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# Men's Beginner Raglan Pullover (Mid-Gauge Machine)

## Description
This pattern is designed for the beginner machine knitter eager to create a classic men's raglan sweater from the bottom up. Using worsted weight yarn on a Mid-Gauge machine, it features simple stockinette stitch with mock ribbing for the hems, cuffs, and neckband. The raglan shaping is straightforward, making it an ideal project to learn essential machine knitting techniques like increases, decreases, and basic shaping.

## Materials
*   **Yarn:** Worsted Weight (Category 4) yarn. Approximately:
    *   Size M: 1200 - 1300 yards (1100 - 1200 meters)
    *   Size L: 1350 - 1450 yards (1230 - 1330 meters)
    *   Size XL: 1500 - 1600 yards (1370 - 1460 meters)
*   **Knitting Machine:** Mid-Gauge (6.5mm) knitting machine (e.g., LK-150, SK-860).
*   **Tools:**
    *   Waste yarn
    *   Ravel cord
    *   Weights (claw weights, cast-on comb with weights)
    *   Latch tool
    *   2-prong or 3-prong transfer tool
    *   Tapestry needle for seaming
    *   Row Counter (RC)
    *   Scissors
    *   Measuring tape
    *   Blocking mats and pins (optional, but recommended for finishing)

## Tension / Gauge Settings
*   **Main Fabric (Stockinette):** Tension Dial **T8**
    *   Resulting Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
    *   *To check your gauge:* Cast on 30 stitches, knit 36 rows in Stockinette using T8. Remove from machine on waste yarn. Measure a 4-inch (10 cm) square in the center of the swatch. Adjust tension up (looser) or down (tighter) until you achieve the desired gauge.
*   **Mock Ribbing:** Tension Dial **T6 - T7** (Use a tension one or two numbers tighter than your main fabric tension for a firmer rib).

## Sizes
*   **M** (Medium)
*   **L** (Large)
*   **XL** (Extra Large)

| Measurement        | M                           | L                           | XL                          |
| :----------------- | :-------------------------- | :-------------------------- | :-------------------------- |
| **Chest**          | 40 in (102 cm)              | 44 in (112 cm)              | 48 in (122 cm)              |
| **Length (Shoulder to Hem)** | 26 in (66 cm)               | 27 in (68.5 cm)             | 28 in (71 cm)               |
| **Sleeve Length (Underarm to Cuff)** | 18 in (45.5 cm)             | 19 in (48 cm)               | 20 in (51 cm)               |
| **Bicep Circumference** | 14 in (35.5 cm)             | 16 in (40.5 cm)             | 18 in (45.5 cm)             |

## Abbreviations & Machine-Specific Terms
*   **RC:** Row Counter
*   **sts:** Stitches
*   **CO:** Cast On
*   **BO:** Bind Off
*   **inc:** Increase
*   **dec:** Decrease
*   **COL:** Carriage on Left
*   **COR:** Carriage on Right
*   **EON:** Every Other Needle
*   **HN:** Holding Position (Needles pushed fully forward)
*   **WFN:** Work From Needle (Needles pulled to working position)
*   **PWP:** Pre-Working Position (Needles pulled halfway forward)
*   **WY:** Waste Yarn
*   **Ravel Cord:** A contrasting, smooth yarn used to separate waste yarn from knitting, allowing for easy removal.
*   **Transfer:** Moving a stitch from one needle to another using a transfer tool.

## Pattern Notes
*   This pattern is written for a Mid-Gauge (6.5mm) knitting machine.
*   All pieces are knit flat.
*   The raglan shaping has a depth of 9 inches (23 cm) or 54 rows for all pieces.
*   "Decrease 1 st at each end" refers to transferring the second stitch in from each edge onto the adjacent stitch, then returning the empty needle to WFN to ensure it knits on the next pass.
*   "Increase 1 st at each end" refers to increasing into the stitch from the row below the edge stitch, or by E-wrapping the empty needle, and then knitting across. For this pattern, use the method of increasing into the stitch from the row below, placing it on the empty adjacent needle.
*   Always hang appropriate weights to maintain proper tension.
*   Refer to your machine's manual for specific settings if unsure.

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## Step-by-Step Instructions

### Getting Started (All Pieces)
1.  **Machine Setup:** Set machine to Stockinette (knit) setting. Carriage on the right (COR). Main yarn tension set to **T8**.
2.  **Cast On:**
    *   Select the required number of needles (see specific instructions for each piece below). Ensure an even number of needles for mock rib.
    *   Cast on using waste yarn (WY) and a ravel cord.
    *   Knit 10-15 rows of WY.
    *   Thread ravel cord through the gate pegs and knit 1 row (COL).
    *   Switch to main yarn.

### Back Panel

| Size       | M   | L    | XL   |
| :--------- | :-- | :--- | :--- |
| **Cast On Stitches** | 90  | 100  | 110  |
| **Raglan Decreases (each side)** | 27  | 27   | 27   |
| **Back Neck Stitches (final)** | 36  | 46   | 56   |

1.  **Set up:** Set machine to main yarn **T6-7**. Carriage on Right (COR).
2.  **Hem (Mock Rib):**
    *   **CO:** Select **90 (M), 100 (L), 110 (XL)** needles. Using WY, CO and knit 10-15 rows. Add ravel cord (RC 0).
    *   Switch to main yarn. Knit 1 row (COL).
    *   **RC 1:** Rehang the Cast-On row stitches onto the active needles to create a mock rib hem.
    *   Knit 11 rows (RC 12).
    *   *Carriage to COR.* Change tension to **T8**.
3.  **Body (Stockinette):**
    *   Knit straight in Stockinette stitch until piece measures approximately **17 inches (43 cm)** from hem, ending with carriage on the left (COL).
    *   **RC: 102 (M/L/XL).**
    *   *Mathematical Validation: 17 inches * 6 rows/inch = 102 rows. (12 rows hem + 90 rows body).*
4.  **Raglan Armhole Shaping:**
    *   **RC 102 (COL):** Begin raglan shaping.
    *   **Dec 1 st at each end every 2nd row for 27 times.**
        *   To decrease: With carriage on the left, use a transfer tool to transfer the 2nd stitch from the right edge onto the 1st stitch. Return empty needle to WFN. Transfer the 2nd stitch from the left edge onto the 1st stitch. Return empty needle to WFN.
        *   Knit 2 rows (COL to COR, COR to COL). This completes one set of decreases.
        *   Repeat this decrease set 27 times total.
    *   This will use **54 rows (27 dec x 2 rows/dec = 54 rows)**.
    *   **RC: 156 (M/L/XL).**
    *   *Mathematical Validation:*
        *   M: 90 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 90 - 54 = 36 sts remaining.
        *   L: 100 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 100 - 54 = 46 sts remaining.
        *   XL: 110 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 110 - 54 = 56 sts remaining.
5.  **Back Neck:**
    *   **RC 156 (COL):** The remaining stitches (36 (M), 46 (L), 56 (XL)) form the back neck.
    *   **BO:** Bind off these stitches using a latch tool bind-off.
6.  **Finishing:** Remove from machine on WY.

### Front Panel

| Size       | M   | L    | XL   |
| :--------- | :-- | :--- | :--- |
| **Cast On Stitches** | 90  | 100  | 110  |
| **Raglan Decreases (each side)** | Varies | Varies | Varies |
| **Center Front Neck BO** | 16  | 18   | 20   |
| **Front Neck Decreases (each side)** | 11  | 13   | 15   |
| **Shoulder Stitches (final each side)** | 1   | 1    | 1    |

1.  **Set up:** Set machine to main yarn **T6-7**. Carriage on Right (COR).
2.  **Hem (Mock Rib):**
    *   **CO:** Select **90 (M), 100 (L), 110 (XL)** needles. Using WY, CO and knit 10-15 rows. Add ravel cord (RC 0).
    *   Switch to main yarn. Knit 1 row (COL).
    *   **RC 1:** Rehang the Cast-On row stitches onto the active needles to create a mock rib hem.
    *   Knit 11 rows (RC 12).
    *   *Carriage to COR.* Change tension to **T8**.
3.  **Body (Stockinette):**
    *   Knit straight in Stockinette stitch until piece measures approximately **17 inches (43 cm)** from hem, ending with carriage on the left (COL).
    *   **RC: 102 (M/L/XL).**
    *   *Mathematical Validation: 17 inches * 6 rows/inch = 102 rows.*
4.  **Raglan Armhole Shaping & Front Neck Shaping:**
    *   **RC 102 (COL):** Begin raglan shaping. **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row.**
    *   Knit **20 rows** (10 raglan decreases per side).
    *   **RC: 122 (M/L/XL).**
    *   *Mathematical Validation:*
        *   M: 90 sts - (10 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 70 sts remaining.
        *   L: 100 sts - (10 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 80 sts remaining.
        *   XL: 110 sts - (10 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 90 sts remaining.
    *   **RC 122 (COL): Shape Front Neck.**
        *   **Center BO:**
            *   M: Latch tool **BO 16 center sts.**
            *   L: Latch tool **BO 18 center sts.**
            *   XL: Latch tool **BO 20 center sts.**
        *   Place remaining needles on either side of the bound-off section into HN (holding position).
        *   **Work one side at a time.**
        *   *Carriage to COR.* (The side with the carriage knits, the other side is in hold).
        *   **Continue raglan decreases (1 st at armhole edge every 2nd row) AND shape neck edge:**
            *   **Neck Dec A:** Decrease 1 st at neck edge every 2nd row for **8 times** (16 rows).
            *   **Neck Dec B:** Decrease 1 st at neck edge every 4th row for **3 times** (12 rows).
            *   Total neck decreases = 8 + 3 = 11 (M), 11 (L), 11 (XL).
            *   Total rows for Neck Dec A + B = 16 + 12 = 28 rows.
        *   After 28 rows of neck shaping:
            *   **Total rows for raglan so far:** 20 (initial) + 28 (during neck shaping) = 48 rows.
            *   **Remaining raglan rows:** 54 (total depth) - 48 = 6 rows.
            *   **Raglan decreases so far:** 10 (initial) + 14 (during neck shaping) = 24. (28 rows / 2 rows/dec = 14 dec).
            *   **Continue knitting for 6 more rows**, applying the raglan decrease (1 st at armhole edge every 2nd row) for **3 more times.** (No more neck decreases).
            *   **RC: 156 (M/L/XL).** (122 + 28 + 6 = 156).
        *   *Mathematical Validation (Size L):*
            *   At RC 122, 80 sts. BO 18 center. Remaining 62 sts, so **31 sts per side**.
            *   Raglan Dec: 17 more (14 from neck shaping phase + 3 from final 6 rows).
            *   Neck Dec: 11 (8 every 2nd + 3 every 4th).
            *   Total decreases on one shoulder: 17 (raglan) + 11 (neck) = 28 sts.
            *   Remaining sts: 31 (start) - 28 (dec) = **3 sts**.
        *   **BO:** Bind off remaining **3 (M), 3 (L), 3 (XL)** stitches at each shoulder using a latch tool bind-off.
    *   Remove from machine on WY.

### Sleeves (Make 2)

| Size       | M   | L    | XL   |
| :--------- | :-- | :--- | :--- |
| **Cuff Stitches**  | 36  | 40   | 44   |
| **Bicep Stitches (final)** | 64  | 72   | 80   |
| **Total Increases (each side)** | 14  | 16   | 18   |
| **Raglan Decreases (each side)** | 27  | 27   | 27   |
| **Sleeve Top Stitches (final)** | 10  | 18   | 26   |

1.  **Set up:** Set machine to main yarn **T6-7**. Carriage on Right (COR).
2.  **Cuff (Mock Rib):**
    *   **CO:** Select **36 (M), 40 (L), 44 (XL)** needles. Using WY, CO and knit 10-15 rows. Add ravel cord (RC 0).
    *   Switch to main yarn. Knit 1 row (COL).
    *   **RC 1:** Rehang the Cast-On row stitches onto the active needles to create a mock rib cuff.
    *   Knit 11 rows (RC 12).
    *   *Carriage to COR.* Change tension to **T8**.
3.  **Sleeve Shaping (Increases):**
    *   Work in Stockinette stitch.
    *   **Inc 1 st at each end every 8th row** until you have **64 (M), 72 (L), 80 (XL)** stitches on the machine.
        *   To increase: With carriage on the right, use a transfer tool to pick up the loop from the row below the 1st active needle on the left, and place it on the empty needle to the left (inc 1 st at COL). Knit 1 row (COL to COR). With carriage on the right, pick up the loop from the row below the 1st active needle on the right, and place it on the empty needle to the right (inc 1 st at COR). Knit 1 row (COR to COL).
        *   *Mathematical Validation (Size L):*
            *   Starting: 40 sts. Target: 72 sts. Increases needed: 72 - 40 = 32 sts. So, 16 increases per side.
            *   16 increases * 8 rows/inc = 128 rows.
            *   Total rows for sleeve body (after cuff): **128 rows (M/L/XL).**
            *   **RC: 12 + 128 = 140 (M/L/XL).** (This is the RC at the end of the increases, and the start of the raglan shaping).
4.  **Raglan Cap Shaping:**
    *   **RC 140 (COL):** Begin raglan shaping.
    *   **Dec 1 st at each end every 2nd row for 27 times.**
        *   To decrease: With carriage on the left, transfer the 2nd stitch from the right edge onto the 1st stitch. Return empty needle to WFN. Transfer the 2nd stitch from the left edge onto the 1st stitch. Return empty needle to WFN.
        *   Knit 2 rows. Repeat this decrease set 27 times total.
    *   This will use **54 rows (27 dec x 2 rows/dec = 54 rows).**
    *   **RC: 140 + 54 = 194 (M/L/XL).**
    *   *Mathematical Validation:*
        *   M: 64 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 64 - 54 = 10 sts remaining.
        *   L: 72 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 72 - 54 = 18 sts remaining.
        *   XL: 80 sts - (27 dec * 2 sts/dec) = 80 - 54 = 26 sts remaining.
5.  **Sleeve Top:**
    *   **RC 194 (COL):** The remaining stitches (10 (M), 18 (L), 26 (XL)) form the top of the sleeve cap.
    *   **BO:** Bind off these stitches using a latch tool bind-off.
6.  **Finishing:** Remove from machine on WY.

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## Finishing Instructions

1.  **Steam/Block all pieces:** Gently steam or wet block all sweater pieces to gauge dimensions. This helps even out stitches and prepare for seaming.
2.  **Seaming:**
    *   **Raglan Seams:** Lay out the pieces. Using a tapestry needle and main yarn, mattress stitch the raglan edges together. Attach the top of each sleeve to the corresponding raglan lines on the Front and Back panels. You will have four raglan seams.
    *   **Side Seams:** Mattress stitch the side seams of the Front and Back panels from the hem up to the underarm.
    *   **Underarm/Sleeve Seams:** Mattress stitch the underarm and sleeve seams from the cuff up to the underarm.
3.  **Neckband:**
    *   Carefully remove the ravel cord and WY from the neck edges of the Front and Back panels and the top of the sleeve pieces, placing the live stitches onto the machine's needles.
    *   **Stitches to Rehang for Neckband:**
        *   Front: Rehang the 3 live stitches from each shoulder (total 6 sts) and pick up 1 stitch for every row along the neck decreases from the front neckline. Pick up the original cast-off center stitches. This will be approximately 40-50 stitches depending on size and how neatly you pick up.
        *   Back: Rehang the 36 (M), 46 (L), 56 (XL) live stitches.
        *   Sleeves: Rehang the 10 (M), 18 (L), 26 (XL) live stitches from each sleeve top (total 20, 36, 52 sts).
        *   Aim for approximately 110-130 stitches total around the neckline for a comfortable fit (approx 24-28 inches / 61-71 cm circumference for size L). You may need to pick up or skip stitches evenly to achieve an appropriate stitch count for your desired neckband width.
    *   **Machine Setup:** Set machine to **T6-7**.
    *   **Knit:** Knit 8-10 rows in Stockinette (or mock rib, if desired, by rehanging every 2nd stitch from the knit row below onto the adjacent needle to create a tighter band).
    *   **BO:** Latch tool bind off all neckband stitches.
4.  **Weave in Ends:** Using a tapestry needle, weave in all remaining yarn ends neatly.
5.  **Final Press/Steam:** Give the finished sweater a final steam or light press according to your yarn's care instructions.

Your beginner raglan sweater is complete! Enjoy your new handmade garment.

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