purlJam

<pattern>

# SIMPLE SEAMLESS RAGLAN PULLOVER

A classic top-down raglan sweater worked seamlessly in the round—perfect for your first raglan project! This beginner-friendly pattern features straightforward construction with no seaming required, allowing you to try on your sweater as you knit and adjust the length to your preference.

## SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large)

**Finished Bust Circumference:** 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
*Designed to be worn with 4" / 10 cm positive ease*

**Sample shown:** Size Medium

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight yarn
- **Yardage:** 950 (1100, 1250, 1450, 1650) yards / 870 (1005, 1145, 1325, 1510) meters
- Sample shown in Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards / 100g)

**Needles:**
- US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16" and 32" circular needles (or size needed for gauge)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm, double-pointed needles or preferred method for small circumferences
- US 6 / 4.0 mm, 16" circular needle for ribbing

**Notions:**
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for beginning of round)
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
- Tapestry needle

## GAUGE
18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch in the round on larger needles, blocked

**To check gauge:** Cast on 24 sts, join to work in the round, and knit every round for 5". Block and measure. Gauge is critical for proper fit.

## PATTERN NOTES

**Construction:** This pullover is worked seamlessly from the top down. You'll begin at the neckline, work raglan increases to shape the yoke, separate the sleeves from the body, then complete the body and sleeves separately.

**Raglan Increases:** Increases are worked every other round at four raglan lines, creating the diagonal lines characteristic of raglan construction. Each increase round adds 8 stitches total (2 at each raglan line).

**Techniques Used:**
- Knitting in the round
- M1L (Make 1 Left): Insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, knit through back loop
- M1R (Make 1 Right): Insert left needle from back to front under strand between stitches, knit through front loop
- K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)

**Fit Tip:** Try on your sweater as you work! The beauty of top-down construction is that you can easily adjust body and sleeve length to your preference.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- k: knit
- p: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS: right side
- PM: place marker
- SM: slip marker
- M1L: make 1 left (see Pattern Notes)
- M1R: make 1 right (see Pattern Notes)
- k2tog: knit 2 together

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### NECKBAND

With smaller 16" circular needle, cast on 72 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts using your preferred method. Place unique marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

**Ribbing Setup:**
Round 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 until ribbing measures 1" / 2.5 cm.

*Stitch count: 72 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts*

### YOKE

**Change to larger 16" circular needle.**

#### Setup Round (Marker Placement):
This round establishes the raglan lines by placing markers to divide stitches between back, sleeves, and front.

K11 (12, 13, 13, 14) [left front], PM, k12 (12, 12, 14, 14) [left sleeve], PM, k26 (28, 30, 30, 32) [back], PM, k12 (12, 12, 14, 14) [right sleeve], PM, k11 (12, 13, 13, 14) [right front].

*Stitch count check: 11+12+26+12+11 = 72 sts for Size S ✓*
*Stitch count check: 12+12+28+12+12 = 76 sts for Size M ✓*
*Stitch count check: 13+12+30+12+13 = 80 sts for Size L ✓*
*Stitch count check: 13+14+30+14+13 = 84 sts for Size XL ✓*
*Stitch count check: 14+14+32+14+14 = 88 sts for Size 2XL ✓*

#### Raglan Increases:

**Increase Round:** *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end of round.

*This adds 8 stitches total: 2 sts at each of the 4 raglan lines*

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these 2 rounds **31 (35, 39, 42, 46) more times**.

**Total raglan increase rounds worked:** 32 (36, 40, 43, 47) times
**Total stitches added:** 32 × 8 = 256 (288, 320, 344, 376) sts

*Final yoke stitch count: 72+256 = 328 (76+288 = 364, 80+320 = 400, 84+344 = 428, 88+376 = 464) sts*

**Yoke depth check:** 32 rounds ÷ 24 rounds per 4" × 4" = 5.33" (36 rounds = 6", 40 rounds = 6.67", 43 rounds = 7.17", 47 rounds = 7.83")

**Switch to longer circular needle** when stitches become crowded on 16" needle (typically after 10-15 increase rounds).

After completing all raglan increases, knit 1 plain round.

### DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES

**Next Round (Separation Round):**
This round separates the sleeves from the body and adds underarm stitches for ease.

Remove beginning-of-round marker.

K43 (48, 53, 56, 61) [left front], place next 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) sts on scrap yarn or holder for left sleeve, use backward loop method to cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm sts, PM for new beginning of round, cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) more underarm sts, k90 (100, 110, 116, 126) [back], place next 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) sts on holder for right sleeve, cast on 12 (12, 16, 16, 20) underarm sts, k43 (48, 53, 56, 61) [right front].

*Body stitch count calculation:*
- *Size S: 43+12+90+12+43 = 200 sts (cast on = 6+6 left + 12 right = 24 total underarm) Wait, let me recalculate...*
- *Size S: Front = 11+(32×2) = 75 sts total front, divided = 37.5, round to 43+32 (error - recalculating)*

Let me recalculate the separation with proper math:

After raglan increases:
- **Size S:** Front total = 11+11+(32×2) = 86 sts; Each sleeve = 12+(32×2) = 76 sts; Back = 26+(32×2) = 90 sts
  - Check: 86+76+90+76 = 328 sts ✓
- **Size M:** Front = 12+12+(36×2) = 96 sts; Sleeve = 12+(36×2) = 84 sts; Back = 28+(36×2) = 100 sts
  - Check: 96+84+100+84 = 364 sts ✓
- **Size L:** Front = 13+13+(40×2) = 106 sts; Sleeve = 12+(40×2) = 92 sts; Back = 30+(40×2) = 110 sts
  - Check: 106+92+110+92 = 400 sts ✓
- **Size XL:** Front = 13+13+(43×2) = 112 sts; Sleeve = 14+(43×2) = 100 sts; Back = 30+(43×2) = 116 sts
  - Check: 112+100+116+100 = 428 sts ✓
- **Size 2XL:** Front = 14+14+(47×2) = 122 sts; Sleeve = 14+(47×2) = 108 sts; Back = 32+(47×2) = 126 sts
  - Check: 122+108+126+108 = 464 sts ✓

**Corrected Separation Round:**

Remove beginning-of-round marker.

K43 (48, 53, 56, 61) [left front], place next 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) sts on holder for left sleeve, cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) sts, PM for new beginning of round, cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) more sts [total 12 (12, 16, 16, 20) underarm sts], k90 (100, 110, 116, 126) [back], place next 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) sts on holder for right sleeve, cast on 12 (12, 16, 16, 20) underarm sts, k43 (48, 53, 56, 61) [right front].

*Body stitch count: 43+12+90+12+43 = 200 (48+12+100+12+48 = 220, 53+16+110+16+53 = 248, 56+16+116+16+56 = 260, 61+20+126+20+61 = 288) sts*

*Body circumference: 200÷18×4 = 44.4" (220÷18×4 = 48.9", 248÷18×4 = 55.1", 260÷18×4 = 57.8", 288÷18×4 = 64") - Wait, these are too large!*

Let me recalculate - I need the body to measure 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)":
- Size S: 36" × 18 sts ÷ 4" = 162 sts needed
- Size M: 40" × 18 sts ÷ 4" = 180 sts needed
- Size L: 44" × 18 sts ÷ 4" = 198 sts needed
- Size XL: 48" × 18 sts ÷ 4" = 216 sts needed
- Size 2XL: 52" × 18 sts ÷ 4" = 234 sts needed

The body has Front (86, 96, 106, 112, 122) + Back (90, 100, 110, 116, 126) = 176 (196, 216, 228, 248) sts before underarm
Adding underarm: 176+12 = 188 (196+12 = 208, 216+16 = 232, 228+16 = 244, 248+20 = 268)

This is still a bit off. Let me recalculate the starting cast-on to hit the right targets:

Starting fresh with proper backward calculation:

**Revised calculation for proper sizing:**

Target body circumference after separation: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)"
Target sts: 162 (180, 198, 216, 234) sts

With underarm sts of 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) total, body sts from yoke = 152 (170, 186, 204, 220)
Front + Back = 152 (170, 186, 204, 220)
Approximately 50% each: Front = 76 (85, 93, 102, 110), Back = 76 (85, 93, 102, 110)

After raglan increases, each section grows by (increase rounds × 2):
If we work 30 (33, 37, 40, 44) increase rounds:
- Increases add: 60 (66, 74, 80, 88) sts to front, 60 (66, 74, 80, 88) to back, 60 (66, 74, 80, 88) to each sleeve

Starting sts needed:
- Front: 76-60 = 16 (85-66 = 19, 93-74 = 19, 102-80 = 22, 110-88 =