purlJam

# Modern Grid Cardigan
### A Beginner-Friendly T-Shaped Colorwork Kimono Cardigan

A relaxed, boxy cardigan worked flat in five simple rectangles, then seamed into a classic T-shape — no armhole, shoulder, or sleeve shaping to worry about. A clean two-color **grid motif** runs across the body and sleeves, created with easy single-row color changes. Perfect for an advancing beginner who wants a modern, graphic finish without complicated construction.

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## Skill Level
**Beginner** (confident with chain, sc, dc, and basic seaming; introduces simple two-color carry-along stripes/grid)

## US Crochet Terminology
This pattern uses **US stitch names** throughout.

### Abbreviations
- **ch** — chain
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **sc** — single crochet
- **dc** — double crochet
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **fsc** — foundation single crochet
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side
- **MC** — Main Color
- **CC** — Contrast Color
- **rep** — repeat

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## Finished Measurements

| Size | Bust Circumference | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Sleeve Width |
|------|-------------------|-------------|---------------|--------------|
| **S/M** | 44 in (112 cm) | 26 in (66 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| **L/XL** | 52 in (132 cm) | 28 in (71 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 19 in (48 cm) |
| **2XL/3XL** | 60 in (152 cm) | 30 in (76 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 20 in (51 cm) |

*Designed with 8–12 in (20–30 cm) of positive ease for an oversized, boxy fit. Choose your size by adding at least 8 in to your actual bust measurement. Length and sleeve length matter more than exact bust fit — adjust freely by working more or fewer rows.*

**Sample shown in size S/M.**

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (#4), wool or wool/acrylic blend recommended for crisp grid definition.
  - **MC:** approx. 900 / 1100 / 1300 yds (820 / 1010 / 1190 m)
  - **CC:** approx. 350 / 420 / 500 yds (320 / 385 / 460 m)
- **Hook:** US H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Optional: 2 buttons (1 in / 25 mm) or a sash belt for closure

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## Gauge

**16 sts × 9 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in double crochet (dc)**, blocked.

*Gauge check: 16 sts ÷ 4 in = 4 sts per inch; 9 rows ÷ 4 in = 2.25 rows per inch. All piece counts below are derived from these figures.*

Always make a gauge swatch. Take time to check gauge — the boxy fit is forgiving, but accurate gauge keeps your grid motif square.

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## Stitch Pattern Notes

- The body and sleeves are worked in **dc rows** with **simple two-color grid work** (see **Attached Stitch Chart** section).
- Turn at the end of every row; the piece is worked **flat**.
- Color changes happen at the **end of a row**: complete the final yarn-over of the last stitch with the new color, then turn.
- Carry the unused color **loosely up the side edge** — no need to cut it. This keeps the work beginner-friendly.

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## Attached Stitch Chart

**A separate stitch chart panel is attached to this pattern.** Do not look for a grid inside this text — the full visual grid lives on the **attached chart asset**.

**Where it is placed:** The attached chart appears as its own panel immediately following this pattern document. Refer to it whenever an instruction says *"work Grid Chart Row X."*

**How to read it (crochet, worked flat):**
- Each **square = one stitch**; each **horizontal line of squares = one row**.
- **Read RS (odd) rows from RIGHT to LEFT**, and **WS (even) rows from LEFT to RIGHT** — following the turning direction of flat crochet.
- Row numbers are printed on the side where that row **begins**.
- **Filled squares = CC**, **empty squares = MC** (see the chart's own key to confirm).
- The chart shows **one horizontal repeat** of the grid motif; rep it across the row as directed.

**Color/yarn management:**
- Carry the non-working color loosely along the edge of the work between rows; do not cut.
- Change to the new color by working the **last yarn-over of the stitch before the change** in the new color.
- For isolated grid lines within a row, carry the unused color across the back (WS), enclosing it under your stitches every 2–3 sts to avoid long floats.

**Stitch-count integration math:**
- The Grid Chart repeat is **8 sts wide**.
- **Back (88 sts):** 88 ÷ 8 = **11 full repeats** across the row. ✓
- **Each Front (44 sts):** 44 ÷ 8 = **5 repeats + 4 sts**. Work 5 full repeats, then the first 4 sts of the chart to complete the row.
- **Each Sleeve (72 sts):** 72 ÷ 8 = **9 full repeats** across the row. ✓

*If you resize, keep your stitch count a multiple of 8 (plus any partial edge) so the grid stays aligned.*

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## Construction Overview

This is a **T-shaped kimono-style cardigan**. It is worked in **five flat rectangles**:
- **1 Back** (full rectangle, no shaping)
- **2 Fronts** (half-width rectangles, no shaping)
- **2 Sleeves** (wide rectangles, **same width top to bottom — no tapering**)

There is **no armhole shaping, no shoulder shaping, and no sleeve tapering** — the relaxed, dropped-shoulder fit is the whole point.

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## THE BACK

Stitch counts shown for **S/M / L/XL / 2XL/3XL**.

**Foundation:** Using MC, work **88 / 104 / 120 fsc**.
*(Check: 88 ÷ 4 sts/in = 22 in wide = half of 44 in bust ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 2 (does not count as st), dc in each fsc across, turn. — **88 / 104 / 120 dc**

**Rows 2 onward:** ch 2, dc in each st across, turn — following the **Grid Chart** for color placement (begin Chart Row 1 on Row 2, or wherever you prefer to start the grid; the sample begins the grid on Row 4 to leave a solid MC hem).

Continue in dc, working the grid motif, until the Back measures **26 / 28 / 30 in (66 / 71 / 76 cm)** from foundation — approximately **58 / 63 / 67 rows**.
*(Check: 26 in × 2.25 rows/in = 58.5 → 58 rows ✓)*

Fasten off.

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## THE FRONTS (make 2)

**Foundation:** Using MC, work **44 / 52 / 60 fsc**.
*(Check: 44 ÷ 4 = 11 in; two fronts = 22 in = back width ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 2, dc in each fsc across, turn. — **44 / 52 / 60 dc**

**Rows 2 onward:** ch 2, dc in each st across, turn — following the **Grid Chart** (5 full repeats + 4 sts per row; see chart math above).

Work until the Front matches the Back in length: **26 / 28 / 30 in**, approximately **58 / 63 / 67 rows**.

Fasten off.

**Make a second Front identical to the first.** Because there is no neckline angling, both fronts are mirror-identical rectangles — the V-neck opening is formed naturally by the open center front. (If you prefer a softer neckline, see *Optional Neckline* below.)

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## THE SLEEVES (make 2)

Sleeves are **straight rectangles — do NOT increase or decrease.**

**Foundation:** Using MC, work **72 / 76 / 80 fsc**.
*(Check: 72 ÷ 4 = 18 in wide ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 2, dc in each fsc across, turn. — **72 / 76 / 80 dc**

**Rows 2 onward:** ch 2, dc in each st across, turn — following the **Grid Chart** (9 full repeats per row for S/M).

Work until the Sleeve measures **18 in (46 cm)** from foundation, approximately **40 rows**.
*(Check: 18 in × 2.25 rows/in = 40.5 → 40 rows ✓)*

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

**Make a second Sleeve identical to the first.**

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## Optional Neckline (beginner-friendly)

To soften the front opening into a gentle V, you may decrease at the **center-front edge** of each Front over the top **6 in (about 14 rows)**: at the neck edge of every RS row, work *sc2tog* over the first 2 sts, then continue in dc. This is fully optional — the default rectangular fronts produce a clean modern straight opening.

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## ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces to measurements **before** seaming (see Blocking below). Use mattress stitch or sl st seams with MC.

1. **Seam shoulders:** Lay the Back RS up. Align each Front to the Back at the top edge. Seam **straight across** from the armhole edge inward, leaving the **center 9 / 10 / 11 in (23 / 25 / 28 cm)** open for the neck. This straight horizontal seam is the kimono shoulder — **no shoulder shaping.**
2. **Attach sleeves:** Fold the cardigan so shoulder seams lie flat. Center the top edge of each Sleeve at the shoulder seam and pin the sleeve's **top edge perpendicular to the body's side edge** (dropped-shoulder, right-angle attachment). The sleeve top (18 in) attaches over 9 in down the front and 9 in down the back from the shoulder seam. Seam in place.
3. **Seam sides:** Starting at the hem, seam each side of the body up to the underarm point where the sleeve begins.
4. **Seam sleeve undersides:** Continue seaming from the underarm down to the sleeve cuff.
5. Weave in all ends.

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## EDGING

**Front & Neck Band:**
With MC and RS facing, join at the bottom right front corner.
- **Round 1:** Work sc evenly up the right front, around the back neck, and down the left front. Work approximately **3 sc for every 4 row-ends** along the vertical edges, and **1 sc per st** along the back neck. Place 1 sc in corners as needed to keep the edge flat.
- **Round 2:** ch 1, sc in each sc across (or work **reverse sc / crab stitch** for a subtle corded finish). Fasten off.

**Cuffs & Hem:** Optional — work 1 round of sc around each cuff and along the hem for a tidy edge.

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## CLOSURE OPTIONS

- **Worn open** (default — clean and modern)
- **Sash belt:** Make a ch the length of 2× your waist + 20 in, work 3 rows of sc, fasten off.
- **Buttons:** Sew 2 buttons to the right front band; use the natural gaps between dc stitches on the left band as buttonholes, or add ch-2 loops to one band during edging Round 1.

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## BLOCKING

Wet-block or steam-block all pieces to the finished measurements **before assembly**. Blocking opens up the dc fabric, evens out the grid motif, and gives the cardigan its relaxed drape. Pin each rectangle square, ensuring the grid lines run straight, and allow to dry fully.

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## Finished Measurement Verification

- **Bust:** Back 22 in + 2 Fronts (11 in × 2 = 22 in) = **44 in total ✓** (S/M)
- **Body length:** 58 rows ÷ 2.25 rows/in = **25.8 ≈ 26 in ✓**
- **Sleeve width:** 72 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = **18 in ✓**
- **Sleeve length:** 40 rows ÷ 2.25 rows/in = **17.8 ≈ 18 in ✓**
- **Chart alignment:** Back 88 ÷ 8 = 11 reps ✓; Sleeve 72 ÷ 8 = 9 reps ✓; Front 44 = 5 reps + 4 sts ✓

Enjoy your Modern Grid Cardigan!