Neck band

   • Pick up sts around neck: approx 20 (22, 24, 26) from back neck + 28 (30, 32, 34) down each front V (total ~76 (82, 88, 94) sts).
   • Place marker at V center.
   • Knit 8–10 rows 1×1 rib, decreasing 1 st each side of center V every other row (transfer to create miter).
   • BO loosely in rib.

5. Final

   • Weave all ends.
   • Light steam or wet-block to measurements; do not press flat or stretch width excessively—rib should remain springy.
   • Hang with weights or lay flat to dry.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS

• Reset RC at every major section and write the number on a sticky note.
• If stitches drop on RB, check tuck lever and weights immediately.
• For a men’s version, add 1–2" length and slightly deeper armholes.
• Matching yarn dye lots is essential; rib shows color variation.

Enjoy your жилетка! The half-English rib gives beautiful elasticity and a professional hand-knit look straight from the machine.