purlJam

# Pink Mesh Summer Cardigan
### A Light & Airy T-Shaped Kimono Cardigan

**Skill Level:** Easy
**Construction:** Worked flat in 5 rectangular pieces, then seamed. T-shaped dropped-shoulder kimono — no armhole or sleeve shaping.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Sport weight (#2 Fine) cotton or cotton/bamboo blend in soft pink
  - Approx. yardage: **1000 / 1200 / 1450 yds** (915 / 1100 / 1325 m) for sizes S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X
- **Hook:** US E-4 / 3.5 mm (main fabric); US D-3 / 3.25 mm (optional, for edging)
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, blocking pins/mat
- **Optional closure:** 1 button/toggle, or 2 fabric ties (instructions included)

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## Gauge

In mesh pattern, on US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook:
**20 sts (10 dc + 10 ch-1 spaces) and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm)**

> 1 stitch ≈ 0.2" wide • 1 row ≈ 0.333" tall
> Gauge is forgiving due to the oversized fit, but check it to confirm length and sleeve fit.

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## Mesh Stitch Pattern (worked over an odd number of starting dc)

The mesh is a simple, repeating **(ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st)** pattern.

**Set-up row (RS):** Made on your foundation row (see each piece).
**Mesh Row:** Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first dc, *ch 1, skip ch-1 space, dc in next dc*; repeat from * across, ending dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

That's the entire pattern — easy and rhythmic!

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## Sizes & Finished Measurements

| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X |
|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust (buttoned/closed) | 44" | 52" | 60" |
| Body Length (hem to shoulder) | 24" | 24" | 25" |
| Sleeve Length (underarm) | 12" | 12" | 13" |
| Sleeve Width (flat) | 16" | 17" | 18" |

*Designed for 8–12" positive ease — meant to drape open and breezy.*

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## Key Stitch Counts (verify as you go)

| Piece | S/M | L/XL | 2X/3X |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back foundation (sts) | 111 | 131 | 151 |
| Each Front foundation (sts) | 55 | 65 | 75 |
| Each Sleeve foundation (sts) | 81 | 87 | 91 |
| Body rows | 72 | 72 | 75 |
| Sleeve rows | 36 | 36 | 39 |

**Math check (S/M):** Back 110 working sts × 0.2" = **22"**. Each Front 55 sts × 0.2" = **11"** → 11 + 11 + 22 = **44" bust** ✓
Body 72 rows × 0.333" = **24" length** ✓

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## BACK (make 1)

This is a simple rectangle — no shaping.

**Foundation:** Using foundation single crochet (fsc) for stretch, or ch + sc, make **111 / 131 / 151 sts**.
*(Tip: fsc makes a flexible, even edge. If chaining instead: ch 112/132/152, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across = 111/131/151 sc.)*

**Row 1 (set-up, RS):** Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first st, *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st*; rep from * across. You will end with a dc in the last st.
→ You now have 56/66/76 dc and 55/65/75 ch-1 spaces.

**Rows 2 and on:** Work **Mesh Row** as established.

Continue until piece measures **24 / 24 / 25"** from foundation (approx. **72 / 72 / 75 rows**). Fasten off.

> **No armhole shaping** — the top edge stays straight. This straight top is where the sleeves attach at a right angle (dropped shoulder).

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## LEFT FRONT (make 1)

Half-width rectangle, worked the same as the Back.

**Foundation:** Make **55 / 65 / 75 sts** (fsc or ch-and-sc method).

**Row 1 (set-up, RS):** Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first st, *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st*; rep across.
→ 28/33/38 dc and 27/32/37 ch-1 spaces.

**Rows 2 and on:** Work Mesh Row.

Continue until piece measures **24 / 24 / 25"** (approx. **72 / 72 / 75 rows**). Fasten off.

**Optional gentle neckline (easy):** The open mesh front naturally creates a soft neckline once edged, so **no neck shaping is required**. If you'd like a slightly scooped neck, simply stop working the last 4 rows over only the outer 45/53/61 sts (leave the inner 10/12/14 sts unworked to form a small notch), then fasten off.

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## RIGHT FRONT (make 1)

Work exactly as the Left Front. (Because the mesh is symmetrical and the cardigan is worn open, the two fronts are identical.)

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

Wide rectangles — **NO tapering, NO increases**. Same width top to bottom for a relaxed kimono sleeve.

**Foundation:** Make **81 / 87 / 91 sts** (fsc or ch-and-sc method).

**Row 1 (set-up, RS):** Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first st, *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st*; rep across.
→ 41/44/46 dc and 40/43/45 ch-1 spaces.
*(Width: 80/86/90 working sts × 0.2" = 16/17.2/18" ✓)*

**Rows 2 and on:** Work Mesh Row.

Continue until sleeve measures **12 / 12 / 13"** from foundation (approx. **36 / 36 / 39 rows**). Fasten off.

> These are short/elbow-length summer sleeves. For **3/4 length**, work to 15" (~45 rows). For **full length**, work to 18" (~54 rows). The width stays the same — that's what makes it a kimono sleeve.

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## ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces first (see Blocking) to relax the mesh and even out stitches.

**1. Shoulder seams (straight, horizontal):**
Lay the Back flat. Align the top edge of the Left Front with the left portion of the Back's top edge. Seam straight across **5 / 6 / 7" (about 25/30/35 sts)** from the outer (armhole) edge inward using mattress stitch or slip stitch. Repeat for the Right Front. The center remaining ~12/14/16 sts of the Back top form the back neck.

**2. Attach sleeves (perpendicular / dropped shoulder):**
Find the shoulder seam. Measure **8 / 8.5 / 9" down** the front and back from the seam and mark — this span equals the sleeve's top edge (16/17/18" total). Center the sleeve's top edge against the body at the shoulder seam and seam it on at a **right angle**. The sleeve hangs straight down — there is **no armhole curve**.

**3. Side seams:**
Seam each side from the hem up to the underarm point (where the sleeve attachment ends). Leave the bottom hem and front edges open.

**4. Sleeve underseams:**
Seam each sleeve from the underarm down to the cuff.

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## EDGING

Worked in continuous rounds around the full front opening and neck. Use the smaller D-3 / 3.25 mm hook for a tidier edge if desired.

**Round 1 (sc foundation):** Join yarn at the bottom Right Front corner. Sc evenly up the Right Front, around the back neck, and down the Left Front, ending at the bottom Left Front corner. Work approx. **1 sc per row** along verticals and **1 sc per st** along the neck. Place 3 sc in any outer corner. Do not break yarn.

**Round 2 (crab stitch / reverse sc — optional but pretty):** Ch 1, work reverse single crochet (working left-to-right) across the entire edge. Fasten off.

**Sleeve & hem edging (optional):** Work 1 round of sc around each cuff and around the bottom hem to firm up the open mesh edges. A shell edging — *(skip 1, 5 dc in next, skip 1, sc in next)* — makes a sweet summery finish.

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## CLOSURE OPTIONS (choose one)

- **Worn open:** No closure — the most breezy summer option.
- **Single button/toggle:** Sew one button to the Right Front near the bust; use a ch-space in the mesh on the Left Front as the buttonhole (no extra buttonhole needed thanks to the open mesh).
- **Fabric ties:** Make 2 chains, each 12" long (ch ~60, sc back across). Attach one to each front edge at bust height and tie in a bow.

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## BLOCKING

1. Soak pieces (or finished cardigan) in cool water with a little wool/cotton wash.
2. Gently squeeze out water — do **not** wring.
3. Lay flat to the finished measurements and pin gently. Open up the mesh just enough to reveal the airy pattern; **do not over-stretch**, as open mesh can grow.
4. Let dry completely before wearing.

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## FINISHED!

You now have a light, airy, pink mesh summer kimono cardigan with relaxed dropped shoulders, breezy short sleeves, and an open boxy fit — perfect for layering over summer dresses and tanks. 🌸

**Final size check (S/M):**
- Bust: (55 + 110 + 55 sts) × 0.2" = 44" ✓
- Length: 72 rows × 0.333" = 24" ✓
- Sleeve width: 80 sts × 0.2" = 16" ✓
- Sleeve length: 36 rows × 0.333" = 12" ✓