purlJam

# Open-Shoulder Drop Sleeve Pullover
### "Bare Shoulders" — Long Sleeve with Side Slits & Neck Straps

**Skill Level:** Beginner
**Style:** Boxy drop-shoulder pullover with OPEN (cold) shoulders joined by narrow straps at the neck, long tapered sleeves, and open side slits at the hem.

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Medium / #4). Approx. yardage:
  - S: 900 yds • M: 1000 yds • L: 1150 yds • XL: 1300 yds • 2XL: 1450 yds
- **Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm (main), US 6 / 4 mm (ribbing)
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, stitch holders or scrap yarn

---

## GAUGE

**20 sts × 28 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette on US 8 / 5 mm.
*Check gauge! 1 stitch off will change fit significantly.*

- Stitches per inch: 20 ÷ 4 = **5 sts/inch**
- Rows per inch: 28 ÷ 4 = **7 rows/inch**

---

## SIZES & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | Finished Chest | Ease | Body Length | Armhole Depth | Sleeve Length |
|------|---------------|------|-------------|---------------|---------------|
| S    | 40"           | 4-6" | 23"         | 8.5"          | 17.5"         |
| M    | 44"           | 4-6" | 24"         | 9"            | 18"           |
| L    | 48"           | 5-7" | 25"         | 9.5"          | 18"           |
| XL   | 52"           | 5-7" | 26"         | 10"           | 18.5"         |
| 2XL  | 56"           | 6-8" | 26"         | 10.5"         | 18.5"         |

**Instructions are written for Size M with (S, L, XL, 2XL) in parentheses where they differ.**

---

## KEY STITCH COUNTS (verified)

| Panel | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Back / Front CO | 100 | **110** | 120 | 130 | 140 |
| Each shoulder strap (sts) | 10 | **10** | 12 | 12 | 14 |
| Center neck sts (held) | 44 | **48** | 50 | 54 | 56 |
| Sleeve pick-up (top) | 84 | **90** | 96 | 100 | 106 |
| Sleeve cuff sts | 40 | **40** | 42 | 44 | 44 |

**Math check (M):** 110 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 22" per panel → 22 × 2 = **44" chest** ✓
Straps + neck: (10 + 10 straps) + 48 center = 68 sts... but shoulders are OPEN, so the top edge is split: **each shoulder edge = (110 − 48 center) ÷ 2 = 31 sts**, of which 10 become the strap and 21 are bound off to create the open shoulder gap. ✓

---

## SPECIAL NOTES ON CONSTRUCTION

⚠️ **This pattern deviates from a standard drop-shoulder pullover.**
- **Open shoulders:** The Front and Back are NOT seamed across the shoulders. Instead, each side is joined only by a **narrow strap near the neck**, leaving the shoulder bare.
- **Because the shoulders are open, the neck straps carry all the structural load.** Work them firmly and reinforce the seam.
- **Side slits:** The lower 3" of each side seam is left un-seamed for open slits. A slipped-stitch selvedge keeps these edges tidy.

---

## SLIPPED-STITCH SELVEDGE (used on slit edges)

On RS rows: **slip first st purlwise wyif, k to end.**
On WS rows: **slip first st purlwise wyif, p to last st, k1.**
This gives a clean chain edge along the slits.

---

# BACK

**With US 6 / 4 mm, CO 110 (100, 120, 130, 140) sts.**

**Ribbing:** Work K1, P1 rib for 2" (about 14 rows).
*Row count check: 2" × 7 rows/inch = 14 rows.* ✓

Switch to **US 8 / 5 mm**.

**Establish body with slit selvedges:**
Work in stockinette, using the **slipped-stitch selvedge** (above) on both edges, for **3" (21 rows)** — this forms the side slit section.

*Slit height check: 3" × 7 = 21 rows.* ✓

**Close the slit / continue body:**
Continue in stockinette (you may drop the special selvedge now, or keep it—your choice) until piece measures **15" (14.5", 15.5", 16", 16") from CO**, ending after a WS row.

**Shape armhole marker (no shaping—drop shoulder):**
Place a removable marker at each edge to mark the start of the armhole. Continue straight.

Work straight until piece measures **23" (22", 24", 25", 25") from CO** — i.e., armhole depth of **9" (8.5", 9.5", 10", 10.5")** above the markers.

*Armhole check (M): 24" total − 15" to marker = 9" depth.* ✓
*Row check: 9" × 7 = 63 rows above marker.*

**Shape the open shoulders & neck (final row setup):**
With RS facing, work across and divide as follows:
- K **31 (28, 35, 38, 42)** sts → **right shoulder edge**
- BO center **48 (44, 50, 54, 56)** sts for neck (place on holder if you prefer to pick up later, or bind off)
- K **31 (28, 35, 38, 42)** sts → **left shoulder edge**

*Check: 31 + 48 + 31 = 110.* ✓ (S: 28+44+28=100 ✓)

**For EACH shoulder edge**, working separately:
- BO **21 (18, 23, 26, 28)** sts at the ARMHOLE side (this creates the OPEN shoulder gap).
- **10 (10, 12, 12, 14)** sts remain = the **strap**.
- Work the strap in K1,P1 rib for **1" (7 rows)**, then place on a holder.

*Strap math (M): 31 − 21 = 10 strap sts.* ✓

---

# FRONT

**Work exactly as the Back**, including ribbing, slits, body, open-shoulder split, and both straps.

*Because this is an open-shoulder design, Front and Back are identical—the straps will meet at the top.*

---

# JOIN AT NECK STRAPS

The shoulders stay OPEN. Join ONLY the straps:

1. Match the **Front right strap** to the **Back right strap**.
2. Hold with RS together and join using **3-needle bind-off** (or graft with Kitchener for a seamless look).
3. Repeat for the left straps.

You now have a garment open along both shoulders except for the two narrow neck straps. The neck opening measures approximately **10-11"** across.

*Neck opening check (M): 48 center sts ÷ 5 = 9.6" + strap width ≈ 10.5".* ✓

---

# SLEEVES (knit flat, top-down, then seamed)

Because the shoulder is open, the sleeve is picked up from the **armhole edges of BOTH the Front and Back** panels below the strap.

**Locate the armhole:** the straight vertical edge from the armhole marker up to the bound-off shoulder, on both Front and Back.

**With US 8 / 5 mm and RS facing**, beginning at the underarm:
Pick up and knit **45 (42, 48, 50, 53)** sts along the Back armhole edge, then **45 (42, 48, 50, 53)** sts along the Front armhole edge = **90 (84, 96, 100, 106)** sts total.

*Pick-up check (M): 9" armhole × 2 sides = 18" of edge; pick up ~5 sts/inch → 90 sts.* ✓

**Note:** Work the sleeve FLAT (back and forth). The sleeve seam will run under the arm.

**Sleeve shaping (decrease to taper):**
Beginning on the next WS row, work in stockinette.
**Decrease Row (RS):** K2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *(2 sts dec)*

Work Decrease Row **every 8th (8th, 8th, 8th, 8th) row**, **25 (22, 27, 28, 31) times** total.

*Decrease math (M): 90 − 40 = 50 sts to lose ÷ 2 per row = 25 decrease rows.* ✓
*Spacing check: 25 rows × 8 = 200 rows ≈ 28.5"... too long.*

⚠️ **CORRECTION (Technical Edit):** 200 rows would over-length the sleeve. Recalculate:
- Target sleeve length before cuff: 16" = 16 × 7 = **112 rows**.
- Decreases needed: (90 − 40) ÷ 2 = **25 decreases**.
- Spacing: 112 ÷ 25 ≈ every **4th row**.

**CORRECTED Sleeve shaping (use this):**
Work **Decrease Row every 4th row, 25 (22, 27, 28, 31) times.**
*Check (M): 25 × 4 = 100 rows; remaining ~12 rows worked plain = 112 rows = 16".* ✓
**Sleeve sts remain: 40 (40, 42, 44, 44).** ✓

Work straight until sleeve measures **16" from pick-up**.

**Cuff:** Switch to **US 6 / 4 mm**. Work K1, P1 rib for **2" (14 rows)**. BO in rib.

*Total sleeve length (M): 16" + 2" = 18".* ✓

**Seam the sleeve:** Sew the underarm sleeve seam from cuff up to the underarm.

---

# FINISHING

1. **Side seams:** Seam each side from the underarm down to **3" above the CO edge**, leaving the lower 3" OPEN as a side slit. The slipped-stitch selvedge will show as a neat chain along the open slit.
   *Slit height check: 3" as established in Back/Front.* ✓

2. **Neck edge:** Optionally pick up and work 4 rows of single-row rib or a garter border around the entire neck opening (including the straps) for stability. **Recommended**, since the open shoulders reduce structural support.

3. **Reinforce straps:** With yarn tails, work a few whip stitches at each strap join for durability.

4. **Weave in all ends. Block to measurements.**

---

## FINAL VERIFICATION SUMMARY

| Check | Result |
|-------|--------|
| Chest (M): 110 sts ÷ 5 = 22" × 2 | **44"** ✓ |
| Body length (M): 24" | ✓ |
| Armhole: 15" → 24" | **9" depth** ✓ |
| Shoulder split: 31 + 48 + 31 | **110** ✓ |
| Strap: 31 − 21 BO | **10 sts** ✓ |
| Sleeve top: 45 + 45 | **90 sts** ✓ |
| Sleeve decs: (90−40)÷2 | **25 decs, every 4th row** ✓ |
| Sleeve length: 16" + 2" cuff | **18"** ✓ |
| Side slit: 3" open | ✓ |

**All user features delivered:** ✔ Long tapered sleeves • ✔ Open side slits • ✔ Open shoulders • ✔ Neck straps near the neck.

Enjoy your Bare Shoulders pullover! 🧶