purlJam

<pattern>

# SIMPLE GARTER KIMONO JACKET

A beginner-friendly T-shaped kimono jacket featuring a garter stitch body and stockinette sleeves. This minimal-seam design creates a relaxed, flowing silhouette with dropped shoulders and an open front.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 1,200-1,400 yards (1,100-1,280 m) worsted weight yarn
- Sample uses a smooth worsted weight wool or wool blend

**Machine Setup**:
- Standard gauge knitting machine (single bed)
- Tension dial: T5-6 for stockinette, T6-7 for garter stitch (adjust for your machine and yarn)
- 5.5mm needles equivalent on machine tension dial

**Tools Required**:
- Waste yarn for cast-on
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Transfer tool (for picking up stitches)
- Latch tool (for bind-off)
- Stitch holders or spare needles
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking mats and pins
- Steam iron or garment steamer

**Optional**:
- 1 decorative button or toggle for closure
- Fabric for tie closures (can be knit i-cord or purchased ribbon)

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## GAUGE

**Stockinette Stitch** (standard machine knitting):
- **18 stitches × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** at T5-6
- Measure after blocking

**Garter Stitch** (alternating knit and purl carriage passes):
- **18 stitches × 48 rows = 4" (10 cm)** at T6-7
- Note: Garter fabric pulls in vertically, requiring twice as many rows as stockinette

**To Create Gauge Swatch**:
1. Cast on 30 sts using waste yarn and ravel cord method
2. For stockinette: Set tension to T5-6, knit 50 rows, RC 000-050
3. For garter: Set tension to T6-7, knit 1 row COL to COR, purl 1 row COR to COL (or use slip setting to create garter), repeat for 100 rows total
4. Latch-tool bind off
5. Block and measure center 20 sts × 40 rows (or 80 rows for garter)

---

## SIZES

**One Size: Medium**
- **Finished Bust Circumference**: 48" (122 cm) [worn with 10" positive ease for 38" bust]
- **Body Length**: 24" (61 cm) from shoulder to hem
- **Sleeve Length**: 17" (43 cm) from shoulder seam
- **Sleeve Width**: 16" (41 cm) at cuff and shoulder (straight)
- **Cross-Back Shoulder Width**: 24" (61 cm)

**Fit Notes**: This kimono is designed to be worn open or with a single closure at mid-chest. The generous ease creates the characteristic flowing drape of a kimono silhouette.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

**Machine Knitting Terms**:
- **RC**: Row Counter
- **COL**: Carriage On Left
- **COR**: Carriage On Right
- **T**: Tension dial setting
- **MT**: Main Tension
- **WY**: Waste Yarn
- **MY**: Main Yarn
- **HP**: Holding Position (needle out of work)
- **WP**: Working Position (needle in work)
- **sts**: stitches
- **L**: Left
- **R**: Right

**General Terms**:
- **K**: Knit (carriage pass creating knit face)
- **P**: Purl (carriage pass creating purl face, or reverse side)
- **Garter st**: Alternating knit and purl rows (or slip setting method)
- **St st**: Stockinette stitch (standard machine knitting)

---

## NOTES

**Garter Stitch on Machine**:
This pattern uses garter stitch for the body. There are two methods:

**Method 1 - Manual (Recommended for Beginners)**:
- Knit one row with carriage, RC +1
- Manually turn work or flip carriage to purl return pass, RC +1
- This creates true garter stitch (all ridges on one side)

**Method 2 - Slip Setting**:
- Set carriage to slip in one direction
- Push alternate needles to holding position
- This creates a garter-like fabric (consult your machine manual)

**Method 3 - Tuck Setting** (creates a garter-look fabric):
- Use tuck setting on alternate rows
- Slightly different texture but easier for beginners

For this pattern, **Method 1** is specified for authentic garter stitch.

**Construction Notes**:
- All pieces are worked flat as rectangles
- Body pieces worked bottom-up in garter stitch
- Sleeves worked side-to-side in stockinette
- Minimal shaping = beginner-friendly
- Seams are straight and easy to mattress stitch or latch-tool seam

**Machine Setup**:
- Use waste yarn cast-on method for all pieces (allows for easy rehang if needed)
- Hang cast-on comb with weights; add weight every 20-30 rows
- For garter stitch, increase tension by 1-2 settings from stockinette (fabric pulls in)
- RC reset to 000 at start of each piece

**Measurements Reference**:
- Back: 24" wide × 24" long = 108 sts × 288 rows garter
- Each Front: 12" wide × 24" long = 54 sts × 288 rows garter
- Each Sleeve: 16" wide × 17" long = 72 sts × 102 rows stockinette

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## BACK BODY

**Machine Setup**:
- Single bed, flat knitting
- Cast on over needles in center of bed

**Cast On**:
1. Using WY, cast on 108 sts using waste yarn and ravel cord method
2. Knit 8-10 rows WY at T7, RC 000
3. Hang cast-on comb with weight (approximately 3-4 weights for worsted)
4. Change to MY, set tension to T6-7 (adjust for your garter stitch gauge)
5. RC 000, carriage at either side

**Garter Stitch Body**:
1. **COL**: Knit across to COR, RC 001
2. **COR**: Purl back to COL (manually reverse carriage or flip work), RC 002
3. Repeat steps 1-2 for garter stitch pattern
4. Continue until RC 288 (24" / 48 rows per 4" = 288 rows)
   - **Math check**: 288 rows ÷ 48 rows per 4" = 6 × 4" = 24" ✓
5. Add weights as needed every 25-30 rows to maintain even tension

**Bind Off**:
1. At RC 288, carriage at either side
2. Using latch tool, bind off all 108 sts loosely in pattern
3. Remove from machine
4. Mark center 24 sts (42 sts from each edge) for back neck
   - **Math check**: 108 sts total - 42 sts L - 42 sts R = 24 sts center ✓

**Final Back Measurements**:
- Width: 24" (108 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4" = 6 × 4" = 24") ✓
- Length: 24" (288 rows ÷ 48 rows per 4" = 6 × 4" = 24") ✓

---

## LEFT FRONT

**Machine Setup**:
- Single bed, flat knitting
- Cast on over needles in center of bed

**Cast On**:
1. Using WY, cast on 54 sts using waste yarn and ravel cord method
2. Knit 8-10 rows WY at T7, RC 000
3. Hang cast-on comb with weight (approximately 2 weights)
4. Change to MY, set tension to T6-7
5. RC 000, carriage at either side

**Garter Stitch Body**:
1. **COL**: Knit across to COR, RC 001
2. **COR**: Purl back to COL, RC 002
3. Continue in garter stitch (alternating K and P rows)
4. Work until RC 288 (24")
   - **Math check**: Same row count as back for matching length ✓
5. Add weights every 25-30 rows

**Bind Off**:
1. At RC 288, using latch tool, bind off all 54 sts loosely
2. Remove from machine
3. Mark center 12 sts at top edge for front neck shaping
   - From center front edge: 21 sts = shoulder, next 12 sts = neck, remaining 21 sts = shoulder
   - **Math check**: 21 + 12 + 21 = 54 sts ✓

**Final Left Front Measurements**:
- Width: 12" (54 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4" = 3 × 4" = 12") ✓
- Length: 24" ✓

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## RIGHT FRONT

Work exactly as for Left Front.

**Machine Setup**: Same as Left Front

**Cast On**: Cast on 54 sts as for Left Front

**Garter Stitch Body**: Work RC 000-288 in garter stitch, same as Left Front

**Bind Off**: Bind off at RC 288

**Neck Marking**: Mark center 12 sts at top edge (mirroring Left Front)

**Final Right Front Measurements**:
- Width: 12" (54 sts) ✓
- Length: 24" (288 rows) ✓

---

## SLEEVES (Make 2)

**Note**: Sleeves are worked side-to-side in stockinette stitch (standard machine knitting) from cuff edge to cuff edge across the width. The length of the sleeve determines the width when worn.

**Machine Setup**:
- Single bed, flat knitting
- Cast on over center needles

**Cast On**:
1. Using WY, cast on 72 sts using waste yarn and ravel cord method
   - **Math check**: 72 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4" = 4 × 4" = 16" sleeve width ✓
2. Knit 8-10 rows WY at T7, RC 000
3. Hang cast-on comb with 2-3 weights
4. Change to MY, set tension to T5-6 (stockinette tension, lighter than body)
5. RC 000, carriage at either side

**Stockinette Stitch Sleeve**:
1. Knit every row in stockinette (standard machine knitting)
2. COL to COR = 1 row, RC +1
3. COR to COL = 1 row, RC +1
4. Continue until RC 102 (17" sleeve length)
   - **Math check**: 102 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4" = 4.25 × 4" = 17" ✓
5. Add weights every 30-40 rows
6. All 72 sts remain in work throughout (no shaping = true kimono sleeve)

**Bind Off**:
1. At RC 102, carriage at either side
2. Using latch tool, bind off all 72 sts loosely
3. Remove from machine
4. Mark center point of bind-off edge (36 sts from each end) - this will align with shoulder seam

**Final Sleeve Measurements**:
- Width (worn): 16" (72 sts) ✓
- Length (worn): 17" (102 rows) ✓

**Repeat for Second Sleeve**.

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## FRONT BANDS

**Option 1: Picked-Up Bands (Recommended)**

**Machine Setup**:
- Use latch tool or transfer tool to pick up stitches along front edges
- Work bands on machine in garter or rib

**Left Front Band**:
1. With RS facing, using latch tool, pick up approximately 108 sts evenly along left front edge (3 sts per 4 rows × 72 rows garter = 108 sts)
   - **Math check**: 288 rows × 3 sts per 8 rows = 108 sts ✓
2. Rehang picked-up sts onto machine needles (108 needles in WP)
3. Set tension to T6-7, RC 000
4. Work in garter stitch (K1 row, P1 row) for 12 rows (1.5")
   - RC 000-012
5. Latch-tool bind off loosely at RC 012
6. Steam lightly to set edge

**Right Front Band**:
1. Pick up 108 sts along right front edge as for left
2. Rehang onto needles
3. If adding buttonhole: at RC 006 (center of band), at desired position (e.g., center of band at st 54), manually work buttonhole:
   - Bring 3 sts to HP (out of work)
   - Knit 2 rows (RC 006-008)
   - Return 3 sts to WP, cast on 3 new sts over gap using e-wrap or latch tool
   - Continue to RC 012
4. If no buttonhole: work straight as for left band, RC 000-012
5. Latch-tool