Scully Cap

Folded-brim watch cap in DK wool — straight needles

A close-fitting 1990s-style knitted cap: deep 2×2 rib brim that folds, stocking-stitch crown, and an eight-point decrease. Worked flat on straight needles and seamed up the centre back. Intermediate.

Sizes: Baby (Child, Adult S/M, Adult L)
To fit head circumference: 42 (50, 56, 60) cm / 16½ (19¾, 22, 23½) in
Finished hat circumference (unstretched): 38 (45.5, 51, 56.5) cm / 15 (18, 20, 22¼) in
Finished depth (brim folded): 14 (17, 20, 21.5) cm / 5½ (6¾, 8, 8½) in

Negative ease about 4 cm. Choose the size nearest the wearer’s head, not larger.

Materials

Yarn: DK (8-ply / light worsted) wool or wool blend, approx. 80 (110, 140, 165) m / 87 (120, 153, 180) yd. Solid dark colour is traditional.

Needles:

• 3.75 mm (UK 9 / US 5) straight needles for the brim
• 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) straight needles for the crown
• Tapestry needle for seaming and gathering the crown

Notions: Stitch markers (optional, for decrease sections), scissors.

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after light blocking.

Work a swatch, wash, and measure. If you have more than 22 sts to 10 cm, use a larger needle; if fewer, use a smaller needle. Crown depth and circumference both depend on this tension.

The brim is worked on 3.75 mm for a firmer, neater fold.

Abbreviations (UK knitting)

k knit · p purl · st(s) stitch(es) · RS right side · WS wrong side
k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) · ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st st stocking stitch (RS knit, WS purl)
rep repeat · rem remaining

Notes

• The entire hat is one flat panel. The first and last stitch of every row are selvedge stitches for the back seam; work them in stocking stitch throughout (knit on RS, purl on WS) even through the rib.
• 2×2 rib on the brim: with selvedges, the pattern is k1, (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k2, k1.
• Do not convert this pattern to the round; it is drafted for straight needles as requested.
• Intermediate skills: maintaining rib with selvedges, even decrease spacing, mattress stitch.

Pattern

Brim (folded)

With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 84 (100, 112, 124) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): K1 (selvedge), (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k2, k1 (selvedge).
Rib row 2 (WS): P1 (selvedge), (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, p1 (selvedge).

These 2 rows form 2×2 rib with stocking-stitch selvedges.
Repeat until brim measures 10 cm / 4 in from cast-on, ending after a WS row.
(This folds in half to a 5 cm / 2 in brim.)

Stitch count remains 84 (100, 112, 124).

Change to 4 mm needles.

Crown (body)

Work in stocking stitch:

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 11 (13.5, 16, 17) cm / 4¼ (5¼, 6¼, 6¾) in from the fold line (i.e. from the midpoint of the rib), or 16 (18.5, 21, 22) cm / 6¼ (7¼, 8¼, 8¾) in from the cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Stitch count remains 84 (100, 112, 124).

Crown decreases

Worked in 8 sections. Markers (optional): on the first decrease row, place a marker after each decrease pair to help you stay even.

Set-up note: 84 = 2 selvedges + 8 × 10 + 2 extra distributed; 100 = 2 + 8 × 12 + 2; 112 = 2 + 8 × 13 + 6; 124 = 2 + 8 × 15 + 2. Decreases are written so each size ends cleanly.

Dec row 1 (RS): K1, [k8 (10, 12, 13), k2tog] 8 times, knit rem 3 (3, 1, 3) sts.
84: 1 + 8×9 + 3 wait — verify by size:

Work as follows (counts after this row):

Baby (84 sts): K1, *k8, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
(8 decreases → 84 − 8 = 76 sts ✓)

Child (100 sts): K1, *k10, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
(8 decreases → 100 − 8 = 92 sts ✓)

Adult S/M (112 sts): K1, *k12, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
(8 decreases → 112 − 8 = 104 sts ✓)

Adult L (124 sts): K1, *k13, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
(8 decreases → 124 − 8 = 116 sts ✓)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Dec row 2 (RS): K1, *k7 (9, 11, 12), k2tog; rep from * to last 3 (3, 1, 3) sts, knit those sts.
(8 decreases → 68 (84, 96, 108) sts ✓)

Next row: Purl.

Continue in this manner: on every RS row work 8 evenly spaced k2tog (one fewer knit stitch between decreases each RS row), WS rows purl, until you have worked the round that leaves:

28 (28, 32, 36) sts after a RS decrease row.

Then work every row as a decrease row (still 8 decreases, purling WS rows as p2tog spaced to match, or work WS as purl without decreases if you prefer a slightly taller point — default is RS-only until 16–20 sts remain).

Final RS rows: Continue k2tog every RS until 12 (12, 16, 16) sts remain.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Break yarn, leaving a 40 cm / 16 in tail. Thread tail through remaining stitches, pull tight to close the crown, and fasten off on the WS. Do not weave this tail yet — use it to start the back seam if convenient.

Finishing

1. Seam: With RS facing you, mattress-stitch the centre-back seam from crown to cast-on, matching rib columns. The selvedge stitches disappear into the seam. For the folded brim, seam the inner (cast-on) half of the rib on the WS so the fold sits cleanly, or seam the full length on the RS and fold afterwards — either is acceptable; keep the fold edge even.

2. Fold the brim up 5 cm / 2 in and steam lightly so it holds. Optionally catch the fold to the inside with a few invisible stitches at the back seam only.

3. Block: Light steam-block over a bowl or balloon the size of the wearer’s head so the crown is slightly rounded, not pointed. Do not stretch the rib.

4. Weave in ends. No pompom (Scully style is plain).

Schematic (approx.)

        gathered crown
             /\
            /  \     8-point decreases
           |    |
           |    |    stocking stitch
           |    |    11 (13.5, 16, 17) cm above fold
        ---      ---
       |  folded   |  5 cm folded rib (10 cm worked)
        -----------
         38 (45.5, 51, 56.5) cm circ.

Tips

• If the brim flares, go down to 3.5 mm for the rib only.
• For a slouchier Scully, add 2 cm of stocking stitch before decreases (Adult sizes only).
• Fibre: wool holds the fold; superwash will be softer and may need a firmer needle for the brim.