purlJam

# Lucia Crossbody Bag

**Skill Level:** Intermediate

**Finished Measurements:**
*   **Base:** 10 inches (25.5 cm) long x 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide
*   **Bag Body:** 10 inches (25.5 cm) wide x 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall (excluding strap)
*   **Strap:** 1.5 inches (4 cm) wide x 50 inches (127 cm) long

**Materials:**
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Category 4) cotton yarn.
    *   Main Color (MC): approx. 600 yards (548 m)
    *   Contrast Color 1 (CC1): approx. 75 yards (68 m)
    *   *Sample shown in: MC: Natural, CC1: Dusty Rose*
*   **Hook:** US H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook
*   **Notions:** Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers, optional: fabric for lining, magnetic snap closure.

**Gauge:**
16 sc and 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet with US H/8 (5 mm) hook.
*Be sure to check your gauge. A different gauge will result in a different size bag and may require more or less yarn.*

**Abbreviations (US Terms):**
*   **ch** = chain
*   **sl st** = slip stitch
*   **sc** = single crochet
*   **hdc** = half double crochet
*   **dc** = double crochet
*   **sp** = space
*   **sk** = skip
*   **st(s)** = stitch(es)
*   **MC** = Main Color
*   **CC1** = Contrast Color 1
*   **rep** = repeat
*   **BLO** = back loop only
*   **beg** = beginning
*   **()** = work instructions within parentheses as many times as specified
*   **[]** = total stitch count for the round

**Special Stitches:**
*   **V-Stitch (V-st):** (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in indicated stitch or space.

**Pattern Notes:**
*   The bag is worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up, without joining and turning, unless otherwise specified for specific sections (e.g., colorwork). Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up.
*   The lace section provides the "mesh pattern for stretch" aspect of the market bag template, while the colorwork section adds visual interest.
*   For the colorwork section, instructions will be provided for tapestry crochet, where unused colors are carried along the top of the stitches and crocheted over.
*   When changing colors, complete the last yarn over of the previous stitch with the new color.
*   Read Chart A from right to left for all rounds/rows (RS).
*   Always check your stitch count at the end of each round to ensure accuracy.

---

## **CHARTS SECTION**

### **Chart A: Geometric Motif (10 sts × 10 rows)**
This chart is designed for tapestry crochet using single crochet stitches. Each square represents one single crochet stitch.
```
10: □□□□■■□□□□
9:  □□□■■■■□□□
8:  □□■■□□■■□□
7:  □■■□□□□■■□
6:  ■■□□□□□□■■
5:  □■■□□□□■■□
4:  □□■■□□■■□□
3:  □□□■■■■□□□
2:  □□□□■■□□□□
1:  □□□□□□□□□□
```
**Key:**
*   □ = MC (Main Color)
*   ■ = CC1 (Contrast Color 1)

### **Chart Instructions:**
1.  **How to Read:** This chart is read from bottom to top, representing the rounds/rows of your crochet fabric. Since this pattern is worked in continuous rounds for colorwork (tapestry crochet), read all rounds of the chart from right to left.
2.  **Where Chart Appears:** Chart A is used for the "Upper Body - Colorwork Section" of the bag, starting after the "Mid Body - Lace Section".
3.  **Stitch Counts for Chart Repeat:** Each repeat of Chart A is 10 stitches wide and 10 rows tall. When working the Chart A section, you will repeat this 10-stitch pattern around the entire circumference of the bag. The total stitch count for the body (80 stitches) is a multiple of the chart repeat (80 / 10 = 8 repeats per round).

---

## **Color Management**

*   **Colors Needed:**
    *   Main Color (MC): approx. 600 yards (548 m)
    *   Contrast Color 1 (CC1): approx. 75 yards (68 m)
*   **Stranding/Float Management (for Chart A):**
    *   When working with two colors in tapestry crochet (sc stitches), carry the unused color loosely along the top of the previous round's stitches, enclosing it with the working color's stitches.
    *   Ensure your floats are not too tight, which can pucker the fabric, or too loose, which can show through. Maintain even tension.
    *   Change colors on the last yarn over of the stitch before the color change is indicated on the chart.
    *   For short runs (2-3 stitches of one color), simply carry the unused color. For longer runs of a single color, it may be better to drop the unused color and pick up a new strand when needed, or twist the yarns every few stitches to prevent long floats on the inside of the bag. For this pattern, carrying the yarn is recommended.
*   **Blocking Notes Specific to Colorwork:**
    *   Once the bag is complete, gently wash the item.
    *   Lay the item flat on a blocking mat or towel, shaping it to its finished dimensions.
    *   Pay special attention to the colorwork section. Pin it out evenly to help the stitches relax and align, which will make the colorwork pattern stand out clearly and ensure even tension.
    *   Allow to air dry completely. Blocking is especially important for cotton to set the stitches and give the bag a crisp, professional finish.

---

## **PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS**

### **Base (worked in MC)**
**Round 1:** Ch 29. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 26 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the opposite side of the chain, sc in next 26 ch, 2 sc in last ch. [58 sts]
*   *(26 sc + 3 sc + 26 sc + 2 sc = 57 sc. The first sc in 2nd ch counts as a st, so 58 total)*
**Round 2:** (Sc in next 26 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts) 2 times. [64 sts]
*   *(26 + 2*3 = 32 sts per side, 32*2 = 64 sts total)*
**Round 3:** (Sc in next 26 sts, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times) 2 times. [70 sts]
*   *(26 + (1+2)*3 = 26 + 9 = 35 sts per side, 35*2 = 70 sts total)*
**Round 4:** (Sc in next 26 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times) 2 times. [76 sts]
*   *(26 + (2+2)*3 = 26 + 12 = 38 sts per side, 38*2 = 76 sts total)*
**Round 5:** (Sc in next 26 sts, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times) 2 times. [82 sts]
*   *(26 + (3+2)*3 = 26 + 15 = 41 sts per side, 41*2 = 82 sts total)*
**Round 6:** (Sc in next 26 sts, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times) 2 times. [88 sts]
*   *(26 + (4+2)*3 = 26 + 18 = 44 sts per side, 44*2 = 88 sts total)*
**Round 7:** Sc in BLO of each st around. [88 sts]
*   *(Working in BLO creates a crisp edge for the base.)*

### **Lower Body (worked in MC)**
**Rounds 8-10:** Sc in each st around. [88 sts] (3 rounds)

### **Mid Body - Lace Section (worked in MC)**
*This section provides the "mandala lace motifs" and "mesh pattern for stretch".*
**Round 11:** Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), dc in next st, *sk 2 sts, V-st (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st*; rep from * around until 3 sts remain, sk 2 sts, dc in last st, sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join. [28 V-sts, 4 dc = 56 dc + 28 ch-1 sps = 84 sts, but for ease, count as 28 V-sts and 4 dc]
*   *(88 sts / 3 = 29.33 repeats for (sk 2, V-st in next), this pattern needs 88 to be divisible by 4, not 3. My lace design needs to fit 88 stitches perfectly. Let's re-evaluate the stitch count.*
*   *(88 sts total. Each V-st takes 3 sts: sk 2, V-st in 1. If I do V-st in *every* 3rd st, that's 88/3 = 29 V-sts + 1 st leftover. This won't work.)*
*   *(Let's modify the V-stitch pattern to fit 88 stitches directly: V-st into a st, sk a st, V-st into a st, sk a st. Or make it simpler: V-st in 1 st, sk 3 sts. 88/4 = 22. This works!)*

**Revised Lace Section (worked in MC):**
**Round 11:** Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in same st (counts as first V-st). *Sk 3 sts, V-st (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st*; rep from * around. You will have 3 sts remaining. Sk 3 sts, sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join. [22 V-sts]
*   *(22 V-sts * 4 sts per repeat (V-st + sk 3) = 88 sts. This perfectly matches.)*
**Round 12:** Sl st into ch-1 sp of first V-st. Ch 3, dc in same ch-1 sp (counts as first V-st). *V-st in ch-1 sp of next V-st*; rep from * around. Sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join. [22 V-sts]
**Rounds 13-20:** Rep Round 12. [22 V-sts] (8 rounds)
*   *(Total of 10 rounds for the Lace Section. 10 rounds * 4 stitches per V-st pattern = 40 stitches height, which is 10 inches height, too much for lace. 18 rows = 4 inches. 10 rounds is ~2.2 inches. I need 4-5 inches. So I need more rounds).*

**Revised Lace Section Rounds:**
**Rounds 11-28:** Rep Round 12. [22 V-sts] (18 rounds)
*   *(18 rounds for the lace section, which is ~4 inches (10 cm) tall. This sounds good.)*

### **Upper Body - Colorwork Section (worked in sc, following Chart A)**
*This section uses tapestry crochet for the "colorwork/fair isle" motif.*
*   **Important:** Before starting, cut MC and CC1 yarn tails long enough to be woven in, or if you prefer to carry the unused yarn throughout the section, ensure you have multiple strands (e.g., 2 balls of MC, 1-2 balls of CC1) to avoid excessively long floats inside the bag. Twist yarns on color changes to lock them in.
**Round 29:** Change to MC. Sc in each st around, working 2 sc into each ch-1 sp of the V-sts from the previous round and 1 sc into each dc post. [88 sts]
*   *(Each V-st consists of (dc, ch 1, dc). So, (1 dc st + 1 ch-1 sp + 1 dc st) from V-st + (the dc from the next V-st).
    No, this is incorrect. The V-sts are (dc, ch1, dc) in *one* stitch or space. If I'm crocheting into the previous V-st rounds (22 V-sts), and each V-st is a (dc, ch1, dc), the previous round (Round 28) effectively has 22 * 2 dc sts + 22 * 1 ch-1 sps = 66 yarn overs. This is not 88.
    Let's convert from the V-stitch count back to a multiple of 88 single crochet stitches.)*

**Correction for transitioning from V-sts to sc for colorwork:**
The last round of V-stitches (Round 28) has 22 V-sts. Each V-st is (dc, ch 1, dc).
To get back to 88 sc:
In each V-st, work: 1 sc in first dc, 2 sc in ch-1 sp, 1 sc in second dc. This makes 4 sc per V-st.
So, 22 V-sts * 4 sc/V-st = 88 sc. This works.

**Revised Transition:**
**Round 29 (MC):** Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in first dc of first V-st, 2 sc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, sc in second dc of same V-st. *Sc in first dc of next V-st, 2 sc in ch-1 sp of same V-st, sc in second dc of same V-st*; rep from * around. Sl st to first sc to join. [88 sc]
*   *(This creates a solid base of 88 sc for the colorwork.)*

**Rounds 30-39:** Using MC and CC1, work in sc around, following Chart A for color changes. You will work 8 repeats of the 10-stitch chart pattern around each round (8 repeats * 10 sts = 80 sts).
*   *(Wait, my bag circumference is 88 stitches. Chart A is 10 stitches wide. 88 is not a multiple of 10. This is a critical error. 88/10 = 8.8. I need to adjust either the bag's stitch count or the chart repeat width.)*
*   *(The base has 88 stitches. I will continue with 88 stitches. I need a chart that is a factor of 88. Factors of 88 are 1, 2, 4, 8, 11, 22, 44, 88. A 10-stitch repeat won't work. Let's make the chart repeat 11 stitches wide instead.)*

**Revised Chart A: Geometric Motif (11 sts × 10 rows)**
This will fit 8 times around the 88-stitch circumference (8 * 11 = 88).
Key: □ = MC, ■ = CC1

```
10: □□□□■■■□□□□
9:  □□□■■□■■□□□
8:  □□■■□□□■■□□
7:  □■■□□□□□■■□
6:  ■■□□□□□□□■■
5:  □■■□□□□□■■□
4:  □□■■□□□■■□□
3:  □□□■■□■■□□□
2:  □□□□■■■□□□□
1:  □□□□□■□□□□□
```
*This revised chart ensures perfect alignment with the bag's stitch count.*

**Revised Upper Body - Colorwork Section:**
**Rounds 30-39 (10 rounds):** Work in sc around, following Chart A for color changes. You will work 8 repeats of the 11-stitch chart pattern around each round. Carry unused yarn color as you work. Each round will have 88 sc.
*   *(10 rounds for colorwork section. 18 rows = 4 inches, so 10 rounds is ~2.2 inches. This gives enough height for the motif.)*

### **Top Border (worked in MC)**
**Round 40:** Change to MC. Sc in each st around. [88 sts]
**Round 41:** Hdc in each st around. [88 sts]
**Round 42:** Sc in each st around. [88 sts]
**Round 43:** Hdc in each st around. [88 sts]
**Round 44:** Sc in each st around. [88 sts]
*   *(These 5 rounds of mixed sc/hdc create a firm, structured top border.)*
Sl st to first sc of Round 44 to join. Fasten off MC, weave in ends.

### **Crossbody Strap (worked in MC)**
**Row 1:** Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [6 sc]
**Rows 2-225:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. [6 sc]
*   *(225 rows * (4 inches / 18 rows) = 50 inches length. This calculation is consistent with the gauge.)*
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

### **Finishing**
1.  **Attach Strap:** Position the strap evenly on the sides of the bag's opening. Using the long tails and a yarn needle, securely sew the strap ends to the inside of the bag's top border. Reinforce stitching for durability.
2.  **Weave in Ends:** Weave in any remaining loose yarn tails neatly.
3.  **Blocking:** Gently block the bag according to the "Color Management" instructions. This will help define the stitches, even out the tension in the colorwork and lace sections, and give the bag a professional finish.
4.  **Optional Lining:** For added structure, durability, and to prevent small items from falling through the lace, consider sewing a fabric lining. An optional magnetic snap closure can be added to the lining or the top border for security.

Your Lucia Crossbody Bag is complete!