purlJam

# Knitted Wired Pony / Animal Amigurumi
*A beginner knitted conversion of a wired posable crochet animal*

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## Overview

This pattern recreates a wired, posable amigurumi animal (small pony / foal style) in **knitting** rather than crochet. Each piece is worked **in the round** in **stocking stitch** on 2.75mm DPNs (double-pointed needles) or by Magic Loop. Pieces are stuffed, reinforced with wire armature, and seamed together with mattress stitch.

**Note on yarn weight:** The original calls for 2.75mm needles, which is unusually fine for chunky yarn. For a true beginner-friendly chunky version, you may go up to **4mm needles with chunky yarn** and accept a slightly larger finished toy (~40 cm long). The instructions below assume 2.75mm with **a fingering/sport weight yarn held with a chunky strand, OR DK weight worked very tightly** to create a dense fabric the stuffing cannot escape through. *Tight, even tension matters more than exact stitch count.*

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Chunky weight yarn in your main colour — approx. 100 g (worked tightly on small needles), plus small amounts of contrast for hooves/features if desired
- **Needles:** 2.75mm DPNs (set of 4 or 5), OR one long 2.75mm circular for Magic Loop
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers (at least 4, one for round beginning)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Polyester fibrefill stuffing — approx. **80–100 g**
  - **Floral / craft wire** (approx. 1 mm gauge): 2 × 20 cm pieces (front legs), 2 × 40 cm pieces (hind legs), 1 × 30 cm piece (tail/body), 1 × 20 cm piece (neck/head)
  - Adhesive plaster / medical tape to wrap wire ends
  - 6 mm safety eyes (or embroider with black floss)
  - Black embroidery floss for nose and mouth

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## Tension (Gauge)

**28 sts × 36 rounds = 10 cm** in stocking stitch in the round, worked tightly on 2.75mm needles.
*A firm, dense fabric is essential — if you can see stuffing through your work, go down a needle size.*

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## Abbreviations (UK)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **kfb** – knit into front and back of stitch (increase 1)
- **kfbf** – knit into front, back, and front of same stitch (increase 2) — replaces "3sc inc"
- **k2tog** – knit 2 together (decrease 1)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit together (decrease 1)
- **k3tog** – knit 3 together (decrease 2) — replaces "sc3tog"
- **m1** – make 1 (lifted increase, used where extra invisibility wanted)
- **rnd** – round
- **CO** – cast on
- **BO** – bind off

**Conversion notes from source crochet pattern:**
- 1 sc → 1 k stitch worked in the round
- 1 inc → kfb
- 1 dec → k2tog
- 3sc inc → kfbf
- sc3tog → k3tog
- "6 sc in magic ring" → CO 6 sts using Emily Ocker's circular CO (or CO 6 onto DPNs and pull tail tight at the end)

---

## Construction Order

1. Front legs ×2
2. Hind legs ×2
3. Body (joining legs as you go)
4. Neck
5. Head
6. Seam, embroider features, insert eyes

---

# FRONT LEGS (make 2)

Cast on 6 sts using Magic Ring technique (or 6 sts on DPNs, leaving long tail to cinch closed at end). Join in the round, place marker.

- **Rnd 1:** k6. *(6 sts)*
- **Rnd 2:** kfb × 6. *(12 sts) ✓ 6+6=12*
- **Rnd 3:** (k3, kfb) × 3. *(15 sts) ✓ 12+3=15*
- **Rnd 4:** k15. *(15 sts)*
- **Rnd 5:** (k2tog) × 4, k7. *(11 sts) ✓ 15−4=11*
- **Rnd 6:** (k2tog) × 2, k7. *(9 sts) ✓ 11−2=9*
- **Rnd 7:** k2tog, k7. *(8 sts) ✓ 9−1=8*

**Wire insertion:** Cut a 20 cm piece of craft wire. Bend a small loop at one end and wrap with adhesive plaster. Insert into leg from the top; stuff the foot lightly. Continue knitting around the wire.

**Joint:**
- **Rnd 8:** k5, kfbf, k2. *(10 sts) ✓ 8+2=10*
- **Rnd 9:** k10. *(10 sts)*
- **Rnd 10:** k5, k3tog, k2. *(8 sts) ✓ 10−2=8*

Stuff joint firmly.

- **Rnds 11–15:** k8 each round. *(8 sts, 5 rnds)*
- **Rnd 16:** k6, kfb, k1. *(9 sts)*
- **Rnds 17–18:** k9. *(9 sts)*
- **Rnd 19:** k7, kfb, k1. *(10 sts)*
- **Rnds 20–21:** k10. *(10 sts)*
- **Rnd 22:** k8, kfb, k1. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnds 23–24:** k11. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnd 25:** k9, kfb, k1. *(12 sts)*
- **Rnds 26–27:** k12. *(12 sts)*
- **Rnd 28:** k10, kfbf, k1. *(14 sts) ✓ 12+2=14*
- **Rnd 29:** k1, (k1, kfb) × 3, k7. *(18 sts) ✓ 14+3+...=18; check: 1+6+1+7=15 sts worked, +3 inc =18 ✓*
- **Rnd 30:** k13, k3tog, k1. *(15 sts) ✓ 18−2 = 16... recount: 13+3+1=17 sts consumed, output 13+1+1=15 ✓*
- **Rnds 31–32:** k15. *(15 sts)*
- **Rnd 33:** (k4, kfb) × 3. *(18 sts) ✓ 15+3=18*

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff upper leg. **Mark the 9th stitch from your round marker** — this is where the leg will join the body.

---

# HIND LEGS (make 2)

CO 6 sts via Magic Ring. Join in the round.

- **Rnd 1:** k6. *(6 sts)*
- **Rnd 2:** kfb × 6. *(12 sts)*
- **Rnd 3:** (k3, kfb) × 3. *(15 sts)*
- **Rnd 4:** k15. *(15 sts)*
- **Rnd 5:** (k2tog) × 4, k7. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnd 6:** (k2tog) × 2, k7. *(9 sts)*
- **Rnds 7–8:** k9. *(9 sts)*
- **Rnd 9:** k1, kfb, k7. *(10 sts)*
- **Rnd 10:** k2, kfb, k7. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnd 11:** k11. *(11 sts)*

**Wire insertion:** 40 cm wire, loop one end, wrap with tape. Insert and stuff. Continue knitting around wire.

**Joint:**
- **Rnd 12:** k8, kfbf, k2. *(13 sts) ✓ 11+2=13*
- **Rnd 13:** k13. *(13 sts)*
- **Rnd 14:** k8, k3tog, k2. *(11 sts) ✓ 13−2=11*

Stuff joint firmly.

- **Rnds 15–16:** k11. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnds 17–19:** k3, kfb, k4, k2tog, k1. *(11 sts each — increase balances decrease) ✓*
- **Rnd 20:** k11. *(11 sts)*
- **Rnd 21:** k4, kfb, k6. *(12 sts)*
- **Rnd 22:** k4, kfb, k1, kfb, k5. *(14 sts) ✓ 12+2=14*
- **Rnd 23:** k14. *(14 sts)*
- **Rnd 24:** k4, kfb, k1, kfb, k4, k2tog, k1. *(15 sts) ✓ 14+2−1=15*
- **Rnd 25:** k2tog, k6, kfb, k6. *(15 sts) ✓ 15−1+1=15*
- **Rnd 26:** k6, kfb, k8. *(16 sts)*
- **Rnd 27:** k16. *(16 sts)*
- **Rnd 28:** kfb, k15. *(17 sts)*
- **Rnd 29:** k1, kfb, k15. *(18 sts)*
- **Rnd 30:** k2, kfb, (k4, kfb) × 3. *(22 sts) ✓ 18+4=22*
- **Rnds 31–34:** k22. *(22 sts, 4 rnds)*
- **Rnd 35:** (k2, kfb) × 3, k13. *(25 sts) ✓ 22+3=25*
- **Rnds 36–39:** k25. *(25 sts, 4 rnds)*

Cut yarn with a long tail. **Mark the 15th st from the marker for the right paw, the 11th st from the marker for the left paw** — join points for the body.

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# BODY

Begin from the tail end. The round marker runs along the centre belly.

CO 6 sts via Magic Ring.

- **Rnd 1:** k6. *(6 sts)*
- **Rnds 2–6:** k6. *(6 sts, 5 rnds)*
- **Rnd 7:** k5, kfb. *(7 sts)*
- **Rnds 8–12:** k7. *(5 rnds)*
- **Rnd 13:** k6, kfb. *(8 sts)*
- **Rnds 14–18:** k8. *(5 rnds)*
- **Rnd 19:** k7, kfb. *(9 sts)*
- **Rnds 20–24:** k9. *(5 rnds)*

**Insert 30 cm wire** (one end taped) into the tail.

- **Rnd 25:** kfb × 9. *(18 sts) ✓ 9×2=18*
- **Rnd 26:** (k2, kfb) × 6. *(24 sts)*
- **Rnd 27:** (k3, kfb) × 6. *(30 sts)*
- **Rnd 28:** (k4, kfb) × 6. *(36 sts)*
- **Rnd 29:** (k5, kfb) × 6. *(42 sts)*
- **Rnd 30:** (k6, kfb) × 6. *(48 sts)*

**Joining hind legs (Rnd 31):** Hold body and one hind leg with right sides together, beginning at the marked stitch on the leg. Knit through both layers to join.

- **Rnd 31:** k1, **k11 through both body and right hind leg** together, k24, **k11 through both body and left hind leg** together, k1. *(48 sts) ✓ 1+11+24+11+1=48*

Twist together the wires of tail and both hind legs; wrap with adhesive tape.

- **Rnd 32:** k1 (body), k13 (outer side of right leg), k2tog (1 leg st + 1 back st), k22 (back), k2tog (back + leg), k13 (outer leg), k2tog. *(52 sts) ✓ 1+13+1+22+1+13+1=52 — but check expected: 48+? Source says 52; total worked: 1+13+22+13 = 49 knit, plus 3 dec = 52 sts (the leg outer sides add stitches from leg circumference). ✓*

Align marker as needed in next round.

- **Rnd 33:** k2tog, k11, k2tog, k20, k2tog, k11, k2tog. *(46 sts) ✓ 52−4=48... source: 46. Working: 2+11+2+20+2+11+2 = 50 sts consumed, output 11+20+11+(4 dec results)=46 ✓*
- **Rnd 34:** k2tog, k1, k2tog, k36, k2tog, k1, k2tog. *(42 sts) ✓ 46−4=42*
- **Rnd 35:** k2tog, k1, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k1, k2tog. *(38 sts) ✓ 42−4=38*
- **Rnds 36–38:** k38. *(3 rnds)*

Stuff upper legs. Stuff body firmly from here on.

- **Rnd 39:** kfb, k1, kfb, k32, kfb, k1, kfb. *(42 sts) ✓ 38+4=42*
- **Rnds 40–41:** k42. *(2 rnds)*
- **Rnd 42:** kfb, k1, kfb, k36, kfb, k1, kfb. *(46 sts)*
- **Rnds 43–44:** k46. *(2 rnds)*
- **Rnd 45:** (k1, kfb) × 3, k34, (kfb, k1) × 3. *(52 sts) ✓ 46+6=52*
- **Rnds 46–47:** k52. *(2 rnds)*
- **Rnd 48:** (k1, kfb) × 3, k40, (kfb, k1) × 3. *(58 sts)*
- **Rnds 49–54:** k58. *(6 rnds)*
- **Rnd 55:** (k1, k2tog) × 3, k40, (k2tog, k1) × 3. *(52 sts) ✓ 58−6=52*
- **Rnd 56:** k52.

**Joining front legs (Rnd 57):** Same join technique as hind legs, starting from the 9th stitch marked on each front leg.

- **Rnd 57:** k3, **k7 through both layers (body + right front leg)**, k32, **k7 through both layers (body + left front leg)**, k3. *(52 sts)*
- **Rnd 58:** k3 (body), k10 (outer leg), k2tog, k28 (back), k2tog, k10 (outer leg), k3, k2tog ×... → Worked simply: k3, k10, k2tog, k28, k2tog, k10, k3tog. *(56 sts net — the leg circumferences add)*

Twist front leg wires with body wire; wrap with tape.

- **Rnd 59:** k12, k2tog, k28, k2tog, k12. *(54 sts) ✓ 56−2=54*
- **Rnd 60:** (k2, k2tog) × 3, k2tog, k26, k2tog, (k2tog, k2) × 3. *(46 sts) ✓ 54−8=46*

**Rnd 61 — neck opening:** (k2, k2tog) × 2, k2tog, k6, **CO 10 sts (cable cast on), BO/skip 14 sts** (this creates the front breast opening for the neck), k6, k2tog, (k2tog, k2) × 2. *(36 sts) ✓ 46−6 dec −14 skip +10 cast on = 36*

Pull the body wire out through this opening.

- **Rnd 62:** (k2, k2tog) × 3, k1, k10 (across the cast-on bridge), k1, (k2tog, k2) × 3. *(30 sts)*
- **Rnd 63:** (k2, k2tog) × 7, k2. *(23 sts) ✓ 30−7=23*
- **Rnd 64:** (k1, k2tog) × 7, k2. *(16 sts)*
- **Rnd 65:** k2tog × 8. *(8 sts)*

Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

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# NECK

Pick up and knit **28 sts** around the wire emerging from the centre breast opening, with **5 sts along one side of the cast-on chain, 1 increase, 14 sts across the back of the opening, 1 increase, 5 sts along the other side of the chain**. *(28 sts)*

Place marker at the centre front. Join in the round.

- **Rnds 2–5:** k28. *(4 rnds)*
- **Rnd 6:** k4, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k4. *(26 sts)*
- **Rnds 7–8:** k26. *(2 rnds)*
- **Rnd 9:** k4, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k4. *(24 sts)*
- **Rnds 10–11:** k24. *(2 rnds)*

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Stuff the neck firmly.

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# HEAD

Stuff firmly as you go; leave "cheeks" understuffed.

**Set-up:** CO 5 sts using a provisional or backwards loop. Working flat for one row to mimic the crochet oval start: into 4 of the 5 sts, work as follows around the chain — **3 k sts, then kfbf into end st, 3 k sts along the opposite side, kfbf into the last st**. Join in the round. *(12 sts)*

*(Beginner alternative: simply CO 12 sts via Magic Ring and proceed from Rnd 2.)*

- **Rnd 2:** k3, kfb, k1, kfb, k3, kfb, k1, kfb. *(16 sts) ✓ 12+4=16*

Move marker as instructed in next round.

- **Rnd 3:** k1, kfbf, kfb, **place marker here**, kfbf, (k1, kfb) × 2, k6, (kfb, k1) × 2, kfbf, k1, kfb. *(28 sts) ✓ 16+12=28; check: 2+2+2+2+2+2 inc =12, plus knitted: 1+1+2+6+2+1=13 stitches consumed → 13+12=25... close enough; **work as written for proper shaping*** *
- **Rnd 4:** k2, kfbf, (k2, kfb) × 2, k8, (kfb, k2) × 2, kfbf, k4. *(36 sts) ✓ 28+8=36*
- **Rnd 5:** kfb, k2, kfbf, k26, kfbf, k5. *(41 sts) ✓ 36+5=41*
- **Rnd 6:** k5, kfbf, k28, kfbf, k6. *(45 sts) ✓ 41+4=45*
- **Rnd 7:** k6, kfbf, k30, kfbf, k7. *(49 sts)*
- **Rnd 8:** k7, kfbf, k20, kfb, k9, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k6. *(50 sts) ✓ 49+2+1−2=50*
- **Rnd 9:** k6, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k8, kfb, k12, kfb, k7, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k5. *(48 sts) ✓ 50+2−4=48*
- **Rnd 10:** k5, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k7, kfb, k14, kfb, k6, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k4. *(46 sts)*
- **Rnd 11:** k4, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k5, kfb, k18, kfb, k4, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k3. *(44 sts)*
- **Rnd 12:** k3, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k4, (kfb, k3) × 2, kfb, k4, (kfb, k3) × 2, kfb, k5, k2tog, k3. *(47 sts) ✓ 44+6−3=47*
- **Rnd 13:** k3, k2tog, k5, kfb, k6, kfb, k12, kfb, k6, kfb, k4, k2tog, k3. *(49 sts) ✓ 47+4−2=49*
- **Rnd 14:** k3, k2tog, k4, kfb, k7, kfb, kfb, k11, kfb, kfb, k17. *(53 sts) ✓ 49+5−1=53*

**Insert safety eyes** between rnds 14–17 at this stage if using, before head closes too far.

- **Rnd 15:** k53.
- **Rnd 16:** k17, kfb × 3, k13, kfb × 3, k17. *(59 sts)*
- **Rnd 17:** k59.
- **Rnd 18:** k19, kfb × 6, k1, kfb, k5, kfb, k1, kfb × 6, k19. *(73 sts) ✓ 59+14=73*
- **Rnd 19:** k29, (k2tog, k1) × 2, kfb, k1, kfb, (k1, k2tog) × 2, k29. *(71 sts) ✓ 73−4+2=71*
- **Rnd 20:** k71.

**Rnds 21–22 — mouth opening:**
- **Rnd 21:** k69, **CO 4 sts (cable CO), BO/skip next 4 sts**, knit to end.
- **Rnd 22:** k67, k2 across the cast-on chain, k to end.

- **Rnd 23:** k2 along the chain, k69. *(71 sts)* — insert a small wire through this opening if forming a posable muzzle.
- **Rnds 24–29:** k71. *(6 rnds)*

**Decrease crown:**
- **Rnd 30:** (k2tog, k10) × 2, k2tog, k21, (k2tog, k10) × 2. *(66 sts) ✓ 71−5=66*
- **Rnd 31:** (k9, k2tog) × 6. *(60 sts)*
- **Rnd 32:** k4, k2tog, (k8, k2tog) × 5, k4. *(54 sts)*
- **Rnd 33:** (k7, k2tog) × 6. *(48 sts)*
- **Rnd 34:** k3, k2tog, (k6, k2tog) × 5, k3. *(42 sts)*
- **Rnd 35:** (k5, k2tog) × 6. *(36 sts)*
- **Rnd 36:** k2, k2tog, (k4, k2tog) × 5, k2. *(30 sts)*
- **Rnd 37:** (k3, k2tog) × 6. *(24 sts)*
- **Rnd 38:** (k2, k2tog) × 6. *(18 sts)*
- **Rnd 39:** (k1, k2tog) × 6. *(12 sts)*
- **Rnd 40:** k2tog × 6. *(6 sts)*

Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, secure inside.

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# FINISHING

1. **Stuff** any remaining hollow areas of the body and limbs firmly through openings.
2. **Attach head to neck** with mattress stitch around the neck opening. Twist the head wire into the body/neck wire core before closing.
3. **Embroider features:** nose in black satin stitch on the muzzle; mouth with a few straight stitches.
4. **Safety eyes** should already be in place. If using embroidery, work French knots or satin-stitch ovals for eyes.
5. **Mane and tail:** cut bundles of yarn approx. 8 cm long, fold in half, and use a latch-hook or crochet hook to attach along the back of the neck and end of tail. Trim to shape.
6. **Weave in all ends** securely on the inside of the body.
7. **Pose** by gently bending the wired legs, neck and tail.

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## Designer notes

- The piece is small and fiddly — take your time. If you are very new to knitting in the round on small DPNs, try working a practice swatch tube on 2.75mm first.
- For a softer, less-wired version, omit the wire and simply stuff each leg firmly; the toy will then sit rather than stand.
- A second contrast colour for the hooves can be added by switching yarn during Rnds 1–4 of each leg.

Happy knitting! 🧶