Little Breeze Baby Tee

A seamless top-down raglan summer pullover

Size: 12–18 months
Skill level: Beginner

A soft, short-sleeve cotton tee worked in one piece from the neck down. Yarn-over raglan lines add a light summer detail without any complicated stitches. A 2½" (6.5 cm) back button placket makes dressing easy — no tugging over baby’s head. There are no side or shoulder seams to irritate little skin.

Finished measurements

To fit chest: 21" (53.5 cm)
Finished chest: 23¼" (59 cm) — about 2¼" (5.5 cm) positive ease
Yoke depth (cast-on to underarm): 5¼" (13.5 cm)
Body length from underarm: 7½" (19 cm)
Total length: 12¾" (32.5 cm)
Short sleeve length from underarm: 2" (5 cm)
Neck circumference at cast-on: 12" (30.5 cm), worn with a buttoned back opening

Measurements are after gentle wet blocking. Cotton relaxes; check length on the baby before binding off the hem if you can.

Yarn

Sport-weight cotton (or a soft cotton blend), machine washable.

Yardage: 300 yards / 275 meters (about 100–120 g)

Suggested yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine (100% Pima cotton; 273 yards / 250 m per 100 g) — 2 skeins, or any sport-weight cotton that matches gauge.

Parents need easy care: choose a yarn labeled machine washable. Softness matters more than fiber brand — if it feels scratchy on your inner wrist, it will bother a baby.

Needles

• US 4 / 3.5 mm circular needle, 16" (40 cm), for neck, yoke, and body
• US 4 / 3.5 mm double-pointed needles (or a long circular for magic loop) for sleeves

A 24" (60 cm) circular in the same size is optional for the body if you prefer more cable room.

Notions

• 8 stitch markers (one in a unique color for beginning of round)
• Waste yarn or 2 stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• 3 buttons, ½" (12 mm) diameter
• Sewing needle and thread to match yarn

Gauge

24 stitches and 32 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, blocked, on US 4 / 3.5 mm needles.

Take time over the swatch. Cotton does not bounce back the way wool does, and a small gauge miss changes the chest size quickly (6 stitches = 1").

Abbreviations (US)

BO — bind off
BOR — beginning of round
CO — cast on
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
p — purl
pm — place marker
rep — repeat
rnd(s) — round(s)
RS — right side
sm — slip marker
st(s) — stitch(es)
St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows / every round; purl WS rows)
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over

Pattern notes

• The tee is worked flat from the neck down through the back placket, then joined and worked in the round.
• Four single knit stitches are the raglan “seams.” Yarn overs on each side of those stitches add 8 stitches every other row/round and leave a pretty eyelet line.
• The first and last 5 stitches of every flat row are worked in garter stitch (knit every row). These are the button bands.
• Buttonholes sit on the Right Back band (beginning of RS rows). Buttons are sewn to the Left Back band.
• Safety: Sew buttons on very firmly and check them often. A loose button is a choking hazard. Do not use this garment on a baby who puts clothing in their mouth unsupervised.
• Length is easy to change: work the body until it is 1½" (4 cm) shorter than you want, then start the hem ribbing. The same idea applies to the sleeves.

Neckband and back placket

With US 4 / 3.5 mm circular needle, long-tail CO 72 sts. Do not join. Work back and forth.

Row 1 (RS): K5 (garter band), *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5 (garter band).

Row 2 (WS): K5, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.

Row 3 (RS, buttonhole): K1, k2tog, yo, k2, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5.
(72 sts still; the yo replaces the decreased stitch ✓)

Rows 4–6: Repeat Rows 2 and 1, then Row 2 once more.

Neckband measures about ¾" (2 cm). Placket bands continue in garter for the rest of the flat section.

Yoke (flat, with placket)

Keep the 5-st garter bands at each edge. All other stitches are now stockinette, with raglan increases on RS rows.

Set-up row (RS) — first increase row:
K5, k7, yo, pm, k1 (raglan), yo,
pm, k10, yo, pm, k1 (raglan), yo,
pm, k24, yo, pm, k1 (raglan), yo,
pm, k10, yo, pm, k1 (raglan), yo,
k7, k5.

(8 yarn overs → 72 + 8 = 80 sts ✓)

You now have 4 raglan stitches, each sitting between a pair of markers, and 8 extra stitches.

Next row (WS): K5, purl to last 5 sts (purl each yo as a normal purl stitch), k5.

Raglan increase row (RS): Knit to the first marker, *yo, sm, k1, yo, knit to next marker; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end.
(8 sts increased ✓)

WS row: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.

Work the last 2 rows 5 more times (6 increase rows total after the set-up row, counting the set-up as increase 1).

At the same time, work 2 more buttonholes on RS rows as follows:

• Buttonhole 2: On the next RS row that is also an increase row after the neckband (about 1" / 2.5 cm from the first buttonhole): K1, k2tog, yo, k2, then work the rest of the increase row as written.
• Buttonhole 3: On the RS increase row just before you join in the round: K1, k2tog, yo, k2, then work the rest of the increase row as written.

After 7 increase rows have been completed (set-up + 6), you will have worked 14 stockinette rows plus the 6 neckband rows = 20 rows total from the cast-on, and the piece measures about 2½" (6.5 cm).

Stitch count after 7 increase rows:
72 + (7 × 8) = 128 sts ✓

Distribution: Right Back 19, raglan 1, Right Sleeve 24, raglan 1, Front 38, raglan 1, Left Sleeve 24, raglan 1, Left Back 19.

Join to work in the round

Joining row (RS / now a round): Work one more raglan increase row as established (this is increase 8), then join, being careful not to twist, so the two garter bands meet at center back. Place a unique BOR marker between the Left Back and Right Back bands.

The 2½" (6.5 cm) slit at the back neck stays open; from here down the tee is a tube. Switch the 5-st bands to stockinette (knit every round).

Next rnd: Knit all sts, slipping markers.

Continue in this rhythm:

• Increase rnd: *Knit to marker, yo, sm, k1, yo; rep from * 4 times, knit to BOR. (8 sts increased ✓)
• Even rnd: Knit.

Work these 2 rounds until you have completed 18 increase rows/rounds in total (7 worked flat + 11 in the round = 18 ✓), then work the following even round.

Yoke total: 216 sts
(72 + 18 × 8 = 216 ✓)

Distribution at 216 sts:
Right Back 30, raglan 1, Right Sleeve 46, raglan 1, Front 60, raglan 1, Left Sleeve 46, raglan 1, Left Back 30.
(30+1+46+1+60+1+46+1+30 = 216 ✓)

The yoke should measure 5¼" (13.5 cm) from the cast-on edge. If you are a little short, knit even (no increases) to that length. If you are already there, divide now.

Divide body and sleeves

Dividing round:
Knit 30 Right Back sts, k1 (raglan) — 31 sts for right back,
place next 46 Right Sleeve sts on waste yarn, removing sleeve markers,
CO 8 sts for underarm,
k1 (raglan), knit 60 Front sts, k1 (raglan) — 62 sts for front,
place next 46 Left Sleeve sts on waste yarn,
CO 8 sts for underarm,
k1 (raglan), knit 30 Left Back sts — 31 sts for left back.

Body: 140 sts ✓
(31 + 8 + 62 + 8 + 31 = 140 ✓)
(140 sts ÷ 6 sts per inch = 23¼" chest ✓)

Place a marker at the center of each underarm if you like; they are optional from here. BOR remains at center back.

Body

Work even in stockinette (knit every round) until the body measures 6" (15 cm) from the underarm, or until it is 1½" (4 cm) shorter than the length you want.

Hem
Next rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
(140 is even, so 1×1 rib fits evenly ✓)

Repeat this round until the ribbing measures 1½" (4 cm).

BO loosely in rib. If the bind-off feels tight, go up one needle size for the bind-off row only — a tight hem will not stretch over a diaper.

Total length from cast-on: about 12¾" (32.5 cm).

Short sleeves

Work both sleeves the same way.

Place the 46 held sleeve sts onto US 4 / 3.5 mm DPNs (or a long circular for magic loop). Beginning at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 8 sts along the underarm cast-on, then knit the 46 sleeve sts. Pm for BOR at the center of the underarm.

54 sts ✓ (46 + 8 = 54 ✓)

Knit 6 rounds even.

Decrease round: *K7, k2tog; rep from * around.
(6 decreases → 54 − 6 = 48 sts ✓)

Cuff: *K1, p1; rep from * around for 8 rounds (about 1" / 2.5 cm).
(48 is even, so 1×1 rib fits evenly ✓)

BO loosely in rib.

Sleeve measures about 2" (5 cm) from the underarm. For a slightly longer cap sleeve, add extra knit rounds before the decrease round.

Finishing

Weave in all ends on the wrong side, splitting the plies of the cotton so ends stay put (cotton is slippery).

Buttons: On the Left Back garter band, sew 3 buttons opposite the 3 buttonholes. Use sewing thread, take several firm stitches through each button, and knot securely on the wrong side. Tug each button. If it wiggles, sew it again.

Block: Soak the tee in cool water with a little wool wash or mild soap for 15–20 minutes. Press out water in a towel (do not wring). Lay flat, pat to the finished measurements, and let dry completely. Cotton grows when wet — do not stretch the chest wider than 23¼" (59 cm).

Care: Machine wash cold, gentle cycle; tumble dry low or, better, lay flat to dry so the cotton keeps its shape. Recheck buttons after every wash.

Beginner tips

• Yarn overs: Bring the yarn to the front between the needles, then over the right needle to the back. On the next row or round, work that extra loop as a normal stitch. The hole is the decorative raglan line.
• Markers: Slip them from the left needle to the right needle as you meet them; do not knit them.
• Joining in the round: Make sure the RS (smooth knit side) faces you and the fabric is not twisted around the needle. The garter bands should sit next to each other at the back.
• If a stitch count is off by 8, you likely missed one raglan line on an increase row. Count the stitches between markers after the next increase row to catch it early.

Enjoy your Little Breeze Tee — light, washable, and kind to baby skin.