Istanwool Rope Cable Cardigan

A relaxed, seamed cardigan in worsted-weight Etrofil Istanwool with simple 4-stitch rope cables. Pieces are worked flat from the bottom up in stockinette with easy C4F panels, then sewn together. Button bands are picked up last. Designed for a first cable project: one cable, no charts required.

MATERIALS

Yarn: Etrofil Istanwool (50% wool, 50% acrylic; 262 yd / 240 m per 100 g ball), worsted weight

• 5 (6, 7, 8, 8) balls, or approximately 1310 (1570, 1835, 2100, 2100) yd / 1200 (1435, 1680, 1920, 1920) m
• Any worsted yarn that matches gauge may be substituted; cables use a little extra yarn, so buy one extra ball if substituting

Needles:

• US 5 (3.75 mm) straight or circular needles, for ribbing and button bands
• US 7 (4.5 mm) straight or circular needles, for the main fabric
• Cable needle
• Adjust needle size if needed to obtain gauge

Notions:

• 6 stitch markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• 6 buttons, ¾" (19 mm) diameter

GAUGE

20 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, blocked.

Cable Panel (8 sts) measures about 1¼" (3 cm) wide after blocking.

Take time to check gauge. Cables draw the fabric in slightly; measurements given are based on stockinette gauge and will be a little closer to the body until the pieces are blocked.

SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL)

To fit bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)" (81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) cm)

Finished measurements (after blocking, with fronts buttoned):

• Bust: 37½ (40½, 46¼, 50¼, 53½)" (95 (103, 117.5, 127.5, 136) cm)
• Back length: 23 (23½, 24½, 25, 26)" (58.5 (59.5, 62, 63.5, 66) cm)
• Length to underarm: 15½ (15½, 16, 16, 16½)" (39.5 (39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42) cm)
• Armhole depth: 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" (19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm)
• Sleeve length to underarm: 17½ (18, 18, 18½, 18½)" (44.5 (45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) cm)
• Upper arm: 12 (13¼, 14, 15½, 17¼)" (30.5 (33.5, 35.5, 39.5, 44) cm)

Shown with about 4–6" (10–15 cm) of ease. Choose the size closest to your bust plus the ease you like. Instructions are written for XS with S, M, L, and XL in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Circle or highlight your size before you begin.

ABBREVIATIONS

• BO — bind off
• C4F — cable 4 front: slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle
• cn — cable needle
• CO — cast on
• dec — decrease(s) / decreasing
• inc — increase(s) / increasing
• k — knit
• k2tog — knit 2 sts together (right-leaning decrease)
• kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (1 st increased)
• p — purl
• pm — place marker
• rem — remain(ing)
• rep — repeat
• RS — right side
• ssk — slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit those 2 sts together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease)
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows)
• WS — wrong side
• yo — yarn over

NOTES

• Cardigan is worked flat in five pieces (back, two fronts, two sleeves) from the hem up, then seamed. Button bands are picked up after the shoulder seams are sewn.

• Selvedge: Knit the first and last stitch of every row. These edge stitches make mattress-stitch seaming easier and are included in the stitch counts.

• Cable Panel (8 sts) — work these 8 rows for every panel:

  Row 1 (RS): P2, C4F, P2. Row 2 (WS): K2, P4, K2. Row 3: P2, K4, P2. Row 4: K2, P4, K2. Row 5: P2, K4, P2. Row 6: K2, P4, K2. Row 7: P2, K4, P2. Row 8: K2, P4, K2.

  Repeat Rows 1–8. You only cable on Row 1; the other RS rows are purl-knit-purl so the rope stands out.

• On WS rows outside the panels, purl the stockinette stitches (knit the selvedge sts). Work every stitch as it faces you: knit the knits, purl the purls, with markers keeping each 8-st panel in place.

• C4F tip: Slide 2 stitches onto the cable needle, let it drop to the front, knit the next 2 stitches as usual, then knit the 2 from the cable needle. Pull the working yarn snug after the first stitch off the cable needle so no hole forms.

• Sleeve increases use kfb, worked 1 stitch in from each edge so the selvedge stays neat.

• Read the whole pattern once before casting on. Use a row counter for the 8-row cable repeat.

BACK

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 90 (98, 110, 122, 130) sts.

Ribbing Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. These 2 rows form k2, p2 rib with a k2 column at each edge (90 = 4 × 22 + 2 ✓). Repeat Rows 1–2 until ribbing measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from the cast-on, ending with a WS row.

Body Change to US 7 (4.5 mm) needles.

Set-up row (RS): K1 (selvedge), k16 (18, 21, 24, 26), pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, k16 (18, 21, 24, 26), pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, k16 (18, 21, 24, 26), pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, k16 (18, 21, 24, 26), k1 (selvedge). (Check: 1 + 16 + 8 + 16 + 8 + 16 + 8 + 16 + 1 = 90 ✓; 1 + 18 + 8 + 18 + 8 + 18 + 8 + 18 + 1 = 98 ✓; 1 + 21 + 8 + 21 + 8 + 21 + 8 + 21 + 1 = 110 ✓; 1 + 24 + 8 + 24 + 8 + 24 + 8 + 24 + 1 = 122 ✓; 1 + 26 + 8 + 26 + 8 + 26 + 8 + 26 + 1 = 130 ✓.)

Next row (WS): K1, work in established pattern to last st (purl the stockinette sections; work Cable Panel Row 2 between markers), k1.

Continue in pattern (St st with 3 Cable Panels; knit the first and last st of every row; advance the 8-row cable repeat) until the piece measures 15½ (15½, 16, 16, 16½)" (39.5 (39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42) cm) from the cast-on, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 82 (90, 100, 112, 118) sts remain (90 − 4 × 2 = 82 ✓; 98 − 8 = 90 ✓; 110 − 10 = 100 ✓; 122 − 10 = 112 ✓; 130 − 12 = 118 ✓).

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (2 sts decreased). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times — 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) decrease rows total, 76 (82, 92, 102, 108) sts remain (82 − 3 × 2 = 76 ✓; 90 − 8 = 82 ✓; 100 − 8 = 92 ✓; 112 − 10 = 102 ✓; 118 − 10 = 108 ✓).

Work even in pattern until the armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" (19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm), ending with a WS row.

BO all sts. Place a marker 20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts in from each edge to mark the shoulders. The center 36 (38, 42, 46, 48) sts are the back neck (20 + 36 + 20 = 76 ✓; 22 + 38 + 22 = 82 ✓; 25 + 42 + 25 = 92 ✓; 28 + 46 + 28 = 102 ✓; 30 + 48 + 30 = 108 ✓).

FRONTS

Right Front

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 46 (50, 58, 62, 66) sts.

Ribbing Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. (46 = 4 × 11 + 2 ✓.) Work as for Back ribbing until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Body Change to US 7 (4.5 mm) needles.

Set-up row (RS): K1 (selvedge), k6 (8, 10, 12, 14), pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, knit to last st, k1. (Check: 1 + 6 + 8 + 30 + 1 = 46 ✓; 1 + 8 + 8 + 32 + 1 = 50 ✓; 1 + 10 + 8 + 38 + 1 = 58 ✓; 1 + 12 + 8 + 40 + 1 = 62 ✓; 1 + 14 + 8 + 42 + 1 = 66 ✓.)

Next row (WS): K1, work in established pattern to last st, k1.

Continue in pattern until the piece measures 15½ (15½, 16, 16, 16½)" (39.5 (39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42) cm) from the cast-on, ending with a RS row (armhole is at the side edge, which is the end of a RS row).

Shape armhole Next row (WS): BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, work in pattern to last st, k1 — 42 (46, 53, 57, 60) sts remain (46 − 4 = 42 ✓; 50 − 4 = 46 ✓; 58 − 5 = 53 ✓; 62 − 5 = 57 ✓; 66 − 6 = 60 ✓).

Decrease row (RS): Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (armhole edge). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times — 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) decrease rows total, 39 (42, 49, 52, 55) sts remain (42 − 3 = 39 ✓; 46 − 4 = 42 ✓; 53 − 4 = 49 ✓; 57 − 5 = 52 ✓; 60 − 5 = 55 ✓).

Work even in pattern until the armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4, 4½, 4¾)" (9.5 (10, 10, 11.5, 12) cm), ending with a WS row.

Shape neck Next row (RS): BO 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts (neck edge), work in pattern to end — 31 (34, 39, 42, 45) sts remain (39 − 8 = 31 ✓; 42 − 8 = 34 ✓; 49 − 10 = 39 ✓; 52 − 10 = 42 ✓; 55 − 10 = 45 ✓). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Neck decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to end (1 st decreased at neck). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 (11, 13, 13, 14) more times — 11 (12, 14, 14, 15) neck decreases total, 20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts remain (31 − 11 = 20 ✓; 34 − 12 = 22 ✓; 39 − 14 = 25 ✓; 42 − 14 = 28 ✓; 45 − 15 = 30 ✓).

Work even (if needed) until the armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" (19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm), matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

BO remaining 20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts (shoulder).

Left Front

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 46 (50, 58, 62, 66) sts.

Work ribbing as for Right Front until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Body Change to US 7 (4.5 mm) needles.

Set-up row (RS): K1 (selvedge), knit until 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) sts remain, pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, k6 (8, 10, 12, 14), k1 (selvedge). (Check: last 15 sts = 8 + 6 + 1 ✓; 1 + 30 + 8 + 6 + 1 = 46 ✓.)

Next row (WS): K1, work in established pattern to last st, k1.

Continue in pattern until the piece measures 15½ (15½, 16, 16, 16½)" (39.5 (39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42) cm) from the cast-on, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole Next row (RS): BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, work in pattern to end — 42 (46, 53, 57, 60) sts remain (46 − 4 = 42 ✓). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to end (armhole edge). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times — 39 (42, 49, 52, 55) sts remain (42 − 3 = 39 ✓).

Work even in pattern until the armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4, 4½, 4¾)" (9.5 (10, 10, 11.5, 12) cm), ending with a RS row.

Shape neck Next row (WS): BO 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts (neck edge), work in pattern to last st, k1 — 31 (34, 39, 42, 45) sts remain (39 − 8 = 31 ✓).

Neck decrease row (RS): Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (1 st decreased at neck). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 (11, 13, 13, 14) more times — 20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts remain (31 − 11 = 20 ✓).

Work even (if needed) until the armhole measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" (19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm), matching the Back.

BO remaining 20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts (shoulder).

SLEEVES

(Make 2 alike.)

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles, CO 40 (44, 44, 48, 52) sts.

Cuff Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end. Work in k2, p2 rib until cuff measures 2½" (6.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Sleeve body Change to US 7 (4.5 mm) needles.

Set-up row (RS): K16 (18, 18, 20, 22), pm, work Cable Panel Row 1 over next 8 sts, pm, k16 (18, 18, 20, 22). (Check: 16 + 8 + 16 = 40 ✓; 18 + 8 + 18 = 44 ✓; 20 + 8 + 20 = 48 ✓; 22 + 8 + 22 = 52 ✓.)

Next row (WS): K1, work in established pattern to last st, k1.

Work 8 (6, 6, 4, 4) more rows even in pattern.

Increase row (RS): K1, kfb, work in pattern to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (2 sts increased). Work 9 (7, 7, 5, 5) rows even in pattern.

Repeat the last 10 (8, 8, 6, 6) rows (increase row + even rows) 9 (10, 12, 14, 16) more times — 10 (11, 13, 15, 17) increase rows total, 60 (66, 70, 78, 86) sts (40 + 10 × 2 = 60 ✓; 44 + 11 × 2 = 66 ✓; 44 + 13 × 2 = 70 ✓; 48 + 15 × 2 = 78 ✓; 52 + 17 × 2 = 86 ✓).

The extra stitches are always added at the edges, so the 8-st cable stays centered.

Work even in pattern until the sleeve measures 17½ (18, 18, 18½, 18½)" (44.5 (45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) cm) from the cast-on, ending with a WS row.

Shape cap BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 52 (58, 60, 68, 74) sts remain (60 − 8 = 52 ✓; 66 − 8 = 58 ✓; 70 − 10 = 60 ✓; 78 − 10 = 68 ✓; 86 − 12 = 74 ✓).

Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (2 sts decreased). Next row (WS): K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 15 (17, 18, 20, 22) more times — 16 (18, 19, 21, 23) decrease rows total, 20 (22, 22, 26, 28) sts remain (52 − 16 × 2 = 20 ✓; 58 − 36 = 22 ✓; 60 − 38 = 22 ✓; 68 − 42 = 26 ✓; 74 − 46 = 28 ✓).

BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows — 12 (14, 14, 18, 20) sts remain (20 − 8 = 12 ✓; 22 − 8 = 14 ✓; 26 − 8 = 18 ✓; 28 − 8 = 20 ✓).

BO remaining 12 (14, 14, 18, 20) sts.

BUTTON_BANDS

Sew the shoulder seams first (see Finishing) so you can pick up the neck in one pass.

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles and RS facing, beginning at the lower Right Front corner (as worn):

• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along the Right Front edge from the hem to the start of neck shaping
• Pick up and knit 1 st in each bound-off neck st plus 1 st in every other row along the Right Front neck slope
• Pick up and knit 36 (38, 42, 46, 48) sts across the Back neck
• Pick up along the Left Front neck slope to match the right
• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows down the Left Front edge to the hem

Target: 268 (280, 296, 308, 320) sts (a multiple of 4, for k2, p2 rib ✓). If you are 1–3 sts off, increase or decrease evenly on the first rib row to hit the target.

Row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Work 2 more rows in established rib (4 rows total; band measures about ½" / 1.5 cm).

Buttonhole row (RS): The buttonholes sit on the Right Front (as worn). Place 6 markers on the Right Front pickup section only: the first about ¾" (2 cm) up from the hem, the last about ½" (1.5 cm) below the start of neck shaping, and the remaining 4 spaced evenly between them.

Work in rib to the first buttonhole marker, *yo, k2tog, work in rib to the next marker; rep from * for all 6 buttonholes, then work in rib to end.

Continue in rib until the band measures 1¼" (3 cm) from the pickup row. BO in rib pattern (use k2tog/p2tog as needed so the bind-off stays elastic).

FINISHING

1. Block all pieces to the schematic measurements, pinning the cable panels so they lie flat but still show their 3-D texture. Let dry completely.
2. Shoulders: With RS together (or RS facing you if using mattress stitch), join each Front shoulder to the matching Back shoulder (20 (22, 25, 28, 30) sts each side).
3. Button bands: Work as given in Button Bands.
4. Set in sleeves: Match the center of each sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and the sleeve underarm bind-offs to the body armhole bind-offs. Ease the cap into the armhole and sew.
5. Side and sleeve seams: Mattress-stitch each side seam from hem to underarm, then the sleeve seam from cuff to underarm. Align the rib columns as you sew.
6. Buttons: Sew 6 buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes.
7. Weave in all ends. Steam the seams lightly if needed. Do not flatten the cables.

Wear and care: Hand wash cool, lay flat to dry. Cables bloom after the first blocking — that is what you want.