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# Navy Mohair Pintuck Boxer Shorts

A snug, top-down seamless knit boxer short in soft navy mohair-blend worsted, featuring delicate vertical **pintuck channels** running down each side from waistband to hem. Worked primarily in stockinette stitch with a comfortable ribbed waist and German short-row seat shaping for a true fitted-boxer silhouette.

**Skill Level:** Beginner (with one new technique: German Short Rows — explained in pattern)

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## Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL)

**Finished Hip:** 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)" / 81 (91, 101.5, 112, 122) cm
**Finished Waist (relaxed ribbing):** 28½ (32, 35½, 39, 42½)" / 72 (81, 90, 99, 108) cm — stretches to fit waist 28–34 (32–38, 36–42, 40–46, 44–50)"
**Total Rise:** 10 (10½, 11, 11½, 12)" / 25.5 (26.5, 28, 29, 30.5) cm
**Inseam:** 4" / 10 cm

*Designed with 0–1" of negative-to-zero ease at the hip for a snug, fitted boxer fit.*

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted-weight mohair-blend (e.g., 60% mohair / 40% wool or merino-mohair blend) in **Navy**
  - Approx. 450 (500, 575, 650, 725) yards / 410 (460, 525, 595, 665) m
- **Needles:**
  - US 8 / 5 mm — 24" / 60 cm circular needle (main)
  - US 8 / 5 mm — DPNs or short circular for legs (magic loop OK)
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm — 24" / 60 cm circular needle (for waistband, optional)
- **Notions:** 6 stitch markers (1 unique BOR marker, 2 unique "side/pintuck" markers, 3 plain), tapestry needle, stitch holders or scrap yarn, optional ½" / 1.25 cm wide elastic for casing waistband

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## Gauge

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette stitch in the round on US 8 / 5 mm needles, after blocking.

> ⚠️ **Mohair note:** Mohair is fuzzy and difficult to unravel cleanly. **Please swatch and block** before starting. Use a lifeline every 1–2" if you're new to short rows.

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## Abbreviations

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **pm / sm** — place marker / slip marker
- **M1L / M1R** — make 1 left / right (lifted increase)
- **k2tog / ssk** — right-/left-leaning decrease
- **DS** — double stitch (German Short Row turn)
- **MC** — main color (Navy)

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## Special Techniques

### Pintuck Channel (worked at each side seam)
A vertical "tuck" formed by 2 purl ridges flanking a center knit column. Worked over **5 sts**:
**Pintuck 5:** p1, k1, p1, k1, p1
This creates the look of a sharp, raised pleat down each side. Worked every round.

### German Short Rows (GSR)
- **Make a Double Stitch (MDS):** Bring yarn to front, slip next st purlwise, pull yarn firmly up and over the needle to the back so both legs of the st show on the needle (looks like 2 sts) — this is the **DS**.
- When you encounter a DS later, knit (or purl) both legs together as one st.

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## Pattern

### 1. Waistband

With smaller (US 7) needle and using **Long-Tail Cast-On**, CO **128 (144, 160, 176, 192) sts**.

Place BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Setup Round:** *k1, p1*; rep from * around.

Work in 1×1 ribbing as established until waistband measures **1½" / 4 cm** from cast-on.

**Choose your finish:**
- **Option A (Standard ribbed waistband):** Continue to next section directly.
- **Option B (Folded casing for elastic):** Work an additional 1½" / 4 cm of stockinette (knit every round), then later fold to inside and whipstitch in place during finishing, leaving a small gap to thread elastic.

> *Math check:* 128 sts ÷ 18 sts/4" = 28.4" relaxed; ribbing stretches comfortably to 32–34". ✓

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### 2. Establish Pintuck Markers & Transition to Body

Switch to **larger (US 8) needle**.

**Setup Round:**
- k 1 st (this is the center of the right-side pintuck panel)
- Remove BOR marker, place **PINTUCK MARKER A** here. Re-position the BOR by knitting back 2 sts so BOR sits 2 sts before pintuck center. *Easier method:* simply keep your existing BOR and place markers at fixed counts:

**Cleaner setup — work this round:**
1. k2, **pm (Pintuck A start)**, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, **pm (Pintuck A end)** — 5-st pintuck at right side
2. k to **64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts** from BOR mark... 

Use this simpler placement instead:

**Round 1 (Pintuck Setup):**
- *k [60 (68, 76, 84, 92) sts for front panel], pm, **Pintuck 5** (p1, k1, p1, k1, p1), pm; rep from * once more.* — total 128 (144, 160, 176, 192) sts; 2 pintuck panels established at each side.

> *Math check:* 60 + 5 + 60 + 5 = 130. Adjust: front/back panels = (Total − 10) / 2 = **59 (67, 75, 83, 91) sts each**. Use these numbers:
>
> **Round 1 (corrected):** k 59 (67, 75, 83, 91), pm, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, pm, k 59 (67, 75, 83, 91), pm, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, pm. Total = **128 (144, 160, 176, 192) sts**. ✓

**Pattern reminder for all following rounds:** Knit all front and back panel sts; work Pintuck 5 between markers as **p1, k1, p1, k1, p1** every round.

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### 3. Hip Increases

**Increase Round:** *k to 1 st before pintuck marker, M1R, k1, sm, work Pintuck 5, sm, k1, M1L; rep from * once more, k to end. — **4 sts increased**.

Work **Increase Round every 4th round, 4 times total.** Knit/work pintuck as established on plain rounds.

**New stitch count:** 128 + 16 = **144 (160, 176, 192, 208) sts**
Front/back panels now: **67 (75, 83, 91, 99) sts** each; pintuck panels remain 5 sts each.

> *Math check:* 144 sts ÷ 18 × 4 = 32" hip ✓ (matches XS finished hip).

Work even (knit panels, work Pintuck 5) until piece measures **5 (5¼, 5½, 5¾, 6)" / 12.5 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 15) cm** from cast-on.

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### 4. Seat Shaping — German Short Rows

You will work back-and-forth across the **back panel only** (the second panel after BOR). Stop knitting when you reach the start of the back panel marker.

> Tip: place a removable marker at the center of the back panel before beginning.

**Short Row 1 (RS):** Work in pattern across the back panel to last 6 sts of the back panel, turn.
**Short Row 2 (WS):** MDS, purl across back panel to last 6 sts, turn.
**Short Row 3 (RS):** MDS, knit to 4 sts before previous DS, turn.
**Short Row 4 (WS):** MDS, purl to 4 sts before previous DS, turn.
**Short Row 5 (RS):** MDS, knit to 4 sts before previous DS, turn.
**Short Row 6 (WS):** MDS, purl to 4 sts before previous DS, turn.

Resume working in the round. On the next full round, when you encounter each DS, **knit both legs together as one stitch**.

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### 5. Work Even to Crotch

Continue in established pattern (stockinette + side Pintucks) until total piece measures **10 (10½, 11, 11½, 12)" / 25.5 (26.5, 28, 29, 30.5) cm** from cast-on at the **front** (do not measure over the short-row hump).

Work one final round and end at BOR.

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### 6. Crotch Division

Total live sts: **144 (160, 176, 192, 208)**.

**Divide as follows:**
- Place the **back half — 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts** (back panel + 1 pintuck on each side, totaling 67+5+5 / 2... use this simple rule: place sts from BOR + (front panel + 1st pintuck) onward, on holder.)

**Simpler division instructions:**
- From BOR, knit across **front panel + first pintuck panel = 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts** — these are the **first leg's "front" sts**, keep on needle.
- Place remaining **72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts** on a holder/scrap yarn for the second leg.

> *Math check:* 67 + 5 = 72 ✓ (XS); pattern holds for all sizes.

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### 7. First Leg

With working yarn attached at end of the held front sts, **cast on 8 sts using Backward-Loop Cast-On** for the inner-leg gusset. Join into the round with the 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) live sts. Place new BOR marker at the start of the gusset.

**Total leg sts:** **80 (88, 96, 104, 112)**

Continue working the **side pintuck panel** in pattern (it now sits on the outer side of the leg). Knit all other sts.

**Leg taper (optional but recommended):**
**Decrease Round:** k1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before end, ssk, k1. — 2 sts dec.
Work Decrease Round every **8th round, 3 times.** — **74 (82, 90, 98, 106) sts**.

Work even until leg measures **3¼" / 8 cm** from gusset cast-on.

**Leg cuff:** Switch to smaller (US 7) needle. Work **¾" / 2 cm** in 1×1 ribbing (k1, p1 around). Bind off loosely using a **stretchy bind-off** (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off recommended).

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### 8. Second Leg

Return the held **72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts** to the larger needle.
Rejoin yarn. Pick up and knit **8 sts** from the backward-loop cast-on edge of the first leg's gusset (work into the bumps along the cast-on row).

Place BOR marker at start of picked-up gusset sts.

**Total leg sts:** **80 (88, 96, 104, 112)** — matches first leg ✓

Work identically to the first leg: optional taper, plain rounds to length, ribbed cuff, stretchy bind-off.

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### 9. Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, working ends into the fuzzy mohair to disguise them.
2. **Wet block** to schematic measurements: lay flat, gently shape, and let dry. Pintuck channels will sharpen with blocking — pinch and pin the purl ridges if desired.
3. **If you chose Option B (casing waistband):** Fold the stockinette section to the inside along the natural fold line and whipstitch the cast-on edge to the inside of the work, leaving a 1" / 2.5 cm gap. Cut elastic to your snug waist measurement minus 1" / 2.5 cm, thread through with a safety pin, overlap and stitch ends, then close the gap.

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## Schematic Summary

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Waist (relaxed) | 28½" | 32" | 35½" | 39" | 42½" |
| Hip | 32" | 36" | 40" | 44" | 48" |
| Total Rise | 10" | 10½" | 11" | 11½" | 12" |
| Inseam | 4" | 4" | 4" | 4" | 4" |
| CO sts | 128 | 144 | 160 | 176 | 192 |
| Hip sts | 144 | 160 | 176 | 192 | 208 |
| Leg sts (after gusset) | 80 | 88 | 96 | 104 | 112 |

Enjoy your soft, cozy navy mohair pintuck boxers! 🧶