purlJam

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# SEAMLESS MEN'S BRIEF WITH LARGE POUCH
### A Top-Down Seamless Knitting Pattern

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## AT A GLANCE

| Detail | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Size** | 32-inch waist (fits 30–34 in with ribbing stretch) |
| **Yarn Weight** | DK |
| **Construction** | Seamless, top-down, in the round |
| **Difficulty** | Beginner |
| **Stitch Pattern** | 2×2 Ribbing (waistband & leg bands), Stockinette in the round (body) |

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** DK weight, approximately **300–350 yards (275–320 m)**
  - *Recommended fiber:* A blend containing nylon or bamboo for durability and stretch (e.g., a cotton/nylon or merino/bamboo blend). 100% wool is not recommended for underwear.
  - *Sample yarn:* Any DK weight yarn with good elasticity and washability.
- **Needles:** US 6 / 4 mm circular needle, 32-inch (80 cm) or longer cable, for magic loop **OR** a set of US 6 / 4 mm double-pointed needles (DPNs)
  - *Gauge adjustment needle:* US 4 / 3.5 mm circular needle for waistband (optional, see Gauge note)
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers (4)
  - Stitch holders or waste yarn (2)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Measuring tape
  - Optional: 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide elastic, 30-inch (76 cm) length, for folded waistband option

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## GAUGE

**22 stitches × 30 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm)** in Stockinette stitch in the round, on US 6 / 4 mm needles, after blocking.

> ⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL FOR UNDERWEAR.** A difference of even one stitch per inch will significantly change the fit. Please knit a gauge swatch in the round before starting. If you have too many stitches per 4 inches, go up a needle size. If you have too few stitches, go down a needle size.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (BLOCKED)

| Measurement | Inches | Centimeters |
|---|---|---|
| Waistband circumference (relaxed) | ~22 in | ~56 cm |
| Waistband circumference (stretched to fit) | ~30–34 in | ~76–86 cm |
| Hip circumference | ~35.5 in | ~90 cm |
| Rise (top of waistband to crotch) | ~11 in | ~28 cm |
| Front pouch depth (extra shaping) | ~2 in | ~5 cm |
| Leg opening circumference | ~18.75 in | ~47.6 cm |
| Leg band length | ~1 in | ~2.5 cm |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| BOR | beginning of round marker |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| M1L | Make 1 Left: lift the bar between sts from front to back, knit through the back loop |
| M1R | Make 1 Right: lift the bar between sts from back to front, knit through the front loop |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit both through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| W&T | Wrap and Turn (short row method — see Special Techniques below) |
| BO | bind off |
| CO | cast on |

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Stretchy Cast-On (Long-Tail Cast-On)
Use the standard long-tail cast-on. This method has natural elasticity suitable for a waistband.

### Stretchy Bind-Off (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off)
*For every knit stitch:* Yarn over, k1, pass the yarn over AND the previous stitch over the new stitch. *(2 sts bound off)*
*For every purl stitch:* Yarn over (bringing yarn to back first), p1, pass the yarn over AND the previous stitch over the new stitch. *(2 sts bound off)*
> **Beginner alternative:** A simple 3-needle bind-off is not applicable here; instead, simply use a regular bind-off worked on larger needles (go up 2 needle sizes) to keep the edge stretchy.

### Wrap and Turn (W&T) — Short Rows
Short rows are used in two places: seat shaping (back) and pouch shaping (front). They add extra fabric depth without adding stitches permanently.

**On a knit row (RS):**
1. Knit to the turning point specified in the pattern.
2. Slip the next stitch purlwise (with yarn in back) to the right needle.
3. Bring the yarn to the front between the needles.
4. Slip the stitch back to the left needle.
5. Turn your work (WS is now facing you). Yarn is now in front.
6. Purl or knit as directed.

**On a purl row (WS):**
1. Purl to the turning point.
2. Slip the next stitch purlwise (with yarn in front) to the right needle.
3. Bring the yarn to the back between the needles.
4. Slip the stitch back to the left needle.
5. Turn your work. Continue as directed.

**Picking up wraps:**
When you encounter a wrapped stitch on a subsequent round, pick up the wrap with the tip of the right needle and knit (or purl) it together with the wrapped stitch to hide it.

> 💡 **Beginner Tip:** Short rows sound intimidating but are simply "partial rows." You will knit partway across, turn around, and knit/purl back. The wrap prevents a hole at the turning point. Follow the stitch counts carefully and you'll be fine!

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. This pattern is worked entirely in the round, top-down. The right side (knit side of Stockinette) faces you at all times except during short row WS rows.
2. Four markers are used: **BOR** (beginning of round), **Side Left**, **Side Right**, and a fourth marker for **Pouch Center** (placed during pouch shaping).
3. The **front panel** is the 98 stitches between the Side Left and Side Right markers as established. The **back panel** is the remaining 98 stitches.
4. The large pouch is created by working additional short rows on the **front panel only**, adding approximately 2 inches of extra depth before the crotch division. This extra fabric forms the pouch shape.
5. Stitch counts are confirmed after each major section. Counts are shown as **(total sts)** in parentheses after relevant rounds.

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## PATTERN

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### SECTION 1: WAISTBAND

**Optional:** For a slightly tighter, neater waistband, use US 4 / 3.5 mm needles for this section, then switch to US 6 / 4 mm for the body.

Using the long-tail cast-on method and US 6 / 4 mm circular needle (or US 4 / 3.5 mm if using the tighter option), **cast on 128 stitches.**

> 📐 **Math check:** 128 sts ÷ 4 = 32 repeats of 2×2 rib. ✅

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place BOR marker.

**Waistband Round:** *[K2, p2]* repeat to end of round.

Repeat this round until waistband measures **1.5 inches (3.8 cm)** from the cast-on edge.

**CHOOSE YOUR WAISTBAND FINISH:**

#### Option A: Ribbed Waistband (Recommended for Beginners)
Continue in 2×2 rib until the waistband measures **2.5 inches (6.4 cm)** total. Proceed to Section 2 without binding off — the waistband is complete when you reach the leg bands. The waistband top edge is the cast-on edge; the knitting will roll outward slightly or lie flat, held in place by the rib stitch pattern. Elastic can be sewn to the inside of the waistband after finishing if desired.

#### Option B: Folded Hem with Elastic Casing
After working 1.5 inches of 2×2 rib, switch to Stockinette stitch (knit every round) for a further **1.5 inches (3.8 cm)**. You will fold this section to the inside after finishing to create a casing for elastic. Continue to Section 2. (After the garment is complete, fold the Stockinette section to the inside, pin, and whipstitch the cast-on edge to the inside of the garment, leaving a 1-inch gap to insert elastic. Thread elastic through, overlap ends by 1 inch (2.5 cm), sew securely, and close the gap.)

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### SECTION 2: HIP INCREASES

Switch to US 6 / 4 mm needles if not already using them.

You will now transition to Stockinette stitch (knit every round) and increase from 128 stitches to 196 stitches for the hip, placing increases at four points (two "side seams").

**Set-Up Round:** K32, pm (Side Left marker), k64, pm (Side Right marker), k32. **(128 sts)**

> 📐 The BOR marker sits between the side right marker and the beginning of the back panel. After the set-up, you have: 32 sts (back left) | 64 sts (front) | 32 sts (back right) — but we will think of this more simply in the increases below.

**Rearranging for increases:** The four increase points are located just before and just after each side marker (and just before BOR and just after BOR for the "back seam").

For simplicity, the increases are placed at TWO side points and at the BOR to mimic four-point shaping:

**Increase Round:**
- K to 1 st before Side Left marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L
- K to 1 st before Side Right marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L
- K to end of round.

*This adds 4 stitches per increase round.*

**Work the Increase Round every 3rd round, 17 times total.**

> 📐 **Math check:** 128 sts + (17 × 4 sts) = 128 + 68 = **196 sts** ✅

After 17 increase rounds: **(196 sts)**

> 📐 **Rounds used:** 17 increases × 3 rounds = 51 rounds ≈ 6.8 inches. Combined with 2.5-inch waistband = ~9.3 inches from cast-on top. This brings us close to the rise depth. Check your work against your body measurements.

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### SECTION 3: SEAT SHAPING (Short Rows — Back Panel)

The back panel now has **98 stitches** (from Side Right marker, around BOR, to Side Left marker).
The front panel has **98 stitches** (from Side Left marker to Side Right marker).

> 📐 **Math check:** 196 ÷ 2 = 98 sts per panel ✅

You will now work short rows on the **back panel only** to add approximately 1 inch of extra depth to the seat, preventing the briefs from riding down.

**Preparation:** Knit to the Side Right marker. The back panel begins here. Remove the Side Right marker temporarily (or simply note your position).

**Short Row 1 (RS — working across back):** K98 (all back sts), W&T.
**Short Row 2 (WS):** P82 (leaving 8 sts unworked on each end), W&T.
**Short Row 3 (RS):** K to 8 sts before previous wrap, W&T. *(K66)*
**Short Row 4 (WS):** P to 8 sts before previous wrap, W&T. *(P50)*
**Short Row 5 (RS):** K to 8 sts before previous wrap, W&T. *(K34)*
**Short Row 6 (WS):** P to 8 sts before previous wrap, W&T. *(P18)*

> 📐 **Short row stitch counts confirmed:** 98 → 82 → 66 → 50 → 34 → 18. Each step removes 16 sts (8 per side), for 3 steps = 48 sts from each end removed, leaving 18 center sts on the shortest row. The center 18 sts receive the most extra rows, creating the seat curve. ✅

**Resume in the round (picking up wraps):**
Knit across the back panel, picking up each wrap as you encounter it and knitting it together with its wrapped stitch. Continue knitting across the front panel to complete the round. Replace Side Right marker if removed. **(196 sts)**

**Work 2 rounds even in Stockinette** to settle the short rows. **(196 sts)**

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### SECTION 4: STRAIGHT BODY

Knit every round (Stockinette) until the total piece measures **9 inches (22.9 cm)** from the cast-on top edge of the waistband (measuring down the front of the work).

> 💡 Try the piece on as you go if possible — the rise measurement is personal. Standard men's brief rise is approximately 10–12 inches from waistband top to crotch. We stop at 9 inches here because the pouch shaping (Section 5) adds approximately 2 more inches of depth to the front.

At this point you should have: **(196 sts)**

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### SECTION 5: FRONT POUCH SHAPING (Short Rows — Front Panel)

This is the key feature of this pattern. You will add approximately 2 inches of extra fabric to the **front panel only**, creating the large pouch.

The front panel has **98 stitches**, between the Side Left and Side Right markers.

**Preparation:** Knit to the Side Left marker (this is the start of the front panel). Place a new **Pouch Center marker** after 49 stitches to mark the center of the front panel.

**Begin short rows — working on front panel only:**

**Short Row 1 (RS):** K49 (to Pouch Center marker), sm, k15, W&T.
**Short Row 2 (WS):** P to 15 sts past Pouch Center marker on the other side (p30 total, passing center), W&T.

> 💡 *You are working an ever-widening band of short rows around the center front.*

**Short Row 3 (RS):** K to 6 sts past previous wrap (on the right side), W&T.
**Short Row 4 (WS):** P to 6 sts past previous wrap (on the left side), W&T.
**Short Row 5 (RS):** K to 6 sts past previous wrap, W&T.
**Short Row 6 (WS):** P to 6 sts past previous wrap, W&T.
**Short Row 7 (RS):** K to 6 sts past previous wrap, W&T.
**Short Row 8 (WS):** P to 6 sts past previous wrap, W&T.

> 📐 **Pouch short row coverage:** Starting from center: 15 sts + (4 × 6 sts) = 15 + 24 = 39 sts worked outward from center on each side. The pouch shaping covers 78 of the 98 front sts at the widest point, leaving approximately 10 sts unworked at each outer edge of the front panel (these naturally blend into the side shaping). The 8 short rows at approximately 4 rows/inch add ~2 inches of depth to the front panel. ✅

**Resume in the round (picking up wraps):**
Knit across the remainder of the front panel, picking up all wraps as you encounter them and knitting them together with their wrapped stitches. Continue across the back panel to complete the round. Remove the Pouch Center marker. **(196 sts)**

**Work 2 rounds even in Stockinette.** **(196 sts)**

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### SECTION 6: CROTCH DIVISION

You will now split the stitches for the front and back crotch.

**Identify your panels:**
- **Front panel:** 98 sts (Side Left marker to Side Right marker)
- **Back panel:** 98 sts (Side Right marker, around BOR, to Side Left marker)

**Division Round:**
- Knit across the 98 front panel stitches.
- At the Side Right marker: using a backward-loop cast-on (also called the thumb cast-on), **cast on 6 stitches** for the crotch gusset.
- Place the 98 back panel stitches on a stitch holder or long piece of waste yarn. Do NOT cut the yarn.
- Cast on another 6 stitches using the backward-loop cast-on.
- You are now ready to work the first leg.

> 📐 **Math check — First leg stitches:** 98 (front) + 6 (first cast-on) + 6 (second cast-on) = **110 sts** for the first leg. ✅
> Note: The 6+6 cast-on sts form the inner crotch panel. This is intentionally small for a brief style; if you prefer more crotch width, cast on 8 sts at each point instead.

Join to work in the round, placing BOR marker. **(110 sts)**

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### SECTION 7: FIRST LEG

You are now working the first leg (front panel stitches + crotch cast-on stitches) in the round.

**Round 1:** Knit all sts. **(110 sts)**

**Work 5 rounds even in Stockinette.** **(110 sts)**

Because this is a brief (not a boxer), the leg is very short. We will work a small decrease to gently shape the leg opening to follow the thigh.

**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. **(108 sts)**

**Work 3 rounds even.** **(108 sts)**

**Decrease Round:** K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. **(106 sts)**

> 📐 **Total leg sts before leg band:** 106 sts. At 22 sts/4 in = 5.5 sts/in; 106 ÷ 5.5 = ~19.3 in circumference = ~19.25 in leg opening. ✅ This is comfortably fitted for an average thigh.

**Work 2 rounds even.** **(106 sts)**

**Leg Band:**
Work 8 rounds of 1×1 rib: *[K1, p1]* to end.

> 📐 **Note:** 106 sts is an even number, so 1×1 rib works out evenly. ✅

Bind off all stitches using the stretchy bind-off method (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off) or the beginner alternative (bind off on larger needles, 2 sizes up).

> 💡 Do not cut the yarn too short — leave a 6-inch tail for weaving in.

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### SECTION 8: SECOND LEG

Return the 98 held back panel stitches to your needle. Rejoin yarn at the right edge of the back panel, leaving a 6-inch tail.

**Pick-up Round:** Knit across the 98 back panel stitches. Pick up and knit **6 stitches** along one side of the crotch cast-on from Section 6. Pick up and knit **6 stitches** along the other side of the crotch cast-on. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round.

> 📐 **Math check — Second leg stitches:** 98 (back) + 6 (pick-up left) + 6 (pick-up right) = **110 sts** ✅

Work the second leg identically to the first leg (Sections 7):

- Round 1: Knit all sts.
- Work 5 rounds even.
- Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (108 sts)
- Work 3 rounds even.
- Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (106 sts)
- Work 2 rounds even.
- Work 8 rounds of 1×1 rib.
- Bind off with stretchy bind-off.

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### SECTION 9: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle. Weave tails in at least two directions (horizontally and diagonally) for security, especially at the crotch join where tension is highest.

2. **Close the crotch seam** (if there is a small gap between the two leg openings at the center crotch): Thread the cast-on tail onto a tapestry needle and use it to mattress stitch any small gap closed. Weave in securely.

3. **Blocking:** Wet the finished briefs in cool water with a small amount of gentle wool wash (or appropriate fiber wash for your yarn). Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring. Lay flat on a blocking mat and shape to the schematic measurements above. Allow to dry completely before wearing. Blocking will even out the stitches and activate the yarn's memory.

4. **If using Option B waistband:** Insert elastic per the instructions in Section 1, Option B.

5. **Care:** Follow the yarn manufacturer's washing instructions. Most cotton or bamboo blend DK yarns are machine washable on a gentle cool cycle.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
        ←— 22 in (relaxed) / 32 in (stretched) —→
        ┌─────────────────────────────────────────┐  ← Cast-on edge (waistband top)
        │         2×2 RIB WAISTBAND               │  } 2.5 in
        ├─────────────────────────────────────────┤
        │        HIP INCREASES                    │  } ~6.8 in
        │    (128 sts → 196 sts)                  │
        ├──────────────────────────────────────────┤
        │     SEAT SHORT ROWS (back only)          │  } ~0.5 in
        │     STRAIGHT BODY                        │  } continues to 9 in total rise
        ├─────────────┬──────────────────────────-─┤
        │ FRONT POUCH │       BACK PANEL           │  } +2 in pouch depth
        │ SHORT ROWS  │                            │
        ├─────────────┴───────────────────────────-┤  ← Crotch division (11 in total rise)
       /│\                                        /│\
      / │ \     FIRST LEG      SECOND LEG        / │ \
     /  │  \   (110 sts)       (110 sts)        /  │  \
    │   │   │   → 106 sts       → 106 sts      │   │   │
    │ LEG │ │   after decrease  after decrease  │ LEG │ │
    │BAND │ │   8 rnds 1×1 rib  8 rnds 1×1 rib │BAND │ │
    └─────┘ └───────────────────────────────────┘─────┘
       ↑                                              ↑
   ~1 in leg band                               ~1 in leg band
```

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## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Section | Event | Stitch Count |
|---|---|---|
| Waistband | Cast-on | **128 sts** |
| Hip increases | After 17 increase rounds | **196 sts** |
| Seat shaping | Short rows (no change to count) | **196 sts** |
| Straight body | Knit to 9 in total rise | **196 sts** |
| Pouch shaping | Short rows (no change to count) | **196 sts** |
| Crotch division | Divide + 6+6 CO | — |
| Leg 1, start | 98 front + 6 + 6 CO | **110 sts** |
| Leg 1, after 2 decreases | 2 × (−2 sts) | **106 sts** |
| Leg 1, bind-off | After 8 rnds rib | **106 sts** |
| Leg 2, start | 98 back + 6+6 pick-up | **110 sts** |
| Leg 2, after 2 decreases | 2 × (−2 sts) | **106 sts** |
| Leg 2, bind-off | After 8 rnds rib | **106 sts** |

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*Pattern designed for a 32-inch waist. For other sizes, adjust the cast-on count by multiples of 4 stitches to maintain the 2×2 rib repeat, and recalculate hip stitch count at 22 sts per 4 inches for your target hip circumference.*

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