purlJam

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# SMALL TEDDY BEAR
### Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

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## AT A GLANCE

| Detail | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Difficulty** | Beginner |
| **Finished Size** | Approx. 5–6 inches (12–15 cm) tall |
| **Yarn Weight** | Worsted Weight (4) |
| **Hook Size** | US E-4 (3.5 mm) |
| **Techniques** | Magic ring, single crochet, increase, decrease, working in the round |

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn (Main Color / MC):** Worsted weight yarn in your bear color of choice (tan, brown, cream, gray, etc.) — approximately 80–100 yards (73–91 m)
- **Yarn (Contrast Color / CC):** A small amount of cream or light tan for the muzzle — approximately 5–8 yards (4.5–7.5 m)
- **Hook:** US E-4 (3.5 mm)
- **Safety eyes:** One pair, 9 mm (recommended) or 12 mm
- **Polyester fiberfill stuffing**
- **Yarn needle** (blunt-tip, for assembly and finishing)
- **Stitch marker**
- **Straight pins** (for piece placement before sewing)
- **Optional:** Black embroidery floss and needle for nose and mouth

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## GAUGE

**4 sc × 4 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm)**, worked tightly in the round.

> **Note:** Gauge is important for amigurumi to ensure no gaps appear in the fabric. If your stitches look loose or you can see the stuffing through the fabric, go down a hook size.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **sc** | Single crochet |
| **inc** | Increase — 2 sc in the same stitch |
| **dec** | Invisible decrease — insert hook through front loops only of next 2 sts, draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops |
| **sl st** | Slip stitch |
| **ch** | Chain |
| **rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **MR** | Magic ring |
| **BLO** | Back loop only |
| **[ ]** | Stitch count at end of round |
| **( ) around** | Repeat the sequence in parentheses around the entire round |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. All pieces are worked **in continuous rounds** (no joining, no turning). Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.
2. Use the **invisible decrease (dec)** throughout. This creates a much smoother, more professional finish than a standard decrease and is easy once you try it a couple of times.
3. **Stuff as you go.** It is much easier to add stuffing gradually as you work than to try to force it in at the end through a tiny opening.
4. **⚠️ IMPORTANT — Safety Eyes:** Safety eyes must be inserted and secured **before** you close the head in the final rounds. Once the opening is too small, you cannot attach them safely. See the Head instructions for the exact step.
5. This pattern uses **US crochet terminology** throughout.
6. The bear is assembled by sewing all finished pieces onto the body with a yarn needle. **Pin all pieces in place** before sewing to check positioning and symmetry.

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## PATTERN

### PIECE 1: HEAD
*Make 1 in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]

**Rnds 5–8:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(4 rounds even)*

> **⚠️ Stop here to attach safety eyes.** Position eyes between Rnds 6 and 7, approximately 5–6 stitches apart (measuring the gap across the front center of the face). Snap the washers firmly onto the posts on the inside. Once eyes are secured, continue.

**Rnd 9:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 10:** (Sc, dec) around. [12]

> **Stuff the head now.** Fill it firmly and evenly — it should feel solid but not stretched. Add a little extra stuffing if needed before closing.

**Rnd 11:** Dec around. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle and weave through the front loop of each remaining 6 sts, pull tight to close the hole. Weave in end securely.

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### PIECE 2: BODY
*Make 1 in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnd 3:** (Sc, inc) around. [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around. [24]

**Rnds 5–9:** Sc in each st around. [24] *(5 rounds even)*

**Rnd 10:** (2 sc, dec) around. [18]

**Rnd 11:** (Sc, dec) around. [12]

> **Stuff the body now.** The body should be stuffed very firmly — it is the base all other parts attach to.

**Rnd 12:** Dec around. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long 12-inch (30 cm) tail for attaching the head. Close the hole as for the head. Do not weave in this tail yet — you will use it to sew the head on.

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### PIECE 3: ARMS
*Make 2 in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnds 3–10:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(8 rounds even)*

> **Stuff lightly.** Arms should be soft and slightly floppy, not rigid.

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail for sewing. Flatten the open end slightly — no need to close it formally, it will be sewn flat against the body.

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### PIECE 4: LEGS
*Make 2 in MC.*

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnds 3–8:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(6 rounds even)*

> **Stuff lightly**, the same as the arms.

Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Flatten the open end as for the arms.

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### PIECE 5: EARS
*Make 2 in MC.*

The ears are small flat circles that you fold in half before attaching.

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. **Do not stuff.** Fold the circle in half so you have a small half-moon shape. Use the tail to whip stitch the two halves together along the straight folded edge — this creates a neat, slightly cupped ear. Leave the tail attached for sewing onto the head.

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### PIECE 6: MUZZLE
*Make 1 in CC (cream or contrasting color).*

The muzzle is a small, lightly stuffed sphere that sits at the center front of the face.

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in MR. [6]

**Rnd 2:** Inc in each st around. [12]

**Rnds 3–4:** Sc in each st around. [12] *(2 rounds even)*

**Rnd 5:** Dec around. [6]

> **Add a small pinch of stuffing** before closing — just enough to give the muzzle a gentle rounded shape. Do not overstuff.

Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. Close hole as before.

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## ASSEMBLY

> **Pro Tip:** Use straight pins to position every piece on the bear **before** you sew anything permanently. Step back and look at your bear from a little distance to check symmetry. Adjust until you are happy, then sew.

### Step 1 — Attach Head to Body

Hold the head on top of the body, aligning the closed bottom of the head with the closed top of the body. The face should face forward. Using the long tail left on the body's closing, and adding the head's closing tail if needed, sew the head to the body using a whip stitch, working all the way around the seam. Pull stitches firmly so the head sits securely. Weave in all ends.

### Step 2 — Attach Muzzle

Position the muzzle on the center front of the face, sitting just below the safety eyes and slightly below the center point of the face (approximately centered between Rnds 5 and 8 of the head). Pin in place. Using the muzzle tail and yarn needle, sew the muzzle to the face using small whip stitches all the way around the edge. Weave in end.

### Step 3 — Embroider the Nose and Mouth

Using black embroidery floss (or a small length of black yarn), embroider a small **triangle or oval nose** at the top center of the muzzle using 3–5 satin stitches worked close together. Then, from the base of the nose, embroider a simple **Y-shaped smile**: one stitch straight down, then two short stitches angled left and right from the bottom point, forming a curved mouth. Tie off and hide the knot inside the muzzle.

### Step 4 — Attach Ears

Position the two folded ears on top of the head, one on each side. Place them in Rnd 2–3 area of the head, angling them very slightly outward. The flat sewn edge of each ear should sit against the head. Pin both ears in place and step back to check symmetry before sewing. Sew each ear firmly to the head using the ear tail, stitching through multiple loops around the base. Weave in ends.

### Step 5 — Attach Arms

Position one arm on each side of the body, with the flat/open end flush against the upper body (approximately at Rnd 4–5 of the body, just below where the head attaches). The arms should angle very slightly downward and forward. Pin in place. Using the arm tail, sew each arm securely to the body. Weave in ends.

### Step 6 — Attach Legs

Position the two legs at the base of the body, one on each side of the front. The flat/open ends should face upward and rest against the lower body (approximately Rnds 10–11 of the body). The legs should face forward. Pin both legs and check they are even before sewing. Sew each leg firmly to the body. Weave in all remaining ends.

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## FINISHING

- Weave in **all remaining yarn ends** securely with a yarn needle. For a cleaner finish, weave each end through several stitches in different directions before trimming.
- Give your finished bear a gentle squeeze and reshape if needed. Fluff out the body if it has gone slightly flat during assembly.
- **Optional:** If you find any thin spots where stuffing is visible, you can duplicate stitch a small patch of yarn over the area using your yarn needle.

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## CUSTOMIZATION IDEAS

| Idea | How To |
|---|---|
| **Different colors** | Use any color for MC — gray, black, white, or even pink for a fun twist |
| **Bow or accessory** | Tie a small ribbon or crochet a tiny bow from contrasting yarn and sew to the neck or head |
| **Larger bear** | Add Rnd 5 `(3 sc, inc) around [30]` to both the head and body before the even rounds for a 7–8 inch (18–20 cm) bear |
| **Keychain** | Use DK weight yarn and a US B-1 (2.25 mm) hook to make a miniature version; attach a keychain finding through the top of the head |
| **No safety eyes** | Substitute with embroidered eyes using black yarn — safer for gifts to young children under 3 years old |

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## QUICK REFERENCE — PIECE SUMMARY

| Piece | Color | Starting Sts | Max Sts | Quantity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Head | MC | 6 | 24 | × 1 |
| Body | MC | 6 | 24 | × 1 |
| Arm | MC | 6 | 12 | × 2 |
| Leg | MC | 6 | 12 | × 2 |
| Ear | MC | 6 | 12 (flat, folded) | × 2 |
| Muzzle | CC | 6 | 12 | × 1 |

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Please credit if sharing. Not suitable as a toy for children under 3 years if safety eyes are used — substitute embroidered eyes for young children.*

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