Lavender Skies Cropped Tank Top

A fitted, seamless crochet tank with lavender & white stripes, a sweetheart neckline, gathered center front with adjustable tie bow, and thick supportive straps.

Skill Level: Easy Construction: Worked bottom-up, seamless in joined rounds to the underarm, then flat for front and back.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Sport weight (#2 Fine) — smooth cotton or cotton/acrylic blend recommended for stitch definition and gentle stretch.
  • Color A (Lavender): main stripe color
  • Color B (White): contrast stripe color
• Hook: US E-4 / 3.5 mm (main fabric); US D-3 / 3.25 mm (edging & straps for firmer fabric)
• Notions: Stitch markers (4+), tapestry needle, measuring tape, scissors
• Optional: Blocking mats and rustproof pins

Yarn Estimate (total yards; roughly 60% A / 40% B)

Buy one extra ball for insurance and blocking swatch.

GAUGE

22 sc × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) in single crochet, worked with US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, blocked. → This equals 5.5 sc per inch and 6 rows per inch.

Gauge is essential for fit. Make a 5" × 5" swatch, block it, then measure the center 4". If you have too many stitches per inch, go up a hook size; too few, go down.

SIZES

Designed with ~2" (5 cm) negative ease for a fitted look (sc has limited stretch — do not add more negative ease).

Math check: Finished bust × 5.5 sc/in = body sts. E.g., XS: 30 × 5.5 = 165 → rounded to 164 (even, so front = back = 82). ✓ Each size step = +4" = +22 sts, keeping all counts even and evenly split. ✓

Throughout the pattern, instructions are written for all sizes as: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Front sts = Back sts = Body sts ÷ 2: 82 (93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159, 170) Note: half-counts that are odd (S, L, XL, etc.) are handled at the split — see Body section.

For clean symmetry, we split into Front / Back halves using these even working counts (rounding the split to keep a center stitch available for the sweetheart):

Half sts used = 82 (92, 104, 114, 126, 136, 148, 158, 170)

ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

• ch — chain
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• sc — single crochet
• sc2tog — single crochet 2 together (decrease)
• sl st — slip stitch
• BLO — back loop only
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS / WS — right side / wrong side
• rep — repeat
• beg — beginning
• pm — place marker
• A — Lavender; B — White

PATTERN NOTES

• Turning chain: The ch-1 at the beginning of rows does NOT count as a stitch. Work your first sc into the same stitch/first stitch of the row.
• Joining rounds: Body is worked in joined rounds (join with sl st, ch 1, turn is NOT used — see below). To avoid a visible seam jog with stripes, we work in continuous joined rounds without turning, joining each round with a sl st to the first sc, then ch 1 and begin the next round in the same st. Keep the seam at the left side "seam" marker.
• Stripe sequence: 2 rounds A, 2 rounds B, repeated. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the seam; do not cut each stripe.
• Working into both loops unless otherwise stated.
• Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each round/row.
• Slightly stretchy fabric: sc is naturally firm; blocking opens up the fabric for a bit more give.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

• Invisible color change: On the last sc before a color change, work the stitch until 2 loops remain, then yarn over with the new color and complete the stitch.
• Gathered center front: After the sweetheart is complete, the center front point is cinched with a running stitch and secured, then the tie bow is threaded through eyelets.

INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1 — BODY (worked seamlessly in joined rounds)

Setup: With Color A and US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, ch the Body Sts count loosely; being careful not to twist, join with a sl st to form a ring. Chain count = Body Sts = 164 (186, 208, 230, 252, 274, 296, 318, 340).

Rnd 1 (A): ch 1, sc in same st and in each ch around; join with sl st to first sc. pm in the join st — this marks the LEFT SIDE SEAM. Count: 164 (186, 208, 230, 252, 274, 296, 318, 340) sc.

Rnd 2 (A): ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (same count)

Change to Color B in the final st of Rnd 2 (invisible change).

Rnds 3–4 (B): Repeat Rnd 2. (same count)

Continue in stripe pattern (2 rnds A, 2 rnds B) working even (no shaping) until piece measures 7" (7, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 8") from beginning, ending after a B stripe and a completed round.

Tip: For a subtly waist-fitted look (optional), you may work Rnds 5–10 with a US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook, then return to E-4. This is optional and does not change stitch counts.

At the end of Body, do not fasten off. Note your current color and continue the stripe sequence into the split.

PART 2 — SPLIT FOR FRONT & BACK (worked flat)

We now divide the work. Place a second marker (RIGHT SIDE SEAM) exactly halfway around from your left-seam marker.

To find center: from the left seam, count 82 (93, 104, 115, 126, 137, 148, 159, 170) sts and pm — this is the right seam.

For odd half-counts (S, L, XL, 2XL, 4XL), the extra stitch is placed at the back; use the Front working count below for the front and the remaining sts for the back.

Front working sts = 82 (92, 104, 114, 126, 136, 148, 158, 170) Back working sts = 82 (94, 104, 116, 126, 138, 148, 160, 170)

2A — BACK (worked flat)

Rejoin/continue in pattern at the left seam marker.

Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc across the Back sts only, ending at the right seam marker. Turn. Count: 82 (94, 104, 116, 126, 138, 148, 160, 170) sc.

Work even in sc, maintaining stripe pattern, for 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34, 34, 36) rows or until back measures 4.5 (4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6.5)" from split.

Back neck/strap setup (final row): The back has two straps rising from the outer edges and a plain center back.

Divide the back for straps:

• Strap width each = 14 sts.
• Center back plain = remaining sts.

Strap Row 1: ch 1, sc in first 14 sts; turn (leave remaining sts unworked). (14 sc) Work this first back strap even in stripe pattern for 20 rows (approx 3.3"), then fasten off leaving a 12" tail for seaming.

Second back strap: With RS facing, skip the center back sts, rejoin yarn in the next st, ch 1, sc in the last 14 sts. (14 sc) Work 20 rows as the first strap. Fasten off with a 12" tail.

The center back sts between the straps are left as the finished back neckline; edge them in Finishing.

2B — FRONT with SWEETHEART NECKLINE (worked flat)

With RS facing, rejoin working color at the right seam marker (continuing stripe sequence to match the back).

Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc across the Front sts. Turn. Count: 82 (92, 104, 114, 126, 136, 148, 158, 170) sc.

Work even in sc/stripes for 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) rows, until front matches back to the base of the underarm/bust.

Shape the sweetheart neckline: The sweetheart has two curved cups meeting at a gathered center point. We split the front in half and shape each side with center-edge decreases (forming the "V dip") while the outer edges rise straight up to become the shoulder straps.

Divide front in half: Front half = 41 (46, 52, 57, 63, 68, 74, 79, 85) sts on each side. (For odd front halves — none here since all front counts are even — this note is not needed.)

Wait — front counts are even, so each side = Front sts ÷ 2: 41 (46, 52, 57, 63, 68, 74, 79, 85). Where this is odd (XS 41, L 57, XL 63, 2XL 68… check parity), place the extra stitch toward the outer edge. Both sides are worked identically and mirrored.

RIGHT CUP (as worn):

Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc across the first half sts. Turn. Count: 41 (46, 52, 57, 63, 68, 74, 79, 85) sc.

Decrease Row (center edge): ch 1, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (−1 st; the center-edge sc2tog creates the sweetheart dip.)

Repeat the Decrease Row every row until 14 sts remain (this shapes the curved cup and forms the strap base): Number of decrease rows = half sts − 14 = 27 (32, 38, 43, 49, 54, 60, 65, 71) rows.

Tip: If your bust is longer, work 1–2 plain rows between the first few decreases for a smoother curve; this is optional and personal to fit.

Once 14 sts remain, work the RIGHT SHOULDER STRAP even in stripe pattern for 28 rows (approx 4.7"). Fasten off, leaving a 14" tail for joining to the back strap. (14 sc)

LEFT CUP (mirror):

With RS facing, rejoin working color to the second half of the front (at the center edge).

Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc across the second half sts. Turn. Count: 41 (46, 52, 57, 63, 68, 74, 79, 85) sc.

Decrease Row (center edge): ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to end. Turn. (−1 st; decrease is at the beginning to mirror the right cup.)

Repeat until 14 sts remain — same 27 (32, 38, 43, 49, 54, 60, 65, 71) decrease rows.

Work the LEFT SHOULDER STRAP even for 28 rows. Fasten off with a 14" tail. (14 sc)

Math check (front cup): starting half = 41; minus 27 decrease rows = 14 sts remaining. ✓ (Same logic scales for each size: half − rows = 14.)

PART 3 — GATHERED CENTER FRONT

The two cups meet at the center. To create the gathered sweetheart look:

1. With a length of Color A and tapestry needle, work a running/whip stitch up the two center cup edges, from the lowest dip point upward for about 2" (5 cm), drawing the center front snug so the fabric gently gathers/ruches. Secure firmly.
2. This closes the sweetheart into its heart shape and creates the ruched center. Weave in ends.

PART 4 — EYELETS FOR THE TIE

Along the top center of the gathered section, we add eyelets to thread the adjustable tie bow.

With RS facing and Color A, at the top of the gathered center front, work 4 evenly spaced eyelets as follows across the ruched top edge: Row: ch 1, sc 2, ch 2, skip 2; rep from * 3 more times; sc to end. Fasten off. Each ch-2 space = one eyelet for the tie. (4 eyelets)

PART 5 — SHOULDER STRAPS (join)

You have 4 straps: two front (from the cups) and two back.

1. Lay the tank flat, RS together at the shoulders.
2. Whip stitch or sl st each front strap to the corresponding back strap, matching the 14-st width. Use the long tails left earlier.
3. Try on if possible before securing — straps can be shortened by unraveling rows or lengthened by adding rows before joining.

Strap width = 14 sts ≈ 2.5" (thick, supportive). ✓

PART 6 — THE ADJUSTABLE TIE BOW

With Color A (or B for contrast) and US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook:

Tie cord: Make a slip knot, then ch 120 (about 22"). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (119 sc) Fasten off; weave in ends.

Alternatively, make a chainless foundation or a simple crochet i-cord for a rounder tie.

To use: Thread the tie through the 4 front eyelets (over-under-over-under), center it, and tie a bow at the center front. Adjust snugness by pulling the tie — this cinches/gathers the center front for an adjustable fit.

FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends on the WS with the tapestry needle.
2. Neckline & armhole edging: With US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook and Color A, work 1 round of sc evenly around each armhole and around the entire neckline (back neck, straps, and sweetheart cups) for a clean, firm finished edge. Work sc2tog at any inner corners to keep edges flat; join with sl st, fasten off.
   • Tip: aim for roughly 3 sc for every 4 rows along vertical edges and 1 sc per st along horizontal edges to prevent flaring or puckering.
3. Bottom edge: Optional — work 1 round of sc in BLO around the bottom for a subtle finished ridge and extra stretch.

BLOCKING

1. Soak the finished tank in cool water with a little wool wash for 15 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze (do not wring) and roll in a towel to remove excess water.
3. Lay flat on blocking mats. Pin to the Finished Bust measurement for your size and shape the sweetheart neckline into a smooth heart curve.
4. Let dry completely. Blocking evens out the stripes and gives the sc fabric its final, slightly stretchier drape.

QUICK REFERENCE — KEY NUMBERS

Final validation: Body sts = Finished Bust × 5.5 (rounded even). Front cup: half − decrease rows = 14 strap sts for every size. ✓ Front + Back = Body sts for every size. ✓

Enjoy your Lavender Skies Cropped Tank! Tag your finished makes and remember: blocking is what turns good crochet into great crochet.