Ribbed Steep-Raglan Pullover

A seamless, top-down crew-neck raglan in all-over 1×1 rib. Steep raglan lines and a short-row back neck keep the shoulders visually narrow and the neckline from standing away from the body. Extra stitches on the front, a straight body, and voluminous sleeves make it easy over curves; the rib itself supplies the cling. Medium is written to a 19" (48.5 cm) neck and 43½" (110.5 cm) bust.

Construction: Full-circumference neckline with German short-row back raise. Worked in the round from the neck down; sleeves are divided at the underarm and finished in the round.

Skill level: Easy

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm.

Shown/target size M for a 38¼" (97 cm) bust.

Choose size by body bust. Rib is stretchy; the finished stitch counts already include about 5" (12.5 cm) of ease at gauge. If you are between sizes, pick the closer bust — do not size up “for curves.” The rib will skim bust, waist, and hip without waist shaping.

Finished measurements

Lightly stretched, at gauge.

• Bust / hip (straight): 40 (43½, 47¼, 50¾, 54¼)" / 101.5 (110.5, 120, 129, 138) cm
• Neck opening: 16¾ (19, 20¼, 21¾, 23)" / 42.5 (48.5, 51.5, 55, 58.5) cm
• Upper sleeve (voluminous): 16¾ (18, 19¾, 21½, 23)" / 42.5 (45.5, 50.5, 54.5, 58.5) cm
• Wrist / cuff: 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm
• Yoke depth at front (cast-on to underarm): 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm
• Back neck raise: about 1½" (4 cm) extra
• Body length, underarm to hem: 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)" / 35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5) cm
• Sleeve length, underarm to cuff edge: 17½ (18, 18½, 19, 19)" / 44.5 (45.5, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm
• Total back length, neck edge to hem: about 22¾ (24, 25, 26¼, 27½)" / 58 (61, 63.5, 66.5, 70) cm

Yarn

Fingering-weight sock yarn (wool or wool blend recommended for stitch definition and recovery).

Approximate yardage: 1530 (1750, 1970, 2250, 2520) yd / 1400 (1600, 1800, 2060, 2300) m.

Allow 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of 100 g / 400 m. Rib uses more yarn than stockinette; buy an extra skein if your swatch is dense.

Needles

• US 6 / 4 mm, 16" (40 cm) circular for the neck
• US 6 / 4 mm, 32–40" (80–100 cm) circular for yoke and body
• US 6 / 4 mm DPNs or a long circular for magic-loop sleeves

Or size needed to match gauge.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (one unique for beginning of round)
• Waste yarn or extra cables for sleeve stitches
• Tapestry needle
• Row counter (helpful on the yoke)

Gauge

29 sts and 33 rows/rounds = 4" (10 cm) in 1×1 rib, lightly stretched, after blocking, on US 6 / 4 mm.

Swatch in the round (or a large flat swatch with the edges excluded). Stretch the rib just as it will sit on the body — not yanked, not collapsed. Measure over 4" (10 cm).

Abbreviations (US)

BOR – beginning of round
CO – cast on
BO – bind off
DS – German short-row double stitch
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
M1L – make 1 left (lift the strand between stitches from front to back, knit through the back loop)
M1R – make 1 right (lift the strand between stitches from back to front, knit through the front loop)
pm – place marker
slm – slip marker
st(s) – stitch(es)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS / WS – right side / wrong side
yo – yarn over

1×1 rib: *k1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Notes

All-over rib. The entire sweater is 1×1 rib. There is no separate hem band — bind off in pattern when the body is long enough. Cuffs and neckband are the same rib, which keeps edges elastic.

Raglan lines. Four 2-stitch knit columns run from neck to underarm. Work those 2 stitches as knit every round. Increases sit immediately outside them. On the round after an increase, work each new stitch as k or p so 1×1 rib continues in the body and sleeve panels. The knit columns are the steep visual lines.

Increase substitutes. M1L / M1R are written. A yo on the increase round, then working that yo purl through the back loop on the next round, is an equally good easy option and closes the hole.

Two-phase yoke (steep shoulders + room at the bust).

• Upper yoke: increase every other round — lines stay steep and close to the neck (narrower-looking shoulders).
• Lower yoke: increase every round — extra circumference lands at the bust, not on the shoulder. This is the curvy-body shaping.

Front is wider than back by a few stitches so the rib has more fabric over the bust.

Bulky sleeves. Upper-sleeve circumference is generous. You will work even for several inches after the divide before decreasing, then taper to a snug ribbed cuff.

Try it on. After the lower yoke, slip stitches onto a long cable or waste yarn and try the yoke on. The underarm should sit at your underarm with the back neck flat. You may work a few extra even rounds (no increases) if you want a slightly deeper armhole; do not add extra increase rounds or the bust and sleeves will grow.

German short rows. To make a DS: turn the work, slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front, then pull the yarn over the right needle to the back so two legs sit on the needle. On the following pass, work both legs together as 1 stitch in pattern.

Cast-on and bind-off. Use a stretchy cast-on (Long-Tail is fine). Bind off in 1×1 rib loosely, or use a stretchy bind-off. A tight neck or cuff bind-off will not go over the head or hand.

Pattern

Neckband (full-circumference method)

With the 16" (40 cm) circular, CO 122 (140, 148, 158, 168) sts. Place unique BOR marker and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist.

Work 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; repeat from * to BOR) until the neckband measures 1¼" (3 cm) — about 10 rounds.

(122, 140, 148, 158, 168 sts. Medium neck at gauge: 140 sts ÷ 29 × 4" = 19.3", 140 ÷ 2.9 = 48.3 cm ✓)

Raglan setup

Change to the longer circular when the stitches feel crowded.

Setup round: Work in 1×1 rib and place the remaining 3 markers as follows, knitting the 2 raglan stitches at each line:

• k1, pm, k1 (left-back raglan; BOR already marks the first of these), 1×1 rib over 40 (46, 48, 52, 54) back sts,
• k1, pm, k1 (right-back raglan), 1×1 rib over 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) right-sleeve sts,
• k1, pm, k1 (right-front raglan), 1×1 rib over 42 (50, 52, 54, 58) front sts,
• k1, pm, k1 (left-front raglan), 1×1 rib over 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) left-sleeve sts.

(Raglan 8 + back 40 (46, 48, 52, 54) + front 42 (50, 52, 54, 58) + sleeves 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) × 2 = 122 (140, 148, 158, 168) ✓)

The 2 knit stitches at each marker are the raglan lines; keep them as knit every round from here on.

Back-neck short rows (German short rows)

These extra rows lift the back of the neck so the collar does not stand away from the body. Work in established rib, including the knit raglan stitches. No raglan increases yet.

Short-row 1 (RS): Starting at BOR, work in pattern across the back and the right-back raglan, then work 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts into the right sleeve. Turn. Make DS.

Short-row 2 (WS): Work in pattern across the back to BOR, then work 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts into the left sleeve. Turn. Make DS.

Short-row 3: Work in pattern to the DS, work the DS as 1 stitch in pattern, work 4 more sts, turn. Make DS.

Short-row 4: Same as Short-row 3.

Repeat Short-rows 3 and 4 four more times — 6 short-row pairs total.

(6 pairs = 12 extra rows at center back ≈ 1½" / 4 cm raise ✓. Turns step 4 sts further each pair and will move through the sleeve into a few front stitches on smaller sizes; that softens the neckline and is correct.)

Rejoin round: With RS facing, work in pattern all the way around, working every DS as 1 stitch in pattern. Resume working in the round. Stitch count is unchanged: 122 (140, 148, 158, 168) sts.

Yoke

Increase round: *Work 1×1 rib to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, slm, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 more times. (+8 sts — 2 at each raglan line)

On the following round, work 1×1 rib as established: knit the 2 raglan stitches; work each new M1 as k or p so the body and sleeve panels stay in 1×1 rib.

Upper yoke (steep raglan)

Work (Increase round, then 1 even round in established rib) 14 (15, 13, 13, 12) times.

Stitches after upper yoke: 234 (260, 252, 262, 264)
(CO + 8 × 14 (15, 13, 13, 12) = 122+112=234 (140+120=260, 148+104=252, 158+104=262, 168+96=264) ✓)

Lower yoke (bust room, still on the raglan lines)

Work Increase round every round 32 (34, 42, 47, 53) times, working new stitches into 1×1 rib as you go.

Stitches after lower yoke: 490 (532, 588, 638, 688)
(234+8×32=234+256=490; 260+8×34=260+272=532; 252+8×42=252+336=588; 262+8×47=262+376=638; 264+8×53=264+424=688 ✓)
Total increase rounds 14+32=46 (15+34=49, 13+42=55, 13+47=60, 12+53=65) ✓

Yoke from cast-on should measure about 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm at the front. The back is about 1½" (4 cm) longer because of the short rows. Try on. If you need a slightly deeper armhole, work even in rib (no increases) to the desired depth.

Divide body and sleeves

Work in established rib, placing sleeve stitches on waste yarn and casting on underarm stitches as follows:

• Work left-back raglan k1, slm, k1, then the back sts, then right-back raglan k1, slm, k1. Back on the needle, including 1 raglan st from each back line: 134 (146, 160, 174, 186) sts.
  (40+2×46+2=134; 46+2×49+2=146; 48+2×55+2=160; 52+2×60+2=174; 54+2×65+2=186 ✓)

• Place the right sleeve (the stitches up to the next raglan pair, plus 1 raglan st from each side of that pair) on waste yarn: 110 (118, 132, 144, 156) sleeve sts on hold.
  (16+2×46+2=110; 18+2×49+2=118; 20+2×55+2=132; 22+2×60+2=144; 24+2×65+2=156 ✓)

• Using the backward-loop (or knitted) method, CO 12 sts for the right underarm. pm for the new side if you like.

• Work the front (1 raglan st, front panel, 1 raglan st): 136 (150, 164, 176, 190) sts.
  (42+2×46+2=136; 50+2×49+2=150; 52+2×55+2=164; 54+2×60+2=176; 58+2×65+2=190 ✓)

• Place the left sleeve on waste yarn the same way: 110 (118, 132, 144, 156) sts.

• CO 12 sts for the left underarm.

Join to work the body in the round. The unique BOR now sits at the left underarm (center of the 12 CO sts is a convenient BOR).

Body stitches: 294 (320, 348, 374, 400)
(Back 134 (146, 160, 174, 186) + front 136 (150, 164, 176, 190) + 12 + 12 = 294 (320, 348, 374, 400) ✓)
(294 ÷ 2.9 = 101.4 cm; 320 ÷ 2.9 = 110.3 cm; 348 ÷ 2.9 = 120.0 cm; 374 ÷ 2.9 = 129.0 cm; 400 ÷ 2.9 = 137.9 cm ✓)

Work the first body round in 1×1 rib, working the 12 underarm stitches into rib (k1, p1). If two knits or two purls meet at a corner, that’s fine — it sits in the underarm.

Body

Work even in 1×1 rib until the body measures 14 (14½, 15, 15½, 16)" / 35.5 (37, 38, 39.5, 40.5) cm from the underarm cast-on, or until the length you want. The cut is straight — no waist decreases. Rib will follow the waist and hip on its own.

Bind off loosely in 1×1 rib.

Sleeves

Place the 110 (118, 132, 144, 156) held sleeve stitches on DPNs or a magic-loop needle. Starting at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 12 sts along the underarm cast-on, then work the sleeve stitches in established 1×1 rib (knit the 2 stitches that continue the raglan line at the top of the sleeve). Pick up 1 extra stitch in each underarm corner if a hole appears, then decrease those extras away on the next round (k2tog at each corner).

Upper-sleeve stitches: 122 (130, 144, 156, 168)
(110+12=122; 118+12=130; 132+12=144; 144+12=156; 156+12=168 ✓)
(122 ÷ 2.9 = 42.1 cm; 130 ÷ 2.9 = 44.8 cm; 144 ÷ 2.9 = 49.7 cm; 156 ÷ 2.9 = 53.8 cm; 168 ÷ 2.9 = 57.9 cm ✓)

Place BOR at the center of the underarm. On the first full round, work 1×1 rib around, keeping a 2-stitch knit column at BOR if you like — it mirrors the raglan lines along the inner arm.

Keep the sleeve bulky at the top. Work even in 1×1 rib for 3 (3, 3½, 3½, 4)" / 7.5 (7.5, 9, 9, 10) cm.

Shape the sleeve. Decrease round: k1, ssk, work 1×1 rib to 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1. (−2 sts)

Work a Decrease round every 3rd (3rd, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd) round 34 (36, 41, 45, 49) times. 54 (58, 62, 66, 70) sts remain.
(122−2×34=122−68=54; 130−2×36=130−72=58; 144−2×41=144−82=62; 156−2×45=156−90=66; 168−2×49=168−98=70 ✓)

Work even in 1×1 rib until the sleeve measures 15½ (16, 16½, 17, 17)" / 39.5 (40.5, 42, 43, 43) cm from the underarm, or 2" (5 cm) short of your desired total sleeve length. Work new stitches into rib after each decrease; the inner-arm knit column stays knit.

Cuff: Continue 1×1 rib for 2" (5 cm). Bind off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Finishing

Weave in ends, closing any small underarm gaps with the tail.

Block lightly. Soak, press out water in a towel, and lay flat to the finished measurements above. Do not stretch the rib to its limit or the sweater will grow and lose recovery. Let it dry fully.

The neck opening on Medium is 19" (48.5 cm) at gauge and will stretch over the head; if your bind-off feels tight, take it out and bind off more loosely.

Schematic (measurements)

                    neck 16¾ (19, 20¼, 21¾, 23)"
                    / 42.5 (48.5, 51.5, 55, 58.5) cm
                          ________
                         /        \
                        /  steep   \
                       /  raglan    \
                      /              \
         sleeve      /     yoke       \     sleeve
         16¾ (18,   |  front depth     |    (same)
         19¾, 21½,  |  8½ (9, 9½,     |
         23)"       |  10, 10½)"      |
                    |                  |
                    |  bust / hip      |
                    |  40 (43½, 47¼,   |
                    |  50¾, 54¼)"      |
                    |                  |
                    |  body 14 (14½,   |
                    |  15, 15½, 16)"   |
                    |                  |
                     \________________/

• Upper sleeve, underarm: 16¾ (18, 19¾, 21½, 23)" / 42.5 (45.5, 50.5, 54.5, 58.5) cm
• Cuff: 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 19 (20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm
• Sleeve length: 17½ (18, 18½, 19, 19)" / 44.5 (45.5, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm
• Back is ~1½" (4 cm) longer than the front at the neck only

Fit checklist (especially for Medium / 97 cm bust)

• Neck sits at 19" (48.5 cm) and lies flat at the back of the neck after the short rows.
• Bust stitch count is 320 sts = 43½" (110.5 cm) at gauge, ~5" (13 cm) ease over 38¼" (97 cm).
• Raglan lines read as steep knit columns, closer to the neck than a flat saddle.
• Sleeves are full at the upper arm, then taper to a ribbed cuff.
• Body is a straight tube; 1×1 rib does the waist shaping.